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  1. Here is my attempt at a build log of the Hobby Boss Voltaire. Have had lots of probs trying to upload photos but have just finished my new Flickr account so let's have a go (please excuse my lack of photographic ability!)😨 Hooray!😀 Just a test piece of hull assembled, now more pics to hopefully bring me up to date with my build... Hull reinforcements. ... Hull strakes, sed painters masking tape and 4 coats of plastic primer... In the mean time blast bags using pva. . Worked to a degree but lacked the detail I wanted, good for smaller scales but think I'll go back to sculpting them in future. Bits in preparation for painting Oooooh, colour... Hull painted with Tamiya acrylics Oops! Deck painted and dry fitted Ready for post shading, oil washes and highlighting And finally some various oil washes using mixtures of burnt umber, raw Sienna, yellow ochre and white. This is just the first stage of weathering so will keep you posted as I go along. Many thanks for looking!😊
  2. Hi everybody. As 2018 draws towards a close, I thought I'd give you the 'heads-up' of the next sub build, a 1/350 Typhoon Class SSBN of the Russian Navy from the HobbyBoss boxing. I generally build Royal Navy subs but a fellow club member had this kit sitting in his loft, knowing that he will never build it, donated it moi to see that it gets built. The box. Hull halves. Sprue A. Sprue B (their are four of these!) Decal sheets and some PE. Size comparison between the current Russian Typhoon and RN Vanguard SSBN's....need a bigger bench! As mentioned in the title, this will be a waterline job and will be underway, so no hatches open. This will rid me of quite a lot of the kit and hopefully I use it as a good subject to try out some weathering (maybe) and more water. The tiling on the Typhoon looks a bit OTT and I'll more than likely 'knock' them back. I have heard something of a dimensional issue but we'll see if that is so. Stuart
  3. Good time of day. I want to present a model of the most famous "pocket battleship" Germany Admiral Graf Spee in scale 1/350 of the Academy. Set contrary to expectations is quite oak, but the geometry is better than the alternative from Trumpeter. Sets used: - A set of photo-etched parts from Eduard - Deck from Artwox - Barrels 28, 15 and 10,5cm from the Master model - The barrels of the 3,7 and 2.0cm from the Aber set for destroyers type 1936В - Thread for rigging from AMO MIG - Decal from Begemot The model represents rather a collective image of the ship at the beginning of the war. Modifications: - All portholes are drilled out and after colouring are filled in with liquid glass. - 20mm guns taken from the couple sets of destroyers and complemented by etched and metall barrels. - The deadwood shafts and their brackets are made anew. The shafts of the nails under the brass, of suitable diameter, mounting brackets from sheet plastic. Replaced the screws, the screws from the Japanese cruisers from the kit from Aoshima battleship Kongo. - Jack-staff and a ensign staff made of wire. - Stands-taken from the academic Bismarck, processed and painted with gold Valejo, and the top is covered with a thick layer of glossy varnish Akan. - Sharpened the bow near the waterline, because of the box he is more suited to the tanker. - Windlass-a combination of sprues, etching and parts of the windlass set. - Deck-plastic deck turned over and lowered below that would be "wooden" deck sat flush with the Board. Looks good. But, the more I am on such experiments probably will not be resolved. As a whole on Assembly it is possible to tell that it was necessary to adjust practically all details. On the right side of the armored car missed one slot, it must be added yourself. Photo came out not simple at all. The model is not small and the current box just did not fit, so I had in some places not to remove the white background. Sorry for my english😇 25 photo in to spoiler
  4. Having recently built a couple of 1/350 scale U-Boats by Hobbyboss I thought it’d be fun to build the worlds largest submarine to the same scale as a comparison between WWII technology and Cold War technology. It’s hard to believe that there’s only about 40 years between the Type VIIU-Boat and the Typhoon, but the difference in size and destructive technology is worlds apart. The kit went together very easily, but the decals were very delicate and caused some stress in their application, however they do look very good when in place and are worth the effort. There are many moveable parts and a couple of build options within the kit along with 20 missiles, missile tubes and hatches which can open and close should the builder want to display them all. I didn’t fancy all that repetitive work so I only chose to display five of ‘em. The white line around the hull, prop ducts and across the upper rear hull was masked and airbrushed as no decal was supplied for this very prominent feature. The photos don’t show the variation in colours on the hull, or the washes used to weather the hull. Perhaps I’ve been a little conservative with my application, but it can be seen with the naked eye.....honest guv. Anyhoo, without further ado here is the Russian monster:
