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Found 3,849 results

  1. Hello All, I got a really cheap Swordfish from Ebay without undercarriage or decals. I decided to do it on floats using the decals from the one I have in the stash. Here's the parts layout from the one that does have the undercarriage (well, I borrowed a tail wheel...): The kit has fine raised lines and fasteners/rivets to detail the metal areas. The fabric on the flying surfaces is represented by "hill and valley" construction, finely on the tail but quite heavy on the wings. The fabric parts of the fuselage are rounded in section with raised stringers, and had some sections of stringer either faint or missing - I would have preferred a polygonal cross-section, but I went with it as was. The kit provides basic accommodation for pilot and observers, but I cut out the observers coaming and scratched up a new cockpit interior with some foil belts: Progress was swift until I tried to get the upper wings on. I couldn't get the struts to line up and so I had to cut them all off and make some more. I chose some hardwood which I have in thin section, and made some templates (the white card thingeys) using the struts from my other kit, in order to line up the outer struts. Once I had made the plunge it wasn't too bad, apart from the pyramid in the centre section! When I did the old mould Airfix kit, which has a similar approach, I had no problems with the alignment, so I'm not sure what I did wrong this time. It did make cleaning up the bit between the struts easier! You can also see the engine and the gun, which both came up well after a lick of paint. I added a windscreen, control wire guides, control horns, wing hand holds and the catapult spool thingeys, and later I added the step too from a bent brass pin. I sprayed Humbrol acrylic primer followed by Metalcote polished aluminium over a Humbrol 25 blue band, masked off. The Cerrux grey is brushed Humbrol 129. The silver was brush coated with future to protect it, but wore off during construction, so I ended up extensively brush painting it again at the end. I thought the floats were going to be easy: they had moulded one-piece strut assemblies and some detail for the top. However, I realised that I had to sand off and replace the detail, and some struts were misaligned and some were short, so I had to re-align and extend them with some inset brass pins for strength. The diagonal struts then didn't fit so I had to make and fit some more wooden ones. I also replaced the rudders with much thinner card and added the rudder control yokes and cables. I used the kit decals for everything - they worked like a charm, even the warning lines on the floats! Rigging was done with some nylon invisible thread, which was finer than my previous batch and a bit too fine (it looks OK in the photos but in real life it's still a bit invisible). I drilled blind holes in the top wing and all the way through on the lower wing. I did the float rigging with elastic thread from Aeroclub, which was great, so I may just use that in future. I sanded down the raised panel lines and fasteners after painting. This exposed the dark plastic/primer and provides a realistic effect - photos of the real thing show plainly visible panel lines and fasteners. No stealth here! I took advantage of the unseasonable weather to grab some outdoor photos of the finished item: Here it is posed with the old Airfix kit, which I modified considerably about a year ago: Those of you that have the Putnam book on Fairey Aircraft will recognise this pose from the full-page plate: This is a much better representation than the old Airfix and Matchbox/Revell offerings, but it has its issues in the floatplane incarnation (and my floats are still a bit out). Surprisingly, although the old Airfix kit is quite chunky and lacking in detail, it is surprisingly sturdy and well engineered, and I enjoyed the build. I have all the old Swordfishes in my stash and I want to build one of each, so building the old ones works for me. But I also have the new Airfix kit (I have fondled the plastic but not built it) and it is far, far better than any of the old ones in accuracy, detail and engineering. Not only has the industry progressed in forty years, but I think the new Swordfish looks like the best Airfix kit ever. Of course, when I build it I reserve the right to change my opinion! Thanks for looking, Adrian
  2. Just brought these three down from the attic for an airing. It was really nice to see them with the sun glinting on the canopies so I thought I would take some shots and post them up. They are all 1/72 with flaps lowered and detail added. VFA-2 F/A-18F is from the Hasegawa kit VFA-211 F/A-18F is Italeri with Print Scale decals VFA-115 F/A-18E is Italeri with Aeromaster decals
