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Lothian man

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  1. Lothian man

    AMT / ERTL Caterpillar D8H

    I used to have one of the same boxing bought about 1986 from the recesses of a south Bristol hardware and hobby shop! I built it a few years later and don't remember any problems with the basic build. one word of warning: the 'transfers', if like mine, are peel-off self-adhesive stickers! No idea what state yours are in, but I don't think a bath of water would do them any good ... PS. Have a close look at the 'decals' - if they are peel-off, there should be a plastic film over the whole sheet with the die-cut demarcations around each item clearly visible, with a margin of a millimetre or two.
  2. Lothian man

    Soviet BT-2 Light tank. 1:35

    Many thanks for that. I've acquired my own one now. As the very early type sans machine gun it's of historical importance as the start of the BT/T-34 story! From surplus parts on the sprues it's obvious HB are intending to do the other variants mentioned, plus the 75mm armed one with a very different turret. But these can't be made straight from this kit as the turret moulding provided is only for the earliest type. I wonder if they will also do BT-5s? It will need new road wheels and (probably) hull sides and engine deck details for a start. But there are BT-5 style exhausts on the sprue, and of course the existing turrets from the T-26 kits should be useable. However it would take a lot more work whether by HB or the conversion minded modeller to do a Christie tank - it had a pointed hull nose for a start. I'm partway through mine and although it doesn't quite achieve the quality of a Tamiya BT-7 (which is very good indeed) it is not far off. Not a lot of hiccups noted so far. It's not easy finding shots of this very early type, however. 1. Check fit the hull top/lower hull, especially at the rear and around the turret - there is some flash getting in the way, I think. I had to clean up and fit again till it was OK. 2. You could leave the front mudguards off for a different look. Quite common with BT-2s. 3. There are slabby triangular fillets which support the transverse tube bearing the front idlers. Each is moulded integrally with the hull and HB didn't use slide moulding for this detail area or the driver's hood. Each fillet may need rivets added on the top face in two rows parallel to the outer and inner edges. The outer edge may be covered anyway if you use the front mudguards, I'm not sure. (it's just possible some examples were constructed by welding - it's hard to tell from photos.) 4. The rectangular covers for the front side air intakes (?) on the hull top are a bit thick and could do with a cleanup to thin down the edges a little. The detailing on the hull top below the covers doesn't show the vents and I wonder if it is based on a misreading of drawings - but the area is almost completely covered by the covers and this probably does not matter. Some plan view drawings show that the front inner corner of each rectangular cover, next the turret, is cut off at an angle, but photos confirm that the kit shape is OK for at least some tanks. 5. The two flaps for the central rear air outlet (?) are rather thick and if you have them even a little open they could do with a cleanup and a thin down of the visible sides and long edge - no need to bother with the rest as they are hidden. They will need to be almost shut as the engine compartment is completely empty - you will need to paint this a dark colour before assembly or add a mockup engine and radiators. 6. There is a little round plate inset flush into the upper front decking of the kit turret. Photos seem to show this circular plate should be raised slightly. Others seem to show it missing - but whether that is a trick of the light or just poor photo quality I am not sure. 7. The round air intake cover (?) on the engine deck hatch doesn't match my photos, but it would usually be hiden behind the raised air intake covers, so I may have missed it. However, a commoner design (perhaps a refit) on BT-2s even of this early type is a couple of thick concentric discs one above the other, the upper one wider than the lower, which is clearly (if partly) visible in side view. 8. The transfers are modern typeface to my eyes and are wrong anyway when compared with the one photo of a BT-2 of the relevant type which bears a number 8, but this is easily enough handpainted and most were unmarked anyway. Steve Zaloga's New Vanguard on the BT tanks is a useful reference.
  3. Lothian man

    Dry Transfers

    Indeed; but that's the sender. The cost of p and p is usually added onto that figure by HMRC when it arrives in the reception centre (with some exceptions). If it's just a matter of VAT, then "The value of the goods for import VAT is based on the: basic value of goods, plus postage, packing and insurance, plus any import (Customs or Excise) duties charged" https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/notice-143-a-guide-for-international-post-users/notice-143-a-guide-for-international-post-users#postal-packages-imported-arriving-from-countries-outside-the-eu
  4. Lothian man

    Dry Transfers

    Of course, the price for VAT purposes includes post and packing, so you have to allow for that. But even when I've ordered consignments from Archer over the trigger value, my experience over quite a few years now is that Archer consignments direct have never attracted the attention of customs and therefore missed both VAT and the Post Office levy. This is presumably because they fit in an envelope and look like printed matter (which they are). Touch wood this will continue. In contrast, every other imported item I have ordered from anyone, apart from a few very small packets, has been stung since Customs tightened up about a decade ago. I have a lovely wooden-handled burnishing tool with a rounded polythene (?) end that I got from the local specialist art shop, but we're lucky in having a major school of art in the nearby city and therefore at least one really good artists' materials place.
  5. Lothian man

    Models of Late Victorian/Edwardian things?

    Also just remembered something else of possible relevance - Paramount did a series of 1/30 (?) kits of horse drawn stuff - mail coach, HM's state coach, farm waggon etc.. I still have them (!) from about 1968. Here's an example https://www.scalemates.com/kits/204206-paramount-1-broad-wheeled-sussex-waggon The mail coach is definitely out of your period but the farm cart is almost timeless ...
  6. Lothian man

    Models of Late Victorian/Edwardian things?

