fingers
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Posts posted by fingers
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Thanks Dave. They both have their good points, but if I buy another it will be the Meng. As good as the Takom one is, I can't justify paying nearly twice the price for it.
In general, the differences are:
Tracks - They both look the same when assembled, but Takom's are far more robust during handling and painting.
Construction - Both similar. Meng use fewer parts for the hull, which makes aligning everything easier. They did make one minor mistake on the tooling. The hole for the radiator filler cap on the bonnet is only half moulded and needs opening up. I didn't do it on this one as it was a review piece and was built OOB (and also because I forgot).
Accuracy - Apart from the above issue, they're both pretty much correct.
Details - Again, both are good, but the Meng one has the on board tools. Takom only has empty clasps.
Markings - Probably better choices on the Meng decal sheet, but for some reason they only show two of them in the guide, so you'll need to do a little research. Most of the supplied options are shown in the New Vanguard books on the Whippet and the Russian civil war.
Andy
Thanks for the mini review Andy, It's always useful to get a genuine modellers opinion especially one whose done such a good job with both kits.
Dave
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Really lovely work, you can't beat rivets.
Have you come to a conclusion on the better kit?
Dave
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BRIEF STATEMENT ABOUT BLACKBURN BUCCANEER PROJECT.
Dear forum members and our friends;
First of all, thank you all for your interest in TANMODEL brand and our projects.
Yes, we are planning to release Blackburn Buccaneer S.2 kit and we made some progress in 3D design. However we will release this project in 1/72 scale.
Regards,
TANMODEL
Does that discount a 1/48 in the future?
Dave
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Agreed, we need a decent 1/72nd Bucc more than we need a 1/48th one!
On this we must agree to disagree.
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Obviously a very good primer: will prepare any surface (including the inside of an airbrush) ready for painting, and won't easily be removed. What are you complaining about!
Please read original post, no complaint about the job it does, I just want to know a less toxic product for clean up.
Dave
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!/72................... No........................Time to kick the cat I feel very despondent.
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How stinky was that?Stynylrez primers do seem to cling to airbrush parts and I've had to do thorough cleaning as well. Yesterday, I used window cleaner (the ammonia kind) and it broke it right up.
Dave
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I've tried Ultimate cleaner with limited and not acceptable results, vallejo cleaner the same, even tesco household cleaner but nothing shifts it except cellulose thinners or a strip and bath in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Dave
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Hi guys.
I must agree about stynylrez being an excellent product in use (it sprays beautifully, dries quickly, sands well and polishes to a good gloss).
But, for me, it's a devil to clean out of the airbrush to such an extent I've been using cellulose thinners which I don't want to.
Anyone got a magic answer to this problem?
Dave
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Email update worked for me.
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Just done it on the Eduard Dauntless let's see what happens.
Dave
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A very good explanation, thank you, however, it's a bit steep to refer to people as idiots because they don't have technical understanding to such a matter. Incorrect, perhaps, not necessarily idiots
Thank you Woody I feel less idiotic by the second
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1/48th Buccaneer!
It's really about time we get a new Buc in quarterscale.
Reg. Jeroen
No brainer really
Dave
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Okay now to give a slightly different method, I use a scalpel with a curved blade (No 10 I think) starting from the remaining good panel line I carefully rock it until the tip enters the other good panel line thus making a fine line, I then take another curved blade which is blunter and has been roughly sharpened so that there are lines across the blade and draw this along the line to file out some materiel and open out the slot. After the line is in place a combination of needle/scriber/probe and micromesh is applied to, hopefully, give a panel line which matches the others.
The dental probe looks a good tool and using thin glue/MEK is a good idea.
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That's a cracking 109 with beautiful balanced weathering, thanks for showing.
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Isn't it true to say that the Luftwaffe aircraft had dirty brown stains due to the quality, octane and base (coal as against oil) of the fuel they had available towards the end of the war?
That was probably VW getting involved somewhere
Interesting thought though
I read it somewhere and if you look at the staining on some of there aircraft (one shot of a Ju 88 comes to mind) you can believe it.
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Isn't it true to say that the Luftwaffe aircraft had dirty brown stains due to the quality, octane and base (coal as against oil) of the fuel they had available towards the end of the war?
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Yep or give the trailing edge a slight "up" but "horizontal left to right and fore to aft" would be fine - I think most modellers do anyway.
Dennis
Thank you very much Dennis.
Dave
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No, the tailplane on the Lightning had 0 degrees di/anhedral. At rest, however, the tailplane often adopted an aircraft "up" position (t/p leading edge down) giving the impression that it had dihedral.
HTH
Dennis
So it would be fair to attach horizontal left to right and fore to aft?
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Slight deviation from original subject, but as many of you have much more Lightning knowledge than myself here goes.
The tail plane on an Airfix Lightning has a sloppy fix which doesn't hold to give a positive angle my question is when in a 'neutral' position is the tail horizontal or does it have some an/di-hedral?
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That's a Christmas cracker.
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Superb! What did you use?
Okay, you probably won't believe this, but I used, holds breath, discs cut from a cotton bud stalk and some drinks can aluminium (well annealed).
Once I started hacking and gluing it all fell together quite quickly.
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Shouldn’t do. What are you using as cement?
Do you need spares?
Great attitude
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I had a go at a bit of scratch building what do you think?
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Ultimate Acrylic Primer - Black, Grey & White
in Tools & Paint Reviews
Posted · Edited by fingers
I've used the new Valejo metal colour on them, after a good buff up, and they worked well. I don't know about Alclads though HTH.
Dave