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  1. Blurred props for the “in-flight” look.
  2. Hi everyone, My latest completion for 2019 is Zvezda's Yak-130 in 1/72, a very nice kit of an attractive little aircraft. Physically the model is OOB with Begemot providing the decals and Peewit the canopy mask. Paints are Colourcoats ARG03 Africa Korps Tan Yellow and Humbrol 103 Cream for the upper surface whilst I used 65 Aircraft Blue for the underside. The cockpit is all Humbrol - 175 Hellgrau for the base with 124 Petrol Blue (both long discontinued) for the instrument panels whilst the MFDs are 85 Satin Black. Various Humbrol colours were used for all the details. Unfortunately the Begemot roundels were a bit out of register on the sheet I bought, particularly the fuselage ones and there were a few errors in both the placement of the markings and recommended camouflage pattern. I did a bit of hunting around on the 'net and found THIS thread on the Yak-130 on what's called the ForcesDZ forum which was an immense help in determing the correct colour demarcation and marking placement, although I still made a mistake with the fuselage roundels! The forum is primarily in French with some Arabic but it seems like a good source for info on the Algerian armed forces 🇩🇿. Now for the pics: Comments and feedback welcome! Mike.
  3. Hi all This is a conversion I'm doing of the ModelCollect T-80BV kit to a modernised version. The sand coloured resin parts are home-cast pieces and I've used a few bits from other kits - the Zvezda BMPT and T-90A. A master for the turret reactive armour modules. Turret roof reactive armour I thinned the turret stowage basket The competed turret The completed model. A couple of coats of primer
  4. Afternoon folk's. Built for the excellent 50's NATO/WARPAC GB is Trumpeter's Seahawk, the W German Navy operated them into the 60's replacing them with the F-104Starfighter.Nice kit this one, easy build and no vice's I ordered the RN version as I'm building Cyberhobbies Sea Venom as well, the wrong boxing turned up and I'm pleased it did as the German version isn't seen too much,many thank's for looking in.
  5. Hi! This is my Messerschmitt Bf.109E-4 from Tamiya, build OOB with etched seatbelts (Eduard) Bf 109E-4 'Black Chevron and Triangle' flown by Hauptmann Hans von Hahn, Gruppenkommandeur l./JG 3, August 1940 Cheers, Slavi
  6. Inspired by my trip to the Yeovilton Air Day in 2018 this is my latest attempt the 1/72 Sova M Dassault Falcon 50 Surmar, typical short run kit lots of filling, the interior is bare except for the cockpit so I scratchbuilt the area around the observers positions to fill the area around the observation windows, the rest of the windows were blanked off as these aircraft seem to fly with blinds drawn down alot of the time. The surface detail is very nice and the decals are very thin which means the walkway lines on the wings are best cut to shorter lengths to prevent them folding over on themselves. Dassault Falcon 50 Surmar 1/72 by Phillip Wilmshurst, on Flickr Dassault Falcon 50 Surmar 1/72 by Phillip Wilmshurst, on Flickr Dassault Falcon 50 Surmar 1/72 by Phillip Wilmshurst, on Flickr Dassault Falcon 50 Surmar 1/72 by Phillip Wilmshurst, on Flickr Dassault Falcon 50 Surmar 1/72 by Phillip Wilmshurst, on Flickr Enjoy, Willy
  7. Joining you with this Hasegawa T-33 Shooting Star kit. Costing me £2.50 from Kit Rescue at IPMS Avon model show in 2014. The kit has decals for the Thunderbirds demonstration team - not going that way. This Heller model from 1995 is the reason why not. Edited 19 April 2019, now has pilots. Today Hepster gave me two very tempting decal sheets. Xtradecal X72-120 and X72-121 which are far more interesting. I'm very torn, between the option with hi-vis red panels, And the two-tone grey option.
