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LongMan2

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About LongMan2

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tormented "HELL"
  • Interests
    1/48 & 1/72 aircraft for me.

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  1. Hi Woody37, Yeah its an option using the kit exhausts...I'm still debating on that one. I'm still fool'n around with the messed up wings and that is a pain. Keep up the good work. PHIL.
  2. Hi Woody37, Yeah its the Boulton Paul "D" type turret, and its different to the Lancaster rear turret, yet was fitted to some Mk IIIs. No Liberator rear turret was ever used operationally...yet I remember text saying it was considered somewhere for Halifax's when the "D" rotated, because of shuddering and poor ammunition feed (coastal command)? I think parts from a Me410 were used helped solve this at BD? I have photos and drawings of type "D" if you need them. Yeah you waits till you get to that bomb bay and the split door alignments. I figure you have that already worked out m8! Just a thought...I was wondering if you could use US bomb racks in the wings ? This is going to be fun................not! PHIL.
  3. Hi Woody37, Yeah I tried fool'n around with the Tamiya engines buts its the molding for the porcupine exhausts with the breather pipes that will be in the incorrect position. The 5th Tamiya Beaufighter engine will allow you to cut out and mod the molding and put the exhaust in the correct position. Yeah it is a lot of trouble yet it is a distinguishing feature of the Halifax with the Herc's. We must build to the prototype Mr Woody37...after all it is scale modelling; however its your kit......so its what ever you wish to do. Don't forgets to notch the flaps if your gonna drop em. And there is bumps over the elevators where they meet the fuselage...which might be some sort of hinge location? I likes the Defiant turret which helps a huge amount. Don't forget to reduce the framing..and its height as its one of the problems if you use the Airfix kit. I'm not sure about the undersized rear turret...but I think some Halifax had a Liberator rear with twin .50cal but not sure you want to do that. My be Mr. Airfix will give us a new 1/48 scale Halifax for $350 ...by the time you finish this..lol! I'm not sure about the nose on the FM kit...that may be a whole-nother-yory. I've still gots that thump'n headache... PHIL.
  4. Hi Woody37, Hmm, Mr Eduard again...will have to look into that one. I find it tough with some of Eduards early stuff to get it to fit. Wish they would jack up the 1/72 Revell Halifax bits to 1/48...but I'm dreaming there. I'm still stuck on the outer engine nacelles because FM seems to have got it a little confused somewhat. I'm looking for wood to make a master for a vac of those parts. I'm prob gonna have to vac a lot of parts for this build because of parts being not what they seem. Need to source some decals as well...don't know what Halifax I will end up with...lol. Them Tamiya Beaufighter engines make a world of difference except when it comes to the APU nacelle which the exhaust is on the opposite side. Turn'n it upside down won't work so each engine XVI will have to be modified, which is a pain but its better than the FM engine build. Was thinking of gett'n a 5th engine to help out with bits for that one. Keep up the good work...I gots a headache! PHIL.
  5. Hi Woody37, Nice work keep at it M8. Was wondering where you gots the bomb racks? To Tonyot : It looks like the bottom pic is from the original early Mk III which was converted from a Mk II. The pic looks to staged? to be a squadron ready aircraft IMHO. The bomb bay next to the engine bay on a Mk III and later marks was designated for a emergency fuel cell. The rack of incendiary bombs with the ground crew man has both his hands on is obviously not the red fuel cell. Phil.
  6. Hi Woody37, Gee that’s your wife….she looks like your daughter! Hmmm………..the things we do for love and it looks like you two had a great night. My Halifax kit wings are giving me trouble....stuck'em together and both are different. I guess that's what you get with a limited run kit. Ok back to the serious stuff. Good work there on the wings. Gee I can never get those rivet lines straight with my huge hands so I think I will leave’em out on mine. I was wondering if you Halifax buffs know what angle those Herc’s stick upward from the center-line of the wing airfoil. Seems FM forgots to do this? My Halifax kit wings are giving me trouble....stuck'em together and both are different. I guess that's what you get with a limited run kit. You never cam over and looked at my build on HS Mr. Woody? Keep the good work up ...M8! Phil.
  7. Hi Mr. Woody37, Its look'n good there woody and I like the idea of adding to the wing root for strength. I hope you take a look'ie at the rear elevators and do some strength'n up there to. I carried my main spar all the way to the inside of the wheel well and spare/auxiliary tank in the 3rd bomb bay position. Effectively creating a wing box... Yeah its moving along nicely. Phil.
