Wonker

Hello all, I don't know if this is the right place as I don't really want these 'inspected' and I shouldn't really be brushing shoulders with the elite modellers on here but I have asked a lot of questions (still loads to go) and have been helped by lots of people so I thought I would give something back by giving you all a 'Rainy Thursday Afternoon' laugh. As I said in my intro ( http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76576 ) I have only done 2 kits to date (currently working on a 3rd) and they were done as a result of browsing in Hobbycraft with my 8yr old son. At the time I had not joined any forum or researched anything at all with regards to model building. That means no thinning, no masking, no filling and sanding on the spit, no gloss before decals, no micro sol and set, wrong glue for canopy, no weathering, no aerial wire, generally no clue Anyway here goes: 1. Airfix 1:72 Spitfire Mk Vb starter set using the rubbish little acrylic paints you get with it: 2. Airfix 1:76 Tiger1 Tank (I could have sworn this was also a starter set from Hobbycraft as I know I used those little plastic paint pots again but I can't find it when I search the net?) I had load of fun doing these (which, I hope, is the point) and my lad loves them. I am currently working on another starter set (the p-40e Kittyhawk) using the acrylic paints that come with it and humbrol enamels, again with not much clue in the way of thinning paint but at least I have started to use filler and I am going to get a bottle of Quickshine to gloss before applying decals with the help of micro sol and set. It's still far from perfect but better than these two....I think! I was going to go back and try to improve these 2 by filling cracks, straightening up the yellow leading edge on the Spit, adding the aerial wire etc but I decided to leave them as they are, so that I can use them to compare against If I ever do them again. After the Kittyhawk I intend to have a crack a 1:72 Royal Aircraft Factory RE8 biplane (with all the rigging!), which should be fun Until next time........ Cheers Wonker

Jesus! First 2 builds; they look fantastic. I was going to upload pics of my first 2 builds today but after seeing those mine looks like they were put together by a blind chimp! The 'weathering' on your planes (to my untrained eye) looks brilliant mate. Wonker

I'm in the same boat as you mate; a complete newbie with a million questions. I am only on my 3rd build, the first 2 were done without any research at all, so no thinning of the paint, no filling of gaps/seams, no glossing before adding decals etc). I also feel like a bit of a fool asking 'basic' questions and that's the same on any forum with 'newbies' but I've found the lads on here are great and very helpful and i've also found youtube invaluable. For what it's worth I use Humbrol enamels with a brush (airbrushing is a long way off) and I've been teaching myself how to thin using white spirit. A great piece of advice that you have been given is to use Tamiya masking tape. I bought the 6mm version from hobbycraft and have used it on my 3rd build (1:72 Airfix Kittyhawk). using it gave me the confidence to have a go at painting the canopy; it took me an age to mask but the results were (I think) worth it and that brings me on the 'build time' question. I've seen some brilliant models on here that were built in a day or two but the Kittyhawk has taken me 2 weeks so far. Patience is the name of the game; paint a bit, wait for it to dry, glue a bit, wait for it to set etc etc. A lot of time has been spent on things other than the actual model itself....getting the white spirit, practising thinning, making little stand things out of cocktail sticks and blu-tack, getting some wet 'n' dry paper of various grits, getting a magnifying glass etc etc. (I'm also waiting for Lakeland in Cardiff to get some Quickshine in before I add the decals as I've been told that they should be added to a gloss coat and this stuff is the dog's wotsits.) The advice given in this thread is excellent and there's a lot more like it on this site, try using the search facility and don't be afraid to ask. For my next build I'm going to try a 1:72 WW1 biplane with all the rigging, so you guarantee there's plenty more questions to come. As for your 'weathering' question, well I haven't got a clue....yet! The thought of it sends shivvers down my spine but I would imagine after a couple of times i'll wonder what all the fuss was about. Like I said, I can't be of that much help, i just wanted you to know that there are others in the same boat as you with the exact same questions Cheers Wonker

Thank you very much. Wonker

Any opinions on this fellas. I am itching to start the next one and I don't want to mess it up at the prming stage (as it's the first time I've ever done it). Thanks in advance Wonker

I'm getting near the point where I may be starting my next kit. This time I intend to prime as stated in thread. As I said I have this stuff: (the middle one). It states that it is suitable for Acrylic or cellulose paint. I am using Humbrol enamels! I take it this primer is not suitable and I need to buy something else? Cheers Wonker

Thank you for the reply, I think I went for this glue as it came with the 'precision' thing. I would imagine the liquid poly is more difficult to control? Wonker

Cheers Jonathan....and nice plug I take it that book is answer to all my problems Where is the best place to get hold of a copy? Cheers mate Wonker

I was just wondering if you have used this product yet and what are the results; particularly interested in it's ability on canopies and as a gloss coat before decalling. Cheers mate, Wonker

The problem with not being in any way an expert at this I don't really know what finish the subjects should have, that's why I bought Satin Cote which I though would be a happy medium between the Gloss and the Matt but it appears it's no good to apply before decals. If decals are to be put onto a 'gloss' surface, but you wanted the final finish to be Satin, would you gloss first (with Klear, Quickshine, humbrol glosscote etc), apply the decals and then finally apply the satincote? What would the result be in applying Satincote to a 'Glossed' surface as opposed to applying it to just the (non-glossed) paint? On the Decal solution side of things, what is the difference between Micro sol and set and when and how would they be used? Sorry for all the questions. Cheers Wonker

Ha ha, I've been doing more reading and I can see that there is loads of choice and debate in this department. I think to cover a couple of bases I will get the Mr. Dissolved Putty and the Fine White Milliput. Now I have to find out the best place to get them Cheers Wonker