  5. Hello Everybody, here's my little side project while the Tirpitz is on hold And what you get in the box is typical Trumpeter, many small parts and what surprised me the bridge is molded in clear plastic Next, a little size comparison: Arleigh-Burke-Class Udaloy-Class (and just for you Brits: Type 23 Frigatte) I gotta say this WIP will not be step by step like my Tirpitz build... But anyway, here are some pictures: fitment of the bulbous bow is far from good... needed a lot of putty and sanding... Also some problems on the bridge parts... the upgrade set includes nice doors a lot of sinkmarks had to be removed... now fast forward! this is my color reverence: decks painted and construction of the forward mast: And here's where I am at the moment: colors are: Main deck - Mix of Tamiya Linoleum deck brown (XF79), Hull red (XF9) and black (XF1) Upper decks - Citadel Skag brown (thinned with tamiya thinner and paint retarder) Lower hull - Tamiya Hull Red Upper hull and superstructure - Tamiya Light gray (XF66) over black Water pass - Tamiya flat white (XF2) Thanks for looking any comments welcome 😉 Konrad
  6. Hi guys. Here I present my second sub of 2018, a 1/350 Resolution Class SSBN of the Royal Navy by MikroMir. Like most submarine kits in this scale; they have few parts, a few decals and if you're lucky some PE. A simple build that needed only a little filler. RN subs are rather bland... black, so here it is painted satin black overall with a matt black for 'non-slip' deck. I tend to think that the fin looks too cluttered if all the masts are fitted, so I fit what I consider the 'surfaced' arrangement of search periscope, radar and W/T mast. To add a bit of scale, a couple of Tamiya figures were added. Thanks for looking. Stuart
  7. Hello, fellow Britmodellers. This is my first committed plunge into the wonderful world of shipmodelling (I usually restrict myself to things with wings), something for which I assign the blame to @Stew Dapple and @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies after seeing their stand and having a chat to Stew at Scale Model World 2018. Although not at all a result of said chat, after my visit to Telford, the modelling mojo fled and has only just returned. I imagine it went somewhere sunny and warm; no idea why it's come back to dank and dark Britain (I speak both meteorologically and metaphorically, of course). I've been mooching about, looking at my half-finished kits and realising that they're all at or very close to some stage that I fear, like painting white intakes on a Phantom. Anyway, yesterday I dropped into a local charity shop with my boss, who loves to pick up utter tat from there. I often find the odd book, or perhaps a game for my son, but yesterday there were two kits sitting on a shelf: Trumpeter's 1/350 Roma and Hobbyboss' 1/350 Dunkerque. Fate? Maybe. They both appeared to be entirely complete; certainly the parts in box were all sealed, so the only real risk was that a bag had gone missing at some point. Last night I checked the Dunkerque box to see if it was complete (it is), and then thought I'd test the fit of the big bits (they fit really very well), and then I started following the instructions. So, looks like I'm committed, and damn the Phantom intakes! However, I really have very little idea of what I'm doing, so please please please let me know what I'm getting wrong! I'm not going outside the box on this one, so it's just the kit plastic and the included etch. Unless I find the guns look awful and plump for the Master Model replacements, I suppose. @Shar2 did a very nice review of the kit here, which includes lots of photos of the parts that are far better than any photos I could take, so rather than posting pictures of the box and plastic, I would ask you to pop over to his review instead. I think my starting point will be to paint the hull and the deck, which I hope to begin this weekend? In the meantime, I shall post this photo of what is, to my eyes, a very lovely battlewagon: To those more knowledgeable than me (that's anyone reading this), I ask: what are the three parallel lines running horizontally above the boot? Are these the strakes to which Shar2 refers in his review? Here's a shot of the lady's backside, with one of my favourite bridges thrown in for good measure: Thanks for looking in!
