Phil @ Flory Models
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Posts posted by Phil @ Flory Models
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Compressor w/Air Tank/Reg & M.Trap for 160 not bad
I have been using these for years ( I have two ) no fuss 3.5l tank and the only thing that has gone wrong is the bearings which only costs a fiver and ten minutes to fix.
http://www.ripmax.com/item.asp?itemid=T-RC...mp;Category=140
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An outstanding build there Darius.
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A bit of a collection done for VFA-102 Diamondbacks last year.
The VFA-102 Diamondbacks - 50th Anniversary DVD can be see here in two parts.
for part 1for part 2 -
This is a f-15C Eagle I did a few years ago. As far as I know it was donated the fighter museum in Elmendorf, Alaska.
Sorry it's gray, but I thought it needed a airing
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Read my how to, I have just spent all morning on it.
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Every one bored yet?
OK panel lines, I think most modelers make to much out of a simple processes. It seems to cause no end of problems to the beginner. I think this is because people over complicate the process, this is how I have been doing it for the last ten years and never had a problem.
This is my own mix that has taken some time to get right. It's a clay mixed with a few other things pixie dust etc.
Firstly make sure the model is completely dry, this is a must or the mix will weld itself on. It doesn't have to be a gloss Finnish in fact this works just as well on a mat finish.
Then using a soft brush slap it all over the model.
It will dry in about half to an hour, if you get areas that don't dry, a blast from the airbrush speeds things up
When dry it can be removed, don't worry about leaving this stuff on as I have left it on for three weeks to see if would come off OK which it did.
Next it's time to remove the clay. Using some good quality kitchen roll, which I cut into small squares, I lick to moisten, just a little a wipe off, that simple.
If needed use circular motions to remove the clay.
Use a cotton bud to get into the corners and tricky areas, then go over the model again to make sure you got it all off. If you do take it out of the panel line just re apply again.
Then the same thing for the rest of the model.
Remember to get it off any areas were you don't want it as when the model is given the required finished coat (Matt, satin or gloss) the clay will darken making it stand out a lot more.
Next its a mat coat to seal the clay and model for further weathering.
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Sweet!
.....but are you sure that's the correct wing blah blah blah blah blah blah ? (sorry, slipped into Hyperscale mode then!)
........probably is....just felt like adding a bit of cheap satire!Wonderful as usual!
Any wing that gives lift and doesn't fall off is the right wing
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Very nice Bill,
I had an idea for a sabre for the cold war group build.
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Mike, i switched from Enamels to Acrylics and never looked back. They dry fast, spray on nicely and don't clog as long as you use a few drops of flow enhancer ( e.g Windsor and Newton comes to mind ).
About Xtracrylix...dogs bottom, sorry, clogged my Badger 200NH and 100XF repeatedly every 30 seconds!! :banghead2: . Wont touch the stuff now.
Give Tamiya or Gunze a try, haven't had any problem with them.
Also, Lifecolor have an extensive range, nearly 200 colours, most FS equivalents.
Spot on about Xtracrylix, Tamiya or Gunze are the best then Vallejo model air.
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I did have a Aztek 470 but with the amount of work it would do, about 3 hours a day, I used to go though one every 10 to 12 month. So I bought a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution which came with a 0.2 and 0.4mm needles, for a £100.00 It's been the best, easy to clean and I'm still on the original needles.
Also I use a ripmax compressor with a regulator and moister trap. I replace the barrings every year when it starts to get loud and Ive had it for 3 years at only £150.00.
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Ooh! I do like the Lightning, the grey Phantoms, and the Halifax, in particular. And I know someone who would like to know how you did the Hunter - he's trying to do it in 1/144 would you believe!
Cheers,
Chris.
The hunter is done free hand apart from the red to white. White on the nose then yellow, orange, red, white, then the black which comes though as blueover white. The stars were done with a cocktail stick.
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Ok, de masked and gave the model two coats of future and left to dry overnight ( watched Speed and Angels, great film )
Then this morning started decaling it. I use pain warm water to soak the decal and brush the area with the same water. I slide the decal of of it's paper with a brush and place it on the model, I only use the brush to move the decal adding more water to help it move, when i'm happy with it's position I roll a cotton bud over the decal to remove the water. Strait after that I brush on Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners and let it dry, I have found the thinners the best way to stop silvering and sofen the decals.
