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  1. Time to put my tenner in the hat and start my thread off. I found this in a charity shop for £9.50 (I paid a tenner, so that's all my budget blown) It's only my 2nd bike build, so it could be interesting. But if it's usual Tamiya quality I'm sure it will be fine........ Ian
  2. The latest droid to add to my ever growing collection, this is an EG-6 Power Droid, or 'Gonk'. They're a fairly common sight throughout the films and TV shows, although PT-1N here isn't based on any particular one. He's mainly constructed from 3D printed parts for the larger components, with some traditional kit bashing used for the details. It was a huge amount of fun to essentially design and manufacture my own kit, and I'll cetainly be doing more printed droid models in the future. The full build can be found here for anyone interested. Finally, here's a few comparison shots with my previous Gonk, DN-LD, who was built from a JPG resin kit, and one last shot with R-33K who was loitering around the photo booth. Thankd for looking Andy
  3. 13th (Duke of Connaught’s) Bengal Lancers 1897.
  4. Born at Domrémy in 1412, her parents were well-to-do peasants living near the edge of the French Kingdom. At about the age of 13 she began to hear the voices, later identified as those of St. Michael, St. Catherine and St. Margaret. In 1429 these voices bade her to rescue Orleans, which was under siege by the English. Joan entered the city on 29th April and by 8th May the English were in full retreat and Orleans saved. The following year she responded to an attack on Compiégne by the Burgundians, but was captured on 23rd May. John of Luxembourg sold her to the English for 10,000 gold crowns. She was tried at Rouen from 21st February to 17th March, and having been found guilty of sorcery and heresy, was burned at the stake in the market place of Rouen on 30th May 1431. Alclad2 used for her armour.
  5. The Black Prince was born Edward of Woodstock in 1330, the eldest son of Edward III. His title of Black Prince first appeared in 1569, nearly 200 years after his death (1376). In his youth Edward was created Earl of Chester, Duke of Cornwall (the first), and Prince of Wales. He won his spurs at the Battle of Crecy, defeating 30,000 French troops with just 10,000 of his own. Ten years later he succeeded again with 6,000 English defeating 20,000 French at Poitiers, capturing the French King John.
  6. Hi and welcome to my next project this is my second model kit build and first bike. I am a big Honda fan but i don't know much about there bikes but i liked the look of this one and thought i would try it. I have nearly finished the corvette i have been working on. Just got the rear glass to tint and a cut polish and wax of the clearcoat and final assembly on that to do so while i wait for the paint for the glass and the clear coat to cure i thought i would make a start. so far i have built most of the engine removed any seam lines and mold lines. It was quite a simple fun experience and painted it with UMP gray primer. The engine and cylinder heads went together really well and easily i have decided to paint it in three main sections to try and make it easier to get all the small spaces and awkward sections. The detail on these parts is amazing there's so many nice small parts that really make the engine pop. it seems a shame to hide all that detailing. I have ordered some small magnets which I will try and use to fit the fairings to the frame on my second build it might be biting of more than i can chew but I really don't want to hide all the hard work I'm going to put in on the build. While i was spraying the primer i decided to spray up a bunch of spoons so i can test paints before i pick colors to make sure I'm happy with any custom paints.
