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Gold Member
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About TimB

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 29/02/1960

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  • Gender
  • Location
    UK - Somerset
  • Interests
    Rotary Wing, Real Space, Harriers, and aircraft photography!

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  1. Hi, Keith, if it helps, here is my list for the Dragon 1/72 LM Ascent Stage: Middle section sides taper - should be vertical. Probably too difficult to fix. Windows too shallow - need extending down about 1.5 mm No EVA rail Forward RCS clusters wrong. Too short vertically by about 3 mm Should taper to rear Horizontal nozzles are 45 degrees out from the correct angles. Rear RCS cluster should be extened the same amount. Docking tunnel and probe too narrow. Should be 32 inch so 11 mm dia Port side mid section tank cover too low by 1.5mm - horizontal top should align with bottom line of bulge on forward section. Again, probably too difficult to fix. Port side mid section tank cover incorrect at rear Port side mid section front lower corner needs a facet 2 small protrusions needed on starboard middle section. Umbilical connection needed. "Gills" to be added to forward hatch flanges. By the way, there 2 different versions of the Dragon LM. The J model H model ones have different profiles at the lower starboard side of the middle section. I have a bit of a production line going! I've not yet made all the fixes, but I'm working on it. I wish I could justify buying two more New Ware correction sets, but they are a bit expensive. There have been several cases of one step forward, 2 back but I think that they are now going OK. Trying to review various drawings and on line images has been a challenge, but I think I have the forward RCS quads about right now. I should be able to start painting/foiling soon. Regards Tim
  2. Keith, I'm very impressed. I've been following your work on space-modelers, and the end result is superb. Which LM are you doing as the encore? I'll PM you with some questions on the s on the SIVB, if you don't mind. Regards Tim
  3. Hi, J - my recommendation would be to tread very carefully. It is much less dangerous (to the model as well as you) to use wet and dry paper and primer to sort out the finish. Solvents will work variably depending on the plastic and can cause a lot of damage. MEK is also a very unpleasant solvent to use. The only time I use it - with good ventilation, a respirator and in small amounts - is to attach polystyrene to ABS. Regards Tim
  4. Very nice build. Well done for getting the look of the beast. Regards Tim
  5. TimB

    Miles M.52 Scratchbuild 1/48

    A very nice build of an interesting subject. I look forward to seeing the next scratchbuild. I'm particularly impressed by the canopy. Well done. Regards Tim
  6. Sorry for the delay in replying. From a quick look at a UH-1e walkaround, the quilting looks pretty flat - ie not sagging or puffy. I'd try plastic card scored with a P-cutter, then washed over with liquid poly. If that is too flat, then the vacuum form route might work, but the quilting would be fairly small compared, so you would need a fine mesh. You might be able to The advantage of both methods over the Green Stuff or Milliput is that you can try several times without lengthy cleanup. I also just tried scoring some lines on a piece of aluminium tape (3M 425 or similar - useually known as "speed tape"). That gives a flexible quilted effect that can wrap round corners. Just an idea. Good luck Tim
  7. Hi, it depends. A lot of the stuff is quilted, but some types have areas of smooth interiors (usually glass fibre). Photos are essential if you cannot crawl over the real thing. Quilted mats can be made by lining the interior with Milliput or similar, then scribing in the lines while the filler is still wet. I used this on some 1/72 Chinook models years ago. Plasticard suitably scribed can also represent flatter quilted sections, and I've used this on Pumas. In 1/32 I've vacuum formed sheets against metal mesh, then cut this into sections. Cardboard can also be used, and craft shops sell embossing tools which I've seen used. The Milliput route works well on the type of cabin liners that sag or look a bit tatty. However, It can be a pain to then get the fuselage sides to fit together afterwards... Regards Tim
  8. TimB

    Revell Tornado F3

    Very nice. My only observation might be to use a lighter wash, but it looks every bit an F3 I look forward to seeing your future builds. Regards Tim
  9. TimB

    Harrier T4 1/48

    Very nice detailing, finishing and diorama. You can be proud of that one! Regards Tim
  10. TimB

    Retired, AV-8A

    That's fun! Very nice idea, well executed. Regards Tim
  11. Very, very nice. I just received the Blue Steel version, and your build is inspiring me... Regards Tim
  12. TimB

    1/72 RAF SAR Leconfield

    Hi, Andy, yes I visited the flight quite a bit from Finningley. The kitplane was interesting and it was always good to divert visitors! Sorry to hear about the way the business went, though. I'm looking forward to seeing how the dio goes. Regards Tim
  13. TimB

    1/72 RAF SAR Leconfield

    Pity to lose the hangar - you could include the home-built aircraft as well! I forget the type, but remember being impressed by what the technicians on the flight could get up to. Regards Tim
  14. That is a very nice rendition of an old, old model. Nice to see the Airfix one getting TLC usually reserved for the Monogram 1/48th one! Regards Tim