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  1. Here's my Airfix 1/144 737-200, built for the Airfix group build. Pretty straightforward build, I used the cockpit part from the Daco kit to improve the shape of the forward fuselage, and decals from 26. This one really brings back memories of spotting at Manchester in the 80s, and a trip to Naples in a Britannia 737 in 1984 when we were hit by lightning on the way back (as you might expect, there was a loud bang and a flash!). And a shot of the two 737s I've built this year to compare old and new - 737-200 and 737-800:
  2. Just finished this in the excellent Airfix group build. It's the ancient Airfix 1/144 Caravelle III, with F-RSIN engines and SAS decals from 26.
  3. Hi All! Finally finished another build, this unusual and tiny model: Let me know what you think of my finished model, it's not a bad kit on the whole, just the decal issues were annoying really. Here are some pictures too: Thanks for taking the time to check out my build
  4. Here are some shots of my recent Hurricane conversion. The base kit was a clear-moulded 1/144 Mk I from Sweet with lengthened nose, and scratchbuilt prop, spinner, canopy, cannons and later style exhausts etc etc. Painting is with Mr Color lacquers and weathered with oils and Pergamino .5mm pale grey pencil. Hope you like it!
  5. Here we have Revell's 1/144 Lockheed Sea Shadow, dating from 1996. A bit of an unusual build, due to its shape, with a little care the kit goes together well, with a nicely detailed interior which can be glimpsed through the glazing and the open doors. The only problem with the assembly is you are left with two gaps between the underside and the outriggers on the inside, so a lot of filler is required. Hairystick painted in humbrol enamels, with a final satin cote. The decals were a problem, the set with the model were not in the best of condition, luckily i thought i found a spare set on evilbay. Being aware of ghosting especially on black i soaked the first in decal fix, the water;line decals broke and had to be put on in bits, fortunately i tried the inside of the out riggers first, when dry massive ghosting. Checking my research pics the waterline markings were removed later in the project, so i decided to go with the minimal decals i could, not to draw attention to the ghosting. So here she is for your perusal. All the best Chris
  6. I recently picked up a boxed set container a Resistance U-Wing as well as a TIE Striker, both of which debuted in Rogue One. I have been itching to build some TIE fighters after seeing some of great builds on the forum. While I'm waiting for delivery of my TIE fighters and TIE Advanced models from Japan, I decided to try out some colors on the TIE Striker. After seeing the meticulous masking required for the TIE solar panels, I decided to try out a shortcut. So I pulled out an old flatbed scanner and scanned one of the wings at 600dpi, then pulled it into Affinity Designer and drew shapes to mask the panels. I then exported the mask as an SVG file and imported it into the software which drives my Silhouette Cameo 3 cutter. I decided to use transfer tape as the mask material since it has a low-tack surface. I applied a base coat of Badger Stynylrez Black then sprayed a light coat of Vallejo Metal Steel (thanks for the tip to @AndyRM101) . Below you can see the masks applied. The fit was close to perfect although the central solar panel section was every so slightly narrower on the bottom side than the top. For the TIE hull color, there seemed to be significant variance between Episode IV (which featured light gray TIEs) and later episodes which had a pronounced bluish hue. At one point I came across explanations related to advances in blue screen technology which allowed ILM to use non-gray colors for the later movies. I liked the gray/blue tone and this seemed to be what was used in Rogue One so I followed instructions on a thread on theRPF which recommended a 1:1 mix of Tamiya XF-2 Flat White and XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 for the gray/blue color. I probably should have applied the Vallejo Steel a little more liberally, but it still has a subtle metallic sheen that reflects the light nicely. The Bandai models are designed to not require glue, which means that test fitting parts can require some degree of force to pull apart. Unfortunately, while trying to remove the cockpit part from the fuselage, I snapped off one of the two tiny laser cannons underneath the cockpit window. This part is a fraction of a millimeter in diameter and while trying to glue it back on, the force of the tweezers on the cylindrical shape caused it to fly off somewhere under my workbench. After crawling around and eyeballing every gray speck under my workbench (and there were MANY) I actually found it. Predictably (for me) the same exact thing happened again with the tweezers rocketing the fragment in a random direction not once, but twice. After the third launch, I couldn't locate the damned thing, so I threw in the towel and decided to try another approach. So I cut off both laser cannons and drilled them out with a pin vise, then cut a couple of pieces of wire to appropriate lengths as replacements. I tried to smooth down the rough edges of the wire left by the snips using a Dremel rotary tool with limited success. The model also came with a black rectangular base which featured a multi-position tip that inserted into the bottom of the TIE Striker. When I took some of the test photos with the included base, the shape of the dual axis swivels was somewhat distracting, so I decided to create a custom base. I found an old jar lid in the garage and a piece of dowel which I used to bolster a length of 3mm tubing. Painted black with a white decal cut on my Cameo 3 cutter, it bears a striking resemblance to the base AndyRM101 created for his TIE Striker. I had asked my son if he thought white, gray or silver decal would look best and he suggested that I go with white.
