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Everything posted by nheather

  1. So when you say it is blocked, is that no air coming out or air but no paint. Cheers, Nigel
  2. Personally I would persevere a little more with the Tamiya, or if you must replace, get a branded airbrush. Is the problem that you are not getting any airflow when you operate the trigger. If so, I’d first remove the air valve and connect up - the air will be always on, like holding the trigger, but if that sprays water okay then you know the fault is the air valve. So you can then concentrate on the air valve or simply replace with a spare part. My experience with the Chinese clones is one of inconstancy. At first glance they look great but the reality is that they lack quality control - it is the luck of the draw whether you get a good one or not. The weakest area seems to be the seals and o-rings. They can’t seem to make decent ones, especially the tiny ones on the nozzle. The ones I have seen have always been soft and malformed so hit or miss whether they seal. I have tried to source decent replacements but I never found anywhere that sold nozzle o-rings on their own. Airbrush wax will improve or fix the problem but for me there are too many variables to get right when airbrushing and I prefer and iffy airbrush not to add to them. There are some decent good value branded airbrushes out there you don’t have to spend hundreds. What trigger style are you after, traditional top button or pistol style? Cheers, Nigel
  3. Yeah, I've been talking about landing skids to top of engines. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Many thanks for all the photos/stills, I've kept two in the quoted text.. I still think it is taller that 2.5 Mandalorians, maybe not the 4 that I suggested but somewhere in between. If you look at these two photos, using the door as reference (the door is taller than a Manadalorian), I'd say that is 3 doors tall at least (on it's skids). I do hope that Revell do a decent kit in the correct proportions - it will make a nice Christmas present, but I do fear that they will squish it to save plastic. Cheers, Nigel
  5. Yeah, I made that point on the main thread specifically about the bargain. I pointed out that even when at the low end of the fluctuation is is a good deal but not a great one. I think the AB that comes with it is a 0.2mm - so if you wanted to add a 0.4mm later you would almost be better off buying the 2in1 up front and then get the paints you actually want. At the top end, it is a poor deal. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Another take on size. Hasbro are running a crowd-funding model that is compatible with the Star Wars (3.75") miniature figures. That would put the scale at around 1:18. The size of the model is quoted as Height - 10.5" Width = 20" Length = 30" Translating that to full size Height = 4.8m Width = 9.1m Length = 13.7m In 1:72 that would become Height = 67mm Width = 127mm Length = 190mm Much smaller than suggested in the other speculations I have found. But I'm still not convinced. It looks bigger than that in the TV series - I recall that the hull has a full height upstairs and downstairs - it looked taller than 4.8m. Appreciate that there are angles and perspectives but in that photo it looks at least four Mandalorians high. Cheers, Nigel
  7. I've read a few stories along these lines recently. One thing that isn't clear and not reported well, is whether sales tax is being charged at the point of purchase. In the past a Dutch company would have added Dutch VAT and then no more was due because of the EU agreement. Now that agreement no longer exists the Dutch company should not be charging VAT - and then UK VAT is added on import. But I suspect what is happening in this transition phase is that people are being charged VAT twice. In that case, if worth the effort you have every right to go back to the Dutch company or country and reclaim the Dutch VAT. In these early days mistakes are understandable as sellers get to grips with the change. Also purchases made in 2020 but delivered in 2021 are particularly awkward. But it should all settle down and should become like buying from the US. VAT and import tax should not really change the price much - unfortunately it is the courier admin fees that are unpalatable. Cheers, Nigel
  8. I share your fears. When I see stills from the TV series of the Razor Crest with people alongside it does seem quite a big ship, a fair bit bigger than a V-22 I'd say. In true 1/72 scale it would be a substantial model - I only hope that Revell are true to that and don't just put 1:72 on the box and take liberties with the contents. I think one of the things that contributes to its bulk is its height. It is pretty large any way but particulary tall. Cheers, Nigel
  9. You can do that just as easy with the tiny Iwata nozzles - you can be thankful it wasn't one of those because they are eye-wateringly expensive. I can recommend the Iwata nozzle wrench - still a wrench but with it you have much more control and it is a lot easier to keep the nozzle central as you tighten it. If you want more robust nozzles then the cartridge style design of H&S or the Iwata Eclipse might be more to your liking. Cheers, Nigel
  10. I did some googling and someone suggested the full size would be 26.5m long by 17.75m wide. In 1:72 that would be a pretty chunky 368mm x 247mm Cheers, Nigel
  11. Any thoughts on how large the Revell model in 1/72 would be? Cheers, Nigel
  12. Are there any putty/filler products that are soft to apply but set hard. Ones that I have tried do the job but end up flexible or chalky. Tamiya putty for example - Tamiya products are normally great but the putty that I have is nice and soft, easy to apply but when it dries it shrinks and remains flexible like a hard rubber. I also use the Vallejo stuff with a very thin nozzle - I like that, certainly for precision jobs, but it always seems a little chalky when set. It would be really nice to have something that sets like polystyrene plastic and can be sanded and scribed just like plastic. Interested in other recommendations. I'm not talking about the two part clays like green stuff or milliput - they have their place for moulding but I'm talking about filling holes and gaps. Cheers, Nigel
