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  1. Hi all With work on the house going on a pace , I have not had much time for modelling unfortunately. However whilst waiting for the electrician to attend I have had to stop until he has completed his work so I have had some rare modelling time, so I made the most of it. I have made a start and progressed this little beauty, as well as doing some of my 32 Spitfire build also. I bought this some time ago and it will hopefully sit well with the Sea Fury T20 and Airspeed Oxford T2 I have already built. It is a nice Kit, although being a short run Kit some preparations are needed along the way for fit in later stages. The Kit has a combination of Injection moulded plastic, some resin parts and some Photo etched parts. Box shot The resin cockpit parts really do look nice under a coat of paint A Test fit revealed work was needed o the wing to fuselage joint at the front end to get it to sit right and all the mating surfaces were flatted to ensure as good a joint as possible. Resin cockpit pieces assembled wand glued in place, fitting was checked regularly and all went in fairly well, although the resin seemed to be resistant to CA at first. I have got a bit of a gap along the top of the rear cockpit area but I did not have enough hands at the time !!! Undercarriage bays in place, I thinned off the top of the bays until I daren't take any more off and then took a small amount off the bottom of the front cockpit floor lug and they now go together well. That's it for now, I can't wait to get on with some ore now. Thanks for looking All the best Chris
  2. 1/72 - MiG-21 Fishbed family project was finally officially confirmed by Eduard http://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/InfoEduard/archive/2015/info-eduard-2015-01CZ.pdf (english version soon) MF, bis and SMT versions expected first
  3. In a rush of spontaneity my nearest & dearest decided to add to my stash by purchasing an Aoshima fire engine......to 1/72 scale which makes it just 5.5” long! Now this isn’t something I’d normally go for, especially at this small scale, but decided it was a challenge I’d be happy tackling so set about the build. In true Aoshima style the fit of parts and quality of moulding was pretty spot on so construction wasn’t an issue, but the painting was another story. I won’t go into details, but I had a few issues that really tested my patience! The model represents a fire ladder truck from Otsu in Japan and if required can be built with tilting (detailed) cab, rotating table, extending ladder and extending stabilisers. Due to the fragility of the ladder construction I elected to leave it retracted as it’s purely a static display model, but all other features are working. The only modifications I’ve made is to drill out the centre of the (grey) roof mounted megaphone and install a central cone (a solid grey blob didn’t quite look right), and the 4 door mirrors had their back shells built up with acrylic putty to simulate the shape of the full size. Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints were used with a Molotow chrome pen used for details like the front bumpers, mirror glass, hydraulic pistons and some cabin details. I simply decanted the chrome liquid and applied it with a fine brush. Luckily most fire engines are kept extremely clean so very little weathering was required. Anyhoo, please have a gander as it’s something a little different to the norm.
  4. Shamelessly plagiarising @stevej60 and @06/24 build threads here and here, I have decided to try and build an new tool Airfix 1/72 every week until my impending personal Brexit next year. After a serious illness back in 2016, I’ve found it difficult to focus and concentrate and am using it as some self-prescribed therapy to get myself back into a happier place (not that I’ve much to complain about these days). My last few builds gave me a sense of focus and that I haven’t had for nearly 18 months so as a trained psychologist, I think it’s a case of “physician, heal thy self”. And the stash gets reduced woohoo! Having the luxury of my 3 station workroom plus separate dedicated spraying room, its easy to have always Airfix 1/72 on the go. As my first ever model in 30 years was this lovely beastie from said Margate Company, it seems right and loyal to continue with them. It may also be of use for some of you that have them in the stash but haven’t touched them yet, judging from my experience with FW190, I’d lay in some serious quantities of superglue and a powerful grinder… So let’s see what I can make of the others. Here’s the pile to take me through the next few months . It’ll be handy to have it in one thread and I can see if my skills are improving, plus my OCD is satisfied Progress so far: 1/72 Bf 109E-4 WIP RFI 1/72 Hurricane 1 (in 4 days!) WIP RFI 1/72 FW190A WIP RFI 1/72 Tomahawk RFI 1/72 Red Arrows Gnat WIP RFI 1/72 Spitfire 22 WIP RFI 1/72 Spitfire PRXIX WIP RFI 1/72 Douglas A-4B Skyhawk WIP RFI 1/72 F-4F4 Wildcat WIP RFI _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ So first up the Tomahawk, a nice gift set, no stencils and ripe for some dirtying up First up the pit: "extensive research" (aka 5 minutes on google) yielded Curtiss green as the cockpit,colour, an unpainted aluminium seat and USAAF seat belts (courtesy of Eduard) The sticky up lever thing next to the control column (something to do with the the undercarriage?) was duly hacked off and replaced with rod & coloured PVA, much nicer. Although the outside is going to get a good dirtying up, the inside is not going to be weathered as A: the canopy is closed and B: I cant be bothered...New thing for me, using my iPhone 6 and Flickr, much easier than my various assorted DSLRs, superzooms, Photoshop and FTP programs. Quality is perfectly acceptable I think, for a WIP.
