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nheather

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Everything posted by nheather

  1. They made the bottles and spouts out of a material that CA does not stick to. Seriously, I’d appreciate any advice on how to look after my bottles. I buy ZAP CA, prepared to spend considerable more for what I presume is a better product. I have all three viscosities in the 1 oz bottles. No matter how well I try to look after them excess glue seams to appear (presumably after I have used it and replace the cap) and drip down the spout. I then end up with a cap that no longer has that satisfying click when it closes and a nozzle that gets blocked, either with a hard glue plug or a gel. And to clear it, my only option seems to ram the offending plug/gel back down into the bottle for it reappear when I try to use it next. As for the glue on the spout, I have tried chipping it off but the spout seems to be made of a plastic that CA really works well adhering to. Appreciate any advice - otherwise I’m seriously thinking of swapping to smaller cheaper alternatives to Zap in the future.
  2. On Friday while my car was parked in the small car park outside my local Budgens store, when some careless soul decided to scrape their car along my rear bumper and then drive off without stopping. A kindly witness got her phone out and snapped some pictures of the departing offender - unfortunately, although very sharp, by the time she had managed to snap the first shot the car was too far away to make out the licence number. Not expecting much help, I asked in Budgens whether they had CCTV and to my surprise they were extremely helpful and offered to look through the footage from their two cameras. They were able to find the offending car parked, then leaving, scraping my car on the way out - but the quality was so poor it was impossible to make out the registration number. I had high hopes. I know reality is not like the TV where the CSI team can enhance the blurry reflection on the victims eye and ‘enhance’ it in a full HD image so that they can read the name badge of the assailant, but these cameras were no more than 15 yards from the parked car. This was in the middle of the day, bight and clear weather, if the CCTV can’t even make out a licence number less than 15 yards away under those conditions you have to wonder what the point of it is. Cheers, Nigel
  3. Whoops, didn’t spot you were in the US. I have looked on and off for the past year or two and struggled to find anyone in the UK with a decent range selling to the public. The dealers page that you linked just gives four distributing agents in the UK, not retailers so I would be surprised if they would deal with enquiries from joe-public. Actually one of them does have a site but that turns out to be for climbing gear who do stock Vallorbe products, but only ones designed for working with chainsaws. It’s better just to google for ‘vallorbe uk’ and that does turn up retailers but they tend to just offer Cut 0 and Cut 2 which I imagine are too harsh for what I need. I could do with some advice - my primary need is to work on the white metal of wargaming miniatures. This metal is pretty soft, you can trim flash and mould lines with a scalpel but the figures have tricky areas to get too so files are great. The trouble is that the metal is so soft that my common or garden needle files (traditional and diamond) leave visible scratches in the metal. Is there a cut that would avoid that. What cuts would you recommend for working with softer metals. Cheers, Nigel
  4. Hi, apologies gor jumping on this thread, but may I ask where you buy your needle files from. I have been looking for some very fine ones for working with white metal wargaming figures - ones that can get into tight places and leave a smooth surface rather than scratches. Many thanks, Nigel
  5. 2mm letter by letter, each letter two decals - my eyes are swimming with just the thought of it Cheers, Nigel
  6. I shall be following this one. Got to love China’s bare faced cheek ‘No Sony, this isn’t Aloy at all, this is Future Shooter Girl” Cheers, Nigel
  7. Don’t know about specific Cromwell versions but googling finds archive photos showing Cromwells with hedge cutters. I doubt there were many that actually had the mod though. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Many thanks for the comprehensive response, one question though. Do the Mars 2 and the Mars 2 Pro not have the same Z-drive arrangement. I know on the originals, the Mars had a dual rod whereas the Mars Pro had a rail, but from what I can see with the version 2 both the standard and Pro have the same rail system. As far as I can see the differences between the Mars 2 and the Mars2 Pro are Plastic vs metal resin vat Pro has carbon filter Green vs red cover Reviews are saying that though having a plastic vat may seem inferior there is no real difference - besides you can buy metal vats cheaply. That the value of the carbon filter is questionable as the recommendation is to still make sure the work area is well ventilated - it also points out that the replacement filters are quite pricey and difficult to get hold of. And green vs red is just cosmetic. The reviews conclude that the Mars 2 performance is identical to the Mars 2 Pro and there is little gained from paying extra for the Pro. Chronologically, Elegoo just released the Mars 2 Pro, the Mars 2 standard came later. Cheers, Nigel
  9. When I was looking at printers last year, before mono, the main criticism of the entry level Photon and Mars was the Z- Drive which as better in the the higher models and there were even third-party add-ons. The main function difference between the photon and the mars was how the bed was levelled. The other differences were minor - like the location of the USB port. Was any of that improved when they brought out the mono versions of the photon and mars - did they improve the Z-Drives? And for anyone that has tried the Photon and Mars, which is the easiest and more reliable to level? Cheers, Nigel
