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  1. ... or Happiness is Vectored Thrust! Firstly, I am a fan of the Harrier but mostly the early variants before the airframe was “afflicted” by the lumps and bumps associated with the development of an aircraft. As you may have guessed by my screen name, I’m particularly fond of the prototype aircraft, the P.1127 and P.1127/2, otherwise known as (the/a) Kestrel. To my eye, these are the definitive forms of this aircraft concept/configuration, with their aluminium finish and long pitot tubes sticking out the front, ready for the jousting tournament. I’ve recently returned to the hobby after 20 years or so: the aircraft I always fancied building all those years ago was an Airfix 1/24 scale Harrier but it was never to be. I’ve now decided that I’m going to give converting the Harrier into a P.1127 a go and I thought I’d try posting a WiP to try and keep myself out of metaphorical doldrums. The question was which P.1127 configuration to model? As you may or may not know (or care) there were many configuration states of P.1127 although predominantly they can be split into two groups. The first six aircraft had registration numbers starting with XP (831, 836, 972, 976 980 & 984). The second group with the designation P.1127/2, also given the name Kestrel by the Hawker marketing department had registration numbers starting with XS (688 - 696). This is based on my limited research into the subject, anyway. The reason for being so picky with the registration numbers is because there was evidently quite a bit of variation between each aircraft, especially in the first group of six but also extending into the second group. Relevant differences include (but are not limited to): the wing ¼ chord sweep (the trailing edge was unswept for the first five aircraft but was swept back on the sixth) wing leading edge extensions (saw-tooth extensions were added during development to refine handing) fairing of wing tip into landing gear fairing fuselage length (the Kestrel was extended by 9 inches compared to the P.1127) tailplane area, span & dihedral sweep angle of air intakes (reduced from 35 degrees on the first aircraft to a more moderate 20 degrees on later aircraft… less so on the Harrier upon EIS) various intake lip profiles etc. Of course all the aircraft above are significantly different to the Harrier (GR1) that is the subject of Airfix’s 1/24 scale kit. The aircraft that I’ve decided to model (try to model) is XP984, a special aircraft for me. XP 984 was the last of the original P.1127 aircraft but was designated as the prototype for the forthcoming Kestrels (P.1127/2). This means that the aircraft originally had the Kestrel wing with the swept trailing edge, the 20 degree sweep on the air intakes and an intermediate tailplane configuration. To my eyes the aircraft in its original configuration looks “the most right” out of all the P.1127 configurations: a nice swept trailing edge with no leading edge extensions to spoil things, a nice sweep on the intakes with no bulbous “elephant ears” ruining the lines but maintaining the aforementioned pitot tube at the nose. (The aircraft, now at Brooklands, has been retro-fitted with a Harrier wing and tailplane so looks less good, IMHO. I’m grateful it’s now inside however). The reason XP984 is special to me is because I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Ralph Hooper (conceptual design and Chief Engineer of the P.1127 programme) at Brooklands and discussing the aircraft with him for an hour or so. I’d like to build this aircraft to help remember such a wonderful experience. As for model itself (an eBay “bargain”), progress has been made but is intermittent due to family and work commitments. The progress so far includes: Fin: removing air intake from root. I’m unsure whether a reduction in height is required… research is ongoing Tailplane: modified to the correct profile but I only have one of them L a shortcoming of the eBay “bargain”. Airfix themselves couldn’t help… any other ideas? Making one will be simple enough but I’d rather modify! Wing: leading edge extensions removed and tips re-profiled. The model will be displayed in the hover so the flaps need cutting out and lowering but this I’m saving for another day Fuselage: the biggest job was re-profiling the air intakes the kit’s Harrier intakes are wrong for the P.1127 so they were cut out and new ones built up from plastic-card and car body filler (I love that stuff) at the required 20 degree sweep for XP984. This also required making the fairings for the cold nozzles: these have intakes in their leading edges but I haven’t got there yet. I’ve also boxed out the landing gear bays to attempt some detailing in there… we shall see how successful that is. My biggest unknown with the fuselage is the length. The Kestrel fuselage is 9 inches longer that the P.1127 but is the same as the Harrier, I think. I’m modelling the Kestrel prototype so I don’t know if XP984 had a P.1127 or Kestrel/Harrier length fuselage. Any ideas? There’s clearly a lot of work left to do, especially on the fuselage (and especially if it wants shortening by 9 scale inches!). The other big thing is the fairing over the wing but I need to wait for the fuselage to be joined first, I think. As I said, progress will be intermittent but I’m hoping the pressure of the forum will eventually get me over the line. The finished model will not be worthy of any special mention like so many of the fantastic efforts displayed on this forum: I shall be ecstatic if it is recognisable as a Kestrel (prototype). I’ve tried to add some pictures below… fingers crossed. Anyway, thanks for looking, P. (Sorry for the quality of the photos, clearly they were taken on my phone!) The bits so far... Fuselage showing modified intakes and cold nozzle fairings The air intake structure aft of the cockpit is a key omission of the kit, perhaps not surprising given its age. Plasticard has been used to rough-in some of the structure but more work is required to tidy it up and fair it in. I shall invest in some Milliput, which I have never used but am led to understand that it might be useful here than my beloved Isopon. Yours truly and the Chief Engineer himself, in front of the aircraft in question.
