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Dave Hill

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About Dave Hill

  • Birthday 10/27/1966

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    Michigan, USA

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  1. Had a wonderful time!!!!!!!!...Thank's Mish! Dave
  2. Crisp...clean...very nice weathering...Great job!!!!!!!!!!!! Dave
  3. Thanks guys!...you really made this GB fun!!! Dave
  4. Hi Miki, What kind of flat coat did you use on the Gloss Black parts they really turned out nice!...BTW...your off to a great start! Dave
  5. Hi Howard, I do the same, except in my case (most recently my P-47 build) I found that Micro-Sol (red bottle) crazed the Alclad if left in a puddle...I position the decal then apply the Sol with a small brush to the decal ONLY being careful to keep the liquid off the painted surface, works great! Dave
  6. Hi all, Well, sadly I come to the end of this project ...sad because this kit was such a pleasure to build...Thanks for all the comments and to everyone who just stopped by to look!...finishing the model was pretty much strait forward by adding the under wing stores and all the little bits and pieces. I drilled out the exhaust waste gate and positioned the doors open, made the gun blast tubes from brass tubing and painted them with the Alclad, added the landing light lens and made "lenses" for the triple formation lights with a drop of clear epoxy, added the "pin" for the ring gunsight from stretched sprue, and finaly I added the tailwheel and main gear door actuators from fine wire. Based in Corsica and Italy weathering was limited to just a light wash to accent details and the panel lines...grey/white pastel chalk was applied for a dusty look, exhaust staining is dull clearcoat tinted a dirty soot color and applied by airbrush, and the anti-glare panel was heavily faded with dull clearcoat tinted with lightened OD and gray enamel paint. More pics will be added to the gallery. Dave
  7. All comments are welcome, hope you like! Dave
  8. This weekend's progress turned into a two step forward one step back...I got the model all decaled up so it was time to start work on the under wing stores so the decals will be completely dry for the wash and weathering. First was the bazooka rocket launchers...I cleaned up the seams and drilled out the bores at both ends...next came the 75gal. belly tank and bombs...the tank was assembled and fuel lines made from plastic rod and fine wire then painted Alclad Aluminum. The bombs were assembled, painted and p/e fuse propeller and arming wire added. Now the rocket launchers...Ummmm...I can't find them now!...they just disappeared off the bench!...I wanted my Jug to be armed to the teeth so I used a few pics of completed models and wartime photos to make new parts using plastic tubing and 0.3mm plastic sheet...I don't know if I got the length right but they look okay to me. The droptank weathered and plumbing added. Hopefully my next update will be the finished model! Dave
  9. They are True Details...the Ultracast ones were "out of stock". Dave
  10. After letting the Alclad dry for a few days I masked the model and painted the anti-glare panel and cowl band. While the Alclad cured I went to work on the landing gear which is nicely molded but my OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Detailing) was activated and my eye soon saw room for improvement. I removed the molded-on oleo compression linkage and replaced it with 0.5mm plastic rod. Next I made linkage for the upper gear doors from 0.3mm plastic rod, added p/e from the Eduard Zoom set, and finally brake lines made with wire from trash bag twist ties. Next I painted the gear legs Alclad Aluminum and added the decals, then applied a dirty black wash, after the wash dried I added tiny strips of foil for the oleos and glued on the brake lines. With everything painted I was about to assemble the landing gear when I decided I didn't like the kit's wheels, so after a quick order to Sprue Bros. for resin replacements the gear looks much better and I feel the aftermarket parts were worth it. The landing gear after final assembly Dave
  11. Hi Karl, Found this website that has plans/drawings for download...the text is in Russian but they may come in handy for the rescribe work. http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/typhoon.html http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/typhoon-2.html http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/hawkertyphoonsol.html Dave
  12. Hi all, Saturday's progress has "Ponnie" in her natural metal skin...the wing and tail stripes are painted, done with a number of masking steps but the result is worth it compared to a decal. I know Alclad is pretty durable but I want to play it safe and wait a couple days before masking the anti-glare panel and cowling band. Dave
  13. The wheel used for most rivet lines is the 0.75mm (the wheel in the picture mounted on the knife adapter)...IIRC the set shown is for 1/48. I use available drawings and measure the placement with calipers...then I use Dymo tape for strait runs and thin strips of vinyl tape for compound curves as guides but, occasionally you will have to free hand tight spaces...sometimes a series of rivet lines are equally spaced so a template made from the thicker Dymo tape makes repeated and equally spaced lines easy. HTH!!! Dave
  14. I use RB producton's Rivet-R Mini...I love it!!!!!! http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=304 Dave
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