Bennygman
-
Posts
790 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Posts posted by Bennygman
-
-
Mornin' chaps,
As it says, can these (USAF Aggressor boxing) still be had? Hannants look to have had one shipment then nothing, HLJ State out of stock as no-one has ordered it. Lucky model didn't appear to list it.
Anyone have any insight as to why it seems to have vanished? is it expected back? Was it limited and I've missed the boat?
Alternatively, is there a conclusive view on whether any of the other boxings can be used for an Alconbury machine (Two Bobs sheets)? I have it in my head that the 'Sundowner' has the wrong nose, but I'm happy to be proven wrong on that, what about the IIC ROCAF Boxing?
Any enlightenment gratefully received.
Steve.
-
Another vote for Games Workshop blood red, used it a few times and looks very good. It even covers well with only a few coats !
Me too, I brushed it thinned with Xtracrylics thinner and it went on very nicely. A coat of Klear over the top deepened the colour slightly which I'd say makes it a good match for your Islander.
Steve.
-
I used to see these sort of prices all the time- I basically thought of it as an 'ignorance tax'.
It's a bit like antique shops and the like, unless you're clued up they have all the power and you none. It just comes down to "pay what it's worth to you", I guess.
Steve.
-
Sometimes, just sometimes...
Holding a lamp near the floor at a low angle can cause a reflection or shadow that can help locate something that's otherwise invisible. no guarrantees, but it's worked for me in the past.
Steve.
-
I think that's one of the nicest builds of this kit I've seen. The dynamic pose on the stand really sets it off beautifully.
Very well done.
Steve.
-
Great work all of it, but the tip with the Milliput and clingfilm has gone straight into the 'bloody good ideas' file.
Steve.
-
Very nice job!
I believe the accepted way to get the wheels on the ground is to fix the nose and outriggers so that it sits in a "three point stance", then adjust the height of the main gear leg to suit. It worked out on my old Mbox kit, just had to modify the location pin so that the leg slid up and down in the locating hole.
Steve.
-
I had one of these when I was at school - which makes it, oooh..at least a quarter of a century ago!
Mine never got built so I'm glad yours will - nice idea too.
STeve.
-
I used to love this stuff, then I got a slight 'bloom' on an night fighter Hurricane and it scared me off. This was a couple of years ago and if I had to guess I'd say I maybe applied too heavy a coat.
It was a great one stop technique without the fuss of getting the airbrush out.
steve.
-
Great recovery
This is looking quite lovely
Steve.
-
Hi Ali these look nice. Any mileage in scaling these down to 48th for the new Airfix kit?
Of course not being a 109 expert I don't know if that would be possible?
Steve.
-
Nice! Hope you weren't too far from the car at about ten to five?
Steve.
-
My original bottle of Xtracrylix flat was fine, but when I replaced it with another, the flat was more like a satin,
Same here, but I quite like the satiny look of the 'matt' as it seems to match a little better with what I see full size. It also makes it easier to remove dust than a dead flat finish!
I've found that the Xtracrylix stuff goes slightly 'matter' if you spray roughly rather than smoothly. Higher pressure from further away so that it drys a bit en-route and leaves a rougher coat. I'm talking at the microscopic level here, it doesn't look rough to the eye, but is less reflective and therfore flatter in appearance.
At least, that's what I think is happening, science lessons were a long time ago now
Steve.
-
Steve - why not get started right now and join the unofficial Lizzie group build?
tempting, seeing what great work you guys are doing. There's a few projects and an impending house move on the go though.
One of the problems is deciding on a scheme. Living in Baldock I'm just down the road from Old Warden so that one's an option, but, I'm also just down the road from Tempsford so an SOE machine operated from there would be good (maybe I could combine the two in fact). but then again there's the one in the mushroom book with the big Czech markings on the side - decisions, decisions. Probably go with the Tempsford theme as it's a very atmospheric place to visit. The 'barn' where the agents kitted up is now a memorial and one of the runways is still there (in use for club drag racing the day we visited). We were just walking along the public footpath and wandered over to have a look - then looked it up on the 'net and discovered it was private property (oops). honest mistake at the time though!
Keep up the good work guys.
Steve.
-
Nice work - I have the same kit for a future project. You're thinking the same way I did, but making a much better job of it!
Mushroom model productions (orange series) do a good value little book on the Lizzie - just albout all the detail pics you could need.
http://www.mmpbooks.biz/mmp/books.php?book_id=84
Steve.
-
Talk about raising the bar!!!!
Some priveledged access there, but she certainly made use of it. This is the kind of thing I aspire to ( but generally miss by miles). this is the difference betweenan 'aviation photographer' and a spotter with a camera such as myself.