  8. Hi folks, Not one to rest on past laurels -- or pratfalls -- as I was nearing the end of my 1/72 Hasegawa F-110A Spectre model just finished, and, as is my custom, when nearing then end of such builds, I immediately began work on another model, a 1/72 Revell F-101B, to add to my collection of U.S. "Voodoo" named aircraft. But, after some major painting, and while removing the masks, I found a major problem! I had been having problems with an airbrush, and having shot Alclad II grey primer all over, I discovered that I had not gotten the primer over all areas of the model. The primer and model's plastic are nearly the same color, and my aging eyes failed to detect the missing spots. Then of course, I sprayed the model overall grey, masked it, then began painting the bare metal rear end parts and the darker areas on the nose. Anyway, the paint started lifting here and there with removal of the masks and, long story short -- I decided to strip all the paint from the whole model and start over. For what it's worth, Testor's ELO stripper ALSO removes Perfect Plastic Putty!! Anyway, that project has been moved to the back shelf for now. Maybe one day, I'll mention it again. So, that left me with a conundrum on what to do next. I've had several ideas in mind, but with troubles on my last two modeling attempts -- both of which were more or less OOB. I decided to fight back! If I was going to have major aggravation with more or less easy builds, this time, I decided to do a real barn burner, and REALLY challenge the modeling gods by building a YF-105A prototype, from before the time when the F-105 became "wasp-waisted"... Now many of us builders of U.S. aircraft, or builders of prototypes have long wanted a model to play with. No such luck. Even our friends at Anigrand or the many great vacuform makers of yesteryear ever saw fit to grace us with this beauty -- or at least none of which I'M aware! As with my P2V-3 Neptune of a couple of years ago, I waited and waited, and then finally had to do it myself.; In this case however, the driving force was a great Japanese modeler over on a site called "X-Plane Model Museum" out of Japan, I found where a Japanese modeler had done a YF-105A, in 1/48" scale -- which of course is an abomination to all that's Holy and Right.... Anyway, for those interested, here's a picture of his final result (grabbed from the website): and here's a link to his building thread, which of course is all in Japanese: Corrected 1/48 YF-105A Link Now if you go there, you will find that the build consists of 29 articles, each with 4 - 12 pictures, and each with it's own Japanese language commentary. Over 100 pictures in all, and most are very informative. I used Google Translate to translate each one of those articles to English, which as is prone to happen, was in some cases, not very meaningful. Sometimes, things really are lost in the translation! One of those thing that I could never figure out was the modeler's name. I think he just used a 'nym of just letters and numbers. I tried to contact him to say great job, but I found out you had to join the blog to get even close to a member's list or e-mail, and I did not relish the idea of translating everything I might encounter there. Anyway for the purposes of my build, I shall refer to the original modeler as TGO (the Great One) from now on. If anyone reading this knows him (or her) please pass along my appreciation for his efforts. After poring over what I found in his build thread, I began to examine ways that I could repeat his success, albeit with perhaps just a hair less work -- as I am actually quite lazy. He did a lot of stuff that I won't do, such as dropping the flaps and the slats. Since many 'Thud drivers state that they never left the flaps and slats open on the ground, and this will not be a "maintenance scene" type build, I won't be going there. Feel free to look and see how TGO did it, however. For my efforts, I'll use the old standard Revell F-105D, as well as the nose from a Hasegawa F-105B, taken from a Thunderbirds set I bought decades ago: It was a bagged kit, so no box art there... Having failed to find any usable 3-views, I will use TGO's pictures and a side view from the book "Famous Aircraft of the World #4": This is as close to a flat view as I could get. Please note the 3 inch and 10 centimeter markings atop the page. If you copy this photo and size it where either of those lines are exactly as stated, you'll have a 1/72 scale side view without having to spend a fortune, as there is really nothing much else in the book that is helpful to this effort. Having armed myself with this wealth of material, I'll now press forward. While TGO started off with the fuselage, I will not. I will start instead, by answering a question that comes up on-line from time to time: Will the Hasegawa F-105B nose fit on the Revell - Monogram F-105D? Please understand we are not talking about the really ancient old "box scale" Monogram B model, but the newer, I guess 80's version. I began by taping the Hasegawa "B" fuselage