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Hello my friends, Here it is! My 2nd Honda Repsol bike, with cowls in place this time, is now ready for inspection. Even if it is a bit less detailed (mainly regarding cables running under the dashboard), I admit I love it and probably even prefer it to the first one, maybe because it is the last build, but above all because the cowls in place give the best perception in term of design and aerodynamics of this beautiful G.P bike. The decision to build a new model is for me, as for most of you I suppose, the result of an aesthetic crush, and the first time I saw the Tamiya box-art of this 2014 Honda Repsol, I thought I would build it some day. I finally build it 2 times! For this 2nd build, I sometimes used alternative approaches for some details (no use of the provided decals for the Black stripes on the seat cowl and the tank cover, or yet use of the Kevlar Fiber pattern SK decals inside the upper cowl instead of the painting option), but most of the time, I was faithful to my first build. So, the Top Studio Chain set was patiently assembled and set in place another time to represent faithfully the chain, and, to give another example (I could give many), the rims were dug using the same technique than for the first build. Here are below the pics: I have now to try to represent Marc Marquez on this bike (from a Valentino Rossi figure I recall), what will be another challenge. I just began the work: Thanks for watching Cheers, Olivier P.S: for those of you interested, here are the links to the first build WIP and RFI:

Hello to all, When I began the build/ thread dedicated to the Honda Repsol 2014, it was to take a break while I was struggling with paint problems on my 1/16 AMT Ford Mustang 1964 Convertible. I thought then that I would build it straight for the box or nearly so. It appeared very quickly (as Jochen had foreseen) that it would turn to a highly detailed build, using several details sets (mainly from Top Studio but also from Blue Stuff, Decalcas, Tamiya etc.) and bringing also my own touch for many details. It appeared then that it would be a pity to hide all these details, wires, cables under the cowls. I decided so to keep only the seat/ tank cowl, while all the other ones would be exposed separately. Then came other ideas: build a second bike, that would be the Marc Marquez one (this one is the Dani Pedrosa, using the Pedrosa Blue Stuff set), with a bit less details and with cowls assembled on the bike. But this, with probably a mechanic working on the "naked" Pedrosa bike and Marquez sitting on the one to come, and if possible with a little paddock scenery, is for later... I thank warmly here all my followers in the WIP section, who encouraged me and sometimes, gave me a hand to avoid errors. In particular, gamblor 916 was my GP expert, me who was up to now totally ignorant on motoGP. I am very happy with the result, especially since the last build I was able to finish was the 1/48 Nieuport Ni 11, in May 2020. I apologize for the Mustang followers, this build will go on waiting, but I prefer to go on and begin asap the 2nd bike. I will not open a new WIP thread for this 2nd bike. The latter will appear in the RFI section when over. And now the last pics of this highly detailed Honda Repsol 2014: Some more pics will be added asap… Cheers, Olivier

Hello to all, Even if my endless Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible at 1/16 scale is not over: I begin a new build and thread dedicated to the 2014 Honda Repsol 213V Tamiya at 1/12. Even if this awesome GP motorbike will require a lot of care, it should be more simple than the Mustang, for which a lot of scratch was and still is necessary considering the quite poor AMT kit and the fact that I made a conversion from a Coupe to a Convertible. As my Mustang project is the priority, this Honda build will go on very slowly first (that is why I hesitated to open a new thread now). Here are below the first pics I made, engine build: N.B: I painted the clutch but in fact, I should not use the Tamiya part, that is not very realistic. I ordered a Top Studio detail set in which a more convincing PE/ resin clutch is provided. But I should not get this set before several weeks... Talking about detail sets, I will certainly order also the Tamiya detail set (front fork ref. 12667), waiting the latter to be in stock again on Passion 132. Cheers, O