  7. This is my first post and the third model I’ve built in over 30 years since I just got back into the hobby. Having found the Britmodeller forum a couple of months ago, I’ve learned so much from the fantastic community and I hope to keep improving my skills so that I can someday contribute back. This model is part of a Last Jedi Resistance Vehicles boxed set that includes Poe Dameron's boosted X-Wing, a Blue Squadron T-70 X-Wing and a 1/350 scale Millenium Falcon. Rather than going for the standard Blue Squadron paint job, I wanted to try to something a little different. I've seen a number of people create builds based on Ralph McQuarrie's concept art from the 1970s and I really like the color scheme. The design team for Episodes VII and VIII went back to a lot of McQuarrie's original concept art for the "new" ships as you can see from the half-cylinder engines in the X-Wing image below. AndyRM101, who’s become one of my favorite modellers due to his superb skills, wonderful advice and top notch contributions, did a fantastic job with the 1/72 scale version for his Resistance T-70 X-Wing model and I'm hoping to do something similar at a smaller scale. As with the other Bandai Star Wars kits, the quality and detail of the parts are exceptionally good. However, this kit was unusual in that the halves of the thrusters did not perfectly match up when assembled. Bandai usually has exceptionally good fit for their parts but I had to trim down the assembly tabs to manually align the parts for a perfect fit. They were only misaligned by a fraction of a millimeter, but on a model this small, the mismatch is more prominent. Another minor issue is the central shaft that the S-foils rotate around was too loose and it's too easy to nudge the S-foils out of their X configuration. I found this to be the case on the T-65 X-Wing model as well. I ended up adding some glue around the central shaft to bulk it up slightly and tighten up the fit. I applied a base coat of Stynylrez Gray Primer followed by a coat of Vallejo Model Air 71.121 Light Gull Gray which turned out to be a little too dark. The orange-yellow hull and wing markings were masked and airbrushed on with Minitaire D6-125 Warning Yellow. I used Minitaire D6-109 Badger Fur for the gray hull stripe and Minitaire D6-110 Charred Stone for the darker blocks. Metal panel details were a thin mix of Vallejo Game Color 72.054 Gun Metal and Model Air 71.057 Black. Some panels were painted with Minitaire D6-108 Rock which has a lighter, warmer tone than Badger Fur. Like most X-Wings, there are quite a few markings and panels that need to be masked. I copied the wing markings from AndyRM101 which used a combination the orange along with smaller dark gray blocks on the wings to give a little more visual interest. After blocking in all the base colors, I sprayed on a coat of Tamiya TS-13 Clear so I could begin weathering. Since other builds of the "McQuarrie X-Wing" I've seen were painted in a clean style like the original concept painting, I wanted to weather mine a bit to look closer to the grungy style of the movies. Due to the tiny size of the model I avoided the use of chipping fluid or liquid mask on the markings and instead sponged on small spots of Light Gull Gray using a torn bit of makeup sponge. Since the orange hull markings are pretty light, the chipping is not very prominent. I also sponged on darker scuffs and streaks with Model Air 71.268 German Gray. I'm eagerly awaiting a shipment of Flory Washes which I understand to be excellent. In the interim, I used Vallejo Model Wash Light Gray, Dark Gray and Rust in various mixtures for picking out panels lines and details. The BB model droid is a tiny little piece of plastic which has surprising detail for being so small. It was tricky to paint and required quite a bit of time to sharpen up the details. Below is the initial color blocking before cleanup and a pin wash. Another tiny detail were the red triangles near the leading edge of each engine intake. I didn't have any decals so small, so I made a little mask and airbrushed on Model Air 72.711 Gory Red and it turned out great. I should have gone for a lighter hull color like Vallejo White Gray, but I didn't have any on hand and I wanted to try out my Minitaire paints. I also feel like I went a little overboard with the panel line washes which is a habit I picked up from painting miniatures where "black lining" and exaggerating edge detail is crucial for reading such small shapes. Overall, this was a fun little build and I'm slowly building up a fleet of 1/144 Star Wars vehicles from Bandai. Now I just have to find the time to build and paint them!