halves together, and laying a strip of tape around the nose just behind the kit's front gear well edge: After making certain the tape was straight all around the curve of the nose, I used the X-Acto knife to scribe a line alongside the front edge of the tape. I then used that line to guide a Trumpeter panel line scriber for around three passes, to define a clear line for the razor saw to follow. Below, you'll see one side cut and one side left to do: Above right, you'll see the same procedure done to the Revell F-105D. The tape has been pushed back a little on the right side to indicate the three verticle vents, the rearward side of which I used to help line up the tape vertically for the marking, scribing and sawing procedure. I also fudges this cut a little in front of the landing gear well, to have some sanding room, if needed, As you can see below, after a little sanding the fit was pretty good: This procedure was so precise, I probably could have cut both noses exactly on the front end of the gear well and saved some sanding. This however calls attention to the fact that if I had cut the B nose further back, the fit would have been about perfect. However, previous measurement had shown that then the nose would have been too long to be as accurate, because the difference between the B and D models' length was about the same as the different nose lengths, plus removing the overly-long part of the Hasegawa front gear bay. For what it's worth, both the Hasegawa and the Revell kit were dead on for the correct lengths for their particular versions. Well, at least it's a start. Hang around if you dare for some old-school, kit-bashing conversion action... Ed
  9. Hi! I present a model of an unusual machine - Flakhetzer, 1/72 Attack Hobby Kits with PE set from NHDetail and Aber gun barrel.
  10. Built a few years ago my Hurricane IIB with Airfix figures, ICM Motorcycle and cottage Resin Anti Aircraft gun revetment. n
  11. Hi.. This year mark Phantom's 60th Anniversary, a local modelling group here organize a Phantom Group Build. And since I have several in my stash, and this GB start right in my off-shore work schedule, obviously I'm obliged to join up. I start with these two 1/72 Phantom; Fujimi (Fgr.1, with Raspberry Ripple Scheme and 25th Anniversary marking) and Revell (JG.71 "Richtofen" Anniversary marking). The build started as soon I arrived and set in my usual "off shore work bench", with the F-4F got the first cut, filled the injection marks. I learned that one of the (apparently, many) flaws of the Revell was in the cockpit area. The Ejection seat mas set too low, I add several stack of evergreen strips I have with me. This made the instrument panel seated lower, So I hack out the kit's, made a new one using the strips, and glued the kit's instrument panel to keep with the original detail. Added some tiny detail to the other parts of the cockpit (wiring from the WSO's instrument panel, circuit breaker panel on the WSO's cockpit) I really not much of a Phantom Phreaks like many of you guys, and I don't have many references lying around here so.. any comments / reference are welcome.. Cheers, Mario
  12. I was keen on receiving Eduard's new 1/72 MiG-21MF last year and got one as early as I could. 6 weeks and 50000 (not really, but you get the point) decals later, I was done with what I think is the best kit I have ever made.. Its beautifully engineered and has details that would blow your mind, but does make you work hard to achieve the fidelity it deserves. As profiled here before, the Profi-pack boxing comes with a variety of schemes, but I chose to build a MiG that was a true war-horse in the Middle East. Painted in the Znamya Truda camouflage in which several Arab Type-96s were delivered from the Soviet Union, it represents an aircraft of the Syrian Arab Air Force in the days leading up to the Lebanon War when they were outclassed and outgunned by the Israeli Air Force. Not deterred by the daunting challenges, Syrian pilots took the war to the Israelis and made the best use of their versatile and agile MiG-21. SyAAF is a shadow of its former self these days, but continues to be one of the most secretive air arms in the world. Their pilots and their MiG-21s continue to defend the homeland, but the enemy is very very different. If you are a MiG-21 aficionado, look no further than this kit. Parked alongside my old Kopro MF. Incredible how far we have come with MiG-21 kits. [
  13. This must be Quatre Bras because Frederick William, Duke of Brunswick is with the Leib Battalion. He lost his life with them there. I added one of the officers to Heinemann's Horse Battery
  14. Just finished this 1/72 Italeri jaguar GR3 for my grandson. Depicted as the final flight from Coningsby in 1990 (although Sgt Vernon's name on the side comes from the final taxi at Cosford I believe?), The kit is very straightforward but the decals are a bit 'challenging' so buckets of microsol were required! Pilot figure is an awful Sword (I think?) figure from the spares box, but all I had at short notice unfortunately.
