Jump to content

Fritag

Members
  • Posts

    3,943
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    31

Everything posted by Fritag

  1. Me too! How on earth did I miss this beauty when you originally posted? Typically great finishing Neil.
  2. Always enjoy watching a Martian construction (a sentence that makes no sense at all out of context) and this is certainly no exception
  3. A Spadbuild and a pair of Tigermoths. It’d be daft to miss out on watching all that wouldn’t it? Rhetorical question…..
  4. Ah - truly British levels of self deprecation there PC. Masterful irony. As t'others have said, good to have you back. Increases the BM average prose quality (BMAPQ) quotient considerably.
  5. The jury is still out. Can't you tell It's all your fault anyway.... And the other one in Ireland. In other news - a brief burst of work avoidance behaviour produced a test fest. L to R frames at 0.2mm (from the first batch) 0.25mm and 0.3mm. Just to see what is the best compromise (if indeed there is a best) between robustness/usability and satisfactory look. I should perhaps say that on delicate pieces like this with minimal cross section/suction effect on printing, the Mars 3 has produced no failed prints using support contact points of only 0.1mm diameter/0.2mm depth and without need for cross supports. It's perhaps such small contact points that has made it practicable to print such delicate structures. No matter how delicate a 0.2mm thin frame might be, the 0.1mm contact point is even more delicate and tends to give way first even with the Fritag ham fisted attempts at separating the print from the supports.
  6. Or: case struck out for disclosing no reasonable cause of action p'raps? Just saying More enjoyable plastic butchery. Perfect to be read with a morning cup of coffee.
  7. Paint. There has been paint. Admittedly not for some little time...but there has been paint Yesterday was a busy day - but the advantage/problem (depends on your point of view really) of CAD is that it's only an icon click between work (PDF/Word) and play (Fusion/Chitubox) and it's easy/too easy (d.o.y.p.o.v.r.) to make the transition. And then it's little additional effort to take a flash drive through to the garage and stick it in the Mars.... So a bit of tinkering was done. A 1mm thick template found itself produced sliced and printed with only minimal Fritag involvement. Created simply in Fusion by sizing a canvas (Fusion term) of some (reasonably trusted/checked against photos of the 1:1) plans to match exactly with a canvas of a plan photo of the kit nose and then sketching the plan nasal curve with a spline. A sort of hi-tech version of tracing and cutting a template from the plan. Either an improvement or an unnecessary complication again d.o.y.p.o.v.r. Shows how much of the curve is AWOL. Shall have to do something of a nose job even if I don't try and match the complete curvaceousness. I could design and print a new nose per @keefr22 but I'm reluctant to do so at this stage cos there's cockpit and nosebay internals in the way. I'll probably build up the absent curves slowly with Mr Surfacer or some such prouduct. I could perhaps print a wafeer theen thin slither of profile - shaped to match the gap between the fuselage and the template in the photo and stick that to the fuselage and use it as a filling/sanding aid..... I also couldn't resist a quick shell-extrude-slice (and somewhat longer print - but that's fire-and-forget) as a proof of concept test of a windscreen frame. Went straight for the minimum thickness I can imagine being practicable - 0.2mm. Jig came in hady for trimming the uncured frame. You get the idea. I reckon it's a player. Not actually as fiddly as I feared. And a little more robust than I expected. Sorry it's not paint chaps.......
  8. Practically perfect (and it’s only a lawyer’s caution that makes me include the word practically in that statement ).
  9. I think you jolly well should be Ian. Seems very advanced to me to be actually producing summat paint-worthy
  10. I feel sort of sorry for the Blue Max…… Awesome test prints - straight out of the gloop as ‘twere. I reckon you’ll find you can use even smaller contact points on the small bits like the tail skid (in particular) and tank where the suction forces will be less. These screen grabs/explanations/mini-tuturials are superb Alan. You’re not to stop them without submitting a written request 2 weeks in advance (don’t expect to receive approval to stop….) Did you leave the stitching extrude rectangular in cross section? or fillet/radius it? Masterful (obvs.)
  11. Good god man, you’ve just bought a silhouette cutter so’s you can do neat roundels!
  12. More like thinly disguised 'hands in the bar'. "There I was, pulling up, banking left - just about to roll over and dive on a FW" Either way it's a terrific base.
  13. Eminently satisfying interiorification Bill. Satisfying to build and satisfying to watch. Luvverly.