  8. Here I present my interpretation of K.22, a K Class submarine of the Royal Navy and was nicknamed the 'Kalamity' Class due to its persistent problems that plagued its life. It was designed as a 'fleet' submarine and could exceed 24 knots due to its sharp bow and oil-fired boilers but took an age to dive. K22, ex k13 that sank in Gareloch with the loss of nearly half her crew, was reclaimed and renumbered as K.22 but the Royal Navy are a superstitious bunch and K.13 never left K.22. Here is MicroMir's offering of a British K Class in 1/350, build here: When it was time to dive, the funnels were lowered into their recesses and at the same time, large hatches swung over to seal off the boilers, not always a success. Stuart
  9. Good day people. As the Astute draws to an end, I thought I'd give an opening salvo of the next build. The next submarine subject was selected by my better half because it has more 'sticky up bits' than the other ones, so here it is. Extract borrowed from Wiki: The K-class submarines were a class of steam-propelled submarines of the Royal Navy designed in 1913. Intended as large, fast vessels with the endurance and speed to operate with the battle fleet, they gained notoriety and the nickname of "Kalamity class" for being involved in many accidents. Of the 18 built, none was lost through enemy action, but six sank, with significant loss of life, in accidents. The obligatory preamble: Boxart showing 'sticky up bits' which I think means masts, funnels and guns...looks interesting. Sprue shot. Some PE and stickers for three subs. K15 sank at her mooring in Portsmouth. K16 sank in Gareloch after colliding with K-12. K-22 was originally K-13 which sank but salvaged. Instruction sheet. Hopefully I will start this after SMW Stuart
  10. Hello all! Thought I'd share my build of the Voltaire, just love these old battlewagons!😉 Am already some way down the road with this build and have been encouraged to share (thanks Michael!). Have taken some piccies as I went but am no great photographer! Anyhoo, here we go... http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/zoopher53/media/Mobile Uploads/2019-01/PSX_20190123_083732_zpsno90tdsr.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Hull strengthening strakes made of evergreen strip. Not sure if photo will upload so this is a test😨 Awww nuts......
  11. I am working at building the HMS Wryneck W class WAIR destroyer from the 1/350 HMAS Vendetta kit. I just need to find the conversion kits any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Here is my recently completed Astute Class Submarine using the 1/350 HobbyBoss kit. Pretty straight forward kit that's almost 'toy like'. Went together with no real problems and painted using mainly Halfords Satin Black from a can, kit decals were used and are I based on the earliest boats when I trial. Mounted on usual base and a few figures from Tamiya were added for scale. WiP: Stuart
  13. Starting another build now I have a clear slipway after Abercrombie is done. HMS Eskimo a tribal class destroyer built on the Tyne now this kit has a few issues so i will attempt to correct them. I will be using the WEM Tribal PE set and also the ships boat set from WEM and the North Star 4 barrel pom-pom but first I have to re-shape the shear on the Bow and re-locate the hawser pipes for the anchors As you can see the bow shear on the kit is flat this needs to be raised by 3mm back to about the breakwater It should look like this as with the Atlantic Models HMS Scorpion kit but why do all this work So I can build up my skills with the PE and all the other stuff I do not want to make a mess of an expensive resin kit so this is another practice build and the plastic kit was only £20 So will start to pack out the rise in the shear with various size plastic rods then fill in the gaps and hawser holes Wish me luck beefy
  14. Next on the building mat, a 1/350 Astuste Class Submarine using the HobbyBoss kit. The Astute Class is the current class of 'Hunter-killer' of the RN, replacing the older Trafalgar Class. Box art Hull halves. The upper hull comes complete the fin and aft planes fitted. Traditionally the fin would have been 2 parts and the after planes 4. Sprue shot that looks like parts for the top of the fin, masts, rudder,propulsion and foreplanes. Some photo-etch. Some 'blurb', instructions and painting call-out. Looks like a simple build but I've never built a HobbyBoss kit, so that might come back to bite me on the 'arras'. Stuart
