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nheather

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Everything posted by nheather

  1. As this is a small factor 4K, does this mean that it will be offering a higher resolution then the current 2K and 4K printers. I ask this based on my understanding that the current 4K printers are a larger scale offering a bigger build plate so their resolution works out the same as their 2K siblings. But if we are getting a 4K printer with the same build plate size as the current 2K printers that would suggest a higher X and Y resolution? Is that the case? Cheers, Nigel
  2. Stunning - the sea and the wet sand look amazing. Cheers, Nigel
  3. They clearly don’t have much faith in their own product - they pitch it at nail art but the only picture of nail painting they show is using a traditional hairy stick Cheers, Nigel
  4. I have just ordered some 28mm plastic figures for Napoleonic skirmish war gaming. I’ve gone with the Perry ones as they provided what I needed most efficiently and most cost effectively. The only downside is the British infantry figures in particular, are all sculpted to be stood in line formation. I want to model a small number, just six, as light company skirmishers. Clearly the easiest would be to just buy six white metal figures but I’d prefer to keep them all plastic, and prefer not to spend any more. They are multi-part figures (though the torso and legs are one piece) so I was hoping to reshape some of them to express a little more movement, less formality. I have a good number of spares to practice on. I wasn’t planning anything too drastic, never done anything like this before. Thinking whether it is possible to heat up the plastic and gently bend the legs into different positions to suggest that the figure is running/jogging. Maybe the most drastic is to repose a standing firing into a kneeling firing. I'm thinking that creating a moving figure should not be too difficult but a creating a kneeling figure may not be possible because the jacket would need to drape quite differently. Is this possible, reasonably easily, or am I mad even thinking of this. By the way I’m not expecting anything that would be perfectly anatomically correct, just so that it looks the part at gaming distances. Cheers, Nigel
  5. The nozzle will have opposing flats - to use a wrench on. Nozzle really shouldn't be on tight - they are easy to snap. So just cut a rectangle out of a piece is plastic same width as across the flats. That will be enough to work as a wrench. I imagine any plastic sheet 1mm or thicker would work. Of course thin metal sheet would be even better but harder to cut. A flat wooden lolly stick or coffee stirrer would probably work too. Cheers, Nigel
  6. Everything that has been said plus I would add starting with small drills and working your way up to the size required in small increments. Cheers, Nigel
  7. Don’t know anything about them but a quick google found this https://www.3dprintmonkey.co.uk/elegoo-mars-pro-2k-lcd-screen-1771-p.asp Cheers, Nigel
  8. Personally, I think using a programmable controller like a PIC or an Arduino is going to be the easiest. You could use astables but because the flashing isn’t regular you would need at least two then logic and trigger circuits to combine them to create a single LED drive with the combination of slow and fast flash. By the time you have worked all that out the Arduino would be much simpler and cheaper if you value your time. Cheers, Nigel
  9. I have just bought this and the ‘wheels and tracks’ book - both are excellent. One thing I would say about the faces book is that most of the examples are for large scale figures and busts - there is one small section (6 pages) for 1:35 which is what I’m interested in. Cheers, Nigel
  10. Nice. I would love one of these but I feel that my meagre modelling schools don't justify the high price tag. Need to work through some more cheaper models and try to improve my skills first.
  11. I think it looks excellent, I’d be over the moon if I could achieve that level of finish. One minor point for your next AFV build though, although tank interiors were painted white or ivory that rarely (maybe never) applied to the hatches. The reason that when open, a white hatch would make the tank much easier to spot by enemy aircraft. Cheers, Nigel
  12. I agree with this frustration. If they sell a paint called dark green and you read some advice that this is a good match for RLM 71 then if it isn’t quite right then fair enough as they never claimed it was anything other than dark green. But if a manufacturer sells a paint as RLM 71 Dunkelgrun then the dried paint should look like RLM 71. And if you painted samples from different manufacturers claiming to be RLM 71 then they should all look the same, be indistinguishable from each other. Cheers, Nigel
  13. Personally I don’t use much Tamiya paint but there is one attraction for me - availability, because I don’t have any model shops reasonably near. So if I want one particular Vallejo or AK then I have to order online, often paying more for the shipping than the paint. I would love to have a local hobby shop that I could just pop into whenever I need supplies. Instead, I feel I have to order online and wait to bulk up the order to make the shipping worthwhile. So here, Tamiya is attractive because there is a local craft store, the UK equivalent of Hobby Lobby but not as good, where I can pick up Tamiya paints. Though one thing putting me off Tamiya right now is that in the UK they have switched from 23ml bottles to 10ml bottles and kept the price the same. Tamiya used to be the best value paints but now it is the worst. Not sure if that is a UK thing or true in other countries. Cheers, Nigel