  3. As this is my first post on here I though I'd share some of my recent builds. After a decade of living in a 1 bed flat I now have my own house and room to build model aircraft again. I've been building models on and off since 1990 but i'm a bit rusty. The below are all 1/72nd and are mostly oob builds to get some practice before starting any more challenging builds. Academy NA P-51D Mustang 'Little Shrimp' Airfix Canadair Sabre F4 'XB772' Airfix Muitsubishi Zero 'A1-102' Airfix Hawker Hurricane I 'L1584' Airfix BAe Hawk T1 'Red Arrows' Airfix DH Vampire T.11 'WZ590' Airfix Spitfire F.22 'PK433' Airfix NA Mustang IV 'KM163' Skunkworks MQ-9 Reaper 'ZZ200' Airfix Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IXc 'EN315' Revell Hawker Hurricane IIc 'KZ136' Airfix Folland Gant T1 Airfix Folland Gant T1 'Yellowjacks' Airfix NA P-51D Mustang 'Lollipoop II' More photos or info about the builds available on request. Any comments or suggestions welcome. John
  4. Here's my take on the Kinetic's 1/72 Sufa kit. Built OOB with kit decals. Not bad kit, but with lots of minor snags and quirks that really do get you down, but in the end it looks like a sufa. Used various colours for LGG on the undersides, pylons and fuel tanks namely, MM LGG, HU and Tamiya XF-66 and XF-83. Uppers were done in MM Acryl sand, Gunze H72 and H310, (72 for the CFTs and 310 for the body) and HU 23 sky green. All the dielectrics brush painted with Italeri 36321. AK wash and Alclad Matt cote sealed this one off. [url=http://s856.photobucket.com/user/sdaneels/media/AZ%20Model%20IK-3/Kinetic%20172%20Sufa/IMG_8949_zpse56270a7.jpg.html][/url
  5. Hi all, I'm calling this one done (for now), only got to add u/c legs. Anyway, if you ask me, this is R.J. Mitchell's other design (the Spitfire being the first). It's very hard to believe that the Walrus and Spitfire were designed by the same person only separated by a couple years. This particular Walrus was used by 277 Squadron on D-Day and I've taken inspiration from this painting; I added a vacform canopy, resin engine Vickers gun to improve the old kit as well as scratch building the interior and a few other bits. IMG_7515_zpsc44ac00d by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_7512_zps5f55e312 by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_7511_zps8b896ea7 by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_7510_zps51d841d9 by Ben Standen, on Flickr Pretty happy with how it turned out and very pleased with the water (first time I've ever tried to model sea). Thanks for looking! Ben
  6. Dear fellow modellers, this is Revell's 1/72 Messerschmitt Bf-109 G-10 with upgrades from Quickboost (Propeller, Air Intake), Eduard (Photo Etch), Rob Taurus (Vacu Canopy) and Eagle Cals (Decals). There are some colour pictures of this particular machine, which crash-landed behind American lines in 1945. The camoflage looks like RLM74/RLM75, but with reduced 'red' factor (as seen in Kagero's "Bf-109 G/K Vol.1") it could as well be RLM75/RLM83, which I chose. According to Eagle Cals, this aircraft belonged to I./JG52. The model was painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby colours with my Evolution airbrush. I decided to build this kit before AZ Model's new 109-series is expanded to the G-10. Otherwise, it would have probably been sleeping in my stash forever (a shame with all the aftermarket sets obtained already). Thanks for your interest. With kind regards from Vienna, Roman
  7. I started this build when this kit was first released, but only finished it about 2 months ago. I scratchbuilt a few extra details that Airfix omitted, as well as added some semblance of the harness to the seat. The details I added were the retractable step on the starboard side, the fuel vent on the same side and the standby VHF aerial on the lower rear port fuselage. I also added the missing strakes on the outrigger wheel fairings and used a Master metal pitot tube to replace the kit plastic one. Decals were mostly OOB, with the serials being cut up and rearranged to get XV758 and the Harrier Conversion Unit emblem coming from one of Vingtors excellent Harrier sheets. On with the show, Here are a few detail shots showing some of the little details I added, Anyway, I hope you enjoyed looking at this as much as I enjoyed building it. If you've not built one of these yet, I can highly recommend one. I'm currently building the GR3 with a couple of Freightdog resin bits and some Eduard etch and really enjoying that one too! Mark.
  8. Along with the Il-40, I ordered this reissue of the AModel Yak-28PP last week (still to arrive) which contains a monograph on the subject: http://www.modelimex.com/1-72-yak-28pp-publication Searching for information on the publication revealed that it was a walkaround by V. Roman (http://www.aeroteca.com/continguts/productes.php?llengua=en&codi=11729)). How authoritative is it, and does it contain 1/72 scale plans? Thanks in advance for your replies.