  2. With the Charger finished, it's time for me to jump straight into the next project. This one is going to be a much longer project and I expect it will take most of the summer to complete. As usual for me, the kit is going to be pretty much straight out of the box, and is Tamiya's custom Nissan Syline GT-R from 1970. First impressions of the kit are very good, and appear to justify the excellent things I've heard about it. However, as this is going to be my first attempt at using photoetch parts, there is plenty of opportunity for this one to go all pear-shaped. In truth, work on this started back in the autumn when I set about trying to get the body ready. Fortunately, there were no noticeable sink marks on it, and only small, well-placed mould-lines which took only a little removal. This is the body straight out of the box: Needless to say, after a little clean-up, it got a coat of white primer (obvious choice of primer colour since I'm doing this as the white version): After that, it got a coat of Halfords Nissan Arctic White. Not really sure why I bothered though, as the colour is near enough identical to the primer. To think white is usually a nightmare to match, and then I go and pick something which is a perfect colour match to the undercoat🙄 But, for completeness here's the body as it was before the winter weather stopped progress: As of today, it has had the decals added (all two of them) to the main body and just wants its clear coat now. Can't say I'm looking forward to polishing it though with those creases - they look like prime territory for burning through the paint. The other sprayed parts have had similar treatment, with the bonnet and spoilers having received their clear coats last weekend. The chassis is body coloured on this one, and it has been bugging me all winter that it just looked too bright in this white finish. So today I've had a go at going over it with a dark grey wash, then rubbing off the wash with an old cloth before it dried (I presume this is the correct way of doing it?) For a first attempt, I'm reasonably satisfied with the outcome, and at the very least it's dulled it down a bit: With all that done, it was time to make a start on the instructions. Not major progress, just the engine block/gearbox assembled and some paint on that, the sump and the engine cover. But at least it's a start... That's where I am at the moment, but that engine cover still needs a bit of detailing prior to fitting onto the engine.
  3. Hi all, Here's the kit I'm going to build to represent the year of my birth... The Stratos was first introduced in 1974 but 1975 was the first full year it competed in. The car I'm building is the "Red Chardonnet" one on the box art, that won the Tour de Corse Rallye (Corsia Rally) in 1975. Chardonnet was the name of the privateer team and the car was driven by Bernard Darniche with co-driver Alain Mahé. I believe Chardonnet also had a second, blue car that year as well. Hopefully it won't be a difficult build in terms of large decals / complicated colour schemes.
  4. After all the time spent on the Skyline, I feel it's time for a shorter project. To that end, I figured it was time to restore another model from my youth. In truth, I don't feel I did too bad first time around on this given I was about 12 or 13, didn't paint it, and had nothing to do the decals with other than fingers, water and a duster. However, 30 years have taken their toll on it with the decals having suffered a little over not to mention that it has got covered in dust and shows the effect of 10 years on a shelf next to a field - it got a fresh coat of dust every harvest time! This is what it looked like a couple of months ago. So it's time to bring it back to life, courtesy of some Shunko decals and three sets of instructions - one in Japanese downloaded from 1999.co in Japan, one average quality scan from one I found on sale on eBay and a scan of a set of instructions for the Airfix model of this car courtesy of @theplasticsurgeon from this very site. Between those three, I'm reasonably confident I can get the painting about right too. First job was to take it to pieces and get those decals off. Oddly, it was much easier to get the car to pieces (probably because it was stuck together using UHU rather than solvent cement) than it was to get all the decals off. But I got there in the end, and while I always suspected that the plastic had yellowed, removing the decals confirmed it. What did surprise me though was that the coloured decals appear to have stopped the plastic yellowing while the white areas hadn't. Over the past few weeks, I've been getting the paint on this. First up was the primer, which at least returned it to plain white and covered the yellowing. Next up was the paint. Not all that smooth, but as it's a racing car I'm not going for a perfect finish on this one. Starting on it properly today, the first job was to add a wash to the panel lines and the bonnet grille. Generally not too much of a problem apart from that the wash started creeping both ways along the join between the door and the side skirt. I ended up scribing the bottom of the doors and trying to stop the wash going backwards with a blue-tack dam - not 100% successful and the wash is a bit heavy at the bottom of the doors but it was shaping up to be far worse so I'll settle for it. The chassis is also in the shot - very simple as this is one of Tamiya's earliest 1/24 models (serial number suggests the third one they did) and it's also motorised which eliminates space for an engine. There'll be a bit of painting around the windows, but I'm aiming to get that decalling done early so as to get it clearcoated before temperatures drop for winter.