  5. Hi all - seeing that it seems to be the year of the Focke Wulf, here is my latest version - Tamiya's FW 190 D9 in 1/72. This is the second time I've done this kit since my return - basically the first attempt came out awful - I was still brush painting at that stage and my attempts at getting a mottled effect was a total fail. I really love this plane so I'm glad I was able to produce something a little more presentable at the second attempt. Still far from my lofty goals but a definite improvement. I've got the 1/48 version in the stash so it won't be long before I'm having yet another crack This version was built pretty much OOB - I replaced the wing gun barrels with needles and added some mig rigging for the antennae wire. Wings and fuselage fell victim to my riveting tool. Painted with Tamiya Acrylics, weathered with oils and pigments. I went a bit crazy with the weathering on the drop tank - this was an experiment using the hair spray technique - but apparently very worn drop tanks were quite common especially late war. The pylon holding the tank probably shouldn't be weathered to the same level so this is my mistake. Thanks for looking...!
  6. Due to summer 'distractions' this is not going to be a quick thread, but I'll try to keep you amused with occasional updates. The starting point is an Airfix 1/72 Chipmunk T.10 that I built way back in 1969, shortly after the kit was released; WK574, Cambridge UAS, c 1952 by Philip Pain, on Flickr I have never been happy with the look or accuracy of this kit, but at the time my skill only ran to doing something to correct the canopy, substituting the 'canadian option' windscreen which doesn't have an external frame at the front (it is internal on the real aircraft). WK574, Cambridge UAS, c 1952 by Philip Pain, on Flickr The model is showing its age and the transfers have yellowed. In this view it can be seen that I added the missing flap actuation hinges. WK574, Cambridge UAS, c 1952 by Philip Pain, on Flickr The main problem with the 'look' of the Airfix Chipmunk is that it doesn't have enough 'chin' at the front, also the propellor spinner is too short and bulbous. The intakes on the sides of the engine also too bulbous. WK574, Cambridge UAS, c 1952 by Philip Pain, on Flickr The other big problem is the undercarraige legs which are far too slim, and the wheels don't look right either, being too 'square'. WK574, Cambridge UAS, c 1952 by Philip Pain, on Flickr The cockpit has two seats and nothing else, so I added scratch-built instrument panels. WK574, Cambridge UAS, c 1952 by Philip Pain, on Flickr All of the raised rivets were rubbed down, not that they shouldn't be there, but they were far too prominent. I made a mistake with painting the yellow 'T-bands', they don't go on to the flaps. So I was delighted when AZ Models recently released a new 1/72 Chipmunk kit, and the box promises much; Chipmunk T.10 (1) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr Chipmunk T.10 (2) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr The contents were less inspiring, but seemed ok Chipmunk T.10 (4) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr It is a typical 'short-run' kit, a bit rough around the edges, and generally lacking mounting pins and tabs, making it hard to glue together at times. Chipmunk T.10 (7) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr It has a full cockpit interior, but a familiar problem soon became apparent - once again the canopy is wrong! External frames front and rear, don't Chipmunk mould makers ever go and look at the real thing!? The AZ Models canopy is actually worse than the original Airfix one, because the windscreen is too long with the main frame set too far back. So I've tried to disguise this fault by extending the forward instrument coaming to fill the gap. Chipmunk T.10 (8) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr So here is the basic assembly, and there were big gaps to be filled with modelling putty. Chipmunk T.10 (9) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr Also on the tail, and the spin-recovery strakes were a bitch to get right due to their small size, and vague fit. Also it should be completely flat from one tailplane to the other, but the AZ model has a raised rear fuselage in between. This took a lot of whittling down. So I was starting to lose faith with this model, so I dug out one