    There's also the Pit-Road 1/35 and 1/72 kits of the Japanese 28cm coastal defence howitzers as used in the Russo-Japanese War 1905 or so, but looking decidedly older, very late C19 in feel. They are sporadically issued by Pit-Road with and without figures (at least in 1/35). I have the 1/35 kit - a great favourite in the display cabinet. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1012538-pit-road-g-44-28cm-howitzer Edit: also issued with and without etched metal (which may be available separately), at least the 1/35 kit.
  7. Lothian man

    1/35th British A41 Centurion Prototype 1945

    I've got this kit and those comments are most interesting, thank you. For all I know it is 100% correct for the anime series, but for the British Army 1945 on it's not quite right for either of the two main options, both with Besa secondary armament (the A41 with Polsten cannon option is not provided). The kit tracks look like normal Centurion tracks. But there are no smoke dischargers. It would seem that one can make (a) A41 (prototype series) and ignore the track (or wait for someone to issue it) (unless one can find a photo of a prototype with replacement tracks) (b) A41* = Mark 1 production proper, which so far as I can see needs turret smoke dischargers robbed from another kit, most obviously the original AFV Club Centurion kit in boxings where they are not used, e.g. the Australian vehicles in Viet Nam or some Israeli machines. In both cases the rear hull needs to be dealt with. There is what purports to be a rear upper hull louvre grill to A41 standard on the sprues but it is not mentioned in the instructions! Presumably this will still be too narrow from front to rear. However, the rear rubber bump strip may or may not be present - which may make it easier to do a visually acceptable fudge (not sure of this). The rear engine deck does have the strengthening ribs. And there are no British (or other) army markings other than the anime series. We badly need a decal supplier to make 01AB23 style number and letter sheets.
  8. Lothian man

    T-54-1 Medium Tank 1:35

    Whoops! Stupid me. Yes, I meant the Takom kits. Sorry! And many thanks for pointing it out.
  9. Lothian man

    T-54-1 Medium Tank 1:35

    It is indeed a lovely model. I've just bought the T-54-2 and it's the next stage along, with flat welded (not stamped) fuel tanks on the fenders. One tip - the builder will end up with a duplicate set of hubcaps for the 5 x 2 roadwheel pairs. Depending on which you use and on the individual vehicles in photos, this can be very useful for completing the Meng T-54B kit with the spider wheels. So far as I can see the Meng T-54B kit only provides 8 hub caps of the right size for the 10 road wheel pairs! The other two hub caps are for the enlarged hub front pair as seen (usually) in the T-55, the kit being based on T-55 parts. (Rather surprisingly, the Meng Type 69 kit (Chinese T-54) doesn't have this problem, but it remains to be seen whether Meng use those moulds for the T-54 as well in the future.) You still have the same problem if making the Meng kit with the starfish wheels, as the T-54-1 hubs won't do, but if you have done one with spider wheels as above you will have some spares - or you could swap wheels with the Tamiya kit of the T-55 which has a T-54 style set of 10 roadwheel hubs all the same size. I have not checked the physical practicalities of the latter suggestion, though. Some interesting photos here, e.g. of T-54-1 turrets in fixed emplacements, https://thesovietarmourblog.blogspot.co.uk/2017/01/t-54.html
  10. Mind, it does seem to be climbing to get over the Black and/or Red Cuillin - just over 3k feet.
  11. Ah - I had been wondering about Plockton (further north on the other side of Skye) but you have it right. Thank you. The houses and roads in the foreground match Carbost perfectly and I didn't bother looking further. Those must be the hills of Harris, on the Long Isle, in the distance.
  12. Lothian man

    Ferguson TE20 FF30 Tractor - 1:24 Heller

    I had difficulty with the front axle as the stub units (which could be bolted on in a variety of in/out locations) seem to be mounted at least one notch or hole too far in, as shown in the instructions and implied by the nut and bolt locations, and foul the central pivot. I've had to disassemble mine and redo it with the bolt heads cut off and relocated to match front and back. (This may not mean much but will be very obvious when one looks at the kit!)
  13. Lothian man

    Soviet ZSU-57-2 SPAAG - Takom 1:35

    Julien, this is where I got my stuff (at a show the other day): no connection, just satisfied customer! http://www.manmodels.co.uk/magic-models-turned-brass-barrells-70-c.asp I see they have AP as well as HE.
  14. Lothian man

    Soviet ZSU-57-2 SPAAG - Takom 1:35

    Many thanks! Two points of interest perhaps - 1. Magic Models do turned gun barrels and ammunition rounds (unfired and fired) for the ZPU-57-2. It's beyond reasonable cost for me to replace the full stowage, but I have bought a pack of fired cartridge cases to chuck into the empty cartridge basket. 2. The cartridge cases seem to vary in colour - the Finnish museum example at Parola has brass cartridge cases but others on film or photo have an aluminium or steel plated appearance - quite greasy or grimy as well.
  15. Lothian man

    Russian Light AA Gun Set 1:35

    Two further points on the ZPU-4: 1. the instructions carefully tell you how to paint the little semicircular transverse flanges on the four cannon barrels, not far from the muzzle. They are needed for the ZPU-2, but they get in the way of fitting the cannon to the quad mounting and - so far as I can see on the real thing - shouldn't be there at all!! They need to be pared off carefully. 2. No very positive fit of the gun assemblies to the ZPU-4 main body mounts. I started by fixing the gun forward mountings, leaving the guns themselves loose within each loop. I then did my best by eye on the two lower mounts as it seemed easiest to fit those first. Now to try the upper ones ...