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nheather

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Everything posted by nheather

  1. Thanks for the tip. They seem to have a number all at decent prices. My only disappointment is that they tend to be of a generic or cartoon style. I guess one of the things that makes Napoleonic wargaming so expensive is not just the number of figures involved but the massive variety of unit types, nations and regiments and the complexity of the uniforms. Cheers, Nigel
  2. I don’t doubt, I really can’t speak for others. Clearly if I wanted to print of multiple models then it is good value. But what I was saying that for me personally, for 28mm skirmish gaming I would only need one. At that rate, $12 for the design file is not such a great saving over a rubicon model for £18. Cheers, Nigel
  3. What does that mean? Cheers, Nigel
  4. Yes I appreciate that. Even at $12 they are well priced, but at 28mm I’m playing skirmish games like Bolt Action and Chain of Command where you tend to only field single vehicles. At 15mm and 10mm you will want a lot more but there are some pretty acceptable free designs on thingiverse for those scales. Cheers, Nigel
  5. Not come across any 15/18mm in plastic. White metal 15/18mm figures are about £0.48 and £0.65 for each infantry figure and £1.00 to £1.40 for each cavalry figure. Gets quite pricey when you need to have hundreds in an army. So I reckon there are substantial savings to be made provided I can find the designs to print from. They do have some on thingiverse but the designs tend to be quite basic - you can’t complain - they are free, but I prefer to pay for better ones. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Thanks, there are some good looking tanks on that site, a little pricey but okay for my 28mm skirmish games. Anyone know of anywhere that does historical figures, like Napoleonic. Cheers, Nigel
  7. I agree with this. But most of the ‘blame’ I put down to myself - or I should say my poor ability - I just don’t feel my skills are good enough to send 2x the kit price on after market. If I was a skilled modeller, and there was a model that I really wanted, and it was going to be a showpiece then I would be happy to pay for the extras, but even then I wouldn’t start out with the poorest kit unless it was Hobson’s Choice. Even then it would also fepend on how many kits I made - if I had a large stash and I knocked out a kit ever week or two I wouldn’t give it that treatment, but if I bought kits as I built them ‘buy one kit, build one kit’ I may be more inclined to add after market. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Thinking f getting a resin printer, but my main use would be wargaming models - figures and vehicles, 10mm, 15/18mm, 20mm and 28mm. I’ve seen what is available on thingyverse but interested whether there are any sites that offer higher quality designs for sale. Anyone know of any. Cheers, Nigel
  9. Agreed - and if they are bent then I will. But if they drill okay, even if they become blunt quickly then I won’t be bothered to return them. Cheers, Nigel
  10. So this is where I am. I bought some of the jobber drills, did so before the warnings were posted. In hindsight I possibly bought too many, should have just tried one pack at first so may have wasted more money then necessary but in the grand scheme it is small change. So when they arrive I will report back about what I think of them and how they compare with the set of 20 which are potentially titanium coated (based on their finish and colour). Cheers, Nigel
  11. Wow those are cheap. What they are like - I don’t expect them to last long but at that price they are disposable - but are they sharp to start with and stay sharp for a reasonable time
  12. Thanks, but at the moment I’m looking at drills below 1mm. The ubiquitous sets of 20 go from 0.3mm to 1.6mm. Cheers, Nigel
  13. Thanks, yes I have seen those, well ones in sets of 50. Some of the reviews stated that those sets (not the ones you linked) were even ariving with many of drills snapped. I think I’m too heavy handed for those. Cheers, Nigel
  14. Spoken to Proops and they advise that the drills in their assorted set of 20 are identical to the ones that they sell in individual sizes. I’d expect there to be some price advantage but not this massive. Say you have identified 5 sizes that you want To buy two of each (10 drills) = £10.50 compared with two sets (20 drills) = £8.00 To buy five of each (25 drills) = £20.00 compared with five sets (100 drills) = £20.00 To buy ten of each (50 drills) = £35.00 compared with ten sets (1000 drills) = £40.00 So unless you can get it down to there being only a couple of sizes that you use I can’t see the advantage of buying them singly. Cheers, Nigel
  15. This is what I do to. I use Zap 1 oz bottles, bet never apply directly with the spout, or even the thin applicator spout. I always decant a little onto a piece of polythene and then apply with a pin or cocktail stick. The mystery is that when I have finished there is no glue on the spout, I put the cap back on, store it upright - and then some time later I realised that the spout has somehow become caked in dried CA - how does that happen? Cheers, Nigel
  16. Thanks for the tip about the MDF. Cheers, Nigel
  17. Do you think the ones that they sell in quantities of 2, 5 and 10 are better or the same. I ask because their set of 20 assorted is £4, but if you buy a single size you only get 5 for £4. Cheers, Nigel
  18. I’m happy to do that, but clearly don’t want to order 20 different sizes, so are there any sizes that you would recommend. On the other hand, do I just order 10 of the 20 piece sets. What I’m trying to get a handle on with whether the drills in the sets are junk and others may be better and last longer. Cheers, Nigel