of my un-built original Airfix kits, to compare notes and check out the differences; Chipmunk T.10 (10) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr And then I couldn't help but start making the Airfix one as well! This time using the AZ model as a guide to correct the Airfix one. Chipmunk T.10 (11) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr Added a basic interior to the Airfix one, and scratch built a pair of spin-recovery strakes for the back end. The Airfix kit also has an annoying feature at the back end, with the tailplanes split where there isn't a split on the real thing. This takes careful filling and sanding to get the required flat finish from one side to the other. But basically the Airfix main parts go together well, with smaller and better aligned gaps. Chipmunk T.10 (12) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr Using the AZ kit as a guide, the incorrect Airfix nose, spinner, and undercarraige legs were then improved using modelling putty. In this photo they still need a bit of finishing off. Chipmunk T.10 (13) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr So now there are two, roughly similar. The front instrument coaming on the Airfix Chipmunk (right) has also been extended, just to make it look better. Chipmunk T.10 (14) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr Chipmunk T.10 (15) w by Philip Pain, on Flickr Here are the two canopies, AZ on the left. Both have had the front and rear external frames filed off and re-polished. Also being made are the two prominent internal frames to go in the rear of each canopy, both absent from the kits. I'm not looking forward to gluing them in place, as there is no room for error with glue and transparencies. So that is the progress, so far.
  7. My entry will be Italeri's C-47 finished as an aircraft operated by Buffalo Airways using the Leading Edge decals.
  8. And for my first post I give you something you've all probably seen a million times over A bit of background, I got the modelling bug when I was about 8, received my first kits, an F-5 and an ME262, both Airfix, back then I produced some pretty nasty pieces of work, although it's to be expected at that age. I then stopped for a bit after the age of 11, dabbled with certain kits at certain times as and when I felt like it, and the bug came back to me when I was 16, just over a year ago. The particular kit I am about to show you is one which I have had for most of this time, and I'm thankful that I did. because I don't think I could look back on such a model, but enough drivel about the past, lets get on with the kit, and the project: I am intending to create a lineup of at least 3 F-16 models, I only have one for the moment, however I will get more when the time comes, hopefully the gap between each build isn't too long, however I suppose you never know until it happens... The first of the models is this one: It's Revell's boxing of the F-16AM, in Tigermeet 09 livery, which I've always been too scared to touch because I want it to be perfect, however it seemed the perfect model to practice airbrushing with as the paintjob itself is pretty simple, the rest is just decals. The boxart is quite nice... Obligatory sprue shot, note the bent decal sheet as they didn't actually fit in the box... (You're going to have to excuse the sideways shot there) Unfortunately it had some loose parts too: I started building with the tail, seems like a good place to start, What got me was how where the small pointy bits were (If anyone could shed some light as to what they are that would be wonderful), there were, what appeared to be scratches which looked slightly like lightning... Only on one side however... The instructions stated to put this bit in where the L shape is inside the chute pit (I'm really bad with the whole terminology thing you're going to have to excuse me here), however I found that putting it above the L shape made it more accurate, otherwise it would seem too low: And the final picture for today, the main gear well has been constructed, fun times. (The flash exposed the ejector pin marks, I shall clean them up in just a bit) That's all for today, hopefully I've got everything right with regards to forum standards and everything Any comments, criticisms, advice, you name it, is welcome, and I look forward to getting involved with this forum. Thanks for reading.
