Jump to content

Phil @ Flory Models

Members
  • Posts

    1,722
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Phil @ Flory Models

  1. I'd like one on scratch building the ammo boxes and feeders for the Spandaus on a Revell Fokker DVII please Phil!

    uuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....................................NO

    I was asked once how much it would cost to scratch build the wheel wells and air brake on a F8 Crusader?. I said about an extra £100+ on top of the build or I said I could use resin aftermarket ones for £20!. guess which one he went with. :winkgrin:

  2. I have been fiddling....

    I decided to do a bit of a test with white...(in no way scientific and not on plastic)

    I used a Tea box as it was dark and has a design on it (and was at lying about at the time). It has a silk sheen to it.

    Picture150171.jpg

    From Left to Right, the first card has the top half sprayed with Vallejo Gray primer, it's similar to Halfords grey

    primer but doesn't stink my flat out and i can spray it through my airbrush. I then sprayed one coat of Vallejo 71001

    Model air white over the whole card. then another coat 1/4 up the card and another at the top...you get the idea??

    good!

    Picture150179.jpg

    I then did the same with the next card but used Tamiya Flat white XF-2 mixed about 50-50 with Tamiya acrylic thinners.

    The first 2 cards were both sprayed at 15 PSI

    The final card is 1 coat of 100% Tamiya XF-2 Flat white sprayed at 25 PSI.

    My Iwata has a 0.35 needle.

    Conclusion:

    The Vallejo went on well straight outa the bottle on both primed and unprimed surfaces, about 3 coats would acheive

    good results here i think.

    The Tamiya didn't go on as well on the unprimed surface. This may be fixable by mixing more paint in and with a bit of

    experimenting i'm sure you could get similar results to Vallejo.

    Tamiya Flat white 100% went on quite well(my 0.35 needle probably helped here), a bit speckled and dried as soon as it

    hit the surface, maybe before? but this kinda proves Phil right (I do not in any way shape or form work for Pro Modeller)

    So there you have it... If in doubt, Fiddle!

    Do you want the job then..................

    Oh sorry..... yes so there you have it and if you do a next coat quite thin it will help to give a nice finish.

    Thanks Tim, good job

  3. Ive got them out just for you, dear boy!

    90% paint? you would need a high PSI to whack that load out. I would guess 50psi, Phil?

    Bangers Von Bob

    I've got a 0.2 needle in mine and at about 25psi. If you have a bigger needle set you might need a bit more PSI.

    Give me a few days and I'll do a hi res video on it.

  4. Is that some ace modeller top tip or are you going all Sean-y on us Phil?? :fight:

    Boy wles kybad :deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:

    :whistle: THink i GOt AWay WIth THat ONe.

    ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh CaPs LoCkS :hanging:

  5. But the obvious giveaway is that he left out the Aries F-4 wheel bays, you know , the sort of installation job that only true modelling gods like us can aahive

    I've use them lots of times before, but to be honest the kit parts aren't that bad.

    This is the aires ones on Show time 100

    DSCF3529.jpg

    DSCF3528.jpg

    And this are the standard kit parts.

    DSCF6483.jpg

    So there's not alot in it.

  6. :fight: Look how many times.............................. Spray the fist coat very and I mean VERY thick about 90 paint to 10 thinners at hi pressure. Then spray the second coat 50-50 normal pressure that's it job done, if it's a gloss coat your after the a third coat might be needed at around 40-60.

    Right I'm not saying this again!! (Why you no risson. Basal faulty) :lol:

  7. First time at RIAT last year, and the best £90 I've spent in years, well Worth every penny!!!

    DSCF4765-1.jpg

    DSCF4741.jpg

    Two thing on the hit list this year, RIAT and SMW at Telford (we may even have a stand)

×
×
  • Create New...