Bennygman
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Posts posted by Bennygman
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Very nice choice of markings. In a couple of articles, Mike Grant of SAMI has suggested pink as an undercoat for yellow. Never tried it myself but his models never look less than amazing. I would imagine it would give back some of the warmth to your mustard yellow.
Steve.
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the 5 preceding instalements of colour and markings, in my view (4) to many for a machine that basically came in two schemes. Sorry Airfix but that stopped me buying and otherwise excellent publication. I did get the calender issue and what do we have .....the start of a three parter on the Lightning markings and camouflage.......
(A not normally grumpy) Richard McC
Yes, I've alluded to that elsewhere, I agree it was excessive for the average reader given the lack of overt variety. Three parts on the Lightning is more resonable I feel as there's a lot more potential variation to be had (and potential sales for a new-tool 1/72 family - hint, hint Airfix)
Steve.
PS I also have some sympathy with Seahawk's comments about depth - just no pleasing some people
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However, before I commit myself to this work, I'd like to know if there is interest in such a series combining historical data and modelling? And if so, who would I be best off pitching it to?
Ideas gratefully received!
Regards
Andy
It sounds like the sort of thing Model Aircraft monthly used to be known for though I've not bought it since the format change (and change back I believe), or more recently Airfix magazine in the 'Battle and build' series which sounds exactly like you're proposing. Airfix aren't scared of long series either as anyone with a passing interest in the Valiant could confirm.
Steve.
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I agree,I add the PE deck-railing of after all the other tasks are completed,and the rigging has been done.I always used PVA glue to attach the PE,it dries almost invisiable.
Cheers Phil
I don't have a fraction of Phil's ship building abilities (I've done one 1:600 model), but I did this using Gator glue and then blew over a light coat of matt varnish and the shine was taken away from the already transparent glue making it completely invisible. I was very happy with the result.
Steve.
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Interesting... I'd be looking for the one with the open bomb bay doors so would probably end up with the wrong one knowing my luck!
Cheers,
Ian
If you did then CMK make a nice resin bay complete with LGB 'trapeze's'. it's intended for the Academy, but is a very easy fit to the Hasegawa. Just cut the doors off and Bob's your uncle. Without having seen Hase's interior I'd be willing to bet the Resin one is nicer. It also adds a satisfying 'weight' to the model.
Steve.
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got it in trade for of all things a Brett Favre figure set
Do you find that every time you think it's gone, it keeps coming back again?
Steve.
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the one on static at Fairford a couple of years ago had everything drooping - and at different angels on each side, looked a right mess. The tails seem to swivel down fairly consistently from memory.
I'll try and find the pics tonight, I think I've posted them before some time ago.
Steve.
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Excellent - the gear going up gives it a real sense of animation, very 'alive'.
Steve.
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Houston, hope it was worth the wait - a few more for your patience.
Steve.
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Right, sorry about that chaps, after months of virus warnings PBucket has let me uplaod my pics, so here we are. After months of contributing nothing to the forum apart from the ocassional moan, here's something positive. Nothing spectacular but quite pleasing after a truly abysmal morning's weather. Some of these show compression artefacts in the blues, but I've sacrificed some quality to improve the 'viewing experience', hopefully they're user friendly!
The Frecce shot is interesting as I was standing on the crowdline looking backwards! You didn't quite line that one up boys, but what the hell it made a great picture. The Tonka was also overhead, but heading up and away during the superb roll demo sequence.
Again, apologies to anyone who wasted a click on the initial post.
Steve.
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It's one they sell without decals or instructions. Bizarre.
Presumably so you can use up the extra decal options from the full kit? A typically innovative bit of thinking from the Czech boys.
Steve.
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That's an example of how modling can become an art form!
We're being spoilt by the quality if finished work this week.
Steve.
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Simply gorgeous.
Nothing more needs to be said. The consistently high standard of your work is one of the highlights of MAI for me.
Steve.
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Thank you all very much, for your kind words.
Steve, the pre shade is dark gray, then the camo, post shading was done with the base sade with a bit of white and brown.
For the underside the same thing, but post sading is with Tamiya smoke and then a mix of smoke and clear yellow.
Thank again.