  9. RS Models (http://rsmodels.cz/en/Homepage/default) is to release some Yakovlev Yak-11/C-11 "Moose" kits - first ref. 92165 & 92166 Yak-11 / C-11 "Moose" - ref.92165 Source: http://rsmodels.cz/en/modely-letadel/plastikove-modely/1-72/92165/yak-11-c-11-moose Remember MikroMir has also a 1/72nd Yak-11 in its 2014 programme... http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234959446-new-mikro-mir-aircraft-programme-2014/?hl=mikro Yak-11 / C-11 "Moose" - ref.92166 Source: http://rsmodels.cz/en/modely-letadel/plastikove-modely/1-72/92166/yak-11-c-11-moose V.P.
  10. RS Models is to reissue its 1/72nd Miles M.14 Magister kit - ref.92167 Source: http://rsmodels.cz/en/modely-letadel/plastikove-modely/1-72/92167/miles-magister Previous boxing ref.92120 (http://rsmodels.cz/en/modely-letadel/plastikove-modely/1-72/92120/miles-magister-maggiebomber) and 92117 (http://rsmodels.cz/en/modely-letadel/plastikove-modely/1-72/92117/miles-magister) V.P.
  11. Hello all - this is my just finished Tamiya P-47 Razorback in 1/72 - Sleepy Time Gal. It was a very nice kit and was a very enjoyable to build. Fit was great and it's just very well engineered. If you're looking to do a razorback in the scale, look no further. Maybe a bit more pricey than others out there but well worth it IMHO. As always, I had trouble dealing to Tamiya's kit decals but I got there in the end. Aftermarket details were: Eduard seat belts, Aber turned brass gun barrels (although technically they are gun barrel covers) and a Yuhu Photo etched instrument panel. Painted with Tamiya Acrylics, weathered with oils and Mig pigments. I did a wip which if you're interested, you can check out here: I've already got the bubble top version so looking forward to getting on with that - no doubt it will be just a nice as this one. Thanks for looking
  12. Hi guys; This is my 4° model finished this year. This model is really good. Fine lines and very correct. About RLM's, I used a mix of Tamiya paints. I riveted all model with a Dousek Riveter and I used OWL FUG 220 lichtenstein set. Thank you for your attention!! Cheers.

    Big Jim's Bird

    VF-17 "Jolly Rogers" F4U-1A White 3 - Lt Frederick "Big Jim" Streig Bougainville 1944. This is the Revell kit brush painted OOTB. At 1/72 scale it provides a lot of nice detail at a low price. A few fit issues were overcome during the build, and it was an enjoyable project. TFL Cheers Greg
  14. Well my Spitfires decals were settling so I was stuck for something to do so I decided I would make a start on one of the builds I would like to do for this GB. This ones just going to be a quick out the box effort on Academys 1/72 MiG-27. I know the kits got its issues, I beleive the nose is wrong for a D and the cockpit detail is almost none existant but I'm just looking for a quick build again at the moment and not get bogged down with corrections and detailing etc on this whilst I'm waiting on parts for a couple of other builds I want to get done for this and another gb so onwards. Obligatory box and sprue shot:
  15. Challenger350Pilot

    Building a Heller 1/72 Connie

    Thought I'd share a work in progress...this is the Heller 1/72 scale Super Constellation; planning to finish this one as a blue window striped KLM "The Flying Dutchman," scheme flown circa 1958, though I have not decided on a specific aircraft reproduction. The project is coming along, and beginning to look like a Connie...but lots more to do. I am using quite a bit of detailing parts not included in the kit: Fisher engines and props, Scale Aircraft Conversions metal landing gear, and Plus Model wheel bays. Enjoy...... Had to do quite a bit of puttying and closing of seams, with tons of sanding. I closed the windows, because I'll use 3D window decals in the final version. Here you can see the pre-prime "chop-job" of the outboard engine nacelle, so that the Fisher engines fit properly to the model. I'm pretty new at sawing and hacking major parts off the original model, and in this process, managed to damage the nacelle...but nothing that more putty and more sanding couldn't solve..... Here's an underbelly pic of the main landing gear bays prior to detail installation. This is the left main landing gear wheel bay, with details installed, prior to priming and painting. Hydraulic and electrical lines added using small gauge wire. Main landing gear detailed and primed..... Nose gear detail.... Main gear detail... Engines, props, and gear all primed.... Prep for Alclad airframe aluminum.... Engines almost completed...need to attach cowl flaps, which I mount slightly open... Fuselage and wings primed, gray wing panels and radome painted....
