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Found 11 results

  1. Renault RE30B Alain Prost, British Grand Prix, Brands Hatch, 18th July 1982 Tamiya kit bought in 1985 and spent about 32 years in the attic waiting to be built. Hence very yellowed decals which were replaced with those from Indycals. I nearly sent the decals back as the number 15s were printed in Magenta, not Red. But cleverly they turn the right shade of red when applied over the yellow paint!
  2. It's been a while since I built my last Falke, and that one ended up in Gulf (ish) racing colours, so here we go again with another. For those that don't know, here is a link to a boxtop picture of the Hasegawa falke. I do have one in the stash, but I prefer scratchbuilding. https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/2/6/0/101260-27767-98-pristine.jpg I usually change the basic design of the original and this case will be no exception. BTW, These can be built using a 1/48th P-38 and a 1/32nd car. I bought a built 1/32nd Revell P-38 off the bay some time ago. I think it had been stuck together with candle wax as it was partially disassembled when it arrived. Which is actually a good thing, given what I was going to do to it. I think it only cost me about a tenner. Modelling on a budget. love it. This is the 1/25th shell of a Chevy Beretta. An American car from around 1990. I think I built it about 20 years ago. It will form the main body of the Falke. The original used a small Japanese Sports car model which is long out of production. (I think). Whatever, I wanted a wider cabin than usual. Mostly, all you need of the P-38 is the booms and bits of the wings. Cut off the back of the boom, then cut the wings to keep the Turbo Supercharger housings. These housings will be filled with greeblies, while the booms will be turned on their sides. Having cut off the wings we are left with gaps in the sides. I've used off cuts of wood and balsa to partially fill the gaps. I then mixed up some Milliput and made worms to close them off better. Glue on the wing offcut and squish down the Milliput. More Milliput (and spit) was used to fill and further smooth out the gap. Remember, this will be the top or bottom surface. Once dry I can file/sand it all down and use Humbrol filler to finish off. I'm not bothered about losing surface detail at this stage. Those red intakes you can see will be faired in with a slope of card and filler. The wheel well doors will be refitted and any gaps filled. I probably won't get back to this before the weekend so the filler will have plenty of time to dry. Thanks for looking. Comments and Bourbon biscuits are always welcome. As are suggestions for a final paint scheme. Pete
  3. And, after finishing the Kreiger Vampyre, I have returned! My Vampyre build, in case anyone missed it, was based on a gluebomb Hornisse 'Battlefield taxi' which was incredibly kindly donated by @SafetyDad. So all praise to him again! The Armoured fighting suits are a form of powered exo armour to protect the troops in this war, 800 years in the future. There are (I think) at least three variations of this basic design, and I'm fairly sure that this is the Heinrich version. At Southwell 2018, I met a very nice man who sold me a complete AFS and a Heinrich box of bits and paperwork. Luckily the instructions were still in there. Which was nice. Imagine the front of a 1/48th Hughes 500 on legs, yep, you're there. First job was to take the figure to pieces. Not too difficult. It had suffered from heavy mortaring by tube glue. A twist of a scalpel blade in the joints and most of it popped apart. Yes, that is a huge Panzerfaust top right. The elbows bent the wrong way, so this stage was essential. Also, those ankle shields should be on the outside. So it looks like the legs will have to be dismantled too. Someone wasn't concentrating. The windows had a build up of tube glue around them and some on them. The scarring on the screen is obvious. I gave them a rub down with Micromesh and then cheapo T cut abrasive put a shine on them. I had some clear packaging material and had a go at making a new window just by rubbing the edge as I held it onto a side window. It almost worked, but I refer the (smoked effect) originals. They are very close in size to the holes, so there's not a lot of area for the glue. Microstrip might work here. A close up of the legs. Those shields have got be moved! They're pretty useless on the inside. The main body parts. The scarring from the glue is obvious. But what's life without a challenge? I need to dismantle the legs and see if anything is missing now that I've found the instructions. That's your lot for this episode. And you are very welcome to give me your thoughts on this one. I'm running out of room for the big stuff in the manshed, so these smaller models may become more common! Thanks, Pete
  4. Hi All, I'm on a roll at the moment. I have really found my enthusiasm again. This is one that I have had for about 35 years, or there abouts. It's been part built for a seriously long time. I have built a few 1/20th Tamiya F1 cars over the years and have found them a challenging but rewarding build. This one has been a bit more challenging the some of them ... The box top: A truly bizarre but quite beautiful car. This was in the days of classic F1 cars, I think. The modern stuff looks a bit anodyne in comparison. I had built the engine and transmission a long time ago, and that's where it stood for quite a while. At some point in the past, the transmission fell off the engine, and disrupted the rear suspension somewhat. Trying to re-assemble that caused a number of head-aches. The springs for example, were attached to the cylinder heads and the bottom suspension arms. I attached the gear-box back on the engine, then attempted to thread the rear springs into the gap. This proved to be a problem, and caused me a bit of a head-ache, but in the end, I managed to get them fitted, Them as I was manipulating the