Steve.
-
Most online guides and opinions tend to suggest Klear ruins the metallic sheen you get with Alclad, however I have used it over their airframe aluminium shade and I don't think it looked any worse afterwards. Mind you, I wouldn't have done it anyway if it wasn't needed, but in my particular case the Alclad did not seem to have a very hardy finish and showed finger prints whenever the model was handled. I think this was more due to a mistake in my application of the paint though and not a problem with the paint as such, as I have heard many people saying how hard a finish Alclad is. Generally it seems Alclad provides a smooth and glossy enough surface for decal application without the need for a gloss top coat. I also think Micro Sol/Set should work fine on it if required, but haven't actually tried it myself mind.
I think the airframe Alu is a lot less hardy than the other shades (I've read this is true of the 'polished effect' shades too. I recently did an F-86 using Airframe alu and the standard shade and the airframe panels left finger marks, whereas the rest was fine. I've not noticed a particular problem with brush applied klear over Alclad myself.
Steve.
-
I've been thinking about those schemes as I have the sheets too.
I would definitely spray the darker color first here, shouldn't be a problem if airbrushing - much easier to mask the stripes rather than the gaps especially on the 'sandys' and the 'grey' (if you see what i mean). I'd probably make them from something form-hugging like Tamiya tape and not worry about them being absolutely perfect, but scaling up the drawings would give the most accurate representation. For the 'wavy' camo ones I'd use white tac (less oily I believe) sausages and work from light to dark.
Steve.
PS. the brown on the non-splinter 'sandy' is the one that's not available in model form I think. For my Skyhawk I started with RAF Dark earth and added 'a bit' of red until it looked right .
-
Overall, I like it.
When I bought issue two, my initial reaction was that it was a bit of a come down, but having actually read it, its growing on me. Not sure about the 'showtime' covering airshows as opposed to model shows, but I guess that as I go to a lot of these I'm luckier than many. Like wise the Canberra photo spread initially had me thinking "ah another lazy way to fill a few pages", but having looked closer the pics are all pretty useful for modelling purposes (in a way that the Legends ones aren't maybe?). The modelling articles seem to have a higher ratio of words to pics, but without seeming like the pics are lacking (smaller font than others perhaps?).
Very nice article on the Hansa Brandenburg flying boat, but one big omission - let's see it on the scenic base! I can glean from the text that the author was disapointed how it turned out, but it surely can't be unpublishable
:-) . Is it on-line anywhere?Personally I can live without the centre spread - grew out of that with Look-In
Review section a little sparse, but I wouldn't give up the meaty build articles to flesh it out.
Good stuff, keep it up.
Steve.
-
I'd love to have been at Legends that year!
Wonderful job all round.
Steve.
-
Another vote for the Mustang i'm afraid, it just looks completely 'wrong' to me. 'Course it didn't help that I glued the gear covers on back to front
, but even so...Steve.
-
The "hose" provided a flow of warm air into the airframe to prevent iceing on the Arctic convoys
I love it when I'm wrong and that was wrong on a grand scale
. Makes perfect sense though, thanks for the correction.Steve.
-
Great thread chaps - this has been extremely helpful in fleshing out my research to date (I have a similar project in hand). Thanks to evryone who's contributed info and oics here - britmodeller at it's best.
My small contribution - scale Aircraft Modelling Vol 28 No 2 has an article with 4 good, clear close up pics of a Hurri' on a cat'. In particular it shows the location of the 5 'stays' which were used to satbilise the plane on the Cat', they were removed prior to launch. Also clearly shown is a hose going into what looks like a fod cover on the radiator, which I assume is cooling kit of some sort. May be worth purchasing a back issue, though the article is only 2 pages long.
Steve.
-
Hi all, I assume this is the right forum for this one?
Anyone know where I could get hold of the above? I'm thinking 1/32, but a photocopier could probably sort that out. I have a hankering to try a scratchbuild based on the replica at old Warden. If SAM or similar have published these in the past I'd be happy to pay a sensible amount for a copy.
It might seem a bit optimistic for a first scratch job, but I'm looking to stretch the old 'skills' a bit! Lots of rigging, yes, but the basic structure seems reasonably straightforward (not many compound curves).
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve.
and not a problem with the paint as such, as I have heard many people saying how hard a finish Alclad is. Generally it seems Alclad provides a smooth and glossy enough surface for decal application without the need for a gloss top coat. I also think Micro Sol/Set should work fine on it if required, but haven't actually tried it myself mind.
:-) . Is it on-line anywhere?
, but even so...
AFV Club F-5E first boxing
in Aircraft Cold War
Posted
Thanks Stephen, I suspected that was too easy a solution
Steve.