  9. Just seen this and I can't wait! Apart from the 1/72 Lightning bonanza that 2014 seems it will be (for me definitely), i'm glad that this Beaufughter/Spit Mk.IX set is on the way. Not very often that I find justification to shell out an arm and a leg on a new Hasegawa boxing. Wonder which side of 50 squid this will be? http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10262265 Mart
  10. Hello, my attempt on small-scale armor: 1/72 Revell's Panzer III Ausf.M with side skirts and small details from Eduard Photo Etch. This is a vehicle of 6.Panzerdivision, in action at Kursk, 1943. Painted with colours from the Gunze/Mr.Hobby range. Decals from the box. Thanks for looking! Roman
  11. Here's a few pics of my completed Vampire; brush-painted and finished by hand...I'm quite pleased with how it has turned out. It's only my 4th build. I will take a few more photos of the Vampire tomorrow:
  12. I built these three side by side in January and then completely lost interest in them (and modelling) after the decalling stage. With the family away for Easter, I mustered the enthusiasm to get them finished. They are built from the box with the addition of tape seat straps and decals from Kits World and the spares box. Despite being an expensive kit, the P-38J was not an easy build - in fact it was one of the worst-fitting kits that I have built recently. Lightnings were not normally based at Boxted (Station 150), but this one was attached to the 61st FS and given HV codes and the red markings.Used on July 25th 1944 by Col. Hub Zemke, it made an emergency landing at Boxted after being severely damaged by flak. The stars and bars and stencils were from the kit decal sheet, and the codes were from the "Kits World Mustang Numbering/Lettering/Kill Markings Camouflage Finish" sheet. The aerial is Ez-Line attached using super glue and accelerator. The HobbyBoss kits, by comparison were cheap and delightful to build (apart from the poorly fitting canopy on the P-47D.) The rather plain Thunderbolt was Capt Robert Johnson's assigned machine in early 1944. He shot down three enemy fighters flying this aircraft. The codes were from the same Kits World sheet as the Lightning (and may be a bit small). The tail number of 276234 was created from the kit number of 276594. This involved reversing and inverting the number "5" to create the "2" and cutting off part of the loop of the "9" to create the "3". The P-51B is my salute to Lt. Col. James Howard of the 354th FG in early 1944. "Ding Hao!" is a Chinese expression of luck from Howard's time in the Far East flying with the AVG. The codes and tail number were from the the same Kits World sheet as the Lightning and Thunderbolt. The kill markings and the nose art are home-made decals. All the models were painted with Lifecolor Olive Drab and Neutral Gray. I randomly misted some lighter OD to achieve a patchy finish and then a light wash of Raw Umber that was streaked with cotton buds. Finally, exhaust staining was achieved with Mig Black Smoke pigments. I was hoping that finishing these three might motivate me to start my Airfix Tiger Moth, but I'm not sure that my modelling interest has yet been restored! Thanks for looking. You can see my other Boxted builds here.
  13. I have had a bit of a break from modelling, but thought It was time to have a go at another kit; I have two kits that I bought last year but haven't found time to start yet. This time, I will be building the De Havilland Vampire T.11 from Airfix: I have read good things about this kit, and seen some great results on forums so far. I'm looking forward to building it. The kit has 3 main sprues and a clear sprue: The instructions and decal sheet: As with my other builds, I will be doing things by hand, all brush-painted and finished manually. I will be making the kit in the Vampire Preservation Group colours; the yellow training scheme as on the box artwork. Such a great-looking aircraft, I hope I can see it someday at an airshow. OK, on with the build...first stage is the cockpit...
  14. My next entry for the group build is the 1/72 Yak-15 from Amodel, bought at the list price from Hannants (6.50 pounds): The instructions (not shown) proudly proclaim it to be the first Soviet aircraft with a turbojet. On to the sprues and decals: This will be the third Amodel kit I've built, and hopefully the third I finish. This is a warm-up for the Yak-28PP I have in the stash, and I also want to build a Yak-1 (Amodel) to examine the family resemblance. There are two schemes: one overall red, and one green-over-blue, which is the scheme I plan to do. As the photos show (or not!), there's a fair amount of cleaning, sanding and what I call therapeutic fettling to be done. My Scandinavian Spitfires will have to wait...