  10. Any views on the comparison between: Anycubic Photon Mono and Elegoo Mars 2, I imagine that they are pretty much the same, looking for those small differences, those slight edges. I’ve tried a lot of googling but all I seem to find is Anycubic Photon Mono vs Elegoo Mars 2 Pro which is not quite like for like. Cheers, Nigel
  11. Fantastic model. Out of interest what are those chains on the back - I’ve seen them in pictures before and always wondered what they are for. Cheers, Nigel
  12. I noticed the price of IPA shot up at the start of the pandemic, I presume because it is the main component of hand sanitiser. Before the pandemic I was used to paying £20 delivered for a 5 litre bottle, but I saw it shoot up as much as £80. It has now settled back down and you can actually buy it slightly cheaper than £20 now. Cheers, Nigel
  13. . The point is that the Airfix Cromwell is not the only option. They decided to choose a model that was already pretty well covered - and in my opinion, if you are going to do that you must do one of two things Produce a model that is cheaper than what is currently available Or produce a model that is better than what is currently available Airfix have not managed either of those. If they had produced something that was Hobson's Choice, let's say they had done a Matilda I and it had faults. I wouldn't be moaning, I would be rushing to buy it because it would be the only option. But with the Cromwell they have attacked a difficult place. There is already a Tamiya Cromwell, which despite being nearly 25 years old is pretty good. And being one of Tamiya's older models is it priced competitively. So Airfix have produced a model that is around the same price and no better (you might say it is worse) than the Tamiya offering. So yes if it were a Convenanter with the wrong number of wheel bolts I doubt you would have all these pages, people would be queuing up to buy it. But as it is a Cromwell, why bother, just buy the Tamiya instead. And that, in my opinion, is the issue. Airfix have decided to go toe to toe with Tamiya rather than a gap in the market and have failed to produce a winner. Cheers, Nigel
  14. Isn’t that quite common with Airfix though. For example, I have a 1:48 tropical Hurricane. But I note it also has the parts to build a standard Hurricane or a Sea Hurricane each of which have been available as separate kits. The only difference between all three is the decals. They could have included decals for all three but I guess that is the extra cost and would mean that they would have less kits in their catalogue and release schedules. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Thanks for those comparison photos - just based on those parts I’d have to conclude that the Tamiya parts look significantly better. Cheers, Nigel
  16. Agreed. The same thing was going through my head. I’m not sure it is a great analogy but it is along the right lines. I can’t believe the suggestions that I should have to pay £10 to correct a £26 model. As for movie analogies defending model errors, that is different again. There are not a vast number of P-51s to choose out there so the film makers have a choice, use what real aircraft is available or use CGI, which would you prefer. People starving in the world is again irrelevant. Yes it is sad, no one is denying that, but this is about the hobby, whether you buy the Airfix or the Tamiya Cromwell is not going to change world poverty. Unless you are suggesting we should stop making models altogether and give all the money we would have spent to charity. And finally, as for the number of nuts on the wheels. Yes many kits have errors. The issue with this one is that it is pretty fundamental, it’s not like you have to go to a museum and make a detailed study of a real vehicle to work it out. I reckon if you gave a picture of a Cromwell to some kids at school and said “copy this” then yes, there would be plenty of inaccuracies but I doubt the number of nuts on the wheels would be one of them. It’s actually easier to draw a set of eight nuts than a set of six. And the other issue is this was a big event, Airfix’s first ever, new tool 1:35 armour model. It was heralded with a fanfare, it was a chance for Airfix to say “take us seriously we can do 1:35 just as good as Tamiya, maybe even better” and possibly they blew that opportunity. So it’s not so much about two missing nuts but a lost opportunity. I’m hoping that this doesn’t ruin sales too much that it puts Airfix off doing more 1:35. I’m looking forward to their ambulance and hope they can redeem themselves. Unfortunately, it is not the sort of model I am interested in so I won’t be buying that one either but I have fingers crossed that it will be excellent, will sell well and encourage Airfix to do more 1:35. So for me, I’m sad because I was looking forward to this Cromwell (even though I have the Tamiya one in my stash) and now I won’t be buying it. So you could say the number of nuts isn’t an issue for me modelling-wise because I’m not going to have to deal with the issue. I certainly wouldn’t consider shaving them off and sticking on replacements, nor would I consider buying after-market. Why, because my skills are not good enough - if I tried the ‘shave and replace’ it would look a mess, and finished results, my ability, just doesn’t warrant getting sucked into expensive after-market stuff. Cheers, Nigel
