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As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

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About TimB

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 02/29/1960

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    UK - Somerset
  • Interests
    Rotary Wing, Real Space, Harriers, and aircraft photography!

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  1. Hi, Pete. I use a pipette for the thinner, but don't dip it in the "mix" so it stays clean. Regards Tim
  2. A tip I picked up from a demo at SMW several years ago was to mix the paint in the airbrush cup. Add the thinner then use an old but sound paintbrush to transfer paint to the cup and mix it. It allows very great variation in thinner: paint ratio and allows you to see what the mix is doing. You can test it easily, and if you over thicken it a few drops of thinner can correct it. Your first spray run tends to be a bit more thinner until the paint arrives at the nozzle, but that is not a bad thing. The technique also supports really mixing small amounts of paint for detail work. Of course, if you want a custom mix for a large area you either need to count the brush loads accurately or mix the basic paint first. I found that using this route really helped me take control of the airbrush, and develop a feel for how the different paint/thinner mixes behave. For example, Tamiya with its own thinner does not spray the same as it does thinners with Gunze self levelling thinner, so I change ratios until it feels about right. I pre-mix certain things like Halfords Appliance White, but 90% of my painting is done mixing paint and thinner in the airbrush cup. Regards Tim
  3. Hi. Mike, I have done some 3D printing - mostly with an FDM machine (= squirty hot plastic). It is good for larger items and can print HIPS (=polystyrene) so works with normal modelling glues/paints. I downloaded some very good model engines for a Saturn V, but you can do a lot designing your own model bits. I use FreeCad which has the price advantage of matching its name. It is worth playing with. Building up complex shapes from simple ones is not hard, and there is a lot of help on line. If I was buying again, I'd probably go for a resin printer as these are better for smaller, more complex shapes, but that will probably have to wait for the lottery win... Meanwhile I have several projects lined up that I can do with the current setup. They include NASA Cassini (most of NASA's spacecraft are available as 3D models on their site). Regards Tim
  4. Very nice, especially from the old Airfix kit. I really like the rear jet heat shield - you have done well there. There are lots of other nice touches such as the aim undercarriage doors drooping - very accurate. Well done again. Tim
  5. That is a beautiful clean build. True credit to you for completing it - it is a massive project. I particularly like the batted F1s - I struggled with them while scratching a 72nd SV last year, and did not achieve as good a result as yours. Congratulations again! Regards Tim
  6. There were 2-green camouflaged Pumas in 1994, as I have a couple of photos taken at Odiham probably in July showing XW236 in that scheme. For a number of reasons, the special NI fits were not always documented very well. They tended to be fitted and removed at Aldergrove, were managed on a need-to-know basis and not photographed beyond the need for a configuration record. The NI helo force tended to "do its own thing" in many cases - such as repainting aircraft without bothering to ask for permission. For that matter so did bits of the UK SH force at that time... Regards Tim
  7. I do my images for DIY decals in Inkscape - very like Coreldraw but free. I then print on either a standard inkjet or on a very old ALPS which I am trying to keep going. The resolution on both is not as good as most commercial items, but is good enough for my eyesight. You need to think through how the picture will be produced . Anti-aliasing and non-primary colours will tend to reduce the effective resolution, but if you use a mix of coloured decal, paint and printing you can often get very complex effects that look sharp. Regards Tim
  8. Very nice to see such a unique build, so well carried through. Well done!
  9. Very, very line. You have nailed the look beautifully. It's nice to see a less weathered FGR2 - while the later schemes tended to be dirty, the earlier ones tended to be cleaner - at least as far I remember. Regards Tim
  10. Beautifully clean build. Well done! Very nice photography too. Tim
  11. Very nice models - especially of Surveyor. The diorama works well, even with a bit of artistic license on distances! It is great to see the difference in size of the 2 landers so clearly. Regards Tim
  12. Hi, IPD, welcome! We'll look forward to seeing of your some RS models! Regards Tim
  13. Well, the easier solution is http://www.realspacemodels.com/shop-galapagos/1144-apollo-conversion?category=1%2F144+Converson. That fixes the issues north of the S-IVB. As with any Saturn V, the opportunity to "accurize" to the nth degree is considerable. In my youth I redid most of the stringers on one of them, but now I would probably just add batted F-1 engines (or wrap the Airfix ones in foil). Regards Tim
  14. Hi, Martin, I also saw the scrapped pile! In those days it was possible to drive onto RAF Molesworth on a Sunday, with no guards or barriers, and I can attest to a large pile of aluminium bits that included a lot of F-100 bits in French Air Force colours. There were a lot of Mystere IVs and F-100s all paid for by the US under MAP, that were scrapped when the Mirage F-1 and Jags came in that were flown to Sculthorpe, had bits like the ejection seats removed and then were moved to Molesworth for disposal. Regards Tim
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