Phil @ Flory Models

Compressor w/Air Tank/Reg & M.Trap for 160 not bad I have been using these for years ( I have two ) no fuss 3.5l tank and the only thing that has gone wrong is the bearings which only costs a fiver and ten minutes to fix. http://www.ripmax.com/item.asp?itemid=T-RC...mp;Category=140

An outstanding build there Darius.

A bit of a collection done for VFA-102 Diamondbacks last year. The VFA-102 Diamondbacks - 50th Anniversary DVD can be see here in two parts. for part 1 for part 2

This is a f-15C Eagle I did a few years ago. As far as I know it was donated the fighter museum in Elmendorf, Alaska. Sorry it's gray, but I thought it needed a airing

Read my how to, I have just spent all morning on it. http://www.britmodeler.com/forums/index.ph...entry3078

Every one bored yet? OK panel lines, I think most modelers make to much out of a simple processes. It seems to cause no end of problems to the beginner. I think this is because people over complicate the process, this is how I have been doing it for the last ten years and never had a problem. This is my own mix that has taken some time to get right. It's a clay mixed with a few other things pixie dust etc. Firstly make sure the model is completely dry, this is a must or the mix will weld itself on. It doesn't have to be a gloss Finnish in fact this works just as well on a mat finish. Then using a soft brush slap it all over the model. It will dry in about half to an hour, if you get areas that don't dry, a blast from the airbrush speeds things up When dry it can be removed, don't worry about leaving this stuff on as I have left it on for three weeks to see if would come off OK which it did. Next it's time to remove the clay. Using some good quality kitchen roll, which I cut into small squares, I lick to moisten, just a little a wipe off, that simple. If needed use circular motions to remove the clay. Use a cotton bud to get into the corners and tricky areas, then go over the model again to make sure you got it all off. If you do take it out of the panel line just re apply again. Then the same thing for the rest of the model. Remember to get it off any areas were you don't want it as when the model is given the required finished coat (Matt, satin or gloss) the clay will darken making it stand out a lot more. Next its a mat coat to seal the clay and model for further weathering.

Any wing that gives lift and doesn't fall off is the right wing

Very nice Bill, I had an idea for a sabre for the cold war group build.

Spot on about Xtracrylix, Tamiya or Gunze are the best then Vallejo model air.

I did have a Aztek 470 but with the amount of work it would do, about 3 hours a day, I used to go though one every 10 to 12 month. So I bought a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution which came with a 0.2 and 0.4mm needles, for a £100.00 It's been the best, easy to clean and I'm still on the original needles. Also I use a ripmax compressor with a regulator and moister trap. I replace the barrings every year when it starts to get loud and Ive had it for 3 years at only £150.00.

The hunter is done free hand apart from the red to white. White on the nose then yellow, orange, red, white, then the black which comes though as blueover white. The stars were done with a cocktail stick.

Ok, de masked and gave the model two coats of future and left to dry overnight ( watched Speed and Angels, great film ) Then this morning started decaling it. I use pain warm water to soak the decal and brush the area with the same water. I slide the decal of of it's paper with a brush and place it on the model, I only use the brush to move the decal adding more water to help it move, when i'm happy with it's position I roll a cotton bud over the decal to remove the water. Strait after that I brush on Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinners and let it dry, I have found the thinners the best way to stop silvering and sofen the decals. Heres a few more. Next is a further two caots of future and left overnight. Then the fun part the sludge wash. This tail is of a f-16 the first time I tride the thinners and I was amazed how well it worked. To date I havent found anything better.

Thanks guys, If you want to see more photos of any thing just shout. I'm currently decaling the MiG

Sorry that was not my hunter( unless the guy I sold it to entered it) I have never entered a model show. I don't know why, but because I get payed to make models for a living it doesn't feel wright. I see people spending months of there spare time making models for shows and then I come along with a commissioned model which has cost a fortune in parts alone. No it wouldn't sit wight with me.

Sorry I forgot these different folder

I had planed to do the lightning in metal Finnish but I ordered then from hannants So after a week I gave up waiting, so I went for the two tone scheme

Haven't done to many British aircraft but here some and ive found a few tanks from waaaaaaaaay back. So what should be next?

Looking good Jen, I had I nightmare with mine too, but I love the markings.

Hers the top sand colour done just the same as the underside: Next the green thinned down a lot and air pressure to about 5 to 10 PSI. All free hand I have never got on with masking, it never looks right on worn paint. I added more white to the green for a little sun bleaching. Next it's a coat of future.

A bit messy but I use kitchen roll. I make a small cone, poor thinners first then the paint and let it soak though. I then squeeze whats left back in the bottle. So very little waste. I have tried a filter funnel I think it was a aztek, but it let me down big time . Next I tried tights but the same thing plus not my colour and very sweaty :whistling: . So kitchen roll seams to be the only way

I have had real problems with clogging, But now I filter everything that goes through my airbrush and touch wood no more clogs.

To be honest the wobblier the better. If there to uniform they tend to stand out to much and draw your eye to it instead of the overall effect.

OK, so a quite heavily thinned first coat of blue/gray went on first, and then next a heaver coat. Being acrylic it dry almost strait away. The second coat went fine so with what was left in the airbrush I added about a third more flat white and thinned heavily. I then went around the centre of all the panels with the mix to add some tonal variation to the colour. At this point the pre shaded areas really come to life. I will leave it for a hour then mask up for the sand top colour.

This one is a sod to get going, I'm running out of fingers

OK here we go. After a quick check over to make shore all the seams look right and all the panel lines are re scribed, rivets replaced It's time for the panel lines to be pre shaded. Fairly straight forward, I use flat black and follow all the major panel lines on the model and lighter airbrushing for riveted areas. the heavier the black the harder it will be to cover the the following coats. Don't worry about Being neet the ruffer the better as it fads in and out better. I then spayed the fiberglass areas green as found on Russian types, masked off and the a coat of Allclad for the nose ring and exhaust, masked off again and it's ready for the pale blue/gray underside colour. I had every intention to do the blue/gray underside today but seeing as I use acrylic paints I have jet to find Russian colours. So I spent the rest of the day remixing new colours out of Tamiya. So tomorrow I should have the paint work finished. So come back for tomorrows exciting installment