If you are of a squeamish nature, look away now... I bang on a great deal about being true to the subject and history with regard to all the details on my models. This model must be the most botched, inaccurate depiction I have produced since I first started modelling, many years ago. The car number is incorrect to the body/mechanics etc; wrong stripe, wrong windscreen, wrong air inlet trumpets, wrong mirrors etc etc. In my defence Tamiya's description and painting/decal instructions are woefully incorrect and/or misleading. However I will support my tentative 'showing' here, by my builds redeeming feature... When I first started this model my immediate reaction was what on earth was Tamiya thinking when they modelled the exhaust system. I spent untold hours bending solder and puppet wire to try and improve the 'look' of Tamiya's 'dangling' pipes. A chance conversation with Malc2 on this forum and an introduction to Nick of 'Unobtainium', led to the development and production of a most fabulous 3D printed solution (available from Nick's online shop). Anyway, enough waffle - just look at the photos: Tamiya's system for holding the front cowl consists of some pretty big obtrusive screws. I experimented for the first time with some micro magnets superglued to the inside and the corresponding superstructure of the chassis - they seem to be holding. The seat is covered in a lovely thin real leather that I seem to have acquired. I've no idea now, from where, but together with some PVA glue and a dressmakers pin marker to represent the stitching, it has given a reasonable representation. Not sure of the accuracy of the shape of the seat however, absolutely no reference available. The brake calipers, front and back, are 'borrowed' from 1/12 Italeri Alfa Romeo 179 and a little scratch work; they are not terribly accurate. Nick's 3D exhaust pipes are completely hollow, all the way through. Bodywork: Tamiya TS7 Racing White from the can, no clearcote, and polished with micromesh cloths and Tamiya polishing creams. The crimson stripe and circle are Tamiya TS86 Pure Red with masked outlines, Tamiya TS14 Black. The engine is a variety metallic paints - Alclad, AK interactive Xtreme metals, Tamiya X range. I also used some Bare-Metal foil in places. Tyres had a variety of AK interactive 'dust effects' enamels and even some grains of sand pushed in to the treads. Any number of rivets and bolt heads were used, both metal from Top Studio, and resin from Plus Models (Czech). Compression fittings from Detail Master. Jewellery wire, fuse wire, Model Factory Hiro fuel line, hand coloured optical fibre, Zsus fasteners from replicas of Maryland, self adhesive mirrored sheet - and probably more that I cannot now recall. Nothing fancy with the photography - iPhoneX, daylight ring light on an anglepoise arm, black card, white card disc.

This is my most challenging build to date. The kit itself is easily Matchbox's greatest achievement in terms of detail and finesse, and from when the masters where probably carved in wood. It suffers though from the the near non-existent or vague attachment points everywhere. A more modern kit would solve these issues but even then the subject is just very demanding as a build due to it's complexity. There just isn't a easy way to handle the model while its being built and it was tempting to stick wings on it just so I could hold it. Finally the extensive chrome work was very challenging - I used Alcad as that's what I had but the finish is just too delicate, clear coating helps but you lose that sheen. I will explore newer alternatives such s the Molotow pen refills and Green Stuff World Chrome but I don't want to got near another metal finish for a quite a while! I re-spoked the wheels with florist's wire and insulation stripped from fine wire. The kit's seat position was lowered to the correct height. Like my other Matchbox builds this year it will be on show at SMW on the Classic British Kits SIG table.

hi,every one!! it's been a long time..... this is my 1/12 TAMIYA HONDA CB750.. this kit is quite old...but fits well!! I did some modification on this bike.. not perfect, but I am happy with the result hope you like it and here is the video build if you are interested

13th (Duke of Connaught’s) Bengal Lancers 1897.

This is JPG Production's 1/12 Viper Probe Droid, scaled to fit in with their previous Gonk and Chopper releases, as well as all the Bandai droids. It's a resin garage kit and, as such, is a little rough in places and some of the details are more approximations of the original than exact copies. I swapped the rather crudely formed arm actuators for metal tubing on mine and added some generic details to the arms and body. The ball sensors on the head were re-built using acrylic beads since the kit parts were rather poorly shaped, and the sensor lenses were removed and replaced with red and clear resin ones. It also features one of Warren's excellent lighting kits, available from Tirydium Models. Thanks for looking Andy

hi,every one!! this is 1/12 Aoshima Honda dream 50 my first motorcycle model. I did some modification on this little bike.. not perfect, but I am happy with the result hope you like it here is the video build if you are interested

Hi all, been a while since I have been on here, moved house, rebuilt my motorcycle, started 2 more to build, started a business building said motorcycles, and yet to finish the last 2 WIP's : Aussie sabre and reppu "Sam" both 1/72 fighter planes. I'm doing this build as a gift to my missus father who i have yet to meet overseas. Kind of a break the ice type gift. He's a massive Yamaha fan, and a motorcycle mechanic himself so i thought this would be fitting. I initially wanted to do a 50th anniversary, or failing that a Rossi version but the prices!!! So this was the other option, and as well as the kit i all upspeced it with a Tamiya detail up kit for the forks and a Top Studio resin kit. My first resin kit i have used so bear with me. This being a gift, i have 4 months to build it so unlike my previous 2 builds, this one NEEDS to be done. Started with the engine, normal Tamiya step one https://www.flickr.com/photos/191561787@N07/51752151409/in/dateposted-public Test fitted the exhaust to allow for the oxygen sensors fitted This is Mandatory as the alignment is very important to not fowl on anything