  15. The IAF received six MiG 21 F-13s with 12 An 12s and 10 Mi-4s and three sqns of the SAM III in 1960-1963 as the first of a large number of Soviet and Russian equipment to follow. This is the famous Revell kit. I had the honour of having the base signed by Hero of the Soviet union Mikhael Mikoyan, nephew of the great Artem Mikoyan. He started his flying over Stalingrad on Yak 3s in 1943 and ended as a test pilot with RAC MiG. He was instrumental in training Indian pilots on the F-13 in 1962 because he was fluent in English. like all Armenians, his name ended in ..yan.
  16. What I am still missing since I've got the Airfix "Battle of Waterloo set" in 1978 is the carriage that took Napoleon Bonaparte over most of Europe during those days. That would really be an interesting challenge for Zvezda, Italeri, HäT or even Airfix. https://www.napoleon.org/en/history-of-the-two-empires/articles/napoleons-military-carriage/ Best Regards /André
  17. Mach 2 (http://www.mach2.fr/avionsg.htm) is to release a 1/72nd family of Aérospatiale Ecureuil helicopters. ref. GP.059 - Aérospatiale AS.350 Ecureuil (French Gendarmerie) Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/as350-ecureuil-french-gendarmerie-gp059-mach-2-gp059-scale-modelling/product/?shopid=LM545799cb78d2964af7209c241a&action=prodinfo&parent_id=212&art=129296 ref. GP.060 - Aérospatiale AS.350 Squirrel (Royal Australian Navy, Army) Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/as350-squirrel-royal-australian-navy-army-gp060-mach-2-gp060-scale-modelling/product/?shopid=LM545799cb78d2964af7209c241a&action=prodinfo&parent_id=212&art=129297 ref. GP061 - Aérospatiale AS.550 Fennec (Royal Danish Army) Source: http://www.aviationmegastore.com/as550-fennec-royal-danish-army-gp061-mach-2-gp061-scale-modelling/product/?shopid=LM545799cb78d2964af7209c241a&action=prodinfo&parent_id=212&art=129298 V.P.
  18. Friends, Here is the Hasegawa Macchi Mc.202 Folgore. I cannot remember exactly when I built this kit, but it`s been more than a few years ago. The highlights of this kit are as follows.............. 1. Mike Grant Decals for the iconic “spinach / smoke rings” found on the Folgore. 2. Tamiya painted tape for the seat belts. 3. Painted white fuselage band and tail cross insignia 4. Polly Scale paint : Italian Hazel Tan and Italian Lower surface gray ( WWII ) 5. Used kit supplied squadron insignia and national markings on the wings. 6. Weathered with chalk pastels. Chipping with silver paint 7. Pencils used to highlight panel lines and movable surfaces. I enjoyed putting this kit together. I had no issues at all and it was simple with all of the parts fitting together nicely. The “Rings” from Mike Grant Decals made this possible as I would still be carrying the migraine headache from trying to accurately replicate them in 72nd scale. I would recommend this kit for all ages and skill levels. I hope you enjoy the results. Thank you in advance!!!!!! Respectfully submitted, Mike
  19. Friends, Here is the Trumpeter Su-24 Fencer. Ever since I first looked at the hazy and grainy pictures of the Fencer back in the late 70`s (?), I was intrigued by the Soviet version of the F-111. Time has passed since I put this one together and with my memory being as foggy as it is, I cannot recall which sub mode this one is. As for the kit, I had no significant issues apart from the wings having a tendency to sag or droop. I just guessed on the paint color and went with the closest match via color pictures from World AirPower Journal and of course, the internet. I built everything straight out of the box and weathered the strike fighter with a combination of pastels, pencils, and washes. I used Tamiya ( painted ) tape for the seat belts to highlight the well appointed cockpit in a most simple manner. Trumpeter was generous with providing numerous external stores. While Fencers would likely never carry this type of weapons load, I went for the effect of the variety of the ordnance. I used the kit supplied decals. I would recommend the “Flying Suitcase” to those with an interest in Soviet era jet aircraft. I hope you enjoy the results. *Note : The horizontal stabilizers on Fencers would point down in a forward manner when at rest but I opted for the “clean” look instead. Thank you in advance!!!!! Respectfully submitted, Mike
  20. Zvezda kit built in the latter part of 2018. This was a practice build (and my first serious attempt at freehand camo work) before I tackled the Eduard kit. A mostly OOB affair, with the Master Models pitot tube as the only aftermarket addition. As always, thanks for looking 🙂
  21. Final one for now, built this at the start of the year, excellent kit, built OOB. Airfix Dakota C4, Middle East Communications Squadron circa 1967. Again photographs taken using my ipad.