  7. I read the Aston Martin DB9 build by @johnlambert recently with sympathy as this model has tested my patience and fortitude in much the same way, particularly since the end of February when my attention turned to the body, I'm a novice in the world of cars (three down and quite a few to go) and after lavishing a lot of time on the modifications to the drive train and interior, I was feeling on a roll but the shiny bits didn't want to play, for a bit more detail my in progress is here - Anyway, I have decided it's finished, (it's not, there are things I know need to be added but my enthusiasm for the model is currently running on empty) so I've taken some pictures, tidied the workbench and put it away in a box! As with every model it's a learning experience so one just needs to move forwards. Excuse the rather poor photographs, I have an ancient iPhone and it wasn't as sunny as I'd hoped. Anyway, all critique is welcome, it's not my best work so anything you say won't be anything I haven't thought myself. Onwards they say and a 1977 spec Tyrrell P34 is next across the bench. Dave
  8. I asked for some advice on this last year so I thought I would put up a few WIP pictures. It's the old Bandai/Doyusha kit of the IMSA US spec racer and as they are so expensive when available on eBay I bought a built model which was complete but a bit of a glue bomb, not a problem as I intended to strip it and convert it. I managed to separate a lot of the parts as they were not put together very well (although there was copious adhesive it seemed to be superglue) so once everything was apart it was given a good dunking in oven cleaner to get rid of the paint and chrome. The main visual differences between the IMSA and GROUP 5 cars are the front air dam, rear wing and the vents over the rear wheels, they only built 4 Group 5 cars and these were converted from the IMSA spec cars and some of these were then converted back to the IMSA spec by US owners in later years so restoration pictures can be a bit misleading. Anyway a few pictures: Front air dam from plasticard with the kit brake vents grafted in. The louvred vents over the rear wheels caused me some head scratching but some Plastruct laddering proved to be about the right size so some was procured and grafted into a hole cut in the arch extension. The rear wing supports will be made of laminations of plastic card and I'll blend those into the boot lid. The way the kit is put together means the chassis can be built as a completely separate module so this has been started with the rebuild of the rear suspension. Drive shafts have been detailed and oil lines added along with replacement hardware for most of the mounting points. The front suspension has been detailed, the front roll bar replaced and the steering rack made a little more realistic. The ride height has been reduced considerably so she should look low and mean once everything comes together. Dave
  9. From the WIP at: this is the finished result. I have been amazed at the qualiy of this kit and recommend it to all that are interested in 70s bikes. The KH400 is the same kit, just different decals and use the alternative components that are spares for the 250. And to compare with the YZR500 Thanks for looking Tony
  10. This is a trip back to my youth. I bought 3 non-running S1/KH250 when I was 17. I managed to piece together a working KH250 and this was my first bike after ditching the L-Plates. It also started a journey where I owned a KH400, KH500 and an H2 750 before I moved onto the Suzuki stink pots which in turn culminated in an RG500. Of the Kawasaki triples, the 250 was my favourite, the 400 was more powerful but not as much fun, the 500 kept breaking down (ignition issues) and the 750 just wanted to kill me. This is also my first Hasegawa bike kit, and it is a beauty! The build and fit so far are superb and the separate parts are going to make the build a lot easier. The plan is to build it as my KH looked, so mine was Candy Cobalt Blue and completely stock, albeit with flatter handlebars. I also have the Hobby Design PE kit for it and I am going to add the bits that are missing, as I still have the Haynes Workshop Manual, so this will include the auto-lube cables and a stab at the wiring loom too amongst other things. So far, I have made a start on the cylinder barrels. The fins have been thinned to remove the joins and the crankcase has had the access way for the oil pipes opened up and the moulded engine bolt removed and replaced with an alloy tube. This shows the before and after on the barrels, the right is without any work: This is the crankcases: From the box: Oil lines are some MFH fine brown pipes with thin wire threaded through so that I can shape them to route along the crancase below the carbs, the bolts are MasterClub 1.0mm resin bolts through some 1.2mm tube: And this is them placed for dry-fit purposes. The molded bolts are removed and drilled out, also the original holes for the clutch and oil lines are plugged so I can use thinner wire than what comes with the kit: This is the case halves assembled with the replacement bolt: I also have been working on the wheels. There is a lot of chrome in the kit, and if you want some sprue-shots I can post them. I have removed the chrome from the hubs by creating a plasticine well for keeping the bleach away from the rim. I also am planning to next write a separate WIP on the methods that I used. But this is the rear wheel before, during and finished for comparison. These are the wheels with the hubs stripped of chrome, just dry fits: I started by removing some of the spokes and replacing with 0.5mm piano wire with 0.8mm aluminium tubes cut to 1mm lengths for the furrels, these are on the left side. The hubs have been painted with AK Xtreme Metal Matte Aluminium: Just steel spokes and now quite flimsy: Finished: I have some tyre valves on the way, so that and the brake and rear sprocket need to be added at a later stage. Front wheel is next and then if the weather allows, some paint on the engine parts. Thanks for looking. Tony