  19. I have a set 20 micro drills ranging 0.3mm to 1.6mm - this is the ubiquitous set that you find anywhere from eBay sellers to bigger more respected sellers like Radio Spares with prices ranging from a couple of quid to a tenner or more. But regardless of the seller and the price they all seem to be the exact same product. In the tradition of you get what you pay for, it looks impressive, it seems great value for money but I have always assumed that they are made from Chinesium. And I have pretty much confirm this recently, when pinning some 28mm plastic wargaming soldiers for basing. Using a 0.75mm drill, I have drilled 24 holes, 12 into the figure plastic and 12 into 2mm MDF - moving onto the 13th figure I realise that the drill is now very blunt. So some questions Is this just normal behaviour for micro drills and I would experience the same with more expensive brands Or are better brands better, if so any recommendations please (UK retailer) If buying individually rather than a set, what sizes would you recommend - I’m thinking whether it would be better to buy multiple drills of fewer sizes Thanks for your help and advice, Nigel
  20. I did some reading today and this is what I discovered. If you can remove the spout then soak it is acetone might remove the dried CA Smear the outside of the spout and where the cap joins with petroleum jelly - stops excess glue sticking to spout and lid When finished, hold the bottle up right and squeeze a little a few time so that air comes out and is then pulled back in - this will help pull the residue glue from the spout into the bottle and help prevent the spout from sealing up Started trying 2 and 3, seems to be helping a little though limited because I already have hardened glue but think it would work very well with a new bottle. Cheers, Nigel
  21. It was the shop staff who looked at it initially - they looked at both camera feeds and were unable to make out any of the registration number. They did say that they would get the manager to look at it as he may be able to enhance the image - I did expect he would be able to and sure enough he got back to me apologising that he had tried but that there was nothing that he could. To be honest the shop staff were a lot more helpful then I ever imagined they would be. And you are correct with the private property thing, but to be honest even if it had been on the highway I doubt the Police would do anything. I got a crime number from the non-emergency help desk and that was the 1084th number issued that day. These things happen just annoying that I deny myself nice new kits and tools because they are a bit too extravagant and then some bleep scratches up my rear bumper which is going to cost me several times those extravagances just to get me back to where I was Friday morning. I guess the lesson for us all is if you want that little extravagance just go for it, because it may seem expensive but nothing like the cost of some bleeper scratching your car tomorrow. Cheers, Nigel
  22. Quite likely - and not only that, it was probably put in ten years ago as an ‘install and forget’ so not only is it probably dirty and ill-maintained but its probably technologically woefully out of date. This Budgens also serves as a Post Office - you would have thought they would have better - but seeing some of the antiquated kit at government establishments it doesn’t surprise me one little bit. Cheers, Nigel
  23. They made the bottles and spouts out of a material that CA does not stick to. Seriously, I’d appreciate any advice on how to look after my bottles. I buy ZAP CA, prepared to spend considerable more for what I presume is a better product. I have all three viscosities in the 1 oz bottles. No matter how well I try to look after them excess glue seams to appear (presumably after I have used it and replace the cap) and drip down the spout. I then end up with a cap that no longer has that satisfying click when it closes and a nozzle that gets blocked, either with a hard glue plug or a gel. And to clear it, my only option seems to ram the offending plug/gel back down into the bottle for it reappear when I try to use it next. As for the glue on the spout, I have tried chipping it off but the spout seems to be made of a plastic that CA really works well adhering to. Appreciate any advice - otherwise I’m seriously thinking of swapping to smaller cheaper alternatives to Zap in the future.
  24. On Friday while my car was parked in the small car park outside my local Budgens store, when some careless soul decided to scrape their car along my rear bumper and then drive off without stopping. A kindly witness got her phone out and snapped some pictures of the departing offender - unfortunately, although very sharp, by the time she had managed to snap the first shot the car was too far away to make out the licence number. Not expecting much help, I asked in Budgens whether they had CCTV and to my surprise they were extremely helpful and offered to look through the footage from their two cameras. They were able to find the offending car parked, then leaving, scraping my car on the way out - but the quality was so poor it was impossible to make out the registration number. I had high hopes. I know reality is not like the TV where the CSI team can enhance the blurry reflection on the victims eye and ‘enhance’ it in a full HD image so that they can read the name badge of the assailant, but these cameras were no more than 15 yards from the parked car. This was in the middle of the day, bight and clear weather, if the CCTV can’t even make out a licence number less than 15 yards away under those conditions you have to wonder what the point of it is. Cheers, Nigel
  25. Whoops, didn’t spot you were in the US. I have looked on and off for the past year or two and struggled to find anyone in the UK with a decent range selling to the public. The dealers page that you linked just gives four distributing agents in the UK, not retailers so I would be surprised if they would deal with enquiries from joe-public. Actually one of them does have a site but that turns out to be for climbing gear who do stock Vallorbe products, but only ones designed for working with chainsaws. It’s better just to google for ‘vallorbe uk’ and that does turn up retailers but they tend to just offer Cut 0 and Cut 2 which I imagine are too harsh for what I need. I could do with some advice - my primary need is to work on the white metal of wargaming miniatures. This metal is pretty soft, you can trim flash and mould lines with a scalpel but the figures have tricky areas to get too so files are great. The trouble is that the metal is so soft that my common or garden needle files (traditional and diamond) leave visible scratches in the metal. Is there a cut that would avoid that. What cuts would you recommend for working with softer metals. Cheers, Nigel
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