Cheers,
Ilan.
Thanks for explaining that, I've noted it for an upcoming project.
Keep up the good work.
Steve.
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Lovely weathering job,
Is that black pre-shade followed by camo then post shade with greenish-grey (RLM-02?)? I'm interested to know as it's all blended together very well.
Steve.
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Looking good, I've had the same project semi started for some time now. The detail on the resin is just amazing.
I keep dry fitting and fettling the cockpit and nosewheel bays, but I'm still not happy with the fit. Glad to see it does all go together though
Any thoughts on markings?
Steve.
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This kit is no miracle,
Any completed kit is a miracle in my world !
Everything you've shown us is superb. I'm not totally convinced about pre-shading NMF, but there's no denying that the overall effect here is magnificent. It looks like real metal, so job done really.
Steve.
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Another vote for PVA - Gator glue is my weapon of choice. As long as there's a flat contact area, no stresses on the part and it gets adequate drying time then it will not come off without serious pressure. Cocktail sticks for application are essential for neatness. It also dries clear but glossy, so any mess almost entirely disappears under a flat coat.
Good hard flat surface ( I use a steel rule, but the tile suggestion is much better) to cut the parts off with a scalpel. I then trim them with a scalpel (straight down again - trying to file them is a recipe for disaster in my experience). If they get bent, sandwich between two hard, flat surfaces and press down really hard and they usually flatten out acceptably.
The folding tools are expensive but will repay you if you use pe a lot. They will give a perfect bend if used correctly.
one last thing, You will be instructed to cut things off and replace with pe. Be aware of the point of no return and fashion the pe replacements before cutting the plastic. Then if you stuuf it up you can default back to the kit part.
Let us know how it goes.
Steve.
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I've long been an admirer of Mike's work on such places as the Unofficial Airfix forums. he's a real craftsman who uses innovative but simple approaches to problems. I always learn something or how to approach things differently from reading one of his articles. What he did with the old Airfix Henschel the other month was just exquisite.
Steve.
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why you SHOULD USE GLASSES ....
It's good advice. I'm a speccy-four-eyes anyway, but I've posted before about the lid of an Xtracolour tin flying off and painting a nice high speed silver splodge on my glasses right in front of where my bare eye would have been. I've also bent over and poked my glasses with the open top of a superglue bottle - that one doesn't bear much thinking about!
Steve.
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I usually just tap it through with a pair of pliers held flat, it doesn't need much force. It's a Historex rather than Waldron set, but the principles the same I'd think.
Steve.
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I got one from Halfords which wasn't expensive.
It's the type with two filters sticking out to the sides and angled down about 30-40 degrees. Is it the right one? no idea, but I do know that spray Alclad without it = thumping headache, with it, no headache.
I'm no scientist, but it works for me.
Steve.
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Therei s one in Antics Bristol Shop. 0117 9273744 £32 IIRC
They do mail order
Cheers Sean
Thanks for the lead sean, appreciate it.
I should have made it clear that I'm not actually looking to get one right now, just curious as to why they've disappeared, apologies for that.
My two theories are that either a. they've been busy issuing the other variants and will maybe re-visit this one later, or b. the forthcoming Academy kit is the same one and AFV can't re-pop it until they've had a bite out of it.
Steve.
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They are unavailable because I bought them all!
The USN version has the duckbill nose and the extended LERX, both of which are wrong for a USAF F-5E. However, the new F-5F contains the earlier version of the radome and LERX, so if you swap parts with one of those kits you can either build a USAF F-5F or USN F-5F.
HTH,
Jens
So the Danes are pillaging our model shops these days, eh?
That explains it.When I get around to it, I'll only need single seaters to re-live my (ahem) spotting days. We always used to call in at Alconbury (and Wyton) on the way to Mildenhall and Lakenheath. It's a shame they didn't put the alternate noses and LERX's in each box.
Steve.
That explains it.
My 2011 selection
in Aviation Photography
Posted
Great stuff here. I also think that the one that jumps out is the 41 sqn Tonka - very dynamic angle on that one. Do tell more about the antics of the VIP chopper drivers. I've always found US Servicemen pretty good so it's sad to hear some have been letting the side down.
Steve.