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Everything posted by RZP

  1. There’s always hope. ModelMonkey has released a number of beautiful resin sets to upgrade and correct the Airfix 1/24 scale Mustang over the last couple of years. He has started to do Spitfire parts, hopefully he could be convinced to do more. Richard
  2. Thank you! The shapes and dimensions are all there, just needs four years of work, lol. I've loved every minute, almost. And I agree with you on the Maple Leaf roundels, especially in the case of the Mustangs.The RCAF Auxiliary Squadron markings were among the most attractive anywhere. Richard
  3. I've just sat with my morning coffee and gone through this brilliant build! I love these old 1/24 scale Airfix kits, but they are a bit of a double-edged sword. I've been working on their Mustang. They will absorb as much effort as you are willing to put in, but at the same time they really demand all that work to bring them to an acceptable standard. Our expectations have changed a lot in 50 odd years. That being said, their shapes and dimensions are accurate for the most part. I just love the care you've taken and the research you've done to get the details right, and the creativ
  4. Wow! Just came across this thread, and it's a masterclass in improving and correcting an old kit. OK...maybe a masterclass in stubbornness too. I love your solution for the horizontal stabilizers. I just filled your profile with likes. You've combined using aftermarket improvements (that are sometimes not such a good fit either) and good old-fashioned modelling techniques. What you've done is brilliant, and should also help others wanting to build the kit to a better standard. I'm one of them, I have the Matchbox kit and plan to convert it to a Seafire 47. This will be a great he
  5. Thanks again John. Yes, it'll need some restrained weathering and dirt, but not much. 424 Squadron kept their mounts very clean, as did most of the RCAF Auxiliary Squadrons. Although I’m sure in this photo she was cleaned up for what looks like an air show or Air Force Day. The sharp-eyed ones will notice that the prop on this is the original cuffed Hamilton Standard. The photo in my original post shows it later on, with a cuffless HS prop, and the yellow/black Tiger stripes applied to the spinner. Not so obvious is the interior green on the inner clamshell landing gear doors. The
  6. Thank you Jeff! I am pleased. Natural metal finishes, especially on something this size, are intimidating. Alclad is amazing stuff, but I'd like to try some of the acrylic metal finishes on the market. Richard
  7. Thanks! There are all the small fiddly bits to attach yet and more decals, but it's getting close. The main obstacle right now is the sliding part of the canopy, it's been fighting me. Thank you! It just seemed like a safer way to go until I was more comfortable with an airbrush, and Alclad...or whatever metal finish I try next.
  8. A couple more views. The bomb carriers and rocket stubs have now been added to the underside. And just a view from behind. The camera on my phone tends to act like a wide angle lens, and makes the dihedral look flatter than it is. Believe me, I spent a lot of time trying to make sure it was right.
  9. And this is where I am right now. With winter approaching and possible COVID restrictions coming, I'll finally be able to sit and finish this. I read all kinds of advice on sealing or not sealing Alclad before applying decals. There were good arguments for both. I was hoping to protect the finish and blend things in. In the end I did airbrush a thin coat of Future mixed with Liquitex levelling fluid, 99% alcohol and a drop of Vallejo Smoke. It didn't really alter the metal look of Alclad, which was what some modellers warned about. It did slightly knock down the shine a bit, and th
  10. Thank you Chris for the comments. I can tell you that I practiced for hours with the airbrush before I pointed it at the model. It is now another tool. To be honest, I still think that achieving a smooth and even finish with brush painting is an art, and airbrushing is cheating. Richard
  11. Once the paint had cured hard, I was anxious to get some decals on. I just wanted to see some colour...and convince myself that I was making progress. The markings proved to be a bit of a problem, as the decals in the Airfix boxing I used did have RCAF roundels, but the printing left me cold. Although they were accurate, the reds and blues were a microscopic dot matrix, not solid colour. Once I saw that, I couldn't unsee it. Fortunately I found a set of very old CanForce decals with a selection of roundel sizes, and the proper style of maple leaf. The colours were a bit dark, but I was happy t
  12. Thanks! If I remember correctly, the technique was originally used with AK Extreme in the article I read...I just took the leap and hoped it would work for Alclad. Thank you! Up until this model I had been a brush painter only, but the size of this thing made me finally break out the airbrush I bought years ago. I practiced for hours just using old broken models and parts from the spares box before I tackled anything on this Mustang. So far no disasters, and I am really pleased with the thin smooth finish. I don't know what I was afraid of. But you have to use the skills
  13. And this was the result. The effect was subtle, but enough of a difference to be effective. I think next time I'll try different shades of Alclad, now that I am no longer a lacquer virgin. I think varying the tones and colour of metal shades might be a bit more realistic. All that being said, I am really happy with Alclad.