  11. Hi all, Long time lurker and on and off modeller for 25 odd years. I thought I'd share this project I have been procrastinating on for a few years now, I figured by sharing my progress it would give me more motivation to keep going with it. I have made decent progress so far, I will share pics of where I am up to shortly. I am using Tamiya paints, rattle cans and brush mostly. The kit: Upgrades I have bought to enhance the model include the Tamiya detail up kit, tobacco decals, carbon decals:
  12. Scale Motorsport is re-releasing the 1/12 Porsche 935 Super Detail Kit SMS 935 Super Detail Kit
  13. R-33K Protocol Droid Bandai 1/12 Another repaint of Bandai's C-3PO to add to the collection (I still haven't built this kit as it's intended subject yet). As with the previous ones, this is a non-movie droid of my own design by the name of R-33K, or Reek to his friends (if he had any). He's clearly not had the best of lives, and is probably even more decrepit and useless than Boris. No real modifications to the kit apart from the various hacks and gashes, and the missing arm, the joint for which was made from spares box bits and a few lengths of wire. Thanks for looking Andy
  14. Hi guys, This will be a gamble if I can finish it, But I wanted to build this model for a special friend. She loves Motorcycles and specially a Harley Davidson. So here are the pcitures of the box content. As I pulled it out of the stash I noticed that there were some parts already from the sprue and the wheels were made up. I bought it this way. If not mistaken for 20 quid. So we will see if I can manage this one as well. Cheers,
  15. I'm new to the forum and wanted to display my first post and first build in 13 years. I built lots of cars up to getting married and the time taken with starting a business etc. meant my attention moved to collecting high end diecasts. But lock down has given me the time to build again and I've loved it, it's kept me from frustration. This is the wonderful recent Tamiya kit with upgrades from Top Studio and Hobby Design Detail kits, as well as various Top Studio additions such as brake banjos and bleed nipples. Paint is mostly Alclad with the fairings in Tamiya LP-21 Italian Red, which did give me some problems. I had to redo a few panels as the 2k clear reacted with paint that hadn't hardened yet, even after a week of waiting! Hence it's missing its front DUCATI logo until I can find another.
  16. hello fellow modellers, I want to share some progress of this project. so far it has been quite fun and enjoyable to build. I found very useful this post by Pappy (from 2008!) here's my first WIP
  17. Morning all, I trust everyone is enjoying the Bank Holiday. I have just started the old Bandai/Otaki/Doyusha 1/12 BMW E9 3.5 CSL, I got a bit of a glue bomb off eBay a couple of months ago and I've stripped it down and given the shell a bath in Mr Muscle to get rid of the paint and decals, so I'm just about to start putting it back together. As part of my car collection I want to modify the model from the 1975 IMSA spec to 1976 European Group 5 spec, I saw the cars run at the inaugural Silverstone 6 Hour meeting and the Fitzpatrick/Walkinshaw car won it in an exciting finish from Porsche's Martini 935. Initially I thought I would make the winning Hermetite sponsored car but the more I research it the more I am taken with the #2 Schnitzer prepared Gosser Bier sponsored car, this retired from the race but went on to be the most successful of the CSL Batmobiles and is still raced in classic events after an extensive rebuild. So my question is, what colour reference is the green this beauty is painted in? I've searched the interweb to see if Gosser Bier have any Pantone refs for their house colour but found nothing and it seems to have changed over the years and on other sponsored cars. The restoration seems to have got it a bit lighter than the period photos seem to indicate so I'm reluctant to ask the restorer. I would like to get an off the shelf rattle can if possible but this may be overly optimistic. The major mods to the kit shell are a new front and rear spoiler and louvred vents over the rear wheels, so my hacksaw will be out! Dave
