Bullardino

Glad to see you're back to your novelist version, Don And nice folk, the one with the kepi and the biplane. Looks an interesting person, I suppose he's very popular among the other at the base

Very, very, very nice

The placards idea is outstanding, I'll use it on my next project for sure Great job on that turret

You're welcome, Don Nice paint job on that folk, the leather jacket definitely looks the real thing. Just one suggestion, the skin tone looks a little too pinky (but maybe it's the camera who's getting it wrong). To tone down the pink dominant you can add a little blue, just a tiny drop.

It's called Kurogane and looks more like Ellery Queen's car than like a jeep Very nice stuff, the dozer's really nicely built.

Read here There is even a 3 views drawing.

Very nice What NM colour did you use?

You can still win the battle in that case:

Is your son going to turn his plane into a Fokker DrI?

Nice diorama, I'd suggest you to paint shadows on the grass and on the bush behind the pilot. About figure painting, in 1/72nd it's not an easy task. The best suggestion is what you have already received. Try to find someone who can teach you, like the ones at a Games Workshop shop or somenthing like that. I could start speaking of zenithal lighing, of shadows and highlights, of washes and glazes, but it is much better to have a real life teacher, as you can learn a lot even on how to look at a miniature

I subscribe this. Isn't an hobby about having fun? And then you will have a perfecly painted mechanic waiting for them, don't you?

The curse of the airacobras hit you too? Well, as far as I remember you've plenty of space on the diorama to change your mind in future, if you want and resume the P-39s

Silvering is one of the commonest plagues thet struck us modelers. I too have a lot of problems with it. I just received my first bottle of future (the original american one, not the UK klear counterpart), and it looks like it can help solving the problem of having an even surface to put decals on. Wether it will work or not you will see when flu and toothache will let me go back to work on my F-100. On a NMF plane decal silvering is way too hard to conceal. What I was meaning with exhaust stains is theat the exhausts look a little "even", but I have to admit I don't know Harvards so well to tell it is normal or not. In my experience exhausts tend to be "burnt" by the gases they expell, so they take an uneven colour depending on the temps they are exposed to, and the final part tend to be stained darkly by the particles. But, again, I don't know if Harvards look that way

I really didn't notice those flaws. But, IMHO, modeling is a form of impressionsm. You can't really replicate all the originals details in perfect scale and without minor flaws. That means only that if my eye is fooled to see it nice, it definitely IS nice. I also tend to tell what I think. I tend to shut up, instead of telling comfortable lies. So if you read that I like what I see, I really like it. You also must remember that digital photography has changed the way we see our models. And I noticed that in most cases it can fool our eyes. Something that looks wonderful in a macro photo can be really awful when seen in real life, as all the details may crop and look confused. Well, regarding your harvard, I really like the greenhouse and the way it looks at a human distance. If we will ever meet, I suppose I won't put my eye at a 5 cm distance from it, and I suppose that from a normal distance it will look ok. Surely the silvering will be noticed far more, and tha'ts a pity as the camouflage work is very nice. Just a question, why didn't you spray exhaust stains? Ah, morning to you too, Don. Hope I have been clear, as my head is banging with headache, flu and, if that all wasn't enough, toothache.

Sorry, all I can say is I got the flu and my head's gone It's difficult to see it in your pictures. Are you sure there are so many flaws? Or is it the usual modelers syndrome that makes us always unhappy whatever the result is?

Nice Buffalo, the canopy's outstanding. Your masking skills are 10 out of 10

I have a nice link for oil weathering, but unfortunately it is in italian. I don't know if it can be fully understood by non italian speaking people, but give a look, it can be of some inspiration: Filters with oil paint

There's no evidence JS3 has ever seen combat in WW2, unlike his predecessor JS2. At least I think this is the reason for the "what if". Ah, obviously it's a fine piece of armor and an outstanding show of weathering skills

All my suggestions are taken from one of the best miniature painters around, whose dvd I use as a source of both information and inspiration. His name is Jeremie Bonamant and he's a real artist. Looking forward to seeing and reading your progresses, it's a real pleasure to follow this thread. I hope to have some time to model too, I really miss modeling, but dog and family come first.

Looks like they are going to release soon their scaled down 109E series, starting from an E-1. They are promoting it intensively on their facebook account and I llok forward to having one. I know, it's a boring and over produced subject, but I loved their 1/32, and I am waiting for this one...

I use washes in small recesses, as inside the cockpit tub, weapons inspection panels and anything like that. On large areas I prefer spraying glazes. Instead of using foam, you can use kitchen roll, it's cheaper and you can chenge it whenever you want. Ah, store your wet palette in the fridge and it will last a long time still wet.

I'm an acrylic addict. As long as I can, I use only acrylic paint. They are easier to thin, easier to spray, easier to clean. I mostly use Tamiya and Gunze colors with my airbrushes. The only laquers I use are Alclad II, as I find acrylic metallic paints are not as good as them. I also use acrylics to paint miniatures, by using the wet palette technique, and they proved very effective and easy to use. In this case I tend to use Andrea and Vallejo Model Colors. I use them also to drybrush details and heavily thinned to give depth with subtle washes.

Oh, I thought you had the freedom to put it as you like it Anyway, it's an interesting kit and I'm following your build from the start

Wow, nice details in such a small scale.

Watch out. You put the knob to lower the visor in the back position (visor in the up position), but the visor is lowered. Nice work, anyway