  8. Hawker Siddeley Trident 1/144 1C to 1E conversion Northeast Airlines (UK) RESTORATION Kit: Airfix Scale: 1/144 Decals: Classic Airlines (by Nick Webb) Windows: Authentic Airliners Work in progress thread can be found here Thanks for looking!
  9. This is a 1/144 Westland Lysander Mk.II from the small Japanese resin manufacturer FoxOne Studios. I built this as part of the RAF 100 GB on Kampfgruppe 144 (see full WIP thread here) but am reposting here as I've only seen one of these built up before and it might interest a few people... This is the Mk.II kit, but FoxOne also do a Mk.I and a Mk.IIISD boxing. I have both and am tempted to get cracking on the next! The kit has one of the most detailed and spectacular interiors of any kit I've yet built in this scale. No, none of it can be seen. The resin is generally very nice and fit is ok. I replaced some of the kit parts as they seemed quite clunky and over scale - I added some aerials of my own, put the messenger hook on from stretched sprue and devising the gunsight that sits on the nose. For this I cut up some 1:700 ship railings and fettled to taste. I also added some etch to the wheels but these aren't very accurate and I may yet do something to improve this. All in all I very much enjoyed this build. It was taxing at times but nothing offputting, but builds into a good representation of a Lysander with the right stance on the ground. There are some clunky elements to it, but it was fun. Yep - surface detail is a bit heavy. But so what. I will very rarely get as close to this as the camera lens is here, and from a respectable, normal distance the recessed detail looks rather nice to my eye. I avoided doing any sort of washes or weathering though - felt that really could ruin the party for everyone. Kept it to a few smudges with pastels. One thing I'm very glad of is that I devised my own scheme for this. The kit comes with some very dreary decals for a training unit based in Scotland. I built mine as a 13 Squadron kit based in France in 1940. The Lysanders took a terrible punishment in trying to observe the Wehrmacht moving through the Ardennes and were soon withdrawn from France, but I was drawn (like a scale modelling magpie) to the unusual roundel. All decals from the spares box. I intend to have a Battle of France shelf one day and this will go front, centre among a Squadron of Sweet Hurricanes, a yet to be released Blenheim or two, and perhaps the odd Zvezda Fairey Battle (and if you want to know what the modelling deities among us can do with that kit, look here - yep it's 144 alright). Finally, with a rather small human and an SEAC Hurricane I'm working on, I'm impressed at how large the Lizzie was. Oh and a 1:1 tupenny. Thanks - as ever - for looking. Angus
  10. Revell A320 with decals from @RICHW for Monarch and is the aircraft my wife and I flew back on from Venice. Thanks for looking. Steve
  11. Fokker F-27, Air UK. 1/144 26 Models. This is the Eastern Express kit reboxed by Ray at 26 Decals, and offered at a considerably more reasonable price (£21 vs EE's retail price of £49.99), including a set of Rays' own Laser decals. It has the look of short run injection kit and definitely needs 'building', by which I mean parts need to be checked & fettled to get the best fit. And it needs filling and sanding along the way. That said, it does build into a nice little replica of the Friendship. The decals were laser printed on constant film, so needed individually cutting out, but they performed very well, and I really like this livery. 'With something else' A shortened Revell RJ70, also with 26 Decals on it A few words on construction. The kit actually comes with complete solid fuselage halves, a cockpit interior, and an optional clear part for the cockpit area. There won't be much point building the cockpit interior if you are going to put it inside the solid fuselage, as it will never be seen! Therfore I decided to use the clear section. Unfortunately there are no markings inside or the fuselage halves as to where you should cut, so I did it gradually, test fitting the clear part and cutting back until I had a suitable opening. It is not a brilliant fit, being too wide at the front end, but there is just enough material on it to sand it back and blend it in after gluing. This is the amount of solid area that needs removing from the fuselage halves. The next challenge was that the clear part is completely smooth and has no indication of the glazing panels. I put a sheet of clear plastic over the cockpit window on the decal sheet and a strip of Tamiya masking tape on it. I then made a set of masks matching the decals, and applied them to the clear part. Of course all this extra work can be avoided by not using the clear part and building it with the solid fuselage halves. Main airframe, filler was used! Not shown here are the props. They are fiddly to do as the spinners are in 2 parts with a back plate and forward spinner. You do get a choice of 2 different types of props though. I also replaced the 'towel rail' aerials on the fuselage underside with fine copper wire, and the above photos show I bent one during the photo session! I've straightened it out since. It is a nice little kit, but perhaps not one for the beginner. Thanks for looking, John
  12. 1/144 scale Fokker E.III belonging to Leutnant zur See Gotthard Sachsenberg sometime in 1916.
