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nheather

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Everything posted by nheather

  1. nheather

    Loyd Carrier

    It’s the PSC models I am making but in 15mm rather than 20mm (1:72). What is shapeways. - I mean I can google it and find 3D Printing Services home page but unsure where to go from there. Cheers, Nigel
  2. nheather

    Loyd Carrier

    Never mind, answered my own question. Typical, I googled loads, not finding anything before posting here. Then after I had posted I tried a different google approach and bingo. If anyone else is interested https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/Loyd-Carrier-Mk.I-II-Tracked.-Towing-6-pdr-Anti-Tank-Gun-Tractor.html#gallery_start Cheers, Nigel
  3. nheather

    Loyd Carrier

    Hi, Anyone got or seen photos or diagrams that show the seats in a Loyd Carrier (the one used as a 6 pdr tow), the instructions for the Bronco kit would also do. I’m building some 15mm scale (approx 1:100) wargaming models, which have four crew figures but I don’t want to use them so will need to put some plastic card in to represent the seat backs. I don’t really care too much about authenticity and if I can’t find anything I’ll just use some rectangles of plastic card as I imagine best. But even so it would be nice to see some pictures showing what they were actually like. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Hi, Maybe not the best place to post, but I figure as this is quite specific to tanks tracks some of you may have encountered this and have some excellent advice and suggestions. In addition to my normal 1:35 model making, I do table top wargaming in various scales 28mm (1:56), 20mm (1:72) and 15mm (1:100). Because wargaming models have to be robust the track, suspension and wheels are usually moulded as a single piece. More often than not, this piece as a mould line down the centreline of the track. With smaller tanks and particularly at smaller scales the gaps between each track tread is narrow - too narrow for needle files. Advice I’m after is any smart ways to clean up these seams. The part running on top of the treads is not an issue, it is the gaps between the treads. Normally I resort to scalpel blades and folded wet and dry but that is mind numbing given the number of links and when you have 20 tanks to do. Just wondering if there are any clever solutions and could reduce the trudge. Cheers, Nigel
  5. Just a reminder for anyone ordering now in the UK from the German warehouse. From 1st Jan we fully won’t be in the EU and looks like it will be without a trade deal. I recently ordered (and received) a watch from Germany so I looked into what would happen if it were delivered after 31st Dec and here is the gist of what I found. If you can demonstrate that the item was sent before the 1st Jan then you won’t have to pay any import duty or taxes - or if you do, you can get them refunded. If however, the item is despatched after 31st Dec, regardless of when it was ordered, then there will be UK VAT and potentially WTO import taxes to pay. In this case the courier will charge their usual admin fee but on top of that, an additional Brexit charge (around £5) to cover the predicted disruption. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Moved on from 500, just had a 503 error. Same thing though, refresh the browser and it goes away. Cheers, Nigel
  7. Looking for reasonably priced F1 kits - do they exist. Christmas present for an F1 nut who is not a modeller - I don’t want to spend much, no more than £30. I may be asking for the impossible. I started looking at Tamiya, expecting there to be loads, but surprised to find very few and those that I did find are from the 60s and 70s racing years. The only one that fits my price range is the odd six wheeled Tyrell, which I think is too unusual and pretty ugly around the cockpit. Are there any other makes to consider or am I asking for the impossible. Metal, simply screw together, like Burago used to do would also be of interest. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Recently, I have been getting this virtually every time I navigate to the website for the first time, just happened a couple of minutes ago. I am experiencing it on iPadOS and Safari. Like others, a page refresh clears it instantly and then I don’t get it again for the session. I have also seen a different but similar message amounting in the same way - but I can’t recall what it was - thinking it was something suggesting the site was down for maintenance. Cheers, Nigel
  9. I have a set of these and an assortment of sticky back sanding papers. They are nice shapes and well made but overall I was a little disappointed. The problem is not the sticks but the self adhesive part of the sanding paper. The adhesive part is relatively thick when compared with the narrow and thin sticks and I found the sticky edge becomes to prominent when creating very narrow sanders. I found the very thin sticks quickly became gummy sticks rather than sanding sticks. BTW - this is using the official sanding sheets. Cheers, Nigel
  10. Are you just interested in Espresso or do you want to do milk coffees like lattes and cappuccinos. If the latter, my recommendation is the Nespresso Creatista Plus. It’s expensive, but the only Nespresso machine I’ve had that does milk coffees well. Temperature is not a problem unlike the Nespresso Lattissima I tried previously. Had ours now for about two years and it is still going strong. Cheers, Nigel
  11. Stunning build - I appreciate seeing OOB builds. Innocent question as I know very little about cruise ships. I was surprised that the lifeboats do not have covers but initially put that down to the Airfix model. But I’ve done a bit of googling and every archive picture of the actual ship shows open lifeboats, so the model is accurate. So what happens when it rains - do they fill up with water? Cheers, Nigel
  12. I too have this dilemma, especially with tracks and wheels. Do I assemble everything first, you will get a neater and stronger bond that way. Or do I paint the wheels and tracks first as that will be easier and neater to paint. And what if the tracks are half hidden fenders and skirts. Do I leave them off until the end, it’ll be a lot easier but then you have got a nasty glue jointed on your painted work to sort out. The one saving grace with AFVs is weathering (mud, dirt and grime) which can hide a lot of sins. By the way, I don’t have answers, I don’t think there are any, just personal preferences. Cheers, Nigel
  13. Agreed. I find optivisors are great when dedicated to detail work. But glance up to look away from the work and you can’t see a thing. Sure you can flip them up and down as required but that gets a little tedious. Oh for young eyes again. Hoping the bifocals work. Cheers, Nigel
  14. I have tried several, an optivisor (DA5), reading glasses, a headband with a set of plastic lenses - the best is the optivisor - but it is mot perfect by any means. The main problem is that it’s fine looking at the work, but when you peer at the desk to pick up a file, or wash rinse your brush everything is blurry. I’ve tried vaifocals - they don’t work because they can’t be made with the range of magnification required - I mean you can’t have a high magnification in the reading part and much lower magnification in the intermediate and distance. I took my optivisor used for details, some glasses that work for more general desk work and even some examples of the wargaming figures that I paint into the optician. They produced some - they were fine for the desk but the detail portion was far too weak - when I rejected them, the optician said that was the most extreme they could achieve with varifocals. Going to try some occupational bi-focals when the lockdown lifts. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Yes, stock 0.4mm. Layer height = 0.12mm. Cheers, Nigel
  16. Even if you just have one airbrush, a quick release is good for cleaning or swapping over needle/nozzle sets - lot easier to do those tasks without a hose connected. Cheers, Nigel
  17. That is amazing. The first six photos it looked like really skilful modelling but it still looked quite basic and then suddenly the finished model and wow. If it weren’t for the fact that I knew it was a model it could easily be taken for the real thing. Cheers, Nigel
  18. Thanks for the info. Vallejo have glaze medium https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/auxiliaries-model/glaze-medium-70596/ and thinner medium https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/auxiliaries-model/thinner-70524/ I think they intend thinner medium as the thinners for model color but seems an expensive way of doing it. Your way sounds better. Cheers, Nigel
  19. My experience is that Model Color is pretty thick when new and thickens with age. To get a smooth finish you need to thin down, either with water, or water seeping up through a wet palette or other thinners (the ultimate universal thinners claims to be compatible). They do a thinner medium but not sure that is intenders as thinners as it is only available in small bottles. Conversely, although they Model Air that they claim to be usable from the bottle, they do make a thinners for it. Cheers, Nigel
  20. Do Vallejo make a thinners for their Model Color range. Whenever I search for Vallejo Thinners I get hits for Model Air Thinners but nothing specific for Model Color. Is their Model Air Thinners to be used for all their paint ranges, including Model Color, just badly named? Cheers, Nigel
  21. OMG, that’s disgusting, he’s not got any clothes on. Cheers, Nigel
  22. I like that brush and tool rack - do you remember where you got it, what make it is? Cheers, Nigel
  23. nheather