  5. Time to unveil my second car build since coming back to the hobby which was completed last August. It was actually the first car I bought, but the Mustang looked easier so I started with that one. When you open up the box and look at the kit, you can see it's date-stamped 1982 and unfortunately it is showing it's age a bit. The first thing to jump out was that whereas the modern sprues tend to have some sort of struture to them, on this one the part numbers just jumped apparently at random between sprues (ok, I know that's still the case on some of the newer Revell kits, but not to this extent) and the runners often had a habit of just sort of petering out; at first I thought some of them had broken in two before realising this was just how it was meant to be. I also feel that the model is maybe a bit too wide for the length, but that is a lot less noticeable now it's built and it could just be my imagination. So, starting at the beginning of the build, here's the engine bay. Not a great start to the build as the two halves of the engine block don't quite align properly - I did sand down and fill the underside which is visible, but probably not by enough. I chickened out of mixing the colour for the engine block, and instead used some Prussian Blue from a reconnaisance Spitfire covered in clearcoat. I like the finish (quite 50's mechanical there), but the colour isn't blue enough now I've looked into things deeper and it does bug me a little bit. Not nearly as much as the fact that I didn't put the Blue Flame decal in the right place - what was I thinking?! On this project, I also stripped chrome for the first time to allow better painting of the carbs and float chambers. IMG_6170 on Flickr Moving inside, and this is the part of the build I'm most happy with and really pleased with how it turned out in here. The Molotow pen definitely earned it's stripes in here The photo doesn't really show it, but the matt and silk reds complement each other quite nicely. IMG_6163 on Flickr Onto the outside, coming up are the four quarter views. IMG_6178 on Flickr Both front angles show the issues with the windscreen, but the one below probably shows it best. It's the last piece you fit on the car, and a real sting in the tail. Just when you think you've wrestled the car into shape, you're presented with a clear piece of plastic with only a vague resemblance to the shape of the chromed plastic it's meant to sit in. Clearfix didn't hold it, but it did leave fingerprints on the screen. Fortunately, I managed to get them removed, but still had to fit the glass in the frame. Even superglue struggled to hold it in place, and in the end I superglued all the way around the frame, pushed in the screen and hoped it would stay. It did, and having messed up the chrome in the process I went over the whole lot with the magic chrome pen and covered up the glue where it showed. But the windscreen isn't as clear as it could be - good job it's a convertible! IMG_6177 on Flickr When I first opened the box, the back of the body had all sorts of sink marks that shouldn't have been there - it almost looked as though it had been rear-ended at some stage. So I got the putty out and got it something like the right shape. There were also quite a few mould lines on the body, but fortunately they were mostly in easy to remove places. IMG_6175 on Flickr Almost round it, and the problem with this corner is entirely my own doing in that I managed to snap the rear bumper, but fortunately it's pretty close to being back in the right place. None of the bumpers on this have any positive placement, but they do have a place where they feel right when you fit them. Just got to be very careful you don't get glue everywhere trying to find that place. IMG_6173 on Flickr The front view is just because I like the 'face' of the original Corvette. I did consider painting on the headlight wiring, but decided to go with the kit decals and they don't look too bad. Almost got them lined up properly too... Just a shame that the headlights don't sit as snugly into their holes as I would like. IMG_6179 on Flickr Home straight now, and here it is with the roof up, just sitting loose and not glued on. If it was to be glued on, it would sit slightly further back, but as it's loose I needed to use the windscreen frame to hold it up. IMG_6181 on Flickr And finally a gratuitous sunny pic IMG_6365 on Flickr Hope this isn't too long, apologies if it is. I'm definitely glad that I didn't so this kit first on returning as I did need to put into practice quite a few of the lessons I learned with the Mustang. The kit does show it's age, but it's not terrible (windscreen excepted) and does build up into a nice-looking model. I don't know if it's the white colour, or the chrome, or just the shape, but it alwasy catches my eye when I look at it. It might have been hard work at times, but it gives a sense of achievement when you finish it. Worth a build if you like this version of the Corvette, just needs a bit more work than the newer kits.