  17. You need to consider how many and the configuration of the LEDs you are driving. The current of the PSU must exceed the total on current of all the LEDs. For example if your circuit has 30 LEDs on at a time then you will need at least 300mA so you should choose a supply that meets that plus a little headroom. But voltage is important too. If your LEDs are all configured as singles in parallel then you only need a 5V supply. Anything more will be dropped across the current limiting resistors and wasted as heat - uf you are dropping a lot of voltage across the resistors then you might even need to consider their power rating. If using higher voltage supplies you want to consider identifying LEDs that are always lit at the same time and wiring those in series. Consider this example You have a 12v supply and five LEDs. If you wire them singly in parallel then the current through the resistor is 50mA and the voltage across the resistor is 10V. You would need a (10/0.05) 200 ohm resistor. The power wasted across the resistor is (10 x 0.05) 0.5W which is too much for the miniature resistors which tend to be 0.25W or 0.125W - so you will need a bigger resistor and it will get hot. But if I wire those 5 LEDs in series then the total drop across them is 10V. This leaves just (12-10) 2V across the current limiting resistor. And the current is just 10mA - it is the same 10mA that flows through each of the LEDs. So the resistor needed is (2/0.01) 200 ohms but the power in that resistor is just (2 x 0.01) 0.02W that is 25 times less than the first configuration. You can use a miniature resistor and it will stay nice and cool. And that is how those strips works. That light transformer you listed - I suspect that is intended for running strip lights under kitchen cabinets. They will be white LEDs so have a higher operating voltage then the red, orange, green types (more like 3.5V compared with 2V) so will be designed to drive sets of three LEDs configured in series. Of course there will be more LEDs than that in the strip, so what they do is to configure them in a hybrid series/parallel arrangement. Let’s say there are 24 LEDs, they might be configured as 8 sets of 3 in parallel. You win’t be obvious because they will be in a strip, but that is what the wiring will be like inside the strip. Cheers, Nigel
  18. That makes sense, it did seem to be a little crazy to be honest. Between 2012 and 2017 I was doing regular business trips to the US. Then the coupon worked on anything, more to the point, although it said limited to one per customer there were no checks done at all. So over a two week trip I would visit a number of times using a 40% coupon each time. I always thought it was pretty crazy - seems like they have finally cottoned on. Cheers, Nigel
  19. Wow that’s incredible - that photo of the wheels, if I didn’t know better I’d swear they were full size. Cheers, Nigel
  20. Thanks, so not to stop smoke signals being sent up into the air saying “here I am”. Cheers, Nigel
  21. Great video. You can see immediately why they added those exhaust deflectors. Those clouds of blue smoke, can you imagine them shooting up into the air when you are trying to hide behind some foliage or bocage. As for the wheels, looks like the designer got fixated with hexagons. The mounting area for the axle caps is hexagonal too. I suspect that is to key the axle cap so that the bolts on it line up with the bolts on the wheels. And I think that is where the thinking went wrong - there are six bolts on the axles cap and I suspect the designer translated that thinking across to the wheels and was distracted by how to make it easy for the builder to ensure that the cap and wheel bolts all lined up nicely. Also the designers are not necessarily interested in the subject nor very experienced. From memory, there was an Airfix documentary and a young lady fresh from university started and was given the job of designing a new Scalextric car. Now I’m sure there was more to it than presented in the documentary but it had it that she was shown the CAD application, what was needed and away she went. In reality I suspect there was lots of familiarisation and tutoring but that would have made for boring TV. So my take is that Airfix salaries probably aren’t that high and designers they can employ may not be that experienced and possibly have no interest in the subject they are modelling. My wife genuinely can’t see the difference between a Spitfire and a Hurricane. I have only got to see a tiny fraction of the aircraft and it is obvious to me. To her they are are the same brown and green aircraft and it is only with careful studying that she can see the differences - even then she says they are minor and wouldn’t be noticeable unless you looked carefully. I’m the same with curtains, they all look the same, which frustrates my wife for who the differences in stitching, how they hang, how they are ruffed, how they are made, the material etc. are as plain as day. Cheers, Nigel
  22. The maths. As a rule of thumb an LED has 2V across it and needs 10mA for a decent illumination. In reality the actual voltage varies depending on the colour and can be 3V or so and the current can be up to 30mA, the higher the current the brighter but there is a limit to how much current. But as a general rule 2V and 10mA work well. Take a single LED. If the supply voltage is 5V then you will have 2V across the LED so you need (5-2) 3V across the current limiting resistor. You want the current to be 10mA (0.01A) so using Ohm’s law the resistance needed is Voltage/Current so 3/0.01 = 300 ohms But what if you have multiple LEDs in parallel. Let’s use two as an example. The voltage across the resistor is still 3V. But the current required is now 20mA because you need 10mA for each LED. The the resistor needed for two LEDs in parallel is 3/0.02 = 150 ohms. If you want seven LEDs in parallel the current through the resistor is now 70mA. So the resistor needed is 3/0.07 = 43 ohms. Note resistors come in certain sizes so just puck the one nearest to the calculated value. In your example above, I think the 330 you have been specified is for ONE LED. If you use a single resistor to drive SEVEN LEDs the current through each LED will be very small, may not be enough to light them at all or if it does they may be very dim. Cheers, Nigel
  23. nheather

    Covid Jab

    I knew that the Scots benefitted from free prescriptions and free university education but I didn't realise that they got free luxury cars too - outrageous Cheers, Nigel
  24. Thanks for the info. Interesting what you say about the Wash and Cure. Must admit that I don’t know much about them, just read various recommendations. How do they work? Why would it waste more resin and solvent (I assume that is IPA). Cheers, Nigel
  25. I wouldn't go that far, no reason to think it will be bad. My only concern is that if the Cromwell doesn't do as well as expected that may discourage Airfix from doing more 1:35 armour. Cheers, Nigel
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