mctrl87

Hi Steve, thanks for the kind comments! I only recently upgraded to a proper cutting mat (YAY!) from an old A3 desk pad so I am still breaking in the cutting mat

Since my last post I have finished re-scribing all the panel lines on the wings and tail planes. Comparison: without and with re-scribing Re-scribing complete I have also assembled the wing pylons minus the Sidewinders. Speaking of Sidewinders, I have decided not to use the ones provided in the kit as I have 4 leftover from an Airfix Harrier FA2 kit which are much more detailed then the Revell/Italeri offering. That's all for now I hope to post back with more progress soon!

Can anyone tell me what colour the Skyflash missiles on a Tornado F.3 should be? Preferably in Humbrol Paint Numbers. Many Thanks

I thought the instructions were probably wrong, but always best to check! Cheers!

Thanks for checking out my build! I'll be sure to check your build out as I too am interested in which moulding is generally best overall. As for the pictures just click them to make them bigger

Hello All, I am building an F.3 (ZE764) from the late 80s / early 90s and the instructions with my kit indicate that I should paint the upper surfaces Light Aircraft Grey while Painting the under surfaces in Barley Grey. However I seem to remember reading that it should be the other way around. Can anyone advise which way around is correct? Many Thanks

Okay so here we go! First off the obligatory box / sprue shots: Next step is to deepen/re-scribe all the panel lines, will probably start with the tail planes and wings.

Thanks to everyone who replied. I decided to order a couple or Mr. Color (lacquer) paints (Barley Grey & Light Aircraft Grey) I already have these in Humbrol Enamels so I should be able to compare them like for like, I also ordered a 110ml bottle of Mr. Levelling Thinner to make the paints brushable. So I will give them a try and see how I get on. If these don't work out I will give the Mr. Hobby (aqueous) paints a go and see how I get on with them.

As I understand it the pylons and sidewinder rails in the Hasegawa kit are for an F.2 and would need replacing in addition to the tail fin modifications, which I believe can be achieved with simple sanding. You may find this topic useful: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17762 From what I have read, as I have been looking for the answer to this question as well, the general consensus seems to be that the Hasegawa mould has a better fit and better surface detail with a less accurate shape, where as the Italeri mould has a more accurate shape with a poor fit and surface detail.

Hello all, I'm looking for some advice, I currently paint using Humbrol Enamels and a hairy stick. I love the finish I get from the enamels but I'm starting to get fed up with the drying/curing times. So I am basically looking for an alternative that gives the same high quality finish but dries / cures much quicker! Now I have tried Humbrols Acrylics before and I have to say I didn't get on with them, they just didn't seem to give as nice a finish, now I keep reading not all paints are made equal and I am trying to keep an open mind, but at the same time I have to say I am somewhat wary of Acrylics following that experience. :shithappens: At the moment I am leaning towards trying the Mr. Color (Lacquer) range with some Mr. Retardant Mild added (I've ready anywhere from 10%-20%) to the mix so they can be applied using a hairy stick as I have read in several places that these paints are supposedly the best you can get, as well as being very quick drying! As a side note most of the kits I buy/build tend to be of Japanese manufacture (Pit-Road, Dragon, Fujimi, etc) and they all use Mr. Color on their colour charts so moving to Mr. Color would be a bonus in this regard. That said I have read conflicting reports about how well these can be applied using a hairy stick. Some people say don't even bother trying to use Mr Color with a brush while others using the right combo of paint and retardant say they are able to apply them with a brush like any other range of paints. I am still open to other suggestions / advice this just happens to be the direction I am leaning in at the moment. Like I say all advice / suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Many thanks guys! Modifying the rear cockpit IP looks like it could be a real challenge! Still I'm up for having a go. Although I'm not sure where to start. I also forgot to mention before that this will be a wheels up build.

Hi Merv, thanks for the welcome! As I'm still something of a noob could you explain what the cockpit IP is?

Hello Everyone, this is my first internet build and my first group build so please wish me luck! This will be a mostly OOB build of the Revell boxing (04375) of the Italeri Tornado F.3 mould in 1/72, with the exception of the ejector seats which I will replace with Pavla Resin Mk10A Martin-Baker ejector seats. I've decided to go with ZE764 as depicted in the artwork on the front/sides of the Revell box using; Humbrol Enamels and brushes for the Painting, Micro Set / Micro Sol for decal application, Humbrol Precision Poly for assembly, Tamiya 6mm masking tape for masking and dry fitting. I plan to start the build by going over all the panel lines with my scriber (Hasegawa Try Tool) so they wont be lost when it comes to sanding or painting. If anyone has any tips or advice with regards to this kit I would love to hear from you!

Am I too late to join in on this Group Build? I have a Revell (Italeri) Tornado F.3 ADV in 1/72 that I would like to contribute.

I came to the same conclusion on my current build (Panavia Tornado F.3.) Build and finish the wings first and then build up the rest of the airframe around them. Like you I wanted the wings to be able to swing and I paint with a brush so this was the only way I could think of to avoid the wings / pylons getting stuck.