  14. Next instalment then. Vac-forming using the printed bucks. Ok so, I've done a fair amount of vac-forming over cast resin bucks using PETg and had experience of the discolouration I've mentioned before, the clouding mentioned by @TheBaron and the bubbles mentioned by @hendie ('the nasties'....(no not Tony and Alan - the discolourations etc.)). My hi-tech solution in the past has been to just keep trying and hope for the best.... Well okay. It was slightly more sophisticated than that. Through a process of trial and error I worked out that I could mostly avoid the nasties by heating the PETg as gently as I could and to the minimum extent consistent with forming over the buck. It's all a bit of a judgment call and more art than science (definitely not the sort of elegant scientifically satisfying solution that would impress a man of Tony's intellectual rigour ) but I've had success with it. Trouble is I'm a bit out of practice; so on the first go I didn't quite heat the PETg enough it and it didn't fully form over the bucks. But interestingly the failure revealed that the layers on the bucks - which frankly I'd failed to see with the mark one human eyeball - were distinct enough to imprint on the PETg! So it was out with the micro-mesh and 10 minutes later attempt no 2 produced this: I use 0.5mm PETg as I've found in the past that with any thinner the sides of my canopies end up too thin and become hard to cut and glue (I like to be able to file/sand the base of the canopy to get the best fit) and with 1/72 scale canopies any with thicker (0.7/0.8mm) the top of the canopy ends up too thick. 0.5mm works according to the application of the Goldilocks principle . My technique (such as it is ) is to put the bucks and PETg into the Dental Vac form machine with the heating element cold or cooled down, and then turn the heating element on and let it heat up until it is just merely beginning to hint at changing colour towards red. If I've left it until it's bright red I turn it off again and let it cool down and start again. If I've caught it right I then raise the cage towards the now barely pink heating element - but never all the way up. I then keep the cage it manually in place and watch the top surface of the PETg looking for it beginning to flex/ripple and subsequently sag. As the heating element continues to heat up I lower the cage to take the PETg further away from the heating element. The idea being to keep the heating as gentle as possible so as to avoid bubbles forming in the PETg and to keep the moulding temperature as low as practicable. I err on the side of the caution. I aim to get a slow controllable sag in the PETg and lower the cage and trigger the vacuum motor when the PETg has sagged to about the level of the bottom of the cage. You want to avoid an uncontrollable or excessive sag (we absolutely need @CedB back for a fnaar or two...) Anyways that's my two pennyworth of faux wisdom I'm not claiming perfect results every time mind. The canopies all benefitted from a very slight polish with Autoglym super resin car polish on the inside to brighten them up (slight and polishable dulling of finish - a sort of not really clouding) - and one of the main canopies had a couple of visible small circles on the very top (maybe caused by trapped air?)- which might polish out - but which I didn't bother to try as this is just the test phase. So - trimmed the base of a test canopy around the buck and tried out the jig.... Accurate trimming of the front and back was what I was after. Seemed to work. Used a sanding stick after the razor saw. Same deal with the windscreen jig (no photo). Fingers crossed and test fit.... Not bad. The windscreen is deliberately a fraction under size as I want to have a go printing a frame for it; hopefully to get a really good fit with the little printed spacer at the front and the fuselage sides, and to give a surface other than the PETg to fill/sand/paint. Small gap at the top of the back of the main canopy. looks like I may have the angle at the back of the canopy buck very slightly wrong. I'm not sure I'll bother printing a new buck/Jig though as the canopies will be posed open and the angular difference won't show. I don't think it's practical to print a frame for the canopy. Might try. Might not. It's the mid point diagonal canopy join tape that bothers me. If I can't print it then I might print a jig to help me mask it accurately. Anyways another piccie. You can just see one of the little circles/bubbles I mentioned, on the top of the main canopy above the rear coaming. This'd be a reject canopy if it weren't a test piece. Windscreen's a bit smudgy from handling - but would polish up nicely. Last one. The canopy/windcreen junction is good. But'll never be put to the test as the canopies will be posed open. Decent clarity with minimal polishing then spoiled a bit by mucky fingers. Be better with a proper polish. And that's were it's at now. Promising on the vac form canopy front. TTFN.
  15. I knew what he meant and that’s the story I’m sticking to…….
  16. Fine detailing G. (Going for economical use of words/punning there…but spoilt it with the wordy explanation )