Heres a few more.
Next is a further two caots of future and left overnight. Then the fun part the sludge wash.
This tail is of a f-16 the first time I tride the thinners and I was amazed how well it worked. To date I havent found anything better.
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Thanks guys,
If you want to see more photos of any thing just shout.
I'm currently decaling the MiG
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Phil, what can one say?
Hey, did you have that Hunter at Telford? I was amazed at the finish and took some pics. Think I even chatted to you.
Anyway gotta teach some of us n00bs you dark arts eh
Sorry that was not my hunter( unless the guy I sold it to entered it)
I have never entered a model show.
I don't know why, but because I get payed to make models for a living it doesn't feel wright.
I see people spending months of there spare time making models for shows and then I come along with a commissioned model which has cost a fortune in parts alone.
No it wouldn't sit wight with me.
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Sorry I forgot these different folder
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You got some really lovely builds there Phil
love the lightning
I had planed to do the lightning in metal Finnish but I ordered then from hannants
So after a week I gave up waiting, so I went for the two tone scheme -
Haven't done to many British aircraft but here some
and ive found a few tanks from waaaaaaaaay back. So what should be next?
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Looking good Jen,
I had I nightmare with mine too, but I love the markings.
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Hers the top sand colour done just the same as the underside:
Next the green thinned down a lot and air pressure to about 5 to 10 PSI. All free hand I have never got on with masking, it never looks right on worn paint. I added more white to the green for a little sun bleaching.
Next it's a coat of future.
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How do you filter your paint Phil? I've been shying away from that, because the things that I was thinking of using would waste too much paint, and although it's not the biggest cost in modelling, it'd eventually add up (and I'd always be covered in paint). I'm sure that some of my older Xtracrylix bottles have some bits & pieces in them that could do with getting rid of - I just need a reliable, clean method.
A bit messy but I use kitchen roll.
I make a small cone, poor thinners first then the paint and let it soak though. I then squeeze whats left back in the bottle. So very little waste.
I have tried a filter funnel I think it was a aztek, but it let me down big time
. Next I tried tights but the same thing plus not my colour and very sweaty :whistling: .So kitchen roll seams to be the only way
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I have had real problems with clogging, But now I filter everything that goes through my airbrush and touch wood no more clogs.
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Nice sprayage Phil... I've not added any post-shading to any of my few yet - frankly I've not trusted either my wobbly hand, or my wobbly airbrush so far. Might give it a try on one of my bigger projects though
Looks nice
To be honest the wobblier the better. If there to uniform they tend to stand out to much and draw your eye to it instead of the overall effect.
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OK, so a quite heavily thinned first coat of blue/gray went on first, and then next a heaver coat.
Being acrylic it dry almost strait away. The second coat went fine so with what was left in the airbrush I added about a third more flat white and thinned heavily.
I then went around the centre of all the panels with the mix to add some tonal variation to the colour. At this point the pre shaded areas really come to life. I will leave it for a hour then mask up for the sand top colour.
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This one is a sod to get going, I'm running out of fingers
........probably is....just felt like adding a bit of cheap satire!
So after a week I gave up waiting, so I went for the two tone scheme 
. Next I tried tights but the same thing plus not my colour and very sweaty :whistling: .
I know it's not British
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
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My clay mix
I don't want to seem mean, but I sell this on Ebay from time to time. The mix is not an exact science and I have to make a few changes to each batch I make. I usually sell it for 4.99 + postage a bottle (which lasts for about 20 to 30 1/48 scale aircraft ) but I will happy do it for 3.99 with free UK postage for britmodeler users.
I do have thee bottles here but I can make some more up which takes a week.
I use thinned down Tamiya smoke X-19 for wheel well, undercarriage etc,
Then it's out with the airbrush and free hand spray the weathering all over the model, lots around the belly and rear.
Then left to dry for an hour.
Time to add the hard points tanks, under carriage etc.
Just all the photo etched parts to go on.
A look in the cockpit, de-mask and install the seat and stick.
Just a few more things to do but almost done.