  8. Hi Woody37, Yeah you is do'n it M8! Oh you prob know this by now but all the detail FM put in the kit is dubious to say the least. The bomb bay is a joke and so are the end bulkheads. I suggest getting the Haynes book on the Halifax which has a (shop drawing) of the bulkheads and bomb bay. Or someone might post a plan image for you...as photos just confuse me. I think there are 15 bulk heads but who knows...Gee and I thought a Lanc bomb bay was complicated. IMPORTANT - Another thing, I found out this the hard way...any pressure points on the FM plastic with cause it to shatter/crack. A guy on FineScale built the beast and it shattered, not at the glue seam but next to it between the top turret right to the tail. I guess it was the high stress point. The FM plastic is way to brittle (too much heat?) for my liking so remember everything you design to support the air-frame must not be FM plastic or put pressure on the FM plastic it at any joint. A tight fit is not recommended with this plastic. Never beat the thing into submission as it will fail on you even if you think your've won. So don't squeeze the thing treat it like a lady. The plastic is that BRITTLE!. I found Revell Contacta "professional" to be the best glue when glue'n this FM white plastic but there are times when I use ZAP products POLY-ZAP to deal with most probs that need strength. But you will prob use your fav ...glue. Cleaning the surface before doing anything to remove mold release helps with the clue'n and paint'n buts that is basic and you know that by now. Yeah my fuselage at the rear is twisted and I don't know what I will do to straighten it. Like I said any undue pressures with cause the FM plastic to shatter/fail. May be I should go back to my Mig29. Best of luck. PHIL.
  9. Hi Woody37, I'm still in the component stage of my build...its my pick-up-model..LOL! I think if you view the FM Halifax as a vac-u-form kit even thou it is a injection molded one...it helps. Look, I don't blame anyone who puts this kit on the shelf of doom because it is a pig to build...not sure if that's FM fault or the current lazy build by numbers /assemblely which is the current vogue in the hobby. In order to put this Halifax next to other more modern kits it will require a lot of work and money. As far as shape issues go...where do I start! I think getting hold of the 1/48 Scale MAP plans is a good begining as it look the best image of a Halifax MkIII. As long as you stick to those you should get the basic design of the Halifax right. I remember Halibag Phil's, build of a resin MkIII here and I wish I had all those resin and photo-etch parts he did...and I wonder if he ever finished it? There are some parts in this build I will have to get cast in white metal and some need photo-etching, because I don't know of any other resource for the parts. So it will be something new to me...to learn those skills. The best tip I can give anyone building a FM kit is to clean up and straighten all the parts before you do your final assembly if you just wana build the kit. By doing that you can get an idea what will work and what won't. Keep going with it Mr Woody37. PHIL.
  10. Hi Woody37, You asked, "The bit that threw me last night is the angle of the wings where they butt against the fuselage, they aren't at 90 degrees to the wing, rather they cause the wing to angle down. Is this the same on yours?" The answer is "No" if I might explain, the wings on the FM Halifax are short in span coupled with the thin fuselage plastic walls it makes it tough to get alignment true and straight. I used a machinist square to get 90 at that critical joint. The 2x 80thou spacers and the internal 1x 80thou filler makes for a strong even base to align the wings. Yes the bomb bay is critical to provide support to the whole aircraft so spend some time on getting it right and true. Too thin a width bomb bay and you will get an alignment problem with the main wings because of the thin FM plastic in that area. What I'm having a problem with is the rear fuselage is twisting because again of the very thin plastic FM used coupled with their poor care when pulling the molds and letting them cool. I will have to make a gig to support and clap down holding the aircraft straight and aligned when I'm ready. Not to confuse people with two builds here ...I posted just 3 image of my build on Hyperscale as a WIP in "Plastic pic's" to help those whom wish to take on the beast. PHIL.
  11. Hi Woody37, Indeed the fuselage your working with is way better than mine. As we know the reason for the poor quality of the molding is simply FM staff pulled the plastic runners out when hot and deformed when cooling. Every joint needs to be double checked to ensure fit (Square and true) so it makes it a long tough build. For that matter each component clean-up is time consuming and sometimes frustrating so test fitting is essential. The main spar assembly is critical for strength and its key is to ensure when fitted for the proper width for the wing bays and depth for the main bomb bay. Also one needs to build up the sunken wing form in each fuselage half to allow for a curtain blanket of card for the side wall of the bomb bay. The Halifax truss web spar arrangement is visible at every wing opening. I intend to get the top wing aligned and square (including the correct width for span) before attaching bottom wing, spar, and bomb/wheel well boxes. It appears some kits are better than others...when it comes to this FM Halifax. The colours for the FM decals is simply off...as we know. There are other aftermarket companies that produce 1/48 Halifax decals but I have no idea of their quality. I have early pictures on my Photobucket page but they are locked and wouldn't help with your build. Your working with someone else's build and doing your own thing...and I don't wana seem to hijack your thread. Your doing well...keep going. PHIL.