engine about, the stacks kept falling off! The big problem however, was when I tried to attach the engine to the chassis. There is a small screw that taps into the engine block, holding the engine and chassis together, but also at the bottom was a small 'clip' that you had to put the block over and push down to lock it in place. Every time I tried to do that, one or more of the stacks would come off … again and again and again …. again. Eventually, I removed the clip bit of the bottom pin, and araldited the block to the chassis and screwed in the screw on the top. After about 24 hours, the block doesn't seems to be going anywhere, and I can call that bit done. So, this is where we have got: The back looks a bit skew. I'm blaming the camera. I think that the link rot from the anti-roll bar has come adrift yet again. Again, as you can see, one of the stacks has fallen off! I have fixed that. So, on to the body. I had primed that a while back, and have got the initial colour on: I have cut the paint back a bit to remove any inevitable imperfections and it's ready for its second coat of Tyrrell blue. The ever brilliant Zero paints. More to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  5. Lotus Ford 49 Jim Clark, Dutch Grand Prix, 1967 Ebbro 1/20th basically straight from the box. Strangely, the steering track rod needed lengthening to prevent a very toed-in look. Also added ignition wiring and fuel injector pipes on the engine. I toyed with the idea of masking and spraying the yellow stripe but chickened out - and I'm glad I did as the kit decal worked far better than I expected. With huge doses of Microsol it even curled around inside that nose cone. And yes, I know, the chromed wheels are OTT but hey - they look good like that! Chris
  6. Lotus 72C Oulton Park Gold Cup, 22nd August 1970 This is the Ebbro kit straight from the box apart from the addition of Tamiya seat belts and Tabu decals (how could anybody finish this kit without 'Gold Leaf Team Lotus' writ large on the sides?) I was 19 years old in 1970, and hitch-hiked to Oulton Park with a friend to see this event. It was a significant meeting on 3 counts - 1. that it was the first win for a Surtees F1 car, 2. that it was the first race of the first ever Tyrrell, and 3. (although no one knew this at the time of course) it was Jochen Rindt's last race as he was killed at Monza two weeks later. Chris
  7. Ferrari 312T3 British Grand Prix, Brands Hatch, July 1978 The 1978 British Grand Prix was, for me, one of those exciting camping weekends that I still remember well. We were there at Clearways and saw that opportunistic move made by Carlos Reutemann to overtake Lauda and win the race. These are a couple of photos taken during practice: The model is from the Tamiya 1/20th kit. I bought the kit around 1980 and has been in a number of attics waiting to be built since then! The decals had yellowed desperately over the years so they were replaced by a set from Indycals which worked very well. Decals were provided for the white areas but I wondered how on earth they could be made go around that much curvature, so I painted the white using Halfords Appliance White straight from the can over Tamiya white primer. It needed some intricate masking before spraying the Tamiya gloss red. The kit wings were chrome finished which looked slightly ridiculous so I sanded this off and used AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminium to finish them. The wheels are also chromed but I managed to tone them down using some dark grey wash and a coat of Humbrol satin varnish. Anyway, here is the final product. It looks the part except for the usual issue with these kits which is the difficulty in getting the bodywork to fit snuggly. Chris
  8. Having Santa bring me a couple of F1 kits for Christmas I picked what seemed the easiest to start with having not built an F1 for 30+ years Built OOB and sprayed with Tamiya rattle cans as I had them in stock. A lot of learning along the way such as foiling the engine bay. I'm fairly happy with the finish after a bit of polishing, but think I might try Zero paints and 2K next time. The only thing I'm disappointed with is the fit of the top of the body to the chassis, gluing it would cure it, but why hide the detail, but apparently it's a known issue Here's a link to the build and a few pics of the finished build. Any tips or critisism welcome
  9. Been a lucky boy this Christmas and ended up with a few Tamiya 1/20 F1 kits Haven't built an F1 car for years, so I thought I'd start with the oldest and hopefully easiest (plus I've got red paint ) Nigel Mansells Ferrari F189 Typical Tamiya quality, but loads of pre painting. Got engine assembled tonight with just a bit of paint touching up to do tomorrow to get rid of gluey finger marks
  10. Just started the new Tamiya Ferrari FXX K kit with Photo Etched and Carbon Fibre Decals released at the same time as the kit. The kit is just stunning, Tamiya keep improving on perfection, a lot of parts in the box The car itself is a $3 million track car, 100 made and sold by invitation, based on the La Ferrari road car , there are some good Youtube videos of the car running at Spa. I bought the kit from Frome Model Centre, fully recommed. The paints i will use will be Zero paints from Hiroboy and Tamiya paints . Started by building the engine, a V12 Hybrid and chassis, Getting all the body work ready for painting in the process of removing the pin ejector marks on the underside of the engine cover Waiting for some wiring to arrive from Hiroboy before i an do anymore to the engine bay.
  11. So I managed to finish three models over xmas.......jeepers. One I had already started and finished 95% OOB was this 1/20 scale Mashinenkrieger Mobile Suit Melusine. Pretty much a test bed for using chalk pigments on rounded surfaces. Forgive the face work, not my finest skill. Apologies for temporarily losing the images from photobucket.
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