  6. Hi guys, here is another car project and I really do have my work cut out with this one, it’s been in my stash for about 5 years, dug it out last week and took a peek at it, good points are that it has a very nice accurate looking body and all the fenders and details on the outside of the car look good, however inside was very poor, no engine bay, and worst of all very inaccurate seats and dash. Not surprising really as the 66 T-Bird had very elaborate seat and dash detailing, so what to do? Well, looking at YouTube videos I found that the convertible versions looked much better, so I decided to bite the bullet and cut the roof off! Now this committed me to scratch building and modifying the kit interior details, the main objective was to give a fairly good representation of a top down 66 T-Bird that was ready to cruise or had just been fully restored to show winning condition. Here are some photos of a restored 66 T-Bird that I am trying to copy in model form. I decided the body would be painted in blue metallic with white leather and blue interior, with lashings of chrome details. So I hope to update you with progress soon, now where’s that hacksaw?
  7. Hi all, here are the final pictures of the Mistress of the dark's cool ride. For such an old kit I was surprised how well it went together, once I had got the Leopard skin effect sorted out, I relaxed and really enjoyed getting this kit built. The purple flecks in the paintwork are not easy to photograph as it's very subtle, but really adds to the macabre theme I think. It's not a paint but a salt crystal sized powder that is added to the lacquer and sprayed over a black base, never seen the product for sale as I have to admit I have had the tub on my shelf for 30 years! As for the Leopard skin effect, well it was bought off eBay in small sheets; it’s decals for ladies finger nail art. I bought enough sheets to cut the shapes out and they bedded down nicely with some Tamiya X20A thinner, as they are a little thicker than normal decals, the random pattern helped conceal the joins, once all dry I gave the decals a flat coat of clear and a wash with some AK enamel engine grease to pick out some details in the seats. I hope you all enjoy the pictures.
  8. Hi all, this is going to be my Halloween season build for this year, should be a lot of fun. I don't intend on using the leopard skin decals they are way too naff for my liking, and I won't be painting them on, not sure what I will come up with yet, but I have an idea! As for the paint job, well I intended on painting the car in a metal flake black, with purple flecks in the lacquer. This is a 60's kit (re boxed in the 80's) and it sure does show its age, makes you appreciate how good modern kits are, but I guess it's all modelling at the end of the day; this kit was bought out as a replica of the actual convertible that Elvira drove in the movie. Among the creepy extras the front grille has a ghoulish spider web. Stay tuned for the next update.
  9. Thought I'd share some pictures of my Krupp Titan build's status quo. Wiring and piping, decals and a few things more were scratched. The engine is a fast CA-glue-fit (later on I'll explain why) and will be completely refitted later. The chassis was extended twice, about 2 inch total. One example:
  10. Hi, everyone. I have a question about the form and style of the ventral tanks used on the F6F Hellcat. On Sprue Q of the big 1/24 Scale Hellcat there are 2 ventral tanks. Only one is mentioned in the instructions, this uses parts Q14 and Q15 and has the joint seam top and bottom and an aerofoil section between tank and fuselage, as detailed in Step 292. The other is parts Q12, Q13: it has no such mounting section, just 6 legs and a fuel pipe: there is no mention of the second one in the instructions! Why are these parts included? could Airfix be planning a later, possibly night fighter version? Anyone have any ideas?
  11. Has anyone had a go at this model and is it recommended for a good interesting build?
  12. Hi, One of my friends asked me about how to paint 1/24 scale female figures such as those made by Master Box... http://www.mbltd.info/figures/1-24-scale/spaceport/24052.html She was curious about how to paint lace on chlotes, fishnet stockings etc in such small scale. As I never have built or painted such figures I didn't have any clues concerning painting lace etc. Is there any experiences or advise to get? I remember those Airfix figure kits of British Queens with fantastic dresses and lots of lace. Was it possible to paint those figures according to instructions/boxpictures? Cheers / André
  13. As promised in the WIP-section, some pictures of the completed Diablo. A few build-pictures can be found there as well as a little more info. Wiper deliberately left off as it seemed massively overscaled and wouldn't fit correctly. Couldn't be bothered, to be honest. Maybe someday I'll do or find a better one. Probably not. First some shots from all sides, trying to catch the model as well as the aggressive pose. Next some Moneyshots for your preferenced car magazine 😉 I love that reflection from the flash on the badges edge 🙂 I love those rims. Kit chrome stripped. Completely painted in Vallejo Model Air Aluminium, black wash all over, outer ring and Lugnuts Molotov chrome. Badge is Kit decal and fitted perfectly. I hope you like it. Not perfect, but fun and quick to build. Pictures were taken in its recent display place in our bookshelf. Quite a critical colour combination to take good pictures of.