  18. EL-5A Mouse Droid 1/12 3D Print I've recently bought a 3D printer (Elegoo Mars Pro), and have been slowly finding my feet with that and Fusion 360. I wanted something fairly simple as an initial print, and there's very little that's simpler than Nigel. He objected to a digital doppelganger though, so this initial print has become EL-5A who's now betrothed to Nigel in some kind of weird mouse droid arranged marriage. The print came out fairly well, although there are some things I need to tweak, both with the printing and with the original file. The upper body was done at 0.05mm layer hight, while everything else was done at 0.025mm, and there's a marked difference as you'd expect, so I'll be trying the body again at the higher rez. The one thing I wasn't sure would come out okay was the top greebles. I didn't know if my design would be beyond the printer's capabilities. As it turned out, they printed fine and are the bits of this model I'm most pleased with. They certainly showed just what the printer is capable of. She's not as heavily weathered as Nigel, which seemed only fair, and she's had the white stripes to reference her name and her status as the future bride of Nigel. Since I'd got the basic file for the body, I also printed up two more without the side panel details, so I could make up the Mouse train that was originaly envisaged for ANH, but never used on screen due to the unpredictability and general uselessness of all Mouse Droids. EL-5A, being an all-round better class of rodent, can handle them easily. Thanks for looking Andy
  19. This is my modification to a large scale die cast model of the Gulf Porsche 917, I did a WIP thread here Basically I started with a CMR (nee Minichamps) ready made model of the famous #20 car from 1970 Le Mans but wanted to add some extra detail. This is what I started with, And after stripping down, some scratch building and detailing I finished with this, It's not perfect, the weathering is a bit clumsy (no airbrush) but is inspired by both the movie images and pictures of the "real" car at Le Mans and is placing the car at late afternoon/early evening of the race after the first downpour and before the headlamp protectors come off. Anyway it's my homage to one of the most iconic race cars from, for me, the best era in endurance racing. Dave
  20. This will be my first WIP on here and also my first attempt at detailing up a die cast, it’s going to be a slow one too, summers around the corner and the wife has a large list of jobs around the garden and house. Just a warning. As I said in another thread on the Discussion board, I have always loved the 917 and particularly the JW Engineering run Gulf team, predictable I know but after seeing the movie Le Mans who couldn’t love the blue and orange cars? I used to be a dyed in the wool aircraft modeller but turned to building cars in 1/12th scale a couple of years ago and my aim is to try and produce a collection of models of cars that I saw race in the 70’s, or if I didn’t see the car then cars driven by drivers I had seen or met in that period. Having stated that, I never saw a 917 in action until the Festival of Speed a few years ago and I never saw Jo Siffert in action (mores the pity) but I did see Brian Redman drive in period, and I did go to the cinema in 1971/72 to see Le Mans! With that bit of background, on to the model. I just can’t justify to myself, let alone my wife, spending north of £500 for the MFH kit. I know it would be a superb product but now I’m getting old I don’t have quite the patience to slog on with that type of model, so I’ve also given up on ever buying or building a Pocher kit! I like the opportunity to detail and improve the old Tamiya F1 kits, this is my effort with a Ferrari flat 12 from Laudas 312T So wanting a 917 I thought that a 1/12 die cast might produce a good kerb side model with a few detail tweeks to please my modellers eye and give me some build satisfaction. Now diecasts of this size are not so cheap either, around £200 but a few weeks ago I happened upon an eBay sale of a CMR 1/12 Porsche 917, it was a buy it now or best offer and I put in a lower offer and it was accepted, so for £70 I had a slightly damaged 917, it was the #20 Gulf le Mans car, famed in film by Steve McQueen. I know nothing about CMR but it looked the part and not costing me a fortune meant it could be taken apart relatively painlessly, so here’s what I got. Now I got some helpful comments in my first thread, thanks @klubman01 and @Schwarz-Brot . The model is quite well finished but is typical diecast with some too large details. So a list of modifications I have so far is - 1) the main problem is the model does not have the roof mounted, rearward facing vent – This going to require some scratch building and will therefore entail some degree of a repaint. Not overly happy about that, I was hoping to avoid that as there seems to be no aftermarket decal sheet in 1/12th scale. 2) the model doesn’t have holes for the electric cut out switch pull on the left side behind the door and there is a corresponding hole on the right but I’m not sure what that is. There are transfers indicating these on the model but they don’t cut it for me. 3) add detail around the exposed gearbox/back axle, these can be improved, add oil piping and maybe replace some of the chassis strut work with more in scale brass tube? Detail the suspension. 4) rear deck flip up spoilers are too “up in the air” for the race setting and are missing the adjustable legs at the rear. 5) interior detailing can be improved with wiring to the ignition boxes on the firewall, piping to the extinguisher, better seat belts, additional fuse box on the n/s under the dash, detailing the dash panel, add interior mirror etc. 6) finesse the wiper arm assembly. 7) modify the racing number lights to the correct pattern put wrinkled clear plastic over the headlights and tape them for headlamp protectors rather than just the model’s black decal. 9) Improve and finesse the brakes and wheels. 10) make the exterior paintwork less “diecast”, as suggested by @Schwarz-Brot this may just be emphasising shut lines and toning down the shininess, I’m looking for suggestions here. I’m hoping others may have more ideas as we go forward as I’m no subject matter expert and only a very novice car builder. Last thing before I end this introduction – do I make the race car or the movie car? There are subtle differences. All comments and ideas welcome. Dave
