Jump to content

ilj

Members
  • Posts

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ilj

  1. obviously, 'sea camouflaged' could refer to any colour scheme appropriate for deployment to a remote island with mostly over-water action expected - for example: blue it constantly amazes me how some people jump to conclusions based on no evidence at all e.g., is there any evidence at all indicating that distinctive Temperate Sea Scheme? nope 'common inference' and 'believed to be' are not part of a rational hypothetico-deductive process speculate away, but we simply do not know, based on the proffered text ilj
  2. the image(s) of the spitfire Vc BR112 X of Claude Weaver 185 Squadron Hal Far, crash landed on the beach at Scoglitti, Sicily 9 September 1942, clearly show an IFF wire running from the roundel to the tailplane
  3. To obtain a usable propellor for my SH model, I ordered and have received a 'Frog' origin 1/72 Fairey Barracuda kit. The diameter of the Frog kits's 4-bladed prop (with some flash) is 51.5 mm, which translated into 'actual size' is 12' 2" 51.5 x 72 = 3708 mm = 12.1654' = 12' 2" The actual size of the prop is 11' 8.5", so the kit prop is scale 5.5" too large (about 104% of correct size). The diameter to aim for is 49.6 mm, a difference of -1.9 mm from the Frog prop - I think with the flash removed and a little careful sanding to adjust this to the characteristic Rotol sabre tipped shape I'll have a usable prop image showing the two props
  4. ilj

    A good mitchell

    The problem is not that the nose weight is causing excessive pressure on the nose gear when the kit is sitting by itself normally. It is when the model is handled and placed un-carefully on a surface on its main gear and swings down onto the nose gear - the momentum (added by the nose weight) then breaks off that very slender styrene part close to the nose wheel. In my experience, being somewhat clumsy, the metal nose gear solves this issue.
  5. ilj

    A good mitchell

    Different modellers seem to have different experiences. The very fragile and spindly styrene nose gear on my Monogram B-25J broke off before the model was even finished, so I extracted it. I replaced it with the white metal part. Subsequently, I used the cast white metal nose gear parts on my two AM B-25s, D&G and I am glad I did. These are working very well with no sagging or snapping off. The styrene main gear legs seem to work just fine for me so they were not replaced with metal. P-38s (Hasegawa and Tamiya) are another example of models I think benefit from metal nose gear. ilj
  6. ilj

    A good mitchell

    Yes, the metal gear legs are a good idea - the nose gear on B-25s is delicate - I've included metal gear in my B-25 models and glad I did.
  7. ilj