  15. Well, here we go with another WiP, this time it'll be a submarine. Now, don't expect a long epic build as they don't happen with modern submarine kits. The WiPs subject is the Vanguard Class SSBN in 1/350 by Bronco. The Vanguard class is currently in service with the Royal Navy after replacing the dated Polaris Class and its replacement, the Dreadnought, is already on its way. This is a big box, it's only that size due the length of the hull. Box contents: hull halves, one sprue, PE, base and instruction booklet. Eight page instruction booklet. Hull halves. The sprue. Like most submarine kits, even more so with modern types, has few parts to contend with, so this shouldn't take long. It will be interesting to the size comparison between the Vanguard and Polaris SSBNs. Stuart
  16. I have already trailed this in my Dido build, but I ought really to reveal what I am up to. Dido - now at the painting stage, so progressing nicely - has been my first full ship build for a good while, and I have seriously enjoyed it... plus the modular nature of building ships seems to suit my weird weekdays only, away from home current set-up. I am painting Dido with enamels and (in due course) some oils, which will require plenty of drying time... so I’ve decided on the next project. Dido was my first ship: my second was the County Class DLG HMS Norfolk. I joined her in July 1981, straight out of university. Only a few weeks later she was sold to Chile, and her programme no longer really worked for a young officer who needed lots of sea experience to get his tickets, so in November 81 I was re-appointed to Fearless as she emerged from refit in the Tyne. 6 months later I found myself in San Carlos Water... but that’ll be a story for a future build. Norfolk, therefore, is the Prat part of this build (her Chilean name was Almirante Prat). She will be modelled looking something like this (a photo of her sailing from Pompey during my time on board, September 1981 en route to Amsterdam). However, I actually have two Atlantic Models 1/350 DLGs. The second is a commission for one of my oldest friends; he has a significant birthday next year. We didn’t actually meet until 1982, but he too served in a DLG around this time. While I was in San Carlos in Fearless, my mate was out on the gun line in HMS Glamorgan. We all know what happened next - indeed Mark was on the bridge when she was hit. Happily both Glamorgan and he survived. So in parallel with a relatively shiny Norfolk, I will be building a distinctly battered sister; my plan is to try to reproduce this scene, which is Glamorgan entering Pompey with very clear battle scars in July 1982. The wrecked hangar area will require some ingenuity, but I have some good reference shots & I’m sure it’s doable. Here, just because it’s the law at the start of any build, is one of the two kits: This won’t be quick, and I haven’t finished Dido yet... but that’s what is next on the hoist. Crisp
  17. The good news is that today - the announcement was made that HMS Exeter Item No.: 05350 in Scale: 1:350 was released - so in a couple of months it should be on the shelves in the West ( I believe the new kits get released first in the far East , for a few months ) note confirmation is visible of this fact on the Official Trumpeter of China website kind regards
  18. I'm working on converting Airfix's 1/350 Trafalgar to a Swiftsure class. I thought I had read somewhere that all the Swiftsures used the shrouded pump jet propulsor, does anyone know if that is correct? If not, do we know which boat used which propulsion method?
  19. Trumpeter 1/350 HMS Dreadnought in a scratchbuilt Portsmouth dry dock number 15. PE by WEM including the cage aerial cages, 12pdr's, searchlights and figures by Northstar, resin planks and crates from l'Arsenal. Main gun barrels from Master Barrels. Extra cutters missing from the kit from the Shapeways. The dockside cranes are also 3d printed from my own design. Rigging a mixture of Caenis and Uschi line. Sign by Paul Boyle at http://www.pbmodelmaking.co.uk/ Build WIP here; Thanks to everyone who followed the WIP and provided help and advice along the way, particularly Dave Swindell and Kris - can't believe you got your's finished before me Kris Pics are a mixture of phone and DLSR, outdoors and then in cos it started raining Few detailed views; Guys mopping the deck watched by a PO; These chaps are in trouble for something; Whilst the lucky 3 leaving the ship with bags are going on leave; And these poor buggers are loading stores onto the ship, watched by the dockyard workers; Cranes doing craney stuff; An officer being ferried over by cutter; And the Captain surveying his empire; Hope you like it, any comments gratefully received. Cheers Nick I've taken a few more pics, the idea being to use a more realistic angle and try and date some to look like period photo's; Cheers Nick
