nheather

Building one of these myself, just OOB, but was going to start a thread asking how to do the link and length. I like how you have done yours, will probably copy that.

I went past it a couple of weeks ago, to be honest didn’t look like a good time to visit. Clearly the masts are still missing but there was a lot of scaffolding and polythene sheet around it.

The Archer and the SU-76 are both very nice. Cheers, Nigel

Very nice, given me inspiration, I have one of these in the stash, though I think it is the version with just the 20mm Breda. Cheers, Nigel

SQUEAK!

Also with the jars check that the air hole is clear. If it is blocked you shouldn’t get any paint through but if it is partially obscured it may spray problematically. Cheers, Nigel

Reading this has made me ponder something. I made most of these Airfix 54mm figures in my teenage years when they first released. When I built these I chose to use paper for the straps instead of the plasticard that was provided. Just intrigued what made me do that, there was no internet at that time, I wasn’t in a model club, didn’t have friends in the hobby and didn’t buy magazines (couldn’t afford them). So somehow, I must have come up with the idea on my own - just wondering what made me do it, was it a sensible thing to do, was it a common thing to do, anyone else do it? Cheers, Nigel

Can’t you just work out the actual length of strap A by wrapping a strip round the horses girth so that it looks about right. Cheers, Nigel

The Eclipse doesn't normally have a knob at the end but some special editions do and you can buy that rear part separately. The knob sets the amount the needle can be pulled back. The idea is if you want to spray very fine consistent lines then you can set the knob and the airbrush needle is limited almost behaving like a single action airbrush.

I guess 633 Squadron was made at a time when WW2 was still fresh in the minds - there were an awful lot of WW2 related films, TV and literature back then. Mosquitos were used on similar attacks in real life, the French prison and the Gestapo HQ in Denmark. The Danish one went horribly wrong, so would have been glossed over in those times but there is a very good recent Danish language film - worth seeing but it will leave you feeling very low at the end.

Just got back from watching it. Really enjoyed it. Of course there were a few things that were not accurate/correct but not bad enough to trigger me. Great film, back to the good old days of a film designed to be entertaining rather than preachy. My wife thought it was great too and she has little interest in aircraft, war, military stuff. Cheers, Nigel

Usually with Amazon at the point of ordering it states that the product will be visible when shipping (meaning that they just stick labels on the product box) and that if you don’t want this you should select Amazon packaging. This warning is not very prominent and is easy to miss as is the option to add Amazon packaging. I can’t say whether this is the case for these particular model kits but I have seen it a number of times for other products that I have ordered. The strange thing is that I can accept that the packaging of many products is robust enough for shipping but Airfix kit boxes are certainly not. My most common damage in the past with Amazon orders was with books. They would ship Osprey paperbacks in Jiffy bags or a heavy hardback unsecured in a box that was too large so that it moves around inside. On every occasion when they have done this I have had to return the books because one or more corners have been damaged. Thankfully, they seem to have got the message now and the packaging is now much more suitable. Cheers, Nigel

My wife and I watch loads of films, we both have Cineworld cards but I've noticed that there is definitely a type she likes nd a type she tolerates because I want to watch. One thing I have noticed is that she considers anything over 90 minutes too long.

I was looking through Android Play Store and I notice that there is now a WW2 version of the WW1 that you first mentioned. Warplanes WW2 Dogfight I’ve not checked whether it is on other platforms but as the WW1 is (I play it on the Nintendo Switch) I suspect that it is widely available, possibly even for direct install on your headset. Cheers, Nigel

One thing that jumps out to me is that they have applied camouflage over all the national and unit markings but have left the swastika absolutely pristine. Almost as if they had a political officer on the base saying “don’t you dare”. Of course it could be that it was supplied from the factory without swastikas so they had to buy after-market decals which were delayed in the post and only turned up once the camouflage had been applied 😀 To be clear, my observation is about the actual plane in the archive photo, not your model, which I think is excellent. Cheers, Nigel

Do you want a realistic simulator or an arcade style game? The WWI game you led with is very much an arcade style game and I would imagine would run quite happily direct on the goggles. If you want a realistic simulator you could look at the IL-2 range, you can get several Spitfires in there. The base game often appears on sale and can be had quite cheaply. Warning though Such a simulator needs a reasonable CPU and RAM configuration and if playing VR needs a powerful video card, more powerful then if just playing on a monitor because in VR it is effectively driving two screens. Also IL-2 is very realistic and therefore takes a little practice to fly. Another option is War Thunder where you play against other players. Plenty of aircraft to choose from and it is free to play. The flying is easier than in IL-2 and there are a few realism settings to choose. Free to play so nothing lost if you don’t like it. IL-2 really needs a joystick, War Thunder is better with a joystick but you can get by with a game controller.

I don’t think so https://airbrushes.com/parts_info.php?cPath=400_217_300&products_id=21056 And if you could I would imagine that the price would be almost the same as a new airbrush. In fact you might find the airbrush on discount somewhere so it would be cheaper than a replacement body. Once you have got the bits out I imagine that the threads on the body will be fine - they will be tougher than the metal used on the nozzle. Cheers, Nigel

Would you be running the game from a PC or just using the processor and memory that is on board the VR headset?

Are you asking about Virtual Reality (VR) simulators in particular or just simulators in general. Cheers, Nigel

Couldn’t find anything at all except this BM thread then I realised there is a typo in the thread title - it has 15 when it should be 16. But even when corrected, I could find articles and pictures but no interior shots to speak of. There do seem to be examples in museums so the photos may be out there. Cheers, Nigel

Started to see some teasers for this new drama done by the makers of Peaky Blinders series due in Autumn this year. Looks interesting.

I have built a few. They are a weird scale, specifically for 28mm war gaming which makes them about 1:56. Being wargaming models they are generally simplified but I would say that they are at the more detailed end of the wargaming models - for wargaming some have a little bit more detail, some that is unlikely to survive much handling. If you are looking for plastic display modelling, rather than wargaming, I would be inclined to look at 1:48 as they tend to have more detail and oddly are often can be found cheaper than the 1:56 wargaming models. Sometimes you can even find 1:35 models cheaper. For example, a Tamiya 1:35 Kubelwagen is cheaper than a Rubicon 1:56 Kubelwagen - and a lot more detailed. The Rubicon plastic is also a little strange. It seems to be a very slightly more flexible and more resilient than the usual polystyrene - I sort of like ABS. Tamiya extra thin will usually bond the plastic but sometime it resists. Rubicon recommend a weld type glue called Plastic Magic. If you go to the Rubicon forum you can see all the instructions and that will give you idea of the detail and complexity. http://forum.rubiconmodels.com/index.php?board=5.0 In summary, as wargaming models they are very nice, as display models I would look at 1:48. Cheers, Nigel

Note that he says that he wants to include the box in the display cabinet too - it may be that the box dictates the size of the case more than the model. Cheers, Nigel

Nice, makes you realise how tight a fit the Merlin is on the deck. An inch or two forward and you risk a main rotor strike, an inch or two back and you risk a tail rotor strike. Must take some real skill to land that thing on a pitching deck. Cheers, Nigel

Just watched it - a very grim event indeed. Cheers, Nigel