The latest droid to add to my ever growing collection, this is an EG-6 Power Droid, or 'Gonk'. They're a fairly common sight throughout the films and TV shows, although PT-1N here isn't based on any particular one. He's mainly constructed from 3D printed parts for the larger components, with some traditional kit bashing used for the details. It was a huge amount of fun to essentially design and manufacture my own kit, and I'll cetainly be doing more printed droid models in the future. The full build can be found here for anyone interested. Finally, here's a few comparison shots with my previous Gonk, DN-LD, who was built from a JPG resin kit, and one last shot with R-33K who was loitering around the photo booth. Thankd for looking Andy

Hi! I am in the stage of planing my build of the Tamiya Ducati Panigale 1199. I know that in stock configuration, the front fender is visibly a carbon fiber part. Are there any other parts which have visible carbon fiber on the stock bike? Or to rephrase my question: which kit parts should be covered by carbon fiber decals? Thanks in advance, Markus

Time to put my tenner in the hat and start my thread off. I found this in a charity shop for £9.50 (I paid a tenner, so that's all my budget blown) It's only my 2nd bike build, so it could be interesting. But if it's usual Tamiya quality I'm sure it will be fine........ Ian

Born at Domrémy in 1412, her parents were well-to-do peasants living near the edge of the French Kingdom. At about the age of 13 she began to hear the voices, later identified as those of St. Michael, St. Catherine and St. Margaret. In 1429 these voices bade her to rescue Orleans, which was under siege by the English. Joan entered the city on 29th April and by 8th May the English were in full retreat and Orleans saved. The following year she responded to an attack on Compiégne by the Burgundians, but was captured on 23rd May. John of Luxembourg sold her to the English for 10,000 gold crowns. She was tried at Rouen from 21st February to 17th March, and having been found guilty of sorcery and heresy, was burned at the stake in the market place of Rouen on 30th May 1431. Alclad2 used for her armour.

The Black Prince was born Edward of Woodstock in 1330, the eldest son of Edward III. His title of Black Prince first appeared in 1569, nearly 200 years after his death (1376). In his youth Edward was created Earl of Chester, Duke of Cornwall (the first), and Prince of Wales. He won his spurs at the Battle of Crecy, defeating 30,000 French troops with just 10,000 of his own. Ten years later he succeeded again with 6,000 English defeating 20,000 French at Poitiers, capturing the French King John.

Hi and welcome to my next project this is my second model kit build and first bike. I am a big Honda fan but i don't know much about there bikes but i liked the look of this one and thought i would try it. I have nearly finished the corvette i have been working on. Just got the rear glass to tint and a cut polish and wax of the clearcoat and final assembly on that to do so while i wait for the paint for the glass and the clear coat to cure i thought i would make a start. so far i have built most of the engine removed any seam lines and mold lines. It was quite a simple fun experience and painted it with UMP gray primer. The engine and cylinder heads went together really well and easily i have decided to paint it in three main sections to try and make it easier to get all the small spaces and awkward sections. The detail on these parts is amazing there's so many nice small parts that really make the engine pop. it seems a shame to hide all that detailing. I have ordered some small magnets which I will try and use to fit the fairings to the frame on my second build it might be biting of more than i can chew but I really don't want to hide all the hard work I'm going to put in on the build. While i was spraying the primer i decided to spray up a bunch of spoons so i can test paints before i pick colors to make sure I'm happy with any custom paints.

I read the Aston Martin DB9 build by @johnlambert recently with sympathy as this model has tested my patience and fortitude in much the same way, particularly since the end of February when my attention turned to the body, I'm a novice in the world of cars (three down and quite a few to go) and after lavishing a lot of time on the modifications to the drive train and interior, I was feeling on a roll but the shiny bits didn't want to play, for a bit more detail my in progress is here - Anyway, I have decided it's finished, (it's not, there are things I know need to be added but my enthusiasm for the model is currently running on empty) so I've taken some pictures, tidied the workbench and put it away in a box! As with every model it's a learning experience so one just needs to move forwards. Excuse the rather poor photographs, I have an ancient iPhone and it wasn't as sunny as I'd hoped. Anyway, all critique is welcome, it's not my best work so anything you say won't be anything I haven't thought myself. Onwards they say and a 1977 spec Tyrrell P34 is next across the bench. Dave

I asked for some advice on this last year so I thought I would put up a few WIP pictures. It's the old Bandai/Doyusha kit of the IMSA US spec racer and as they are so expensive when available on eBay I bought a built model which was complete but a bit of a glue bomb, not a problem as I intended to strip it and convert it. I managed to separate a lot of the parts as they were not put together very well (although there was copious adhesive it seemed to be superglue) so once everything was apart it was given a good dunking in oven cleaner to get rid of the paint and chrome. The main visual differences between the IMSA and GROUP 5 cars are the front air dam, rear wing and the vents over the rear wheels, they only built 4 Group 5 cars and these were converted from the IMSA spec cars and some of these were then converted back to the IMSA spec by US owners in later years so restoration pictures can be a bit misleading. Anyway a few pictures: Front air dam from plasticard with the kit brake vents grafted in. The louvred vents over the rear wheels caused me some head scratching but some Plastruct laddering proved to be about the right size so some was procured and grafted into a hole cut in the arch extension. The rear wing supports will be made of laminations of plastic card and I'll blend those into the boot lid. The way the kit is put together means the chassis can be built as a completely separate module so this has been started with the rebuild of the rear suspension. Drive shafts have been detailed and oil lines added along with replacement hardware for most of the mounting points. The front suspension has been detailed, the front roll bar replaced and the steering rack made a little more realistic. The ride height has been reduced considerably so she should look low and mean once everything comes together. Dave