  17. Agree - very impressive finishing (as ever) Agree; but I also love the first shot - the nose looks like something from an early 80’s Sci Fi movie.
  18. Superb painted markings on the tanks; incredibly neat. All the details work is first class. Standard. Kinda ironic i’nt it? Jag’s had a hook and Crisp’s mates in Naval FJ’s (Sea Harrier) didn’t In fairness the hook was nothing like a carrier aircraft hook; it was there for emergencies only (e.g hydraulic/brake failure/aborted take off/brake chute failure). It was a lot less strong than a carrier hook and the aircraft wasn’t stressed for carrier landings. Also, once it was deployed it was down - and it was an engineers job stick it back up again. There was no question of nonchalantly raising the hook and taxying back to the line as if nothing had happened.... I’m sure that the operating handle in the cockpit will have been painted yellow and black as a reminder not to play with it unless in emergency. But tbh I can’t remember off the top of my head where in the cockpit it was and what it looked like…. Many if not most military FJ airfields had a cable arrestor system called the Rotary Hydraulic Arrestor Gear (RHAG) at both ends of the runway. Many land based FJ’s including the Jag, Tornado and Typhoon had/have hooks to ‘take the RHAG’ in emergency. But whereas a carrier FJ like a Phantom or Buccaneer could if need be take the ’fast’ (touchdown end) RHAG, a Jag could only use the ‘slow’ RHAG at the far end of the runway after having scrubbed off speed as much as possible with the brake chute/brakes/aerodynamic braking. A Jag (and presumably Tornado/Typhoon too) taking the fast end RHAG would be on the fast track to the repair shop – possibly in two or more pieces The French of course trialled a carrier borne version of the Jag (Jaguar M) and there’s some U Tube footage of it being catapulted off and landing on the Clemenceau and taking the wire; but that was a substantially modified aircraft with beefed up airframe/hook combo. End of drift….
  19. Interesting thought Keith. D’ya know I probably could. But I’d then have a join to make good; and I suspect the work would be about the same. Oh; and Bill’ll tell me off for being frightened to exercise even the most basic traditional modelling skills. I’ll leave you to decide which reason is the the most causatively potent Basically that Tony; but I needed to add a cross section in the middle of the canopy, plus a rail across the centre top and also along the bottom corners of the cross sections in order to get the loft to form the right shape. Crazy in the most entertaining way CC Facebook? I’ve come out in hives at the mere thought of it….. But I’ll treasure the day that I learned there was such a thing as reptile heating mats! So then. More virtual as opposed to corporeal modelling; added a rear coaming and finished off the details.. I’m learnings to rein in the desire to produce the best and most accurate CAD model and prioritise what stands a fair chance of being printable and visible at 1/72 scale. Hence the over-scale weapons sight glass supports arms (0.2mm x 0.3mm). Continue to be amazed at what the printer can do…. Rear coaming with weapons sight and weapons sight glass supports. I’m finding that with these small 1/72 parts I can get away with fewer and lighter supports. Saves having to use etch or wire for the weapons sight support arms with the accompanying tricky gluing task… And one without the weapons sight for the Valley Hawk. Beautifully crisp thin edges without need for supports. And dry fitted. Valley Hawk - no weapons sight: TWU Hawk - with weapons sight: Calling the design process finished for them coamings. Just need to print, paint and glue the definitive articles. Next task is to see what quality of vac-formed canopies the bucks I printed off a few days ago will produce and in particular whether I’ll get problems with discolouration. And after that it’ll be attending to the canopy internal structures (blast screen/MDC etc.) Oh - and the traditional re-modelling of the nose contours. TTFN
  20. I’m a happy kindle user. Wouldn’t use it for reference books, but for novels and anything without piccies I reckon it’s brill. Syncs to the iPad and iPhone n’all. Horses for courses mind. Loving the Bill Hunter. Wouldn’t you just love to have some Hunter hours? (and I know Crisp has - rotter).
  21. I’ll look out for one of them. So far I’ve not benefitted from the same in nearly 60 years. Fingers crossed there’s yet time….. Very nice update and splendiferous hookery Tony. I vaguely remember deploying the Jag hook as a last resort on occasion, but that was a feeble structure compared with the Vixen’s mighty retarder.
  22. Terrific work Sam. Superly neat as always. I generally use Dymo tape and a sewing machine needle to start my rescribing chores before using a 0.1 mm or 0.2mm engraving cutter (tamiya or equivilant) to get a nice clean cut. And I’m another who uses TET to seal the engraved lines.
×
×
  • Create New...