Brandy

That is so good in so many ways! I particularly like the overall finish, with the variation on tone over the surfaces. Top notch, well done! Ian

I still have to drill all the rigging holes. Are you available on a sub-contract basis? Ian

That's turned out very nice indeed, you should do more biplanes! I have the Airfix kit which I was going to modify to a DH9 (thread is on here as a double build with the Pegasus DH4), but the wings are too warped. I may still tackle it as an RAF engined aircraft. We'll see..... Ian

Very nice! Filling those troughs has certainly made a huge difference. Now I know what lies ahead for me with both this and the ME110. Oh well.... Ian

Nicely done, and great to see it on its stand too! It's not a bad kit, just a shame about the "starving cow" wings, which also spoil the SPAD. Ian

Those are all looking rather fetching in their fancy finery! I'm assuming that his Generalship's googly was a good old fashioned red ball, not a white one! Lucky it wasn't a bouncer or it could have been a classic no-ball! Ian

Right then, after having gone cross-eyed doing all that masking on the undersurfaces, I did it all again today on the uppers! You can see why I kept putting this job off, especially as I also had to mask off the overlap under the DH9 wings/tail. Anyway, both sets of wings are now ready for the upper surfaces to be painted, so the next pics should be of almost finished flight surfaces. I will not finish the upper surfaces of the top wings as there will be repairs to be made following rigging so the final coat will be done after any repairs have been made. Thanks for looking in! Ian

Indeed! My favourite form of modelling Alan! Thanks Keith! It is imperial, of course! But I think it's a tad over exposed and some of the sharpness has been lost. Not a huge issue at this scale though. Thanks Tony. Slow but sure! I built this, the Bugatti, and the Aston Martin, all of which are again in my stash. I hope to show what can be done with them but don't intend to go too over the top! Just a quick update today as I fitted the sump. Very happy with how it turned out, even though I cut corners with the oil filter and fitting. I used plastic tube and simply stuck a piece of brass rod in to represent the bolt fitment. I really can't be bothered to print it at this scale as it isn't highly visible and I have more important things to do! Thanks for looking in, have a great weekend! Ian

I'll take a seat at the bar for this one too. It has to be at the bar because this may take some time...... Ian

I'm looking forward to seeing how you work your magic on this one Bill. Damage is not easy to replicate, but I know you'll do a great job! Ian

Not much else to add. More stunning CADery, plus a lesson in watery weapons. The thread itself is enlightening. The CAD work even more so. Have a great weekend Tony! Ian

A positive outlook is a huge bonus, and you have your own cheerleading team here - although we won't be winning any beauty contests and certainly won't be doing cartwheels! Ian

As per the post above, those small semi-circles are not enough. Reduce the support area since you don't need it all the way round like that. I would go for narrower supports with an almost equal distance gap between each one, so you have large slots between the supports to release the suction. Ian

Of course he did. Everyone knows it should be up front! Ian

It depends on the thickness of the part. I work mainly in 1:72 so it's not really an issue. I print the part solid as it's not very thick anyway. For thick parts you can hollow the part and add drain holes for the uncured resin to escape. I just printed some 1:32 seat bases for the Matchbox Jaguar SS100 and left the part hollow, just like the kit part, but with a drain slot to the rear, which can be filled later. It will only really be an issue if you have a closed part with a hollow centre and no drain holes. If the part is solid, it will be cured during printing anyway. Ian

Any progress on this? It's not at the top of my build pile, but it would be great to have someone who knows tanks better to do this, and I can concentrate on the stuff I know! Ian

So can normal resin if you print your parts hollow with no way for uncured resin to escape. Ian

I still think your base and supports are the issue. There is no space between the supports and that leaves no way for air to get in. IE you have suction. I would get rid of those huge supports/extensions, at least on the large cylindrical parts - try removing every second one at a minimum and leave more space for air to get inside and under the parts as they lift. Ian

Nice and shiny there Johnnie. Should look great with chips! Mmmm, chips.... I think I need to eat. See you later.... Ian