From the WIP at: this is the finished result. I have been amazed at the qualiy of this kit and recommend it to all that are interested in 70s bikes. The KH400 is the same kit, just different decals and use the alternative components that are spares for the 250. And to compare with the YZR500 Thanks for looking Tony

This is a trip back to my youth. I bought 3 non-running S1/KH250 when I was 17. I managed to piece together a working KH250 and this was my first bike after ditching the L-Plates. It also started a journey where I owned a KH400, KH500 and an H2 750 before I moved onto the Suzuki stink pots which in turn culminated in an RG500. Of the Kawasaki triples, the 250 was my favourite, the 400 was more powerful but not as much fun, the 500 kept breaking down (ignition issues) and the 750 just wanted to kill me. This is also my first Hasegawa bike kit, and it is a beauty! The build and fit so far are superb and the separate parts are going to make the build a lot easier. The plan is to build it as my KH looked, so mine was Candy Cobalt Blue and completely stock, albeit with flatter handlebars. I also have the Hobby Design PE kit for it and I am going to add the bits that are missing, as I still have the Haynes Workshop Manual, so this will include the auto-lube cables and a stab at the wiring loom too amongst other things. So far, I have made a start on the cylinder barrels. The fins have been thinned to remove the joins and the crankcase has had the access way for the oil pipes opened up and the moulded engine bolt removed and replaced with an alloy tube. This shows the before and after on the barrels, the right is without any work: This is the crankcases: From the box: Oil lines are some MFH fine brown pipes with thin wire threaded through so that I can shape them to route along the crancase below the carbs, the bolts are MasterClub 1.0mm resin bolts through some 1.2mm tube: And this is them placed for dry-fit purposes. The molded bolts are removed and drilled out, also the original holes for the clutch and oil lines are plugged so I can use thinner wire than what comes with the kit: This is the case halves assembled with the replacement bolt: I also have been working on the wheels. There is a lot of chrome in the kit, and if you want some sprue-shots I can post them. I have removed the chrome from the hubs by creating a plasticine well for keeping the bleach away from the rim. I also am planning to next write a separate WIP on the methods that I used. But this is the rear wheel before, during and finished for comparison. These are the wheels with the hubs stripped of chrome, just dry fits: I started by removing some of the spokes and replacing with 0.5mm piano wire with 0.8mm aluminium tubes cut to 1mm lengths for the furrels, these are on the left side. The hubs have been painted with AK Xtreme Metal Matte Aluminium: Just steel spokes and now quite flimsy: Finished: I have some tyre valves on the way, so that and the brake and rear sprocket need to be added at a later stage. Front wheel is next and then if the weather allows, some paint on the engine parts. Thanks for looking. Tony

Hi all, Long time lurker and on and off modeller for 25 odd years. I thought I'd share this project I have been procrastinating on for a few years now, I figured by sharing my progress it would give me more motivation to keep going with it. I have made decent progress so far, I will share pics of where I am up to shortly. I am using Tamiya paints, rattle cans and brush mostly. The kit: Upgrades I have bought to enhance the model include the Tamiya detail up kit, tobacco decals, carbon decals:

Scale Motorsport is re-releasing the 1/12 Porsche 935 Super Detail Kit SMS 935 Super Detail Kit

R-33K Protocol Droid Bandai 1/12 Another repaint of Bandai's C-3PO to add to the collection (I still haven't built this kit as it's intended subject yet). As with the previous ones, this is a non-movie droid of my own design by the name of R-33K, or Reek to his friends (if he had any). He's clearly not had the best of lives, and is probably even more decrepit and useless than Boris. No real modifications to the kit apart from the various hacks and gashes, and the missing arm, the joint for which was made from spares box bits and a few lengths of wire. Thanks for looking Andy

Hi guys, This will be a gamble if I can finish it, But I wanted to build this model for a special friend. She loves Motorcycles and specially a Harley Davidson. So here are the pcitures of the box content. As I pulled it out of the stash I noticed that there were some parts already from the sprue and the wheels were made up. I bought it this way. If not mistaken for 20 quid. So we will see if I can manage this one as well. Cheers,