  14. Hi Folks, Quick question, I hope you may be able to help. I'm in the final stages of building the Airfix 1/24 typhoon. I opined the package that contains the canopy parts only to find that there is a crack on the front edge. Reading on a few forums I see that this can be a common fault. The kit is over a year old and I can't get any help from where it was purchased. I contacted Airfix but they informed me that part was not available. I also found a replacement after market part but I can't get a reply from the stockist. Any ideas??? Thanks for your help Simon
  15. Here I post sompe pictures of a Lamborghini Diablo VT by Revell. Built completely OOB as a little inbetween-Project to keep the flame burning. It went together quite easily which is why I almost forgot to take some pictures. What you see here is all done just before mating the shell to the undercarriage. Mostly brush painted, a little airbrush work on the cognac. Colours are almost exclusively Vallejo Game Color and metallics Vallejo Model Air. All kit chrome was stripped and reapplied with molotov chrome where necessary. The Bodywork was sprayed enamel white from a rattlecan. The color is RAL9010 pure white which is just a tad off white. I almost always ignore the kits color suggestions completely and so did here. My references were collected from a ad on hemmings.com, which is no longer active. The pictures where downloaded in time, if anyone needs them for reference, let me know. Window surrounds painted slowly with a brush. The clear parts did not fit very well and needed pressure and 2k glue to stay put. Inside of the shell was completely painted black to look right through the openings. Engine and suspension bits were painted in a gunmetal metallic, then washed with a dark ink, probably smokey ink or pure black in places. then heavily drybrushed gunmetal, edges picked again in a bright silver. Some bolts picked out in silver. Exhaust pipes were done with a little bronce mixed into the gunmetal. From the upside very little is seen of the engine. The covers where painted in a ceramic white which I saw in a few pictures of diablo SVTs. I liked this very much and thought it would be great looking with the red decals. Even less will be seen through the opened hood. There's really next to no room around the engine. The cast block was painted black with some edges picked out in silver according to some pictures I found online. I think there's no real car with this combination out there, but it is not too far from reality. The interieur was done in a cognac brown according to the pictures I found online. The decal for the middle console is originally one part but needed to be seperated to fit nicely. The seats were rubbed down a bit with my fingers to give them a more used look. I appologize for the poor picture quality - I used my old camera but did not realize I had set the ISO still way too high as I took pictures in the dark before. By now the car is finished to a reasonable standard for a quick project and sits in my bookshelf. Some more pictures will probably follow.
  16. Hey everyone As I'm waiting for some bits to arrive for my Airfix 1/72 Lancaster I was having a mooch around the man cave and hiding in plain site were two, yes two Airfix 1/24 Typhoon kits with after market and three yes three part built engines! I originally started the build way back in 2014 with grand ideas of super-detailing the kit into within an inch of its life, well I wasn't a master modeler back then and I sure ain't one now so I'm going to set my sights a little lower and just aim to complete the kit. Why I have two kits has been gotten lost in the midst of time (I probably had a mad Ebay moment whilst I was still prone to a tipple) and as to the three part butchered motors I can only guess that in my attempts at super detailing (two of the motors are missing their spark plug ignition leads and coffman starter). So my plan is to salvage what I can from the three motors and complete one OOB and from the other two and create a stand alone model just of the engine and radiator (and try my hand at super detailing to replace to missing leads etc). The Typhoon I want to recreate is Babs VIII in 1/24, I built the rather splendid 1/48 Hasegawa kit back in 2017 and finished it as Babs and I just really like the look of the Typhoon in this particular scheme.. ..So I have the Kit.. ..and the after market... ..now all I need is the patience to finish the darn thing! Here are a couple of pictures of what I have work with with regards to the engine / cockpit frame work, the engine I'll leave out for now, until I have an exceptable work in progress to show.. ..I should be able to spend a little time on her later and hopefully the masking set that I'm waiting on for my Lanc should be here today (with any luck) Cheers Iain
  17. Hi All, Another 'new' one. This was bought a very long time ago, and started a long time ago, and now resurrected in an attempt to get it done as well. So, the box art: I'm not sure if it ever raced outside Japan, but these single seat sports cars are fun to build. I have quite a few in my stash. And what with Tamiya releasing the Gazoo Toyota hybrid, and re-releasing the Mazda 767, well I feel my bank balance lightening as I type.... This one had a 4 cylinder turbo engine, and that's where I have got up to. Assembling the engine: I decided long ago to wire up the ignition, and this is the result. Don't look too closely at the distributor, trying to fit 8 itty-bitty teeny-weeny wires to something about 4mm across was, shall we say, challenging... It's a four cylinder engine, but with two plugs per cylinder. As I don't seem to get on with CA glue very will, I tried using a high-tack PVA glue. It sets a bit slower, but doesn't prefer (on the whole) to stick to me... Thanks for looking. More to come soon, Cheers, Alan.
