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Everything posted by nheather

  1. I am doing an experiment, a bit of learning exercise. I have a fairly cheap model that I’m prepared to sacrifice as a test bed - a Tamiya 1:35 Universal Carrier (Bren Gun Carrier if you prefer) and the Eduard photo etch kit. The photo etch is around 100 parts and you can well imagine that as the Universal Carrier is small, even in 1:35, most of the photo etch parts are tiny. So rather than be selective about which PE to use I’ve decided to try and use it all as a learning exercise, to teach me what PE features are worth it and which aren’t. One thing I’m no
  2. Not tried it, but I too have heard a few seconds in the microwave rejuvenates green stuff so I reckon it would work the same for Milliput. Cheers, Nigel
  3. I admire your commitment to modify the standard RCAF kit, not something I could even dream of doing, mind you when I see a lot of the work done on this site I am simply left in awe. Personally, when I look at the Super Chipmunk, the only reason I can tell it is a Chipmunk is because I am aware of the history of its origin. Without that if you were to show me pictures of an RCAF Chipmunk and a Super Chipmunk I might admit some similarities but I would conclude that they are different aircraft. The Super Chipmunk has a bigger engine (70% more powerful), the cowling is co
  4. Yep, that’s a Super Chipmunk. Designed for aerobatics, more powerful engine, bigger control surfaces for aerobatics - look at the rudder for example. The kits you have been looking at are the standard service aircraft used by the RAF and RCAF. The RCAF did have a bubble canopy but it is still pretty much standard, not like the Super Chipmunk that your grandfather flew. There are radio control models, that’s how I was aware of it, but to my knowledge, not a plastic model. Example of one of the RC models https://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pi
  5. You said that your grandfather flew aerobatics in a Chipmunk, just checking that this wasn’t in a Super Chipmunk rather than a RCAF Chipmunk. Do you have photos of the aircraft he flew? Cheers, Nigel
  6. It appeals to me but like many I struggle to use it. Think I have spent as much on photo etch tools (bending jigs, pliers, CA applicators, positioning probes) than on all my other tools and comparatively they barely get used. I really question some of the tinier parts (because of my lack of skill) and question whether the slightly mis-positioned detail they add is worth the CA scarring around them. And some parts don’t look right because they are flat - a good example is that I do 1:35 armour and PE sets often include chains - that doesn’t look right. The o
  7. What metal, how thick, what size holes, are you looking for something hand held or on a drill press. Whatever the answers, I feel the solution lies in the drill bits rather than the thing that spins them. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Well they have arrived - the good news is that they were shipped and delivered very quickly. Now the bad news. Firstly, one of the bags only contained 4 drills (there should be 10) and I found a tear in the bottom of the bag so I guess they have been falling out. If that were the only problem it would be easily resolved. But I tried a few and they are very blunt compared with what I had been using - I may as well use piano wire, probably no worse. So I’m sending them back. Cheers, Nigel
  9. I don’t think commisioning a job would be cost realistic - it’s not like detailed figures are not already available, it’s just that as they are metal and because you need so many it costs a lot. 1:72 packs like Airfix, Revell, Zevezda, HaT are nicely priced but unfortunately don’t lend themselves to rank and file units because of the variety of different poses in each box - the cavalry and artillery are pretty good it is the infantry that are the issue. Cheers, Nigel
  10. Thanks for the tip. They seem to have a number all at decent prices. My only disappointment is that they tend to be of a generic or cartoon style. I guess one of the things that makes Napoleonic wargaming so expensive is not just the number of figures involved but the massive variety of unit types, nations and regiments and the complexity of the uniforms. Cheers, Nigel
  11. I don’t doubt, I really can’t speak for others. Clearly if I wanted to print of multiple models then it is good value. But what I was saying that for me personally, for 28mm skirmish gaming I would only need one. At that rate, $12 for the design file is not such a great saving over a rubicon model for £18. Cheers, Nigel
  12. What does that mean? Cheers, Nigel
  13. Yes I appreciate that. Even at $12 they are well priced, but at 28mm I’m playing skirmish games like Bolt Action and Chain of Command where you tend to only field single vehicles. At 15mm and 10mm you will want a lot more but there are some pretty acceptable free designs on thingiverse for those scales. Cheers, Nigel
  14. Not come across any 15/18mm in plastic. White metal 15/18mm figures are about £0.48 and £0.65 for each infantry figure and £1.00 to £1.40 for each cavalry figure. Gets quite pricey when you need to have hundreds in an army. So I reckon there are substantial savings to be made provided I can find the designs to print from. They do have some on thingiverse but the designs tend to be quite basic - you can’t complain - they are free, but I prefer to pay for better ones. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Thanks, there are some good looking tanks on that site, a little pricey but okay for my 28mm skirmish games. Anyone know of anywhere that does historical figures, like Napoleonic. Cheers, Nigel
  16. I agree with this. But most of the ‘blame’ I put down to myself - or I should say my poor ability - I just don’t feel my skills are good enough to send 2x the kit price on after market. If I was a skilled modeller, and there was a model that I really wanted, and it was going to be a showpiece then I would be happy to pay for the extras, but even then I wouldn’t start out with the poorest kit unless it was Hobson’s Choice. Even then it would also fepend on how many kits I made - if I had a large stash and I knocked out a kit ever week or two I wouldn’t give it that treatment, but
  17. Thinking f getting a resin printer, but my main use would be wargaming models - figures and vehicles, 10mm, 15/18mm, 20mm and 28mm. I’ve seen what is available on thingyverse but interested whether there are any sites that offer higher quality designs for sale. Anyone know of any. Cheers, Nigel
  18. Agreed - and if they are bent then I will. But if they drill okay, even if they become blunt quickly then I won’t be bothered to return them. Cheers, Nigel
  19. So this is where I am. I bought some of the jobber drills, did so before the warnings were posted. In hindsight I possibly bought too many, should have just tried one pack at first so may have wasted more money then necessary but in the grand scheme it is small change. So when they arrive I will report back about what I think of them and how they compare with the set of 20 which are potentially titanium coated (based on their finish and colour). Cheers, Nigel
  20. Wow those are cheap. What they are like - I don’t expect them to last long but at that price they are disposable - but are they sharp to start with and stay sharp for a reasonable time
  21. Thanks, but at the moment I’m looking at drills below 1mm. The ubiquitous sets of 20 go from 0.3mm to 1.6mm. Cheers, Nigel
  22. Thanks, yes I have seen those, well ones in sets of 50. Some of the reviews stated that those sets (not the ones you linked) were even ariving with many of drills snapped. I think I’m too heavy handed for those. Cheers, Nigel
  23. Spoken to Proops and they advise that the drills in their assorted set of 20 are identical to the ones that they sell in individual sizes. I’d expect there to be some price advantage but not this massive. Say you have identified 5 sizes that you want To buy two of each (10 drills) = £10.50 compared with two sets (20 drills) = £8.00 To buy five of each (25 drills) = £20.00 compared with five sets (100 drills) = £20.00 To buy ten of each (50 drills) = £35.00 compared with ten sets (1000 drills) = £40.00 So unless you can get it down to there being only
  24. This is what I do to. I use Zap 1 oz bottles, bet never apply directly with the spout, or even the thin applicator spout. I always decant a little onto a piece of polythene and then apply with a pin or cocktail stick. The mystery is that when I have finished there is no glue on the spout, I put the cap back on, store it upright - and then some time later I realised that the spout has somehow become caked in dried CA - how does that happen? Cheers, Nigel
  25. Thanks for the tip about the MDF. Cheers, Nigel
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