  13. Yep, totally different. I was talking about this https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Iwata-Airbrush-Cleaning-Kit.html Cheers, Nigel
  14. Are we talking about the same thing or has it changed since I bought mine. What are the grips and needle seal screwdrivers - nothing fitting that description in my set. Mine has Nozzle Wrench - I like this LED Magnifier - could be good but unfortunately, poorly made - I have to clean and bend the switch contacts to get the LED to work each time I use it Cleaning Brushes - fine but they are just interdental brushes Pipe cleaners - fine, but they are just pipe cleaners Super Lube - some say it is good, some say it gums up - whatever you might already have a tube or two with airbrushes purchase - I have three tubes now Airbrush cleaner - fine but gentle and a tiny bottle - you probably already have a bigger bottle already - if not IPA or acetone will do the job Wipes - fine but kitchen towel and IPA or the Poundland spectacle wipes do the same thing Box - it's a plastic box I'm not saying the contents don't work, just that you could be paying a lot more than you need. And as for really stubborn dried on paint - I don't think this kit will help much - some of it yes but you will be looking for other products. I agree with you on the metal reamer, I have one but I would be very nervy about using it. But the cleaner doesn't have the oomph - would need to use acetone (or liquid reamer - same thing in an aerosol). Cheers, Nigel
  15. Question to figure painters - when painting do you leave the heads off, paint and then assemble. Or assemble then paint. Guess the same goes for other parts too. My figures are mostly for wargaming, many are one piece white metal so I have no choice but a good number are plastic multi-part. Because they are to be handled on the gaming table rather than put in a display cabinet I like to have every part securely glued so tend to assemble as much as I can before painting. But I'm in two minds about the heads. Cheers, Nigel
  16. Just throw this in. I did a figure painting class by a guy that wins competitions, most wargames fantasy stuff. He told us that he only uses two brushes for main painting, a 1 and a 2. He argued that a point is a point and you can't get any smaller than that and more important is having a sizable paint reservoir (the bristles above to point) to keep the tip wet and flowing. Must admit I still feel more comfortable with a smaller brush though - but I suspect that is more perception than reality. Cheers, Nigel
  17. A thought on this. Can't say I have ever seen any thread sealant on my two Iwata airbrushes but I am aware of the purpose. But if it is so important to replace when reassembling why isn't in the Iwata cleaning set - why do you have to go and buy need was separately. This is an example why I'm not that impressed with the cleaning kit - in my opinion it only covers basic gentle cleaning which is fine but you can achieve that much cheaper. My personal experience - I have the Iwata cleaning set but on top of that I have felt the need to buy Bees Wax Liquid Reamer A cleaning brush and reamer set To be fair, the bees wax is not for my Iwatas, never had the need, it was to try and make good a cheap Chinese clone. Cheers, Nigel
  18. Small nozzles are fine as long as the paint is thin enough and more importantly, the pigment grain is small enough. Some paint has coarser pigment and will block small nozzles more frequently. This applies to some makes and ranges but also more generally to primers and metallics. The badger (UMP is the same stuff) primer actually specifies a nozzle of 0.4mm or greater on the label. Cheers, Nigel
  19. I have the Iwata cleaning kit - in my opinion the only thing of any value in there is the nozzle wrench - it is much safer to use on the tiny Iwata nozzles than the spanner that comes with the airbrush. The rest - well it is okay but nothing that you can't buy a lot cheaper elsewhere. The magnifier is cheaply made - I have found that on the few occasions that I have tried to use it I have had to take it apart to adjust and clean the electrical contacts so that the light works. The pipe cleaners are just pipe cleaners. The brushes are just inter-dent brushes. The cleaner - not as strong as cellulose. The lube - you may have some anyway with your brush and some say it is not so good as it goes gummy with time (can't say I am seen that). There is no reamer. If you have a stubbon dried blockage in the nozzle I don't think the Iwata kit would be that much use to be honest. It's okay for general mild regular cleaning but you can achieve that much more cheaply but not so good for tough jobs. The wrench is good though. Cheers, Nigel
  20. Just back from Tesco. Plenty of both on the shelf. As far as I could see they are two separate items. Each scans in their own right and scanning them both simply adds the two prices together - no discount. Cheers, Nigel
  21. Good call. My experience is when a magazine comes with extras in the newsagent they are all enclosed in a sealed plastic bag. Cheers, Nigel
  22. Hopefully a mistake, because if the catalogue is being offered for free at the newsagent but not to subscribers then they had every opportunity to tell us. Because I assume that all subscribers, like me, got an email before Christmas explaining that because of logistics subscriebrs would get their copies after it was available to the general public. i accepted that (still waiting for my copy) but if it turns out that joe public is getting the catalogue free too I will be most miffed. Cheers, Nigel
  23. nheather

    PAK 38/40

    Thanks, yes I found that out last night. The first wheels (on the PAK 38 at least) were pressed aluminium wheels - a lot of the PAK 38 was aluminium but the carriage was later changed to steel as aluminium was needed for aircraft production. Cheers, Nigel
  24. nheather

    PAK 38/40

    Hi, A question about the wheels on the PAK 38/40 gun carriage. I assume the spoked wheels came first, roughly when did they swap over to the solid wheels. And would a PAK 38 ever had solid wheels? Cheers, Nigel
  25. nheather

    Loyd Carrier

    They look very nice, but there are so many approximations in 15mm wargaming models I’ll just stick some plasticard on the back of the seat bases that are already present - good enough for my needs. Cheers, Nigel
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