  20. My second lighted model. Bit more room to add lights in this model as it's a lot bigger than the Revell kit.
  21. Dutch O-16 Submarine Pacific Crossroads 1:350 History The Inter-War Dutch submarine fleet could be split into two categories: O, (Onderzeeboot) boats, designed for the home waters and K, (Kolonien), boats, for deployment in the vast East Indies colonies. The main differences between the two types were size and range, which was greater for the K boats due to the operational area. The O-16 was the first submarine which combined the range, size and speed of the colonial boats with the handling and armament requirements of the boats designed for the European waters. The keel for the O-16 was laid down in December 1933 at K.M. De Schelde shipyard in Vlissingen. She was launched on January 27th 1936 and commissioned on October 26th. In early 1937 O-16 sailed to the United States, visiting Norfolk and Washington D.C. with stops at Bermuda, the Azors and Lisbon. In 1939 she was attached to the Dutch East Indies submarine fleet. When war was declared on Japan on December 8th 1941, O-16 was already on patrol in the South China Sea and commenced attacking Japanese forces that were invading northeast Malaya. On December 10th she damaged a troopship. Two days later O-16 attacked several troopships in the Bay of Soengei Patani on the East coast of Malaya, sinking three in shallow water and damaging a fourth. With only one torpedo left she sailed for Singapore. On December 15th O-16 struck a mine exiting the Gulf of Siam during her voyage to Singapore. She was nearly broken in half and 41 men perished. Only one crew member, Boatswain Cornelis De Wolf, survived. In October 1995, the wreck of O-16 was found and three years later was filmed and photographed. The Model This kit is the first submarine from Pacific Crossroads and it was a very pleasant surprise when it arrived in the post, as I wasn’t expecting it, so thanks for the this Boris. The kit comes in a very sturdy cardboard box with a picture of the O-16 moored alongside a Far Eastern jetty in a very dramatic light and a War Cross medal with Nederlandsch 1941-42 Bar in the right hand corner. On opening the box the modeller is presented with a very well protected hull form, wrapped in bubble wrap, a clear plastic box with all the other resin parts carefully protected, a sheet of etched brass, (although like the other kits from Pacific Crossroads it still looks like copper), a small poly bag containing a small decal sheet and the turned barrel of the main gun. The instructions come with a short history section, reproduced above, some period photographs and colour plan view of the starboard side and top. The instructions themselves are in a pictorial form of coloured drawings. They are very clear and well annotated, showing which parts go where. The modeller will have to scratch build the radio and periscope masts, but there are clear plans for these at the rear of the instructions. Whilst the protection of the main, single piece hull is very good some of the bollards had broken off, but these can easily be replaced with suitably sized rod or even aftermarket parts. The detail moulded into the hull is very nice, but there are some scratches on the sides that will need to be sanded down a bit. The wooden slat decking appears a little over scale and would benefit from a light sanding to reduce the depth a bit, this goes for the deck piece that covers the external torpedo tubes too. The hull isn’t connected to heavily to the moulding block so once removed it shouldn’t be too difficult to clean up ready for the build. The rest of the parts comprising of the single piece tower, propellers, complete with shafts, external torpedo tubes, aft pair of dive planes, rudder, and ships guns, two AA and the single main are all very nicely moulded and will need only a minimal clean up after removal from the casting blocks. As stated above the main gun comes with option of using a turned metal barrel. This will require the resin barrel to be removed and a small hole drilled into the gun to fit. Etch The single etched sheet provides the rest of the parts required to complete the build and included the various railings for the hull and tower, two cranes, one fitted forward and one aft, vertical ladders and two “accommodation ladders”. There are also two aerial spreaders/supports, the bow cable/net cutter, watertight doors for the tower, aft AA gun gratings, two plates that cover the external, trainable torpedo mounting, which can be posed either open or closed and the two foreplanes. Two quite large plaques are provided for attaching to whatever base you decide to mount the completed model on. The build is quite simple, but I can imagine a little fiddly, but one everything is removed from the casting blocks and cleaned up it shouldn’t cause too many problems for the more experienced modeller. I would assemble the masts first in preparation for fitting at the appropriate point. Once these are done the tower can be fitted to the hull, followed by the trainable torpedo tubes, which are fitted into the well on the foredeck and cover by the separate deck piece. The propellers/shafts are then fitted, along with the aft diveplanes, which come complete with prop guards, and rudder. The ships guns are then fitted to their appropriate positions before the etched parts are fitted. The railings are particularly fine and along with the aerial supports great care should be taken to fit them in their appropriate positions without damaging them. The three periscopes and