  18. Well after completing my first build, (a 1/72 Mk1 Hurricane) its time to give its big brother and my xmas pressie a good crack. I have definitely caught the modelling bug and im looking forward to putting some of the techniques learned to good use as well as trying out some more! Please forgive any boring photo's that you have all seen a million times before, just kind of want to see the whole journey from start to finish (Humour me im a newbie lol) Here goes nothing! The storey so far (In my head i have the opening bars of the Star Wars theme tune playing )- Firstly the sprue shots Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on FlickrUntitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr So according to the instructions the first thing to tackle was the merlin! so a bit of dry fitting and a load of flash removal commenced (Think there could be alot of this required in this kit) Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Not sure if i missed something at this point but was slightly confused regarding the pin that holds the prop in the engine, The instructions say to place the pin inside and then but the top of the engine on meaning the prop would then be permanently in place before painting as the pin would just push out if adding the prop later? Anyway i solved this by glueing some old sprue in behind the pin so it cant drop out when adding the prop later. (Go on somebody tell me what i missed :-)) Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr After a spot of priming i sprayed the engine black as per instructions except for the cam covers which i thought would look better aluminium (Have seen pics of both so i thought its not gonna look to out of place!) Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Then picked out some details Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Painted up the engine mounting frames Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Next my first attempt at dry brushing (Think i was a bit heavy handed in places) & glued all the other engine parts on. Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Untitled by andrewbudd2, on Flickr Overall pretty pleased with it, think i want to put a bit of a wash on the cam covers to make them look a bit more oily but other than that all good. That's were i am folks, thanks for looking and any comments/tips/observations gratefully recieved Cheers Andy
  19. You al know how it is. Once in a while, it doesn't matter that the stash is filled to the brim, that there's no more room on the shelf of doom, and the modelling table is filled with 1,2,3 - many ongoing subjects, sometimes you just need to clear everything, and take the latest and greatest purchase and go with the flow. In my case this happened with the enormous Typhoon. I've never built anything in larger scale than 1/48 before, and there was nothing in the stash of that sort either, but it didn't matter. I needed it, badly. It wasn't possible to resist a view like: Trying to battle the AMS didn't work either, which is why I've got the Airscale instrument decals and some Eduard goodies Let's make a start at it then! what could possible go wrong? Well, since my previous attempts at building Typhoons has been less than successful, my track record might not be the best, and its a BIG model! No matter, I'm filled with cheerful optimism, and neither the dreaded crack in the hood (got a new clear sprue from Airfix last week, which was as good as one can hope), or a rather nasty short-shot: will stop me this time. Everything is possible! Lets cut off a few pieces, clean them up! Rear spar is a little bent: Some heavy persuasion with brute force and glue should sort that out later on. I hope :-) Also decided to drill out the holes in the rear form(imf=er, just because I could. Edit: ARRGH! It's post preview one should click on, nothing else! Story continues: Well, all parts were cleaned up an glued together, and after a quick coat of Vallejo black primer, it looks quite ok actually. Quite a lot of parts was left out of the initial assembly, but also primed Citadel chainmail was sprayed next and I hoped that all ejector pin marks on the engine firewall is hidden later on... On to some other fun stuff. The floor boards were drybrushed and received a couple of washes: Main instrument panel was painted too, and prepared for a long session of small small decals from Airscale. A really large sinkmark in the middle of the compass was a cause for concern: but since it will all be painted anywway it was filled and sanded flat. After half of the decals had been added it started to look nice! Finally, all was installed in the cockpit And there we are! I've started the most challenging build ever, but I'm having so much fun! Luckily, I have 3 weeks of christmas vacation coming up and hopefully I'll be able to sneak of to the modelling den more than once, so even with my usual geological modelling pace continues, some progress is expected! //Christer
  20. So I have had this kit for quite a few years now, and after getting a few kits under my belt I thought I would make a start. I ordered a Photo Etch kit, and just used a few pieces from it as I am new to photo etch parts. Paint wise I used a Ford Automotive Purple straight out of a rattle can.