  15. This is the 1/72 Amodel Yakovlev Yak-15 'Feather', one of the first Soviet jet fighters, built for the 'Less Than a Tenner' group build. Full details on the build can be found on the thread I made for it on the GB subforum: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234957400-172-amodel-yak-15/ The kit and build are, well, 'typical early Amodel', with a lot of clean-up required, especially for the smaller parts. The canopy managed to react to Humbrol enamel thinner (a first for me) but was rescued by polishing and coats of Humbrol clear. The only tricky part of the build was getting the fuselage and exhuast nozzle to fit around the engine, which took a fair amount of filler. Keeping what I said about the build in mind, I also made a mess of building the wings and had to perform major surgery to get them to fit, at the cost of losing the dihedral. I finished the kit in green over light gray-blue, or Humbrol 80 over Humbrol 65/157-with-a-touch-of-Revell-32150. The pilot must have had a poor view over the nose. The decals went on fine but had a lot of carrier film that needed trimming. I finally did a panel line wash; its uneven appearance is due to both uneven surface details and my technique. I tried to add exhaust stains which did not end up too well. Just for fun, here are some side-by-side pictures of the Yak-3 and Yak-15: The latter's lineage is obvious, especially around the wings. There appear to be subtle changes in the Yak-15's empennage, though. I plan to build the Amodel early Yak-1, but not now. (refrains from bad jokes about the Yak-15 'ripping off' the Yak-3) Thanks for looking! Comments are welcome.
  16. Good afternoon, This week I took the opportunity to take some pictures of the finished model. I did it for the Training type GB. Initially, I wasn't sure about which version to do. After a while, I decided to do the Vampire Preservation Group aircraft, since it is a scheme I don't have in my collection. The HSS/Dayglo Orange will be used for the Gnat and Gannet. The kit is really nice. The panel lines may be a bit on the heavy side, but airfix is moving in the right direction, as they get smaller every model. The build itself was very straightforward, I just needed some force to bring the wing panel flush with the intake grill part. And I needed to cut away a small part of the lower wing, so that the gear legs can be attached at the end. The seats have been improved with some small bits and belts to make it look more realistic. Otherwise, no aftermarket parts used for this model. Even the decals are from the box. Colour is tamiya flat alu, yellow is xtracolour RAF trainer yellow, over a white primer. All in all, a very nice kit from Airfix! Thanks for watching! Alex
  17. Well - my second post to RFI...gulp. First off, some thoughts about the kit itself for anyone who hasn't built one... The level of detail straight from the box is superb, especially with the PE included. There's been a recent build by Vanja #66 that shows what you can do with this kit with imagination, skill and patience, but sadly for me I'm somewhat lacking in all 3 of those vital areas. The surfaces are extremely crisply moulded, and as this is my first kit moving away from the locating pins and trench-like panel lines of basic Airfix models, I was very very impressed by how restrained and 'in scale' it all looks. The build took quite a lot longer than I thought it would, but that's just the nature of these things. I've learned an awful lot from building this (now my 6th complete effort) including when and when not to use C/A, which I think is a valuable finding! Nothing proved exceptionally tricky, apart from the PE aerial under the fuselage which I broke off more times than I care to remember, and now looks rather mangled. As I'm still learning a huge amount from each build I'm just going to let that - and the vast number of additional flaws I've introduced myself - lie. I've been taken by the idea of doing a whitewash scheme for a while, and I'm sort of happy with how this has turned out. I tried the hairspray technique and found it, if done carefully, to actually be pretty easy and very effective. It is - however - where I nearly binned the whole thing, as it's a real lesson in restraint, stripping the paint off, trying again, going too heavy again, stripping the paint off...you get the idea. I reached a point with it where it's probably 70% like I hoped, and just wanted to get it done and on the shelf. Next time I whitewash I'll know a lot more where to go with it...hopefully with less head-scratching. Painted with Mr Colour, odds and sods of Tamiya and a little Xtracrylics, weathered with the airbrush and an oily pin-wash. Many thanks to Colin and SaintsPhil for the advice about Alclad Klear Kotes, which I've found to be stunningly good. Enough of the waffle:
  18. Just finished this conversion from the Italeri OH-58A Kiowa as the Helicharter Wales Jet Ranger I had a flight in about 5 or 6 years ago. Had to make the cabin window bigger, scratchbuild taller skids and the cabin seat, add aerials and make my own decals but the base kit is very nice and went together very easily. Comments welcome. Thanks for looking. Steve Edit - spelling
  19. Dear Fellow Modellers The old Academy kit is actually very nice other than the problem of attaching the separate tail unit. With this one the windshield is vacform after a disaster with the original. The 4th FG markings are from Xtradecal and the figures from CMK. Paint is from Gunze. I noticed on period photos that the cowling fastners typically had all their paint chipped off! The refueller is Academy altered with a resin tank from CMK Hope you like it? Andrew
  20. Here we have the latest off the bench. I actually finished this one last month but only now got some time to get it on BM. After the A10, also known as the longest build in the known universe, I fancied a quick build. Got this one done in about 8 weeks, which is quick for me... I bought this one from from local 'The Works' for about £1.50 as they were closing down, bargain!!! I intended to build it straight from the box but couldn't resist the urge to scratch build the slats and drop the ailerons. Other than that it's straight from the box. The kit is a delight to build only needing slight work to get the dihedral correct. Painted with Tamiya paints and Pro-modeller wash and some weathering pastels. The decals settled without issue. Anyway, on with the pictures hope you enjoy.
