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fingers

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Posts posted by fingers

    KGV funnels

    in Maritime WWII

    Posted

    I'm slowly building Tamiyas 1/350 KGV, I am about to do the funnels and on checking out other builds it seems that some people leave the funnel/s blanked even if they have upgraded the funnel caps.

    The Tamiya caps have what appears to fittings coming out of the funnel what are they? Should the funnels be hollow, as I presumed, or are they best capped off? Does anyone have a good photo or two to work from as I can't find any.

    Mk.V Meng kit

    in AFV WWI & Interwar

    Posted

    I've built the Whippet and the Smerch missile launcher and can say they are well designed and detailed and, for what they are, quite well priced. I also have a French Renault tank and British Mk4 in stock and they both seem, in the box, excellent kits.

     

    Dave

    Overheating Compressor

    in Compressors

    Posted

    Mine does the same, I was thinking about applying some computer heat sinks to help the cooling. I also noticed that this model has a solid end on the motor where as the tankless one I had previously had air holes maybe this could be replaced?

    EZ Line woes

    in Aircraft WWI

    Posted

    I find ez line is too flexible and like trying to glue cooked sphagetti into pin-holes as you say Beardie.

    Not trying to thread drfit but here is another method....

    I have had greater success with 0.15 monofilament fishing line.

    It is very strong and will not perish. Not sure how well ez line will last in twenty or thirty years? Will it perish?

    Fishing line is pretty much indestructible. It also adds strength to the structure unlike ez line which is purely cosmetic and just deforms under load.

    Even if you don't want to go down the Gaspatch turnbuckle or Bob's Buckles routes, you can anchor one end into a deepened rigging hole, filled with thin superglue. It takes maybe twenty seconds to "grab" the line for such a small area.

    The other end you can anchor either by drilling all the way through the wing ,and trimming of the end afterwards with a razor blade. A tiny touch of paint with a cocktail stick and the area is invisible. If you don't want to drill all the way through, you have to accurately cut the loose end, plus say 2mm to anchor into the second hole. Again a good pair of tweezers and a thin fuse wire with a tiny drop of superglue will help you. I recommend a set of 2.5x magnifiers as essential to improve your vision and accuracy of the work you are attempting.

    To replicate the anchoring points, you can chop 2mm lengths of polyamide tubing ( you can order single lengths of this from amazon, one length will last for ages). Just slide a couple of pieces onto the line before you glue the second end and you can anchor the two polyamide pieces at either end with white glue afterwards.

    Works a treat and in 1/32 looks better than ez line IMHO.

    One last tip, be careful with accelerator because it can cause the superglue to expand as it dries and hardens. As ever, best practise on a dummy piece first before comitting to your expensive and flawless model!, I think Uschi has a video either on his website or youtube on how to rig WNW biplanes....worth a look.

    Hi, have you got a direct Amazon link as a simple polyamide tubing search didn't seem to bring anything suitable.

    Thanks.

    Dave

    Eduard pre-painted etch ruggedness

    in Modelling Tips

    Posted

    Hi Mark,

    I've just been using some of these which require bending and twisting to fit an ejection seat, I found with all the necessary dry fits and rebends you are sure to lose some paint although on a less convoluted base it would be minimal. I usually anneal bare pe but can't see how to do this to the pre painted variety and don't know any other way to soften it.

    Hth

    Dave

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