  14. I don’t entirely agree with this, of all the acrylic paints I have tried I find that Tamiya are one of the best to airbrush. I do agree that they are a pain to brush paint though. One thing to bear in mind about Tamiya acrylics is that they are not water-based like many of the alternative makes so you must use their thinner (or equivalent) which is alcohol based. This is the main reason why they don’t brush paint very well, the solvent evaporates very quickly so the paint literally dries as you are painting - and there is a tendency to lift paint that has started to dry as you brush over it. One solution is to add retarders to the mix which slows the drying giving you more time to work with the brush - even so not best paints to brush with. Rubber black or NATO black are very useful because very few things that you encounter in life are actually black, if you look more closely they are very dark grey. As a beginner it is natural to paint tyres black, if you ask the population what colour are tyres the vast majority would say black - but they aren’t, they are dark grey. If you paint tyres black they look wrong - using rubber black makes a world of difference. You don’t say what level of modeller you are or what you are trying to achieve . Posters here are correct, Tamiya has a much smaller range than other makes so their colours are more generic. So if you are trying to win awards or just satisfy yourself that colour is historically accurate then Tamiya is not for you. But if your level of modelling is that you don’t want to fussed with all that research, you just want something that looks the part with a simple range of colours without any complex mixing then Tamiya are fine. For example, you can find lengthy discussions about the British equivalent to olive drab, SCC15, no two paint manufacturers seem to agree, you can find complex recipes mixing three or four paints. SCC15 was not the same as US olive drab, but to be honest for many modellers it is close enough especially after you have added some weathering. Besides remember that in real life, vehicles supposedly the same colour coming out of different factories could be different shades. Then there is the elements, the weather, wear and tear, dust mud and grime. Tanks did not stay looking showroom fresh for very long. It would be good to know what nations and eras you want to cover, I’d say there are at least three distinct theatres where allied and german colours were very different - early war (the blitzkrieg years), later war, and western desert. So the colours needed will depend a lot on which of these your models are based. And just because a paint manufacturer has a paint that is named correctly down to the original paint code number doesn’t mean it is accurate. A very good example can be seen in the aircraft section discussing Luftwaffe colours. Luftwaffe colours where assigned RLM numbers - for example the light blue used for the undersides was RLM 65. You can find plenty of manufacturers that will sell you an RLM 65 paint. They reference the original code number so they must all look the same right - wrong, they can be very different so which one is best, that takes a lot of research. One member posted some fantastic work where he shows photos of actual paint chips compared with the paints from various manufacturers - it is quite shocking to see how much they disagree on some colours - look here BTW my take from that chart is that if you want reliable accurate colours from the tin/bottle then WEM (white ensign models) colourcoats appear to be the best. They do maritime and armour too. They brush paint and airbrush excellently. The downside is that they are enamels, so that means they are smelly, potentially more harmful to inhale (though any airbrushing should be done in a ventilated area), cleaning brushes and airbrushes is nasty, and are potentially worse for the environment. On top of that colourcoats are more difficult to find and depending on your country’s laws enamel paint may have shipping restrictions - like incandescent light bulbs, enamel paint is considered bad so many countries are doing their best to eradicate it from existance. Cheers, Nigel
  15. Interested to hear how you paint British WWII AFV interiors. White - is it actually white, or some kind of off-white Even if it was white do you paint it as white or use an off white What colour wash do you use I’m not considering detailed interiors, just some colour that can be seen through top hatches Cheers, Nigel
  16. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/world-us-canada-56792530 Hopefully this one looks recoverable, but I'm sure there will be a fair amount of damage and a lot of time and effort to get her flying again.
  17. So my experiment continues. The first thing to note is that by no means am I a prolific or focussed builder, I get easily distracted so I’m not one to sit for hours at a time working on a model. But this week I have been off work so I have put in three or four one hour long sessions working on the PE on my Tamiya Universal Carrier - first thing to note, I reckon that a determined person could assemble the OOB kit including part preparation but without any painting in under four hours. By contrast I have managed to put the PE on the top deck that runs down the centre of the passenger area. This has involved removing mouldings and fitting 18 parts, 16 PE and 2 plastic. I haven’t been running a timer but I reckon it has taken between 3 and 4 hours. I would say that I have found the experience more stressful than enjoyable. When handling the tiny parts to file off nubs, bend into shape or glue I’m constantly worried that I will break it or drop it onto the carpet. In particular when you are trying to glue one tiny piece onto another tiny piece both of which really need to be held with tweezers and at the same time trying to ensure that the tweezers don’t stick to the PE. The other irritations are the vague locations in the instructions - this part goes approximately here showing a shaded area that is much bigger than the part. And another, when you have to glue a number of tiny parts on the plastic, they float around on the plastic and will move in the slightest breeze, but you have to get these multiple parts all correctly aligned and spaced. And finally, when you look at a walk around of an actual museum piece trying to match up the PE with the real thing - honestly it does look more authentic than the OOB plastic, and many of the parts you can definitely identify but at the same time some bear no relation to what is on the real thing. So this is what took me at least 3 hours As I said, I'm not a fast modeller and get easily distracted so I tend to do 30 minutes here and there. Also I'm pretty new to PE so I may get faster with experience. One thing that is quite depressing - after all that work I look at the two PE frets and it is hard to tell whether they have been started. Cheers, Nigel