  16. 06/24

    Like buses...

    There are several PSC tanks on the go and I'm afraid I'm joining the hoard. Traditional box and sprue shots. Not previously started at all as I only bought it at lunchtime today! Plastic Soldier Company 1/72 Panzer IV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Plastic Soldier Company 1/72 Panzer IV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr Plastic Soldier Company 1/72 Panzer IV by Jon Gwinnett, on Flickr I know virtually nothing about Panzer IVs so I hope the cognoscenti will help me along the way.
  17. Howdy folks, this is for now just a slot keeper, I'll add photos as soon as I get the jest of how to post them. Enjoy the group.
  18. So further to a request for more Royal Navy subjects its only fitting to start at the beginning. This will be a build of the Holland 1, a 1/72 resin model by Choroszy Modelbud. Clean up on isle 7 i hear you say and you wouldnt be wrong, there is a lot of cleaning up and prep of parts, as youd expect with a limited run resin kit. The mouldings are not bad, most bits look as they should. The biggest challenge will be the hull halves, as on the top edge a whopping 4mm needs to be trimmed off on each half! This is to allow the deck casing to sit properly on the cast guides. So heres some picks to start with, some parts have had the excess trimmed off, as ive made a tentative start. All the best Chris
  19. This is my rendition of Hasegawa's Martin SP-5B/P5M-2S Marlin. This is a fairly old kit with the molds dating back to 1971 according to Scalemates. It does show its age with raised panel lines and a very sparse interior, but it went together issue free and only took 12 days start to finish. Given its age I was surprised to see that with the exception of Caracal decals there are no after market parts. I used the Caracal decals, printed by MicroScale, since the kit ones were old and yellowing. I also used a Pavla S2F cockpit interior which fit pretty well and was better then the original non interior. All together a pleasant build. On to the pictures: I can't get a good picture of the cockpit, but this is the best I can do Next up is the Heller EC-121 Warningstar for which I do have a boat load of after market parts. Enjoy
  20. Like many others I’ve recently been taking part in the fantastic Panzer IV GB. Unlike many others, my skills aren’t exactly ‘top notch’ so I chose to go for quantity over quality. I had a few kits depicting Panzer IV’s – so I decided to build them all. There were six tanks in total – from four manufacturers and they had varying levels of ‘finesse’. I had two Armourfast Ausf G’s with virtually no detail whatsoever and particularly woeful tracks – but as I picked them up for a fiver for the pair it would have been rude not to build them at some point and the GB gave me the perfect chance. I added some spare tracks and bits of ‘stowage’ to ‘tart them up’ a bit and pinched a pair of skirts from another kit to hide the tracks on one. I doubt I would buy any more Armourfast in the future – but at least I got them out of the stash cupboard. My good buddy @badger had recommended the Revell Ausf H, which falls at the other end of the spectrum. Now to be honest it was a real challenge with my poor eyesight and non-too dextrous hands – but we should all embrace a challenge and it turned out to be great fun – if a little fragile (I managed to snap off part of the turret skirt and indeed the barrel in the final stages of the build). I have never done link tracks before and it was nerve racking – but I do like the effect. I have three Revell Tigers in the cupboard for the forthcoming GB & I’m really looking forward to butchering them in a similar style. Some may know that I’m a huge fan of ‘PLASTIC SOLDIER COMPANY’ kits – not only because you get three for £18 and the level of detail is pretty good – if just a little on the ‘clunky’ side. I donated one kit to @Lawzer and ‘twisted his arm’ to join the GB & kept the other two for myself. They could be made up as various Ausf – but I went for H’s. I left off one set of skirts – as the wheel detail isn’t too bad – if not 100% accurate. Finally I was ‘gifted’ an Italeri F2 ‘quick build’ kit a while back and found it in a grippy bag towards the end of the GB. With a quick extra hole squeezed into the muzzle