  13. After doing the 1/144 Albatros I've got the bug for small scale great war aircraft. I will be using the Valom kit which seem like a good base but much work needed. There isn't much other choice in this scale either. Starting with the cockpit...
  14. Finished Valom Albatros. This is my first build of a Valom kit, I don't think this is as good as the others available after studying parts, the kit engine was massively oversized like a church organ. Lots of adjustments had to be made. I will add this to a base but I want to learn static grass to make a good base.
  15. As I have mentioned in my other thread in this GB I have been away from the workbench for over a month and a half...not sure how that happened. Anyway while I get my mojo back for the other (stalled) project I fancied something (a) airplane based and (b) quick ish. After inspection of the stash I came across this: With a suitable MTO option in the form of Ju 87B-2 Trop 2./StG 1 Derna Libya October 1941. With only a couple of dozen pieces (but including some very fine photo etch) it must be capable of being put together in a few sessions....surely 😉 As always all comments welcome. Dave
  16. Ilyushin IL-86 Uzbekistan Airways UK-86090 Zvezda 25th Anniversary kit 1/144 work in progress link is here
  17. It's finished, and on an underwater vignette. To be honest I know I can do better but I rushed this one out as I was getting bored with this model. I have a rule of only ever starting/working on one build at a time, so I quickly finished it so I can start something else. I just didn't get much satisfaction from this kit, can't say why, I'm glad it's done.
  18. OK this (hopefully) will be following along the lines of the Puffer and develop the theme. First off the craft in question She is typical of the numerous Mackerel and Pilchard Drivers see around our coasts until the early 1900 when they were replaced by steam. The hull length was around 39' (12m) overall with fore and aft out riggers loa. 69.5' (21.2m) The Happy Return is owned and sailed by the " Mount's Bay Lugger Association and was built early in the 19th C. http://www.happyreturn.org/ I mentioned my interest in Luggers and found one of the club members works the H/R. He managed to produce a stack of ref pics and the boats plans. Thank you Len you are a Star! Started of in the same way as the Puffer with waterlines stuck onto plastic card Looks a mess at this stage Phoenix rising from the ashes lol The one bit I forgot to take a pic of was the keel. I started off with a plastic card keel but it was to easy to damage as I tried to get the waterlines to shape. So I replaced it with brass sheet on each side cut to the keel, stem and stern shape. Now here is where we have a change of tack ..... I'm going to use this as a plug and make a fibreglass mould. I will then be able to produce hulls easily with the side bulwarks in place or so the story goes. Watch this space Thanks for looking in and I hope you enjoy the voyage The Lugger Mystery was 33' long and left Penzance in 1854 manned by seven Cornishmen looking for work. You could never call the Cornish lazy. They arrived 115 days later having covered 12,000 miles Kev
  19. Zvezda A321 with decals from @RICHW for Monarch and is the aircraft my wife and I flew on to Venice. And with the A320 we flew back on Thanks for looking. Steve
  20. Hey everyone, have been working on this for a month or so now, you can find the WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235031236-revell-platinum-1144-uss-fletcher/&tab=comments Thank you all for stopping by, think I will be taking on Takom's Chieftain next!
