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Rebilda

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  1. Peter! Positively awesome! Really, I envy you for that steady progress. The wash is just a work of art. Furymodels...oil based or water collour? Thanks so much for the heads up with the lighting and the Humbrol paints!!! Greetings.
  2. Looks really awesome! Thanks for the heads up. You like the Humbrol Acrylics and how they spray? And, uhh, sorry to be thickheaded: you mean like a desk lámp or some flurescent bulb ? What wattage?
  3. The downloadable manual states one drop of Vallejo Airbrush thinner for every three drops of paint. I always do that, even with the Gloss Varnish and spray it at 10 PSI. Spray it kind of 'wet', don't mist it, really! Works every time. 20 to 25 PSI is WAY too high, can't remember when I used that high a pressure other than cleaning. But that's me.
  4. Once read Gunze Hemp is best. never treid the specific shade, love Gunze paints though.
  5. OR: get Vallejo Panzer Aces Old Rubber and New Rubber and fell REAL good Add just a little bit of water and brush with a moistened brush. Two coats applied within 15 Minutes of each other should give you a real nice paint job. And one bottle of Vallejo paint will last you r for many a sherman and lots of other rubber tired tanks. Believe me, I tried. Save your Tamiya paint for airbrushing and then thin it with LAQUER thiner only.
  6. I agree on the slightly odd look of vallejo Luftwaffe Colours. But let's face it: who of us could ever know what's the exact right shade of say RLM75? I know I might be breaking loose a hailstorm with that statement but I say: paint as you like. Means: apply the whole camouflage, panelshade AND weather and THEN see if you are pleased with their look. I'd bet on a firm yes. Regarding Xtracrylix: just posted how I spray them. Love them and the LW colours are realy likeable, too!!
  7. Rebilda

    Best Masking Tape?

    Nothin, I mean: NOTHING beats Tamiya tape IMHO. Tried lots else, always returned. For real tight curves I use AIZU, too. But be careful, doesn't stick like Tamiya, so bleeding may occur.
  8. As already stated: white, red and yellow are difficult colours. I really hated spraying them, too. 'till i found Mr. Colour Cool White GX1. It thins with Gunze blue lable thinner. Gives a real nice gloss finish IN ONe COAT, dries almost instantly (i once even sanded lightly while airbrushing 'cause i had a paint run!!). Works like a charm. Red and Yellow just the same. For paint brushing i use Vallejo whites, works nice when applied in THIN coats (thin with water and wipe off a lot from the brush before you paint). Check with figure painters ( for example Historicus Forma or else). They know how to do that. Apllying a slightly rough first coat with a good primer first works well, too. I use Games Workshop Skull White primer. There might be some issue with availability of Mr. Color but just goolge them and you should be fine. Don't know 'bout postage but looky here: http://www.hsc-modell.de/index.php/katalog..._glaenzend.html Hope that helps. For me it was salvation!!
  9. Johnny, I'd be really careful about vaporising (i.e. airbrushing) methanol in an unventilated room. That stuff is not something you want to breathe in gasseous form. I mean it! If you want something cheaper than the appropriate thinner then use IPA/Water 50/50 on alcohol based acrylics like Gunze and Tamiya. Dont ever try that with Vallejo, use plain water instead. I've been experimenting for quite some time with thinners and alternatives. Best results were always achieved with the respective thinners. Also toughness and coverage can be seriously altered when using not the appropriate thinners. One thing: Gunze and Taiya are advertized as water soluble (read:alcohol tolerating) BUT give real sterling service when thinned with Gunze LAQUER thinner (or Tamiya LqTh though I havent' tried it yet). Hope that helps.
  10. Really love Xtracrylix as they give the most beautiful finish IMHO. Had lots of problems getting used to them. Wrote to Hannants about that. Got the following reply(by David Hanants himself!): Two parts thinner (!!!!) to one part paint, a few drops pf windscreen washer fluid, sprayed at 10 to 15 psi should work. Guess what: it did. Didn't add screen fluid so that's maybe why i still got a little paint build up. But for that i dab at the needle every few minutes with a brush soaked in Valejo airbrush cleaner. Hope that helps.
  11. Thin the paint down really badly'till you reach like ''tinted thinner''. Set your pressure gauge on 10 to 15 psi. Get close to some primed spare evergreen card (like 30 millimetres close). Spray with very little paint on one spot. Get runny lines? Add small drops of paint 'till you like the finish and your grain problem has vanished. If that doesn't work get Tamiya laquer thinner. Yes you CAN thin Tamiya acrylics with their laquer thinner! Thin with that and you'll be on easy street
  12. Man, Peter, what a real nicely done build! What did you use for the upper grey? And above all: how do you get such really wonderful lighting in your pics? I'm really struggling do get decently lightened pics. A little hint would be nice!! Thanks for reading. Greetings!
  13. Thanks!! I was stuck at work for some time as all my assistants were waiting for her damned dress. No surgeries for half an hour then.... Here's the corrected tailboom: Just cut out a wedge shaped slice so the tail vane didn't point up at too acute an angle. And this is where I'm stuck right now: Rescribing. What a b...ch It's the stray scribes you gotta hate, right? Clean them up with little dabs of Mr. Surfacer. Sheeeeesh.....
  14. Now that you're all glued to the TeeVee (why has he a crimson coloured uniform donned for his wedding? his brother looks more dashing...) I'm free to post at leasure. Here's the undercarriage as is: Spent a lot of time cleaning up the struts. Heritage molded them with braking cables which didn't really work. So I removed them and tried like heck to keep the struts round. Then a gazillion of coats of primer and whoalah..... Also the wheels didn't fit and were impossible to clean up. So I pimped the kit wheels and used them. Nicer thread pattern anyways.
  15. Thanks for the warm welcome, guys!!!! And thanks for enlightening pic! Sometimes I'll be posting in a very fractioned manner. I mostly write at the office inbetweeen jobs and share a computer. So there'll be many single posts. Hope I'm not annoying the admin with that... Here's my reference and decals: The 4+ Book is a real gem btw. The decals are from the ModelAlliance Seaking sheet. Wrong number, I know. But the kit decals are for Mk.3s and yellowed to the point of being unrecognizable. This is how she should look in the end: http://www.airliners.net/photo/UK---Navy/W...75988e281c2b06b Any ideas how those late HAS.1 in Rescue guise look on the belly? I mean, most of the sonar stuff has been removed, right? Is there any ducting and cables at all? Thanks for watching, see you in a few...
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