I declared it as an ‘early G’. This simply ‘fell together’ in no time at all and I might have a look at the ‘quick build’ Tigers – to beef up my ‘team tiny panzer’ army. I decided to finish all these in a common theme of Tricolour camo with badges from 12th SS Panzer ‘Hitlerjugend’ division. Who saw some combat in Normandy against my pet favourites the British 11th Armoured Division – ‘The Black Bull’. I hadn’t attempted Tricolour before and enjoyed the experience – if a little daunting at first. All in all I had a smashing time and would like to thank the hosts Co-Hosts: @PlaStix and @vppelt68 for setting up a brilliant GB that has seen me through the dark winter nights and an even darker period in my work life. Thankfully the nights are now getting lighter and things at work have settled down – hence me penning this in worktime – rather than trying to kill a member of my staff. I hope you enjoy the fruits of my labour and if you can add anything constructive – please feel free to chip in… Thanks for taking a peek - Steve
  21. New Polish company decided to release new tool plastic kits of PZL W-3 Sokół helicopter. Firstly in 1/48 and then later in 1/72. Company have normal site, but it is empty now.
  22. Davek72

    Wirbelwind (the little one)

    Here’s my first entry... Looks like a neat little kit. Hope to make start later. Dave
  23. Hi folks, Not one to rest on past laurels -- or pratfalls -- as I was nearing the end of my 1/72 Hasegawa F-110A Spectre model just finished, and, as is my custom, when nearing then end of such builds, I immediately began work on another model, a 1/72 Revell F-101B, to add to my collection of U.S. "Voodoo" named aircraft. But, after some major painting, and while removing the masks, I found a major problem! I had been having problems with an airbrush, and having shot Alclad II grey primer all over, I discovered that I had not gotten the primer over all areas of the model. The primer and model's plastic are nearly the same color, and my aging eyes failed to detect the missing spots. Then of course, I sprayed the model overall grey, masked it, then began painting the bare metal rear end parts and the darker areas on the nose. Anyway, the paint started lifting here and there with removal of the masks and, long story short -- I decided to strip all the paint from the whole model and start over. For what it's worth, Testor's ELO stripper ALSO removes Perfect Plastic Putty!! Anyway, that project has been moved to the back shelf for now. Maybe one day, I'll mention it again. So, that left me with a conundrum on what to do next. I've had several ideas in mind, but with troubles on my last two modeling attempts -- both of which were more or less OOB. I decided to fight back! If I was going to have major aggravation with more or less easy builds, this time, I decided to do a real barn burner, and REALLY challenge the modeling gods by building a YF-105A prototype, from before the time when the F-105 became "wasp-waisted"... Now many of us builders of U.S. aircraft, or builders of prototypes have long wanted a model to play with. No such luck. Even our friends at Anigrand or the many great vacuform makers of yesteryear ever saw fit to grace us with this beauty -- or at least none of which I'M aware! As with my P2V-3 Neptune of a couple of years ago, I waited and waited, and then finally had to do it myself.; In this case however, the driving force was a great Japanese modeler over on a site called "X-Plane Model Museum" out of Japan, I found where a Japanese modeler had done a YF-105A, in 1/48" scale -- which of course is an abomination to all that's Holy and Right.... Anyway, for those interested, here's a picture of his final result (grabbed from the website): and here's a link to his building thread, which of course is all in Japanese: Corrected 1/48 YF-105A Link Now if you go there, you will find that the build consists of 29 articles, each with 4 - 12 pictures, and each with it's own Japanese language commentary. Over 100 pictures in all, and most are very informative. I used Google Translate to translate each one of those articles to English, which as is prone to happen, was in some cases, not very meaningful. Sometimes, things really are lost in the translation! One of those thing that I could never figure out