whitestar

Very Nice Yearbook there Boss Man Lovely Work

Hi fidgeh Google "Spruecutters" Or search for Them on you tube they are From Singapore I think and use Tamiya extra thin (Green Cap) Briefly dry fit as always then Place the two halfs to be glued together leave a slight gap run a thin bead of extra thin and use capillary action down the seam then wait about 10 seconds to let the glue soften the plastic a bit then put together and gently squeeze if you have done it right the excess glue will ooze out a thin bead of plastic and chemically seal the two halves as it works by slightly melting the plastic then you can clean up the joint with some abrasive or get some finishing sanding sponges phil flory and Paul Little cars sell the finishing sponges this works even with a slightly bad join although obviously not a big gap watch the video all will hopefully become clearer Tamiya extra thin is strong stuff do not apply too much as you will possibly melt more than just the seam (I melted some Italeri Tank tracks doing this )

That Looks Nice So far I have Voyager In The Stash you should see the Decal Sheet and the size of the thing thats why its still in its box my Ikea display case isn't big enough Watching with Interest

Bloody Lovely that is I have Eduards ME 262 In 1\44 Masking the Canopy

Looking Good Don One thing though everytime I Look at your Avatar It turns my stomach Who Is It

Its Tiny! Masking the canopy I nearly went blind even with an optivisor , The Model Is the Eduard duo Pack which has 2 1/44 Me 262 Being Eduard The moldings are crisp and have recessed panel lines and all the detail is there except the pit is very basic thank goodness I hope she doesn't sit on her tail I put tiny fishing weights in the fuselage as per Bret Green On Hyperscale your not wrong and the painting schemes look quite Complex but FUN I Think It was under a tenner for the Kit Cheers

I Like that idea managed to remove the overspray with a cocktail stick lightly dipped in thinners and rubbing away the excess Cheers

Hi tank152 I See your point On The Side of the Tamiya Box Art there are faded blobs in A Khaki Colour which I copied and drew onto the mask then cut out the shapes to try and duplicate this Mottling I don't feel Competent enough to try this Freehand yet Thats why Cheers

Hi All Following on from my Last Post I Have been Practising With my Iwata HP-CS And have resprayed the Fiesler V1 Upper RLM Green Also Sorted out the lighting and can now see the wet Spray you have talked about which helps me guage how much paint Iam Applying Also I Purchased an Iwata Preset Handle from Paul at Little Cars and this to me just makes the whole process less tense as you can only throw the lever as far as you have set the Preset Handle which for me brought a somewhat predictable and easily controllable painting experience and also remembered to spray at 15 PSI which was much better I digress again I have got a small amount of Green overspray on the Hell Blau under side how would I remove this without damaging the underlying colour which has a coat of Klear over the top Its Tamiya Acrylics and thinned with X20A Finally I made masks with Canon Photo Paper and just held these on with my finger and lightly sprayed over the top seemed to work well with no Paint ridge and a nice soft edge I think my Faith and confidence is returning and I had FUN My 13 year old daughter had a little go and got the hang of the AB Very quickly

Thats a Really Nice Spit Tamiyas Mk 1 Just falls together doesnt It Lovely Kit Good Job

Well done Max Lovely Job

pte 1643 Thanks for the Help I Love my Eclipse and yours looks Brand New Nice Lines indeed As I have said further up the post Iam all set to try again and will definately be going for it this weekend Cheers Justin

Any time Roys If you fancy the Iwata Eclipse Preset handle Paul at Little Cars has them for £ 27 Not cheap but having practiced with it The travel of the Main trigger is nicely restricted and the brush still looks and feels nice and I can see that for the money it looks like it will Last a long time UPDATE I Can report very Positive results having now tried the Preset Handle It works superbly well cheers Justin

Hi Jetblast and Phil Phil Many Congrats To the AB'S World Champs again at Last and may I say the NZ Did a fine Job Hosting The Tournament Well Done Back On Topic Thanks for the Advice I have been Practicing every day with water sprayed at an old Junker Model Just to get the feel of the trigger and action Its always been Smooth but firm I noticed I have a tendency to whilst pushing down on the trigger and pulling back after a few goes to lift up and just be blowing air I got round this by really being aware of doing this and trying to keep the AB Consistently Painting could be a bit of weakness in that finger I don't really know I will have a play around with the lighting and see what I can do Also the day in question I think the paint was too thin or too high Pressure and what I should have done was realise this was not going to go well and walk away calm down and try again trouble is the damage was done by then and I was annoyed with myself another thing I had not modelled at all for one reason or another for 3 months and when i started this session My AB Did not Perform as expected usually with the Eclipse their is no dramas and its very Predictable but I have worked out that the AB Is fine my Paint mix was too thin and I must have pulled back too far on the trigger with too much Pressure I have masked up again and am ready to try again have got the preset handle for the eclipse to hopefully nullify my ham fistedness or at least help a bit Sorry for the rambling once i start i find it hard to stop maybe i need therapy Cheers All Justin

Hi Roys I can help you here as I had a Triple action handle for my HP C-S If the make you are interested Is Made by a guy called Gentry Riley (well known in USA Airbrushing circles) Then Personally I wouldn't bother For me it messed up the Look Balance and Feel of the Eclipse and I had Problems with what I can only describe as Light Rust/ Corrosion On The Spring and inside the barrel of the Triple action Handle I have Just got the Iwata Preset Handle and the quality Is up to the usual Iwata Standard and does not seem to affect the brushed performance Bit Pricey as all Iwata Parts are Also The Crown Cap will protect your needle when you get close however If you are careful you can just remove the needle cap This is only my experience of the Triple action handle Others may differ HTH Justin