  21. Lightning F.6, 5 Sqn, RAF Binbrook 1970 Airfix, 1/72 I’ve always liked this photo of XS894 taking off from Binbrook in 1970, so I had to do the new Airfix kit as this one. This was the short period of time when the squadron marking on the fin included the red 5, but before the belly gun pack was fitted. This means the Airfix F.2A could be changed into this F.6 configuration just by extending the cable ducts, filling in the gun troughs and fitting some Red Tops from another kit (from the Xtrakit Sea Vixen maybe – can’t quite remember). Finish is Aclad Polished Aluminium over Halfords grey primer, which was polished with toothpaste, then a few coats of Klear applied by brush. Some panels are sprayed light grey, and some silver-grey. Panel lines are enhanced using a sharp pencil. Decals are from the kit (being careful to remove the German repeats from the stencils as the kit decals are for RAFG F.2As of course) except for the squadron marks which were Xtradecal and Model Alliance.
  22. Continuing in my Royal Australian Navy Fleet Air Arm theme, here's the latest progress on my A4-G Skyhawk. It's the Fujimi kit in 1/72 scale. I nearly didn't get this far as I was having a lot of doubt about my being able to do the camouflage. Some very helpful advice from fellow member Mumbles (Thank you Sam), who built the same scheme late last year, gave me the confidence to try out the blue tac sausages and tape method. In fact I used UHU white tac. I masked it free hand using an enlarged printout of the scheme as reference. Now if I did this again (and no doubt I will as I have a 1/48 TA-4G on the bench now) I'd keep the underside clean until after painting - no pylons, no undercarriage doors, etc. And here's the result! The greys are Gunze H61 IJN Grey (lighter) and H317 Grey. Lots more to do now but I'm now on the home stretch.
  23. Hello everyone, this is my first WIP here on Britmodeller, and a first serious build in years, so let's see how this goes.. :] I recently got myself an airbrush and had been trying it out on a discarded 1/32 Revell SBD-3 Dauntless just to be sure I have some idea about what I'm doing.. Also, I have little to none experience in washes and some other things, so this build will have a lots of first! Here goes.. Cockpit is assembled and painted a first coat.. After that the seat was added and small details painted.. I was interested to see how seatbelts will work so I made them out of masking tape..a little bit of detail is still needed, but that's good enough for now.. As I said, I have almost no experience with washes, so I wasn't sure how this will turn out..I started with the interior which will not be as visible as the cockpit.. I used black acrylic paint thinned with water and a soft brush to apply it.. Picture without wash is first, and the one with wash is second.. After that little struggle and a moment of 'Oh no what did I do' I used the new experience to carefully apply washes to cockpit.. I'm quite happy with how it turned out, probably because I was much more careful this time.. All in all, I think I'll use airbrush with slightly darker color next time for most of my interior shading.. You can also notice I didn't pay much attention to bomb bay when it comes to painting bombs and washes 'cause it almost won't be visible at all.. Oh, and the seatbelts still need a bit of work, though.. That's all for now, I'll post more as I progress, your thoughts and advices are welcome! :]
  24. Hi All, This is my first post on here after lurking for a long time. Here is my most recent kit i finished. This is the Tamiya A6M5 in 1/72. The kits is completely OTB. Painted with Alclad II and Vallejo Model Air paints. Used the kit decals for 652 Kokutai from the Junyo carrier. Hopefully I have done the kit justice as its just a well layed out kit. Enjoy Jason
  25. Hi everyone ! This my latest project .This is the Revell Model in 1/72 scale . It is built straight from the box . Rivets were added to make it look more realistic . For the painting , Alclad II Airframe Aluminium was used as a base colour and then various shades for the panels . Acrylics were used for the green antiglare surface and for the red sections . Decals are from Revell . Highly dilluted black colour was used for the weathering of the model and some artists oils as well
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