was the modeler's name. I think he just used a 'nym of just letters and numbers. I tried to contact him to say great job, but I found out you had to join the blog to get even close to a member's list or e-mail, and I did not relish the idea of translating everything I might encounter there. Anyway for the purposes of my build, I shall refer to the original modeler as TGO (the Great One) from now on. If anyone reading this knows him (or her) please pass along my appreciation for his efforts. After poring over what I found in his build thread, I began to examine ways that I could repeat his success, albeit with perhaps just a hair less work -- as I am actually quite lazy. He did a lot of stuff that I won't do, such as dropping the flaps and the slats. Since many 'Thud drivers state that they never left the flaps and slats open on the ground, and this will not be a "maintenance scene" type build, I won't be going there. Feel free to look and see how TGO did it, however. For my efforts, I'll use the old standard Revell F-105D, as well as the nose from a Hasegawa F-105B, taken from a Thunderbirds set I bought decades ago: It was a bagged kit, so no box art there... Having failed to find any usable 3-views, I will use TGO's pictures and a side view from the book "Famous Aircraft of the World #4": This is as close to a flat view as I could get. Please note the 3 inch and 10 centimeter markings atop the page. If you copy this photo and size it where either of those lines are exactly as stated, you'll have a 1/72 scale side view without having to spend a fortune, as there is really nothing much else in the book that is helpful to this effort. Having armed myself with this wealth of material, I'll now press forward. While TGO started off with the fuselage, I will not. I will start instead, by answering a question that comes up on-line from time to time: Will the Hasegawa F-105B nose fit on the Revell - Monogram F-105D? Please understand we are not talking about the really ancient old "box scale" Monogram B model, but the newer, I guess 80's version. I began by taping the Hasegawa "B" fuselage halves together, and laying a strip of tape around the nose just behind the kit's front gear well edge: After making certain the tape was straight all around the curve of the nose, I used the X-Acto knife to scribe a line alongside the front edge of the tape. I then used that line to guide a Trumpeter panel line scriber for around three passes, to define a clear line for the razor saw to follow. Below, you'll see one side cut and one side left to do: Above right, you'll see the same procedure done to the Revell F-105D. The tape has been pushed back a little on the right side to indicate the three verticle vents, the rearward side of which I used to help line up the tape vertically for the marking, scribing and sawing procedure. I also fudges this cut a little in front of the landing gear well, to have some sanding room, if needed, As you can see below, after a little sanding the fit was pretty good: This procedure was so precise, I probably could have cut both noses exactly on the front end of the gear well and saved some sanding. This however calls attention to the fact that if I had cut the B nose further back, the fit would have been about perfect. However, previous measurement had shown that then the nose would have been too long to be as accurate, because the difference between the B and D models' length was about the same as the different nose lengths, plus removing the overly-long part of the Hasegawa front gear bay. For what it's worth, both the Hasegawa and the Revell kit were dead on for the correct lengths for their particular versions. Well, at least it's a start. Hang around if you dare for some old-school, kit-bashing conversion action... Ed
  24. scottyphbeta

    Jaguar GR1 Drop Tank Decals

    Does anyone know where I can get some drop tank decals for an RAF Grey/Green cammo Jaguar 1/72? I have the Hasegawa kit with Pavla resin drop tanks. Can anything else be used from other types?
  25. Reading back through the chat I realised I originally signed up for GB in 2013 with the plan to build a Hudson. My entry for this GB is Italeri 1/72 Lockheed Hudson, will be finished a 500 Squadron aircraft in the classic Dark Sea Grey / Dark Slate Grey over White.