  12. Hi Mr Woody37 What I've found is the best reference book is the Haynes book on the Halifax, it seems to have the best reference material all gathered in one place. As far as the rear turret goes...because of the dimension problems with the rear of the FM Halifax's the vac-u-form clear turret is dimensionally off (yet its with all their vac clear parts). Its under sized somewhat in width and length. But if it doesn't worry you just rock on. I wish there was a replacement kit for the turret out there but there is not. I believe some Greek guy did a MkII in 1/48 and he may have a WIP construction photo/drawing (before paint) of that turret...it may help. A balsa or card master is a good start just for getting the dimensions right...At looking at my fuselage it looks a little fat scaled up from my Revell 1/72 kit....so check the width before you glue it together. Once you start it.. it all starts moving quickly. I talked about the new Revell Beaufighter 1/48 engines they are really terrible (shame Mr Revell) except you might be ale to play around with them by cross fitt'n with some Tamiya engine parts. That inside engine which powers the APU has the exhaust on the opposite side to the other three...so because of the breakdown of the Revell engines it might make it possible. I do like the rear of the Revell Beau engine and the flared cooling gills...which many Halifax are seen with. I think Tamiya Beaufighter hubs is a start for the props...I got Roy to cast some few parts from masters I made but he may have thrown out the silicon molds. I believe as far as the porcupine flame dampers go...MDC did some for their DB-7/Boston night fighter conversion in 1/48. Not sure of their accuracy but its just a suggestion to get over that hump. Again you would need 4x of them...and a resin cast. The Tamiya Lancaster could provide you with better seats and I believe there are 1/48 resin radios etc from cutting edge....and a lost-wax-brass Lewis gun. A cleaned up Beaufighter control stick and rudder pedals could be used? The Norden bomb sight is a whole other issue in 1/48 and because of that big clear nose I know of no other resource for one. The new 1/48 HK B-17 possibly... Not sure about this one....but I think 1/72 Beaufighter activation arms for the elevators could be used for the elevator trim tabs for the Halifax MkIII? The bomb bays (wings and fuselage) is a whole other issue and would require scratch-building to get it right. Shame Eduard couldn't enlarge their 1/72 sets to 1/48 for the Revell 1/72 BIII...but that is only thinking allowed. The bi-fold doors need vac u form'n. I wish I had access to good 1/48 decals here in OZ as I was think'n of doo-n an Aussie Halifax MkIII... Best of luck. Phil.
  13. G'ady Woody, Just wanted to put you in the picture Mr. Woody. I like your attitude it needs to be commended. "I'm not going to aim for complete accuracy" are good words, simply because I believe every kit we build leads to more skills and knowledge. So I believe one can't be wrong with what ever one does build. I find there are too many who walk around tables and say to their friends I don't like that colour of the nose radio antenna or the shape of the propellers...just for their own self indulgence that they weren't the first to build that kit and finish it. I might see if I can get hold of some Revell Beaufighter engines here in the land of OZ...but seriously the wizards price of that kit is just to disturbing to trash it just for the engines. I'm not sure if there are parts from other kits that could be used...such as the turrets, wheels, and exhausts...maybe some one here could help out with that. Yeah that wing spar is key...many larger kits of mine split at that top fuselage join line because of the moving around and just its self weight putting pressure on the plastic. I'm sure there is gonna be a pile of plastic on your table after this one. Onward to the light....lol! Phil
  14. G'day Mr Woody37, Yeah your gonna be in for a ride with this one. I suggest looking for my posts on here for the FM Halifax and it will make things clearer...somewhat. To put it plane and simple the kit is a mess but you get what you get with a FM kit. I have the MAP plans in 1/48 scale and it is clear the people at FM didn't know what they were doing when they cast this kit in plastic. Lots wrong but it is a starting point to something special if you are willing to persist. The whole kit is under sized down the length of the fuselage and the wings short in span. I made the mistake of using the UK based Halifax as a starting point ...and its crystal clear that was a big mistake. The only true Halifax is the rebuild in Canada... SO any reference material/photos/drawings to the UK based Halifax/Hastings/JTTM should be discarded. The engines are a big problem as the FM kits are simply not round at least in my sample. I would use the new 1/48 Revell Beaufighter engines (with some mods) as the Tamiya ones are just to difficult to attach and get the exhaust right for a Halifax. I put mine on hold until I can afford 2x Revell Beaufighter kits...as they are well over $100 AUD each where I am. I made a posting on Hyperscale with my engine mount design for the Tamiya Herc engines if that is any help to you. FM plastic is horrible, brittle and has multi thicknesses... The clear parts need replacing or vac your own as their shape is way off... Unless you are trying to prove something and have lots of time I would bin the FM plastic mess. Maybe HK might do one in 1/48...but then one would be playing a waiting game. Good luck! PHIL.
  15. Hi Ced, Yeah the SR-71 was remarkable for its time. However the Russians are claiming a pair of Mig-31s took one out in the early 80's I believe. There were many sightings of those drones...I believe as UFO's (those words again) by airline pilots. I did a pencil and gouache drawing in the 80's which hangs on my den wall here of a SR-71. Was lucky to find a 1/48 kit of the SR-71 while I served time in the USA with a resin cockpit and wheels. One of the things I was going to try was to replicate the wet surfaces of the aircraft. No one seems to do that for some reason...its just plain black. A good primer (Tamiya) on a cleaned surface will be a decent start I'd imagine. According to accounts the plane would physically grow because of the air friction at speed, so when it cooled down there were some wide panel gaps. Crews would need to use special tools to service the aircraft...because of the tough titanium. It is alleged one can't start a fire with a match under a SR-71...however if you light a t-shirt and drop it into a puddle it might be interesting...their rocket juice must have had a high ignition point. Watch'n with interest... Phil
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