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Albeback52

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About Albeback52

  • Birthday 12/04/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edinburgh (Scotland - NOT Australia!!)
  • Interests
    Decent whisky, Anything by Airfix

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  1. I feel your pain!! Been there! Seen it, done it, bought the t-shirt! 👍😂 (and the decals of course!) Allan Ps - still prefer a Vulcan B1/B1A though! 😉
  2. Very difficult to spot unless you are deliberately looking for it and, look very closely. Personally, don't think such a minor issue is worth bothering about. However, that's just me.😉 Allan
  3. Not this guy anyway! 😂. Crew figures, if provided, are first into the bin! Allan
  4. To be honest,, I don't see why they should need to.Unless of course the mere sight of the Luftwaffe insignia and/or any Swastikas upsets the model police? I would think, in any case that there might be some explanatory information with the instructions stating that it was a proposed design that never took off (no pun intended). Allan
  5. While in no way condoning or condemning the conduct of the pilots in this incident, its at least a far cry from the Cold War days when an interception was occasionally performed with cannons shells or missiles. To the obvious and tragic detriment of the aircraft on the receiving end. Allan
  6. That's a good point Lauren. Never thought of it that way. 👍 However, I STILL hate tiny p/e parts! 😉😂 Allan
  7. Fair point but, I'd prefer if they were moulded in place. I could live with that. I just find that p/e parts are far more trouble than they are worth. Especially the very small ones. If I do ever buy this kit and, it ends up with a "bare" fin, I can live with it 😉😂. For what it's worth Tony, I have a tendency to dump very small plastic parts as well, especially if they are going to be tucked away unseen! Probably an age thing! 😊 Allan
  8. Fair comment 😊. I don't use items like Kristal Klear or, any other PVA type glue to attach canopies largely because they don't give a strong joint. Liquid Poly is fine. I do the same and, then use PVA glue applied with a fine brush to take care of any gaps. Regarding your Twin Otter, have you tried using masking fluid like Humbrol Maskol? If you haven't, it's water soluble and can be brushed on. I have a couple of Revell Twin Otter kits myself but, I'd probably use Kristal Klear (before building the kit) to see if it's feasible to use that to make the cabin windows. That way, I can leave the glazing until the model is complete. If that fails, I'd use Maskol but, apply it to the clear parts before I fit them in place. It sets like thin rubber, is easily trimmed and, just as easily removed when painting is finished.Might solve your problem! 😊 Allan
  9. Personally, I prefer simple one piece canopies. Generally, I cement the fixed part of any cockpit canopy in place, sort out any issues with the joint and then mask it. I do the same for canopies like the one shown - especially WWII types with large , fixed canopies. Allan
  10. I can live without the p/e parts. Even if they had been included, I would have binned them immediately! Not terribly fond of p/e parts! 😉😂 Allan
  11. Oh, such delicious irony. Is this the same Boring that whines continually about "unfair" government funding for Airbus? Actually, I'd have thought that anything Trump was enthusiastic about would be something to avoid? Allan
  12. I'd forgotten the Bf-110! Need to be asking my partner nicely if she can add it to the Crimbo shopping list! 😂 I'd have preferred the Mirage IIIC over the E but, at that price, who's bothered! I may be forced to buy another! Allan
  13. Still prefer the "sand and stone" RAF scheme though so, it's "none of the above" out of the kit options!! 😉🤣 Allan.
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