Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

TimB

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    291
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

226 Excellent

About TimB

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 02/29/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK - Somerset
  • Interests
    Rotary Wing, Real Space, Harriers, and aircraft photography!

Recent Profile Visitors

1,398 profile views
  1. Also depends on the thinners used. I use Mr Color Leveling Thinner on both Mr Color and Aqueous (and a lot of others). If the thinners are the same, the risk of problems is much reduced. But if you use something like cellulose thinners over Mr Color, then stand by for problems! Regards Tim
  2. I built XR753 23 Sqn A with the white fin after finding a (very) poor black and white photo I took in the 70s at a Leuchars Air Day. See https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X48099. Regards Tim
  3. The actions taken for ac deployed to the Falklands give a clue. I suspect that there was a quick staff read through the then current Transition To War procedures, selecting those that made some sense for limited war. RAF Harriers lost unit markings. That was standard TTW, but I think some codes might be retained, as they help crews work on/get in the right aircraft - especially under pressure! Regards Tim
  4. There is quite a bit of work to do. None of the mainstream LM kits get the shape right, but the Airfix is probably best overall. A reasonable solution is kitbashing the Dragon Ascent Stage to the Airfix Descent Stage. The middle of the Dragon AS is not quite right (should be square in front profile, but its not very noticeable. Vince Meens also has a lot of very good info on his site http://spacemodels.nuxit.net/LEM-24/index.htm. Regards Tim
  5. I use Gunze white as a top coat on occasion, but prefer Tamiya Flat White/White thinned with Gunze Self Leveling Thinner. For larger areas, I decant Halfords white primer/Appliance White. You can spray Gunze over well dried Halfords, but I've had bad reactions trying to spray Halfords top coat over Gunze/Tamiya flat. Hope that helps! Regards Tim
  6. Very, very nice. An inspiring build of an inspiring fictional spacecraft! Regards Tim
  7. Nice job on the Heller/Bobcat T2. I had one on the shelf of doom for many years - after it had been photographed part-made for the cover of an accident report... I never managed to get it to a good enough standard to want to finish it, so very well done on yours. Regards Tim
  8. FWIW, I just sprayed Humbrol Matt Black with Gunze Mr Levelling... worked a treat. Regards Tim
  9. Very nice. Superb weathering, and you have also captured the way the Hun looks on the ground very well. Regards Tim
  10. TimB

    Puma HC-3

    Nice - I had not thought of a fenestron for the "late-life upgrade"! You could have added the caterpillar track undercarriage trialed by Aerospatiale early in the SA330's career. Now if Airfix would just do an HC2... Regards Tim
  11. I finished a 1/72 SV earlier in the year. As a tip for masking the S-1C stringers, I cut evergreen plastic strip into short lengths which I then placed between the stringers to help plug the gaps, before placing tape along the demarcation line. While some touch-up was needed, it saved a lot more. Regards Tim
  12. Watching with interest. I'm normally an air/space modeller, but I have Renown on my to-build list as my grandfather was an engineering officer on her in the early thirties. Regards Tim
  13. Very, very nice. Glad to see a Puma in any variant. Regards Tim
  14. Wow, that is a lovely SHAR. Nice understated weathering - looks very good. Regards Tim
×
×
  • Create New...