  21. Hello fellow modellers! Here is my interpretation of the Trabant Universal. Chassis is nearly finished, pictures of the body will follow. It is a little bit beaten up and dirty, but the engine is still in good shape Thanks for having a look! Dieter
  22. Hi All, This is the first of five projects I have just started. I am titling it 'Promise made, promise fulfilled' This is the enormous Revell AEC Routemaster bus. Revell just call it 'London Bus'. Trying to avoid licensing issues maybe? I don't know why, since the box top picture has 'Routemaster' on it. One initial observation: It is BIG. On the box, it says 38.1 cm, that's about 15 ½ inches in old money. Anyway, pictures: The box of bits: It's rammed full of parts. The sprues on some of the parts, notably the floor-pan, was attached to massive sprues, about 6mm in diameter! Probably, to stop the floor-pan from warping. I recently re-discovered a fantastic solvent cement. Cellulose thinners. It smells a bit, is rather hot, but does weld styrene together well. It's biggest advantage is that it's cheap! The engine starts here. Revell offers the original Leyland engine or a new Scania engine. Now, I have read somewhere (maybe here) that the Scania engine was not fitted, but a Cummins. However, I have opted for the Scania engine, wrong or not. After a bit more fettling, we get here: The fit of the parts so far is very good indeed. I am impressed. Next is priming and painting the chassis. Thanks for looking. Alan.
  23. This one feels like it's been going on a long while but I've finally got it finished. Actually, it was only 5 months, but as I tend to do one build at a time that has been 5 months of a grey car where Revell have done a much better job than the real thing warrants. If you want to read the build thread, the link is below. The design of the kit is excellent, probably the best designed kit I've done so far (including Tamiya kits) with the only minor issues being a misplaced tab on one of the side trims and the washer bottle perhaps could have done with a more obvious placement. But that really is it for design issues. The moulding wasn't quite up there though with some flash and mould lines to clean up. And I'm not convinced that the instructions really give you the best order to built it in - certainly towards the end I pretty much ignored the sequencing as I couldn't see how it would work following Revell's instructions. The build itself isn't perfect, but I think it does give a pretty good indicator of where my level is at the moment. But, enough waffle. On with the pictures (sorry, but there are quite a few). First up, as the roof doesn't have to be cemented in place I left it loose so I can show the interior. The kit also comes with a very nice representation of the two-stroke engine, including the fuel tank mounted right on top of it! Here's a couple of shots of it with bonnet open and roof off: And finally, at the risk of being a bit repetitive here's a few shots from all angles of the car as it is displayed. Hope you like it. All constructive comments (good and bad!) are welcome.
  24. Completed this one end of last year, so it's my most recent completed build (I build slowly, even though I build as the kits come). The kits goes together pretty well, apart from a few minor bits which I'll mention as I go through the pics. Hard to believe the kit is over 30 years old - it's much better than the Corvette I did before it. I'll start with the engine bay. Sadly, this is the only time it will be seen as there were 'negative clearance' issues with the lid so I had to superglue it down to stop it popping up half a millimetre or so. I'm not sure whether that is down to an issue with the kit or with my building skills. Certainly it was also a tight fit getting the body over those exhaust pipes too. IMG_6328 A couple of pics of the interior, because this is where a lot of the careful painting is needed with those seats. The seats and that red in the engine bay were my first attempts at mixing paint so I'm quite pleased with how that came out. Unfortunately, in getting the body on, I managed to dislodge the right-hand-side glass, so had to stick it back on using a paintbrush handle through the windscreen hole as that goes on later. All things considered, I can live with that small gap near the A-pillar (it only shows up on the camera anyway). IMG_6329 This pic below also shows the line around the rear spoiler where it joins the boot (bonnet?) lid. I was in two minds as to whether to join the spoiler and fill the join before painting and risk having poor paint coverage in the gap, or to fit the spoiler after painting and have that line between the two which doesn't exist on the original. If it had been silver as most of these seem to be then I would probably have gone for the first option, but as I'd chosen a dark colour I figured the join wouldn't show as much. But if anyone has any tips for this sort of thing, I'd be glad to hear from you. IMG_6342 Finally, a set of pics from around the car. The original plan was to use Revell's matt anthracite, but I ended up with a can with almost no internal pressure so it just spattered on the side. I had to sand back the paint on the side of the car and on the (front!) bonnet, then reprime. With the colder weather approaching, I decided to change to Halfords paint for the colour coat for time reasons which has given me the effect I was after. IMG_6335 IMG_6336 IMG_6339 IMG_6340 The view from the front. The Tamiya instructions call for a silver surround to the headlights, and show that on the box so I followed the instructions. But, they should really be body colour so that is a little bit annoying. Not the end of the world though, just wish I'd checked first. IMG_6344 And the view from the back with the engine cover fitted. So now, the engine is only visible from underneath or through the grille. IMG_6345 And finally, this is it when the sun gets on it. IMG_6366 I bought the kit because it was a car I like, and as an added bonus it's also cheap so it wouldn't matter if I messed it up. Looking inside, I was expecting a quick build as there didn't seem to be too many parts, but the interior painting slowed me up a bit. However, in the end, I'm happy as it represents another step forward for my modelling skills. Hope you all like it too.