    A good mitchell

    I agree with Steve - the Accurate Miniatures items are easy to build. They also have marvellous fine surface detail that is as good as anything coming out today from e.g., Eduard/Tamiya). The engine cowling openings can be fixed in five minutes with a sanding stick. Minor fit problems with the main canopy clear parts and engine cowlings - some careful adjustment before applying cement is all that's needed on that. ilj http://aleutianplanes.com/B-25C_slug.html
  8. Yes, I had to do that too, but that was a minor modification compared to getting the cockpit part to fit between those sidewalls (issue was identical in three of the Classic Airframes issued Vc 'Yankee spitfires' #4152 and one Special Hobby Vc 48051 'Malta defenders'). Alternately, you could sand off parts of the instrument panel and behind the seat bulkheads, but I chose the groove approach. It is like these cockpit parts were made by a team working on a different kit, that's how off it was on mine.
  9. Remember ahead of time, the Special Hobby Vc cockpit parts absolutely do not fit in between those sidewalls without modification. I used a Dremel mounted small circular saw to cut grooves in the sidewalls (after they were glued in place) to accept the cockpit assembly and they had to be quite deep to work, so be prepared (I built four of these). Good luck! ilj
  10. some more observations (walking on thin ice, so might as well dance)... check your references for the fuselage roundel type displayed - contemporary photos of 1942 Malta spits show variation from the early A1 (broad yellow border and small red dot X3 BR126) to another A1/2 (narrower yellow border and small dot TD BR130) to the later C1 type (very narrow yellow border, large red dot TL EP706) dull red spinners (cf. Desert scheme) - these seem to appear on Malta ac more in 1943, 1942 not so much (likely exceptions) - some 1942 Malta spit spinners seem to be black, blackish, some other dark overpaint (one of the Malta blue or blue gray overpaint colours, e.g., X BR112) (b&w images not very helpful!) 'azure blue' - this seems to occur as a possible underparts colour on Malta spits more 1943 onwards (appears as a dark gray in b&w images), images of 1942 ac seem to show many with much lighter coloured undersurfaces (appears as whitish or very light gray in b&w images) that could have been 'sky blue' (light greyish blue, my preference) or Sky. Exception XP EP606 photo shows a dark undersurface colour possibly 'azure blue'. ilj
  11. two observations: the 249 squadron (Buzz's) ac with the T codes may have had these codes in light grey paint not yellow frequent Malta Vc spit configuration: 20 mm cannons in the outer positions only (inner cannon port replaced with a protruding bung or just flush), outer mgs deleted - when the inner cannons were retained the outers always seem to be replaced with the bungs (also frequently seen in Malta Vcs) - ac with deleted outer or inner cannons often retained the full sized wide bulge on the upper wing bay access
  12. my 1/48 scale Malta spits here: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/dusty-blue-hell-spits-malta-1942-43-mostly-canadia-t522178.html ^includes three ac supposedly flown by Buzz, a Vb and two Vcs, colour schemes extremely speculative ilj
  13. To my eyes, Tamiya's XF-53 Neutral Gray is quite dark out of the bottle when compared with contemporary images of most USAAF ac - consequently I add about 10% of XF-2 flat white which looks pretty good even after a top application of Testor's Dullcoat.
  14. It looks like the statement 'Bowery spitfires were painted in the Temperate Sea Scheme' is not backed up by any readily available quotable evidence for perusal. If anyone knows what the evidence is (if there is any), would it be possible to please post here a brief explanation, thank you very much in advance!
  15. Not helpful. I take it there is no evidence available that 'Bowery spitfires were painted in the Temperate Sea Scheme', or you don't know what it is.
  16. Not helpful. I'm going to assume that if the evidence can't be explained clearly here, you don't know what it is, or there is no evidence. You seem to be fairly knowledgeable - would it be possible for you to briefly explain what the evidence that 'Bowery spitfires were painted in the Temperate Sea Scheme' is - is it photographic? Is it written orders? Is it eyewitness accounts?
  17. I'm not seeing this article. What specifically is the evidence?
  18. Apologies for requesting information that may have already been posted here somewhere at some point... but, Specifically, what is the evidence that Bowery spitfires were 'painted in the Temperate Sea Scheme' (which I understand was Extra Dark Sea gray and Dark Slate Gray over Sky)? Examining b&w photographs ascribed to Bowery I see a lot of variation in appearance of the ac and nothing convincingly indicating the Temperate Sea Scheme - so what's the evidence? Is this supposed to be a factory paint job or an overpaint and if so when and where?
  19. Brian Cauci's analysis, which largely makes sense to me, is that most b&w images of 1942 Malta spitfires show very light coloured undersurfaces, far too light to be Azure Blue. He suggests Sky but acknowledges they could also have been sky blue (i.e., some very light blue colour). So, a few 1942 images suggest Azure Blue (dark, darker than Middle Stone even), but most indicate a very light colour, and the difference is obvious. The appropriateness of a blue colour instead of the greenish Sky in the Mediterranean has been widely discussed. This commentary I find useful: "Desert Scheme (1941-45) From 2 July 1942 (AMO A.664/42) the Tropical Land Scheme gave way to the Desert Scheme which is the most well known RAF camouflage scheme for the North African and Mediterranean theaters. The Desert Scheme appears to simply have been a renaming of the Tropical Land Scheme, formalizing the topside camouflage of Dark Earth and Middle Stone that were in place before the accidental inclusion of Dark Green on AMO A.513/41 which was later corrected. A new underside color of Azure Blue(frequently referred to as Azure) was also formalized as an alternative to Sky/Sky Blue although its use probably predates the AMO. Azure Blue was based on a pre-war color (No 4) and was noticeably darker than Sky Blue, being in fact a blue-grey. In black and white photos it would be slightly darker than Middle Stone which makes it easy to distinguish compared to the lighter sky colors that preceded it." http://www.theworldwars.net/resources/resources.php?r=camo_rafww2
  20. ^ excellent summary of Brian Cauchi's informed hypothesizing Mr. Head... technically I think the Desert Scheme was implemented later but the tropical land scheme with its dark earth and middle stone topside was very similar and no need to get bogged down in terminology. I would speculate the underpart colour was more likely sky blue than the greyish green 'Sky', while the spinner could likely have been Sky. I doubt the exact shades of blue gray overpaint or its origins will ever be known. As an exercise in speculation I modelled nine of these ac here: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/dusty-blue-hell-spits-malta-1942-43-mostly-canadia-t522178.html and https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/rcaf-spitfire-vc-malta-1942-1-32-tamiya-conversion-t524599.html
  21. Assuming the colour photo is genuine, my guess (using parsimony) would be as follows: Early 1942 (February 15th ish) , the aircraft left the factory in the tropical land scheme (dark earth and 'middle stone' over light blue, spinner sky, no rear fuselage band) (there was no 'Desert Scheme' at this point, it hadn't been invented yet). Early 1942, BR112 allocated for shipment to Malta. April 14, 1942 BR112 transported to Malta via Wasp, Operation Calendar. Paint scheme judged inappropriate for Malta before or after loading. Spring-summer 1942 at some point, aircraft's tropical land scheme roughly overpainted with an unknown bluish gray colour (Ocean Gray, Extra Dark Sea Gray, Intermediate Blue et c.) September 9, 1942, crashed on beach on Sicily, photo taken showing largely blue-grey aircraft with minimal contrast except for a patch of middle stone on the fuselage spine. ^this model invokes the fewest overpaints, explains the absence of any trace of a Temperate Land Scheme sky fuselage band (band also not seen in carrier loading or Gibraltar images), explains the light Middle Stone patch on the fuselage spine and is consistent with a dark blue-grey spinner chipping pant to reveal sky.
  22. The stated requirement for "duck egg blue" was clearly a statement to confuse the enemy as the colour most frequently used was in no way blue or even bluish. No doubt this saved the lives of many aircrew as their attackers held their fire as they paused to debate the true identity of the codes colour.
  23. The spinner colour was sky (a.k.a., Sky type S') factory applied. The bluish gray overpaint was heavily chipped, revealing it. IMHO
  24. I just got my mail package containing the SH 1/72 Barracuda and examining the plastic, it is apparent that the propellor is drastically undersized. The diameter of the kits's 4-bladed prop, assembled on the hub with the spinner on, is 43.7 mm, which translated into 'actual size' is 10' 4" 43.7 x 72 = 3146.4 mm = 10.3228' = 10' 4" The actual size of the prop is 11' 8.5", so the kit prop is scale 1' 4.5" too small (about 88% of correct size). I can't see any way to fix this with the supplied plastic.
×
×
  • Create New...