  21. My first build will be a EC-121K, early designation WV-2 by Jan H, auf Flickr WV-13 kit decals for a plane that used the Keflavik and Prestwick bases in the late 50's and early 60's by Jan H, auf Flickr Hunchback device and guppy bottom.... by Jan H, auf Flickr
  22. I picked up a copy of the 1/144 Parc Models Sputnik kit this week Not opened the wrapping yet, but the moulding looks good, not sure about the fit and accuracy yet. Anyone built this yet? thanks anthony
  23. I recently purchased a Revell British Airways A319 to build, and this will be my first foray into the model plane world, my normal habitat being model trains. I'm going to build the kit as American Airlines N742PS, the PSA (Pacific Southwest Airlines) heritage livery. Other than the bottom of the wings, is there anything incorrect about the Revell kit, specifically for an American (ex US air) A319? Are there any detail parts you would suggest adding to improve detail/the look of the model? In the train world weathering is very noticeable and in your face, what is an appropriate amount of weathering on an airliner? There are no decals available for the American version of the PSA livery, only the US Air version. Would you recommend painting the stripes on or designing some decals? Where could I find a smaller modern American Logo? Attached is an image (not mine) of the PSA scheme, and I should get the kit in the next few days.
  24. I received this kit from a modelling friend who got it from someone else too. It was already started,although in very bad condition.It must have been started some 20+ years ago with some parts already glued and terribly painted. My friend was unsure what to do with it,so he gave it to me,hoping that I might have some use for it,being as a parts donator for my other DC-10s. I thought I try to save it and repaint and finish the build.But as the Revell kit has its issues,I tried to correct some areas and enhance the overall look of the kit. Changes / corrections I made; - Correcting the nose,cockpit area - Rework the engines ( extending the mountings and rework the intakes and exhausts) - adding the APU - extend the wingbox to match the DC-10-30 (kit is more a DC-10-10) - lowering the slats like they were when the DC-10 was on the ground It took quite a while to get all as it should be,the wingbox was the most time consuming area. The decals come from 26,NAZCA and Authentic airliners. I am not completely satisfied with the outcome but it was a good exercise for my other Revell DC-10s I might do a WIP on my next Revell DC-10 to show the conversions Enjoy,
  25. Allow me to present one of a pair of 737-300 models in 1/144 scale, built for the recent 737 Single Type Group Build on here. The other one in WestPac Colorado Springs livery is elsewhere in RFI. I normally build military aircraft or race cars but I do find the schemes on airliners interesting and this one was a long term ambition of mine after seeing the kit/decal sheet combo built somewhere. I tried for many years to get a copy of the decal sheet and finally I saw it re-printed and I caught the release before it sold out. For those unfamiliar with it, Daco is a brand owned and run by Danny Coreman of Belgium, maybe best known for F-16 and F-104 decals, upgrades and reference materials. He does however have a pretty sharp line in 737 kits and it is one of these I have built here. The kit is very detailed, seems pretty accurate and is offered with a generic decal sheet absolutely ram-packed full of stencils, windows and doors, and wing Coroguard and NMF leading edges etc. You need to source your own livery decals and here again Daco steps forward with an extensive range of sheets. Western Pacific (now sadly defunct) operated out of Colorado for barely 3 years but in that time brought some serious colour to the skies by turning their aircraft into flying bill-boards; with this one they were sponsored by Fox who lent the Simpsons characters to the livery. The decals were designed for Daco's own kit and I have to say these were probably the best fitting decal sheets I have ever used. The kit went together a treat though some fun was had with the wing/fuselage joint - easily solved with a bit of careful sanding and scraping. The Simpson's sheet also came with a small etched fret for the various aerials and sensor heads that adorn a 737. The kit includes a separate clear cockpit area which requires a bit of cutting but this is simplified by thinned areas on the inside surface. I took the opportunity to use this and scratch-build some cockpit detail - seeing the end result I am not so sure it was a smart move as nothing can be seen of the interior! Oh well, live and learn! Sorry if I got carried away here but, as you can probably tell, I was pretty impressed with this litte kit. Since my last experience of a 1/144 airliner was from the 70s with one of Airfix's Skyking range I was amazed by the detail and refinement - airliner kits have come a long way since then! For painting I used Daco's own Simpson's Yellow and WestPac Blue (produced by Xtracolor) and for the wings/tailplanes I took the advice of the regulars in the STGB and used Halfords Racking Grey as a good match for Boeing Grey Anyway, enough waffle, here are the pics - hope you enjoy looking as much as I enjoyed building. Comment and criticism welcome as always. Thanks for looking ATB Rick
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