Thanks Keith, see below! I have to agree there Alan. I'm not quite sure how the shape could be so wrong, maybe they had a designer from Fly working on it? I ran a test print last night of the parts designed so far. Mainly just to check sizes before investing more time adding to bits which may not fit. I needn't have worried! First the gearbox mount. That looks useable as is. I originally designed it a little bigger (2mm!) but caught the error in time and this looks good so I'll build on that. The seat base also looks good, thankfully! Slightly smaller than the oversized kit part, and the height (allowing for the floor being too high) looks good too. I'm using the pocket on the door panel as a reference and that looks good when compared to photos of the real thing. Finally, the sump. My favourite piece so far! I think I'll count that as a slight improvement! Test fitted to the engine block it looks good size-wise too. I've since removed the lip on the engine which I had left in place, leaving only the mount for the oil filter. I'm very pleased with how well the detail has printed on it too! That's useable as is, I won't even reprint it. A definite "result" there, and huge confidence builder for the next parts. Thanks for looking in! Ian

Never assume that printed plans are the correct size. Windsock had many issues with published drawings being different from those submitted, due to printing processes, and I have found quite a few where the fuselage may be correct in plan and wingspan wrong, but fuselage is wrong in profile! Always double check, and print to the correct size, even if that means one size for plan and another for profile! Ian

Desertgelb? Looks like it's wearing one of those wine bottle nets. How appropriate! Ian

Hmm, nearly 2 weeks without an update. Sorry about that! I have been busy on it and have started the design work on some of the 3d replacement parts. Here's a catch-up of what's been done. Firstly, adjustments to the bodywork. There was one area that needed quite a bit of fettling - the mudguards/running boards. The shape at both front and back was wrong, and detail underneath was missing. This is how it should be, looking back towards the rear wheel. The rivet ends you can see are the fittings for the protective strips on top of the running boards by the doors. Note the join between the main running board and the rear wheel arch, plus the join all along the side of the chassis frame. This runs all along and up into the rear wheel arch but I have no pics of the wheel arch interior itself, so I had to guess at that. Adjustments started with the addition of plastic strip after having first drastically thinned the whole running board underneath. and this is what I'm going with. Not perfect, but a whole lot better. The other major issue here is that the cockpit floor is too high, being level with the bottom of the doors. I'm not going to bother with that! An even more obvious error is the shape of the mudguards at the rear end I started with the left side. Still not there yet as it still has a horizontal edge to it inboard... and the final look The front end was also slightly off, but nothing as major, just a slight reduction of the curve on the outer part. Then on to the innards. The part provided is very thick around the back end and actually extends too far forwards, interfering with the doors. I decided to remove the sides and replace them with plastic sheet. Here's the part as supplied. and after the sides were removed with a razor saw Obviously having removed such a thick piece of plastic it needed spacers adding. As it turned out, only to one side, but I found that out later... This kit only needed the spacers on the right side. After adding them to both, it was obvious that the left side sloped inwards drastically when fitted inside the body. If you plan on doing similar, check the fit! This is part way through, the nearside still needs trimming back properly. I also added some stock strip to the rear edge to ensure a snug fit against the rear wall of the body and eliminate the gaps there. The last (that I've found so far!) of the major body issues is the large gap under the rear end where the fuel tank should be, when viewed from the side. Obviously that needed to be taken care of, so more plastic stock to the rescue. and finished, with the interior in place. As I mentioned above, I have no idea whether that is correct or not, but it's a lot better than a big hole! I have sent an email to a Classic Jag restoration garage asking if they have pics, but to be honest I don't expect they have the time to answer, so I'm not holding my breath! Finally for today, a little progress on the design of replacement parts. I don't use Fusion often enough for it to be stuck in my head properly, so each time is a bit of a relearning curve! I have done the sump and seat bottoms, work has started on the gearbox too. That seat drove me nuts! I finally got the curves for the top, but then couldn't thicken it without it extending through the sides. Then O couldn't get the sides to extend and match the curve of the top! I finally got it sorted. The main issue was that I had made the original drawing a rectangle so it kept trying to follow that all the way around. I changed the drawing slightly to get rid of the inner edge and eventually got it to work. So many ways to do the same thing, and I can't even get one sorted! Anyway, it's done now! I'll do a test print and check for the height, then depending on how visible it is I may reduce the seat thickness and add a more reasonable mounting frame underneath. We'll see.... That's about it for now, thanks for looking in! Ian

Yes, we have to wait until he returns from vacation. So, no. No change then Ian

Too many of those lately. Forgot which one! Oops! Ian