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TimB

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    265
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218 Excellent

About TimB

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 02/29/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK - Somerset
  • Interests
    Rotary Wing, Real Space, Harriers, and aircraft photography!

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1,307 profile views
  1. Alternatively, cut the "bricks" to shape or use very thin plastic card... On Harriers I've used both. BTW the real ones were glued on but it was a bit easier in 1:1. The best solution I have seen in PE had protruding pins that fitted into holes you drilled in the wing. Assuming the hole was correctly located, this have a good seat for the superglue, and allowed the right angles to be set on the vortex gennys. Regards Tim
  2. Very very nice. I think the splinter really works well. Nice photos too! Regards Tim
  3. Seat belts - RB Productions recommended. Radiator mesh - RB Productions. Instrument panel dials you have. I suggest that In 1/24th you should be able add almost any other detail you want without without paying lots of brass for lots of brass! I bought the Eduard cockpit set but am not sure it made much difference in the end. Regards Tim
  4. Pliers? I find that adjust, then glue works. Heat up to anneal if they work harden while bending. Regards Tim
  5. Very nice clean build with effective waethering. Well done! Tim.
  6. Very, very nice. Very hard to believe that it is 144th. Brings back memories of watching them at Marseilles airport... Regards Tim
  7. Very nice. I like the way the LM has come out. I'm still working on mine - got distracted by the SV. Regards Tim
  8. The Puma was not a Super Puma but a SA330L. It was eventually re-built as HC1 ZE449 for the RAF and was delivered to RAF Benson in, I think, 2001. Due to its complete rebuild it was probably the best condition HC1 until the ex-South African ones arrived. After an accident in 2009, it was not selected for conversion to HC2. Regards, Tim
  9. Wow, that is a beautifully built and finished model. The weathering, particularly on the upper surfaces, is superb. Truly inspiring. Tim
  10. Very nice, particularly the cockpit. You can be proud of it! Tim
  11. Eric, so sorry to hear your news. Please accept my condolences; I hope that you can find support and comfort at this time. Kind regards, Tim B
  12. Hi, Keith, if it helps, here is my list for the Dragon 1/72 LM Ascent Stage: Middle section sides taper - should be vertical. Probably too difficult to fix. Windows too shallow - need extending down about 1.5 mm No EVA rail Forward RCS clusters wrong. Too short vertically by about 3 mm Should taper to rear Horizontal nozzles are 45 degrees out from the correct angles. Rear RCS cluster should be extened the same amount. Docking tunnel and probe too narrow. Should be 32 inch so 11 mm dia Port side mid section tank cover too low by 1.5mm - horizontal top should align with bottom line of bulge on forward section. Again, probably too difficult to fix. Port side mid section tank cover incorrect at rear Port side mid section front lower corner needs a facet 2 small protrusions needed on starboard middle section. Umbilical connection needed. "Gills" to be added to forward hatch flanges. By the way, there 2 different versions of the Dragon LM. The J model H model ones have different profiles at the lower starboard side of the middle section. I have a bit of a production line going! I've not yet made all the fixes, but I'm working on it. I wish I could justify buying two more New Ware correction sets, but they are a bit expensive. There have been several cases of one step forward, 2 back but I think that they are now going OK. Trying to review various drawings and on line images has been a challenge, but I think I have the forward RCS quads about right now. I should be able to start painting/foiling soon. Regards Tim
  13. Keith, I'm very impressed. I've been following your work on space-modelers, and the end result is superb. Which LM are you doing as the encore? I'll PM you with some questions on the s on the SIVB, if you don't mind. Regards Tim
  14. Hi, J - my recommendation would be to tread very carefully. It is much less dangerous (to the model as well as you) to use wet and dry paper and primer to sort out the finish. Solvents will work variably depending on the plastic and can cause a lot of damage. MEK is also a very unpleasant solvent to use. The only time I use it - with good ventilation, a respirator and in small amounts - is to attach polystyrene to ABS. Regards Tim
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