Ah Mr Denstore Just the Job Thanks

Hi Folks I want to decant some hairspray To use in my Iwata HP-CS when I Have finished spraying the hairspray what Solvent will Remove the hairspray so none is left to dry inside my AB Cheers All Justin

Hi Greg Half of it is the tensing up and blind panic of something going wrong and not being able to see where the paint is hitting the model very well/coverage its almost like spraying blind and hoping for the best when you draw paint etc you can see what you are doing or at least where you have applied your Paint / ink / Pencil etc I have 2 angled desk lamps shining directly on top and to the side of the model mounted on a tamiya spray master stand and portable spray booth if I angled them differently maybe i could see the work better but I have no idea how else to position the lighting Also there is no margin for error when mottling and that is a steep learning curve really appreciate all your advice Cheers Justin

I'm certainly no expert but I have an Eclipse myself, you should be able to get reasonable results on 48 scale when attempting freehand mottling. Hi There pte1643 Any tips specific to the eclipse for mottling If I may... It sounds like you just need a bit of practise. You are quite correct there and some How are you operating the trigger? Index Finger TIP? Personally, I find it easier to "Wrap" my index finger over the top of the brush and use the area of the first Knuckle, using the tip of my finger as a "steady" on the body of the brush. Index finger I like the idea of your method for triggering I will give this a go the pull back whilst smooth with no drag has resistance(quite strong Spring) would unscrewing the bit that goes into the body of the brush not the handle help Its not clear how much this has to be screwed in/out The other thing I do a fair amount of is.. Practise "drawing" sunglasses/beards etc on the pictures in there. Good Idea Another option, although it costs a few pounds, is get hold of a pre-set body (you can get them as an option for the Eclipse) and use the screw to limit the amount of "backwards" movement on the trigger. This item I think will help me a lot have thought about this and anything that stops my ham fistedness has to be a good thing Thanks

Thanks for the reply Pilgrim I was hoping for more replies 50 views and 1 reply bit dissapointing just have to soldier on and work thru this myself Cheers Justin

Hi All Iam Starting to lose a bit of confidence and am wondering if any Iwata Experts can help me Now to start off Iam 100 percent certain its all me and not the AB (Bad workman blames tools etc) I have read elsewhere a method of spraying thru card masks to achieve Mottling Patterns using thin card I decided to use Canon Photographic paper as this seemed to be of a good thickness and cut the masks out with a new swann morton no 11 blade after photocopying and reducing the plans of the mottling to 1:48 the cutting of the masks went fine and I applied the masks to the V1 (DOODLEBUG) Wanting to achieve a rather faint effect of Tamiya Khaki Over RLM Dark Green as this to me looked more interesting The masks were attaced lightly with small blobs of blue tak and lifted slightly off of the models surface I set the psi at about 15 And thinned the paint more than usual I thought Low air pressure thin paint I wanted to spray lightly for about 1 second per mottle in a slightly circular movement first problem I can never really see the paint hitting the model until quite often there is too much Paint as i Have pulled back the trigger too far resulting in this instance of a slight run under the masking and then a noticeable spider paint job ruined so I used this to practice I can hold the trigger down no problem its the second bit I struggle with the paint will flow but when I want to get really close only seems to be continuous when I remove the needle cap I think I must be inadvertantly releasing the triggers downward travel and just pulling back or half releasing Its hard to describe probably get a bit panicky and tensing up too much when I peeked under the masks with practice and strangely thickening the paint and reducing the air pressure to 10 psi I had more control the original thin mixture was much harder to control and shot out Ideally I would prefer to see the Paint hitting the model and gain more control I have checked the nozzle and needle and both are fine also how do you freehand without overspray I watched a video where a guy just freehanded the camo on a panther with practically no overspray am I expecting too much out of the eclipse HP - CS Forgot to say I have a Little Cars Little Jet Compressor built by Sparmax who make all Iwata Compressors Any Ideas to help me regain some confidence Cheers Sorry for the rambling Post Justin

Oh! Very Funny Julien at least you didn't mention fabregas

Hi Rob Which ATC Were you with I was With 14F At RAF Northolt and Also took the controls of a Chipmunk Happy Days

Lovely Chaffee Mate Spot on Weathering Well Done

Just Seen This I will try and help, I had a Sticky trigger and having looked at the Online Iwata manual for the Eclipse I managed to work out how to disassemble the air Valve disconnect the air from the AB now depress the trigger and see at the bottom the metal Pin go up and down as you depress the trigger If you look you will see it sits inside a brass coloured Cap and this cap has a narrow slot running accross this find something a small flat head screwdriver is good and carefully unscrew this Cap anti clockwise when undone the spring and air valve guide will fall out , or be loose and can be pushed uot gently from above now look inside the empty valve and the O ring is at the top if you are lucky it will be on the top of the the air valve if not get a wooden cocktail stick and push the O ring down the empty chamber have a good look at the air valve and if its like mine you will find dried Paint clean thouroughly and relube only with Iwatas own superlube Also the air valve sits inside a smooth barrel which you can remove from the top by pushing down with the cocktail stick from above this is not really nescessary as this barrel does not come into contact with anything other than the body of the Air valve housing Be very gentle with the O ring at the top mine was covered in blue paint and difficult to see It seems to be of a rubber like material In my heavy handedness I was probably a little rough overall and could have easily damaged the O ring might be an idea to get a spare just in case This is Purely my attempt and solution for the sticking trigger please use at your own risk Finally when cleaning try to avoid getting anything near the trigger except Iwata superlube as over zealous cleaning can lead to fluids seeping down the trigger and into the air valve leading to more Problems Tilt the AB Down so that all fluid flows away from the trigger HTH