  18. My Proops drills arrived today - a little pricey at £7 for 10 - but light years better than the jobber ones from eBay. I’m drilling plastic figures for pinning onto bases. The jobber ones just spin and make an indent at best. The Proops ones cut through the plastic like a hot knife through butter. Cheers, Nigel
  19. I’ve decided to educate myself with PE, like many it has scared me off starting some kits in my stash. So I have picked a kit that I don’t made going bad - it’s a Tamiya Universal Carrier in 1:35 and I have the Eduard PE kit. The PE kit has around 100 parts, the Tamiya kit has around 80 parts to give an idea of scale. I read that many are selective in what PE they use and rarely use all the parts in a PE kit. I don’t have that expertise yet so I have decided to use all the PE to educate myself about what changes are worth the effort and what are not. Spent some time yesterday afternoon and my first observations Grills - they really do improve the appearance and pretty simple and quick to apply - well worth it Unknown lumps - so there are quite a few where the the Tamiya kit has very small rectangular cuboid moulded onto a panel. I have no idea what it is, just some generic detail as far as I am concerned. These must be scraped off and replaced with a u-shaped rectangular cuboid. The time and effort of removing the plastic detail, forming the PE and then trying to glue it neatly in the correct position doesn’t seem worth it. Detailed parts - an example in the gear stick. The Tamiya kit is a simple stick that glues into the floor. It takes less than a minute to remove the part from the sprue, clean it up and glue it in place. The PE replacement is made up of four parts. You can’t quest the detail, the gearstick shows the operating handle and the control wire to it. The gear tick box includes the gate. But I spent an afternoon making this. It sure looks great, but I wonder whether it will be that visible when finished and whether a couple of hours versus one minute was really worth it. Cheers, Nigel
  20. Have you used this, is it really any different to CA, would you recommend it. I have Zap thin, medium and slow already, don’t mind spending the best part of a tenner for some of this but don’t want to find that it is just plain old CA with a fancy name. Cheers, Nigel
  21. Coincidentally, there is an adjacent post by someone asking the same about Milliput. You can try this. Cut of the piece you want to use. Put in the microwave for a few seconds. Don’t blast it or you might turn it to liquid, just do it in steps, maybe start with 5 seconds, see what it is like, try another 5 seconds and so on. If it is very old, you may need to cut out a bit where the blue and yellow join as it has cured a little. Cheers, Nigel
  22. I am doing an experiment, a bit of learning exercise. I have a fairly cheap model that I’m prepared to sacrifice as a test bed - a Tamiya 1:35 Universal Carrier (Bren Gun Carrier if you prefer) and the Eduard photo etch kit. The photo etch is around 100 parts and you can well imagine that as the Universal Carrier is small, even in 1:35, most of the photo etch parts are tiny. So rather than be selective about which PE to use I’ve decided to try and use it all as a learning exercise, to teach me what PE features are worth it and which aren’t. One thing I’m not sure about is when to solder and having decided, how. Firstly let me say that I have an electronics background and I’m pretty proficient with a soldering iron. I have a decent Weller temperature controlled iron with a selection of bits some of which are very small (from an electronic component point of view) but even the smallest is big compared with some of the PE structures. I get that some of the big PE structures (like tool boxes) would be good candidates and would be happy to tackle them. But some of the PE parts fold into tiny box structures - should they be soldered. Basically want to know What is the minimum size for PE box structure soldering What do you use to solder How do you hold the tiny parts in place while soldering Cheers, Nigel
  23. Not tried it, but I too have heard a few seconds in the microwave rejuvenates green stuff so I reckon it would work the same for Milliput. Cheers, Nigel
  24. I admire your commitment to modify the standard RCAF kit, not something I could even dream of doing, mind you when I see a lot of the work done on this site I am simply left in awe. Personally, when I look at the Super Chipmunk, the only reason I can tell it is a Chipmunk is because I am aware of the history of its origin. Without that if you were to show me pictures of an RCAF Chipmunk and a Super Chipmunk I might admit some similarities but I would conclude that they are different aircraft. The Super Chipmunk has a bigger engine (70% more powerful), the cowling is considerably modified (much wider) to accommodate that. The control surfaces are bigger but also the flight surfaces - the wings are clipped for a start. The cockpit is different as (as you pointed out) the canopy. And also (as you point out) the undercarriage is different. Not something I would be able to do with my limited skills and expertise but as I say, I am often left in awe with what some models manage to do on this site. Cheers, Nigel
  25. Yep, that’s a Super Chipmunk. Designed for aerobatics, more powerful engine, bigger control surfaces for aerobatics - look at the rudder for example. The kits you have been looking at are the standard service aircraft used by the RAF and RCAF. The RCAF did have a bubble canopy but it is still pretty much standard, not like the Super Chipmunk that your grandfather flew. There are radio control models, that’s how I was aware of it, but to my knowledge, not a plastic model. Example of one of the RC models https://www.stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pid=A004RF&area=Aircraft Cheers, Nigel
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