  25. It seems as though there is a lot of Dodge Chargers around this section of the board, and as luck would have it that's what my next project is However, this one isn't quite the same as most of the others around. Generally, when you say Dodge Charger, most people would think of the classic muscle car similar to the General Lee. A few may well think of the modern version, but either way you're probably thinking of a big V8. What you're probably not thinking of is a 2.2 litre 4-cylinder hatchback from 1982, but Monogram's version of that particular version of the Dodge Charger was my very first 1/24 car model built way back when I was about 9 or so, I seem to remember buying it because it was a) bright yellow, and b) cheap because even back in the mid-80's it was obviously not seen as a desirable car and so was reduced to the sort of level pocket money could afford. Being a snap kit, it was relatively easy to build, and for my parents had the added advantage that I wasn't going to get glue all over the kitchen table. Fast forward 30 years, and it's showing signs of age and being built by a child. The decals were definitely not on straight (where they hadn't disintegrated on me), the chrome was degraded in places, particularly the front left wheel, at least one part (the gear lever) is missing, it doesn't sit straight and when I took it apart I remembered that was because the front subframe and wheel are held on my blue-tak. at some later date (I guess when I was early to mid teens) I decided being American it should get some chrome bumpers and mirrors not appreciating that it had virtuallyno chrome on at all. And the interior almost looks like there is carpet in there with 30 years worth of dust. Basically, I've decided it's time to try to get this looking shelf-worthy and do it justice. But first, this is the starting point: So over summer I set about getting the body and chassis sprayed while the weather was ok. First job was to dip it in the IPA to get rid of that silver paint, which unfortunately put paid to the decals too - the bonnet one at least would have been nice to keep but it just wasn't to be. Then it was on with the primer, which didn't completely block out the yellow of the plastic but as the car will end up yellow that didn't matter too much. (Just realised you can see when I did the various stages by the S600 and bits of Trabant in the background of all of these photos). After that, it was on with the yellow paint which looked a lot better than yellow plastic did. The paint is Halfords Ford Signal Yellow. This one is my first two-tone paint job, so a couple of weeks after that the car was masked up and ready for the black. Initially I airbrushed this one but after a bit of operator error (basically leaving too long between coats and blocking the nozzle) I finished off with the car with a rattle can meaning the black is a bit thicker than I would have liked. There was a little overspray but nothing too unmanageable and it was cleared up without too much bother, Since then, I've redecalled it (decals were from Rays Kit Decals in the Netherlands) and given it a clear coat, but didn't grab a shot of that stage. It's part way though being panel washed, so the next body pic will have to wait. And then it was onto the engine, which was all just yellow apart from the chromed engine top end and exhaust manufold. That's been dechromed, and the engine taken apart. When I first built it, I hadn't filed any of the bits where it came off the sprue so these needed tidying up. So far, the remains of the sprue attachment have been remarkably tidy, especially as I think they were removed using kitchen scissors. I think I must have had parental help! With the washing going on, I have done minimal work on rebuilding the engine, but did get the block stuck together (the sump is on now too) ready for painting. One of the tabs holding the two sides of the engine together had snapped, and the other didn't go in as far as it needed to, so both were trimmed down prior to gluing the two halves together (hence the clamps). Hopefully tomorrow I can show off a completed body and main part of the engine.
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