    Paint Shaker

    I’ve been watching some videos of vortex mixers on Youtube, looks very promising. But as you say, on Amazon and eBay they seem to be £40 to £100. So the AliExpress sounds like a good deal but there is risk of VAT and courier fees which will push it towards the £40 mark anyway - but there is a chance it will get through unchecked for £20. One concern I have if buying a more expensive one is the durability of the rubber top. It is designed for nice smooth test tubes so I wonder whether hard ridges paint bottle tops will wear the rubber top prematurely and tear it. Cheers, Nigel
  24. nheather

    Paint Shaker

    Thanks Carlos, that looks interesting. I started off wanting a Robart mixer but for whatever reason they have never been available in the UK other than a opportunistic over-priced imports. That is why I ended up with the Nail Polish Shaker which does a decent job, but I will certainly take a look at the one you have linked. I use Vallejo, many not often enough, they all have marine grade bearings but even then are very difficult to mix up properly sometimes. Often have to resort to removing the top and going in with a skewer. Cheers, Nigel
  25. nheather

    Paint Shaker

    Just a heads up. If you are interested in paint shakers you may start seeing adverts for one by Timodel which vaguely implies that it has been designed specifically for the model industry. For example the latest Airfix magazine is promoting it in their product news. Just be aware that this appears to be identical to the Chinese Nail Polish shakers that have been on the market for years and can be bought from the likes of Amazon, eBay, Aliexpress for much less (as low as 50%) than the one being offered by Timodel. Not saying that the Timodel isn’t good, just that it looks identical in every way to alternatives that can be bought much more cheaply. If you see the Timodel one and are tempted, by all means buy it, you main have valid reasons for wanting that one, just letting you know that you can buy a practically identical alternative for less. Here is a photo of the Timodel version Here is a photo of my Nail Polish Shaker. Cheers, Nigel
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