Thanks for the replies. I think I will get a tube (but where from?) and see how I get on with it. I am only on my 3rd build; on my first (1:72 spitfire vb) I didn't use any and the second (1:76 Tiger Tank) I used a tiny bit of the Squadron white (both kits were from the Airfix starter range). I am currently building an Airfix 1:72 P-40E Kittyhawk and I needed it to fill where the wings meet the fuselage and a tiny bit at the front so hopefully the Vallejo Putty will suffice for that. As to thinning (or softening) what I currently have (Squadron White), 'Mollythedog' and 'ben_m' mentined that it can be done with Liquid Poly, Is this the same as the Humbrol Poly Cement I am using? Many thanks Wonker

Does anyone have any comments on the 'anti' Vallejo putty thread I linked to above? Are they talking about the same thing? If so, has the product improved? Can anyone who spoke highly of it send me a link to the correct stuff so I know what I am getting is is good? Many thanks Wonker

I don't have any decal solution so are you saying that I would be better to put the decals straight onto the finished/painted model before applying the satin cote or It would be better to put the Satin cote on first, just not as good as if it were gloss cote? Cheers Wonker (I probably should just get hold of some decal solution, wouldn't know where to start though!)

Thanks for the response. What would I thin this with, white spirit? Is there really that much difference between the Satin Cote and Gloss Cote so that you can apply decals to one but not the other? I'll avoid the canopy Cheers Wonker

I've just read this thread on here about Vallejo Putty: Vallejo Plastic Putty, Anyone used it?. Which has put me right off; I know the thread is old so have things changed since then or are they talking about a different product? Cheers Wonker

Thanks for the quick reply Kev. I have some 1500 but I think I will get some 2000 and I take it I use it wet or does it matter? Cheers Wonker

Hello, Another novice question I'm afraid. I have bought a jar of Humbrol Satin Cote that I will use as 'varnish'. Does this product need thinning (I use brushes not airbrush) or can I just brush it on? Can I paint it over the canopy? Also, do I apply a coat before putting the Decals on and if so, how many coats would I need (I don't have any other 'decal' product such as Micro sol, or 'set' as I don't really know what they are!) so will the Satin Cote help with decals? I would imagine I need another coat after I have applied the decals? I have probably bought the wrong thing Thanks for the help. Wonker

Going back to this piece of advice, for clarity do I: 1. Wash everything on sprue in a bowl of warm soapy (fairy liquid). 2. Dry (paper towels?). 3. Spray with primer (after removing all the various pieces). 4. Wipe over with Wet 'n' dry paper (used wet) with a grit of 1500. 5. Wash again with warm soapy water, obviously for the assembled fuselage with cockpit fitted (which was masked before priming) I wouldn't wash in a bowl but just brush wash with warm soapy water. Is this the correct process? Many thanks Wonker

So I'll just get the vallejo putty then.

I've been reading in various places about Superglue and Baking Soda! Does anyboy on here use that method?

Cheers lads, I think I will invest in some Vallejo Putty. As for the advice about mixing the Squadron with liquid poly to soften it up, is this the stuff you mean: This is what I am using at the moment or do you mean something else? Cheers Wonker

Afternoon all, In my attempt to try to get some of the right equipment before I plough on with making models, I watched a video on youtube about Squadron White Putty: After making my first model with no filler (didn't realise you had to as I was slightly more clueless then than I am now ) I decided to try to do it better next time and purchased a tube of the Squeadron. The problem is I am having a hard time with it; I only need it for seams (where the wings join the fuselage etc) and maybe some other minor discrepancies with the kit but I am making a right mess. The stuff comes out quite dry and it is hard to get into the nooks and crannies...especially for a novice. Is there any (easy) way of softening it up so it goes on more like a paste or should I just put it to one side and get another type of filler (there seems to be so many variations ) such as the Vallejo putty which I have read about on here in a few posts? Cheers Paul

I know what you mean about overkill. A lot of people reading these posts are probably wondering how I'm making such a big deal about a simple subject! I think I will follow the procedure I wrote above: 1. Remove main 'big' bits (sorry for the technical terms ) - fuselage, wings from the sprue leaving just the 'little bits' - pilot, wheels etc on the sprue. 2. Spray the sprue (complete with little bits) with primer - I would imagine this is easier than removing the little bits and priming individually? 3. Paint the little bits 4. Glue the Fuselage halves and wings - obviously including the painted cockpit/pilot and, in the case of the Kittyhawk I am doing, the propeller (I still can't see how I could add this last?). 5. Fill and sand as required. 6. Mask off the cockpit area, propeller, intakes and any other painted bits. 7. Prime the Fuselage and wings. 8. Paint the Fuselage and wings. 9. Add all the other 'small bits' - wheels, aerial, canopy etc 10. Add decals. Maybe some of the bigger 'small' bits such as the pilot I will remove and prime individually but the rest I will prime on the sprue. I know I will have to address them again when I have removed them from the sprue and filed the flash away (but on bits that are a couple of mm thin and wide do I really need to prime the tiny area I have just filed after removing from the sprue? - this is the overkill I was referring to!) Thank you all so much for you advice on this subject and I am now clear on what I will do with my next build, which happens to by a 1:72 WW1 biplane, so you can imagine the questions I have next! Cheers Paul

If I understand you, the small parts that need to be glued (pilot to seat etc) will not glue properly if I have primed them first? I suppose I could work out where exactly the glue would go and add the blu-tack to those areas which would then act as a mask and be used for stability whilst priming? How do you manage when you prime the main parts when it comes to the areas that the small parts will be attached (if that makes sense?), for instance the 2 small areas on the underside where the wheels sections will be glued or the tiny holes where any guns or aerials will be attached? Do yo mask those somehow so that the small parts can then be glued without problems? Many thanks Paul