  22. Well - this time I'll try to follow suite and post most of the finished model pictures here. You can follow the build here: Comments are welcomed Ran
  23. Friends, This is the Hasegawa E-2C Hawkeye. When I put this one together, I wanted something unique and different on my shelf. The kit was straightforward and I added Scale Aircraft Conversions metal landing gear, cockpit, and gear wells. Because of the nature of the airframe in kit form, it is ripe to be a tail sitter. I am pleased that I was able to get this one to sit properly. With the radome and complex tail, I added a very large lead fishing sinker just aft of the cockpit inside the fuselage. I then smothered the lead weights with plumbers putty and happily, the Hawkeye sat right. I did experience plenty of problems with the decals. I used Authentic Decals ( #72-30 Pacific Fleet ). The first nondescript decal broke apart. I then used the squadron markings and went with standard stars, numbers, and letters from other sources. From the reference pictures I found on the internet, Hawkeyes did not weather much so I lightly dusted the big bird. I would suggest this kit only for modelers with more experience. Thank you in advance!!!!!! Respectfully submitted, Mike
  24. Hello everybody... I haven't done a WIP here for awhile. Most of my builds over the last several months have either been built offline, or down in the Group build section. Im starting this to use the 109 as a fill-in. While im waiting for my Patton tank to dry or set down in that group build. I received this AZ 109 from @vppelt68 as a gift, so im also keeping a promise to him to do a WIP. The kit looks a lot like what i imagine an eduard Bf-109 to be, if they did one in 1/72. Here i believe is where he got the kit from. That is a good representation of the sprues. I even got one set of belts & decals from him. The decals are for Finnish Bf-109G MT-505. Im actually rather excited by this as I am part Finnish and this will be my very first Finnish aircraft. Most likely not my last. Questions, comments, or jokes if you please ? Progress may be a bit slow at first until i see how the Patton group build is getting along. Dennis
  25. Saved from the shelf of doom, I started this kit couple of years ago under rather funny circumstances. It all started with me having a go at the rather modern Hobby Boss F-5E only to discover its biggest glaring issue - the windscreen being way too short. To remedy the problem, I bought a water damaged Italeri kit off of eBay mostly for its clear parts. Seeing that the Italeri had the right shark nose and squared off LERXs seen on most US aggressor aircraft, I wondered if the HB kit was worth proceeding with. Eventually, I used the Italeri canopy as a basis to form a new windscreen for the HB kit and decided I would do a twin Tiger build. Long story short, I ran out of steam midway and both kits were packed away after reaching primer stage. Fast forward to 2019, I was looking for something to 'finish off quickly' and came across these two again. I decided to just focus on completing the Italeri while I used decals from the HB boxing. I made some minor mods to better represent the subject aircraft, nothing crazy. Modifications made were - Seat headrest changed to improved style (using putty to build the headrest buttress), scratch built the canopy lift mechanism and fashioned an ACMI pod using styrene pipes. The canopy lift feels like an absolute must have for anyone building 1/72 F-5s and took the most time on my build to get right. This is quite characteristic of the F-5 and I have no idea why kit manufacturers decided to leave it out. This was finally finished off over the last week since so much work was already done. I was too lazy to use blu tac on the camo and ending up free-handing it at 1 bar psi. I think it turned out OK. Hope you all like it.
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