main mast can then be fitted before painting begins. Of course this is only one way of building the model and the modeller should choose what’s best for them and the way they tackle it. Decals The small sheet contains two Dutch flags, which I presume are fitted either side of the tower, although some research will be need to determine the correct placement, and two very small, (I missed them completely, until Boris pointed them out), white identification codes. Make sure you don't lose them when dipping the sheet in water. Conclusion For the first submarine release Pacific Crossroads have chosen an unusual and exciting example. Even the colour scheme will make it stand out from the crowd in a display. Whilst every effort has obviously been made to ensure the parts are well protected there are bound to be some breakages as evidenced on the review sample, but there is nothing that can’t be scratch built to replace these small fragile parts. If you like submarines, you’ll love this and it really should be included in any collection. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  22. Good afternoon. I present to you my build of Combrig's re-boxing of U-Boat Laboratorium's UB I type coastal submarine in 1/350, painted as UB-2 (though the plaque says UB 1). From the kit's instruction sheet: "UB-2 entered service on February 18, 1915 and was attached to training Kurland flotilla. An experienced sailor oberleutnant-zur-see Werner Furbringer, future high-scoring U-boot commander and 'Blue Max' winner, became her first captain. "Having successfully completed training UB-2 passed to Flandria to a first line unit. Sincethe beginning of May 1915 up to the end of December 1916 she completed 40 combat cruises and sunk 11 vessels. In January 1917 the submarine transferred to a training flotilla and served there until the end of the war." My first resin ship kit, and was very simple to build; she's barely 3 inches long! The hull was a single piece with the other parts being the rubber assembly, rigging, railing and various other parts. And I lost the propeller. I scratch-built the masts from brass rod and some of the rigging wires with nickel wire. I used Mig Ammo Medium Grey and Citadel Abaddon Black for the paint scheme, and a Copic liner for the face. Weathering was done with an oil paint dot streaking method and Mig Ammo's Rust Oilbrusher. Enjoy!
  23. USS Gambier Bay is best known for her action during the Battle off Samar as a part of Task Force 77.4.3. On the morning of October 25th 1944, Vice Admiral Kurita's center force, consisting of 4 battleships (including Yamato), 8 Heavy cruisers and 11 destroyers broke through the San Bernardino Straight and were in a position to threaten the American landings at Leyte Gulf. All that stood between Kurita and the landing force was Taffy 3; 6 escort carriers, 3 destroyers and 4 destroyer escorts. In what is possibly the greatest naval mismatch in the history of warfare, Taffy 3 managed to halt, then turn back Kurita's ships despite their overwhelming superiority. Almost all of taffy 3's ships suffered damage, with 2 destroyers, 1 destroyer escort and 2 escort carriers sunk, this included Gambier Bay. It's thought she was sunk by a combination of 14 and 18 inch main battery gunfire from Yamato and Kongo and was the only carrier sunk by surface gunfire in the Pacific. The kit looks quite nice and I've wanted an escort carrier for some time, but the price was always very high here, around 200 dollars. However last year I happened upon a second hand one for less than half price and well I had to have it! As you can see I've made a bit of a start on it today, fit thus far seems pretty nice. I will add a little photo etch to it to spruce things up.
  24. Hey Guys, This is the old(ish) Zvezda offering boxed under Flagman, which also have their Hotel Class K-19. The kit is not necessarily basic, but its one one sprue and most of the parts go into the various masts on the sail. The kit is curiously designed in the way that the two hull halves go together to leave a gap on the top, where the decks are later fitted. Even more curiously is how they give you a flat deck piece thats meant to bend down over the bow. Furthermore the conning tower was left separate in two halves. Two towers were provided so that you could either produce the Project. 627 or the Project. 627A which was a later (and more common) variant with a different sonar set up including a German-esque chin sonar bulb. The rest of the kit was simple enough but I must say the fit was poor. The bow hydroplanes and the various stern planes locating pins were oversized when compared to the holes they were designed for. and where the hydroplanes aft of the propellers were, they seemed to be too far forward and had to be adjusted to allow the fitting of the propeller. The model was painted with colourcoats (ex-White Ensign) Hull red and NATO Black from Tamiya. Then using oil paints I streaked from all of the major inlet valves for both the main and trim ballast tanks finishing with a coat of Xtracolour Matte Varnish. And here she is with some of her contemporaries as well as successors As you may have/haven't seen my photo set up is pretty rough so hopefully you'll be able to at least see the outline! Thanks for looking Sam
  25. To all pre-dreadnought fans, a German pre-dreadnought battleship is going to become available in 1/350! Trumpeter listed SMS Schleswig-Holstein, the last of the German pre-dreads, in the 1/350 section of their 2018/19 catalogue!
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