  21. HI all, not really a WIP, just some shots of a half built model. After a long break from modelling I fancied the newly released Alfa from Italeri. It's OK. Fit is very good, sink marks not so good. Detail is pretty good too overall. Anyway, here's where I'm up to:- So far I've:- Drilled out all of the kit 'bolts' indistinct plastic blobs, and replaced them with proper resin items Drilled out the core plugs, built up the outers and fitted brass core plugs turned 4 ali filler caps for the rocker covers and 2 for the engine block replaced the ignition leads with braided cord scratch built clips for the distributor cap scratch built air filter from PE mesh scratch build braided lines and banjo connector for the oil pump. added braided cable from the rocker covers to the bulkhead - rev counter I assume, although not sure why there would be two? Lots of alcad and hopefully subtle washes, I'm going for old but not dirty which is tricky to pull off. More to follow no doubt. Eventually I think I will turn some proper wire wheels, and replace the kit leaf springs and dampers with something better - but go with the kit items for now. Thanks for looking, Nick
  22. This build stalled a couple or few years ago when I looked closely at the windows supplied in the kit and realised the main screens were virtually unusable. I commented on @Peter Milgate's lovely build thread about them and then contacted @capri-schorsch who kindly supplied his vac form set with templates and spare material for just the cost of postage, very generous. So I've got no excuse for pushing on except I'm in the middle of a 917K build! In Pete's thread I said I would start my own so here it is, I'll regard this as a place holder to come back to once the 917 is finished, they're iPhone pictures so don't expect brilliance! The fuel tank was roughed up with an application of plastic solvent (plastic pipe cleaner) and stippled with a stiff brush then given a dark wash. Engine shoe horned in. Just noticed the trailing arms are not there, must check the box to make sure I still have them. Some bits of the interior look as though they have come adrift too... but I'm quite pleased with how it looks overall, not something I usually think but the passage of time dulls the critical side of your brain! When you're in the middle of the project - nothing but self criticism! It may also inspire folk to get and build the sister 934 as it's just been re released by Tamiya. They really are lovely kits. I haven't taken any pictures of the body shell, it's not good, the decals have started to flake as I didn't put a finish lacquer on before it got parked so it looks like a replacement decal set is required as well. So place holder set, future project to finish. Dave
  23. For you delectation may I offer my 1/12 Ferrari 312T as driven by a Mr N. Lauda at the USGP West Long Beach March 28 1976? It's the venerable Tamiya kit, but in it's later upgraded guise with etched metal fittings. I managed to obtain this several years ago from a member of my old club, @Covjets13 thanks Si! Bet you wish you'd charged me more as these things have rocketed in value in the last couple of years. I didn't use very much of new etch parts in the kit, they didn't seem to add much in my opinion. I remember building this back in the late 70's and the parts don't seemed to have suffered much in the intervening years, still cleanly moulded, with little flash and it fits well. Anyway, this is what I was aiming for - And this is what I finished up with - The body doesn't fit because of the way I chose to display the model with fuel tank panels off. Looks like I got some reaction with the gloss coat..... I've used lots of wires and cord collected over the years to simulate the plumbing and wiring, the fibre glass ducts are the kit ones roughed up to simulate the texture and painted, the intake trumpet mesh is home made using fine mesh formed over a carved dome, not perfect but they fit a bit better than the ones I bought off eBay which were too big. Welds are simulated with beads of Krystal Klear, roughed up when nearly dry, all the hardware was replaced with Meng moulded bolts. The red is Halfords rattle can Nissan red which (apparently) is very close to the 1970's Ferrari racing red, clear coat is also Halfords then polished with car polish, decals are from the kit along with some from the BBK generic labels sheet. Hope you like her, I thoroughly enjoyed building her and any critique welcome. Dave
  24. I picked this kit up last year but upon opening the box was a bit disappointed. I found to be much simpler than I was expecting, more akin to a scaled up 1/24 kit. Anyways, in looking to distract myself from the pair of B-25s lingering on my bench I decided to give it a whirl. One of the first things I noticed when I opened the box is that the kit uses stickers instead any decals for the various markings as well as the IP. Starting with the engine and front drivetrain, I noticed a fair bit of flash as well as odd marks in the mouldings. There's this odd bend moulded into the driveshaft which if it was 1/1, wouldn't work very well. I'm thinking I may swap it out. That's it for the moment. Carl
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