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Everything posted by fingers

  1. Hi Mark, I've just been using some of these which require bending and twisting to fit an ejection seat, I found with all the necessary dry fits and rebends you are sure to lose some paint although on a less convoluted base it would be minimal. I usually anneal bare pe but can't see how to do this to the pre painted variety and don't know any other way to soften it. Hth Dave
  2. I've used the new Valejo metal colour on them, after a good buff up, and they worked well. I don't know about Alclads though HTH. Dave
  3. Thanks for the mini review Andy, It's always useful to get a genuine modellers opinion especially one whose done such a good job with both kits. Dave
  4. Really lovely work, you can't beat rivets. Have you come to a conclusion on the better kit? Dave
  5. Does that discount a 1/48 in the future? Dave
  6. Please read original post, no complaint about the job it does, I just want to know a less toxic product for clean up. Dave
  7. !/72................... No........................Time to kick the cat I feel very despondent.
  8. I've tried Ultimate cleaner with limited and not acceptable results, vallejo cleaner the same, even tesco household cleaner but nothing shifts it except cellulose thinners or a strip and bath in the ultrasonic cleaner. Dave
  9. Hi guys. I must agree about stynylrez being an excellent product in use (it sprays beautifully, dries quickly, sands well and polishes to a good gloss). But, for me, it's a devil to clean out of the airbrush to such an extent I've been using cellulose thinners which I don't want to. Anyone got a magic answer to this problem? Dave
  10. Just done it on the Eduard Dauntless let's see what happens. Dave
  11. Thank you Woody I feel less idiotic by the second
  12. Okay now to give a slightly different method, I use a scalpel with a curved blade (No 10 I think) starting from the remaining good panel line I carefully rock it until the tip enters the other good panel line thus making a fine line, I then take another curved blade which is blunter and has been roughly sharpened so that there are lines across the blade and draw this along the line to file out some materiel and open out the slot. After the line is in place a combination of needle/scriber/probe and micromesh is applied to, hopefully, give a panel line which matches the others. The dental probe looks a good tool and using thin glue/MEK is a good idea.
  13. That's a cracking 109 with beautiful balanced weathering, thanks for showing.
  14. I read it somewhere and if you look at the staining on some of there aircraft (one shot of a Ju 88 comes to mind) you can believe it.
  15. Isn't it true to say that the Luftwaffe aircraft had dirty brown stains due to the quality, octane and base (coal as against oil) of the fuel they had available towards the end of the war?
  16. Thank you very much Dennis. Dave
  17. So it would be fair to attach horizontal left to right and fore to aft?
  18. Slight deviation from original subject, but as many of you have much more Lightning knowledge than myself here goes. The tail plane on an Airfix Lightning has a sloppy fix which doesn't hold to give a positive angle my question is when in a 'neutral' position is the tail horizontal or does it have some an/di-hedral?
  19. Okay, you probably won't believe this, but I used, holds breath, discs cut from a cotton bud stalk and some drinks can aluminium (well annealed). Once I started hacking and gluing it all fell together quite quickly.
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