  14. This was the first time I used Alclad for a natural metal finish, and to be honest, the first time I used an airbrush. After reading as much information as I could on prep, spraying and masking Alclad...I was terrified. In the end, with care, it proved extremely easy to use and sprayed beautifully...but man did it smell!! And the clean up was a bit of a pain. I saw how some modellers used different shades of Alclad and careful masking to represent the different panels and types of metal on the aircraft. Being so new at this, I thought that might be pushing it. I found another met
  15. Yes, Nexus Games. They are pretty much it for Kingston hobby supplies, and they do the trick in a pinch. It's also just down the block from Novel Idea Books which carries Osprey titles and a pretty decent military history section.
  16. One last post for today. After sanding and polishing all the surfaces it was time to paint. The wings were done first with a coat of Tamiya grey primer straight from the can. It went down perfect and smooth. Next it was Tamiya Silver Leaf decanted from the can and airbrushed on. It looked close to the silver/grey painted wing finish as applied to Mustang wings. A circle was masked on each wing to provide the background for the 24" RCAF roundels, which also had a 1 1/2" silver surround...for a total diameter of 27". When that had cured dry and rock hard after a couple days, I sprayed Model Mast
  17. Thanks again! Archer now has 1/24 scale sets of rivets, Dzus fasteners, small panels etc. They weren't available yet when I started, so I used the 1/32 versions...they look close enough for me. Richard
  18. After I was satisfied with how the fuselage looked, I sprayed a coat of gloss black on the fuselage. It acted as a primer to cover up some scratches, but I also intended to carefully sand back the rivet detail on the kit. Since the plastic was light grey, I hoped that the rivets would show through as I sanded them back to reduce how prominent they were. Airfix kindly tried to make the riveting flat-headed rather than rounded, but it was a bit too much. I didn't want to lose it completely, just knock it back a bit. The final step before declaring the fuselage ready for primer coats
  19. Thank you so much Chris! Very much appreciated coming from you. Richard
  20. Once I was satisfied with the finish, I rescribed all the lost detail and added rivets and Dzus fasteners from Archer details. They are basically resin details on decal paper, very easy to use and a tremendous help to restore or add detail. Of course, all of this is now unnecessary because of the beautiful one-piece cowling top part available from ModelMonkey. The fit of all the parts forward of the wing are really dodgy, and require a lot of putty, plastic strips and card. Not difficult, but a lot of time and work, and swearing. The fit forward of the underside of the wing
  21. After a couple of night's work, it started to look more refined. I also filled and reduced the "pinch" behind the carb intake under the prop. As it comes in the kit the "pinch" is too pronounced, and has a nasty fit problem caused by the way the chin intake part and the cowling panels come together.
  22. Once all the cockpit, radios and other interior parts were shoehorned in, the fuselage was carefully closed up and glued. The nose required some serious attention for a number of shape and detail problems. The most visible was the shape of the top of the engine cowlings. The kit cross-section was too round, and the top of the nose needed to be flatter and bulked out with shoulders so that the cowlings would look like there was a Merlin in there. I built up the shape with laminations of plastic card, and filled with Milliput and Tamiya fine putty. It took several sandings, refilling with putty,
  23. Hope life is good in Sudbury! Yes, with Leading Edge closed it makes finding even basic supplies harder. There’s a war gaming store here that carries the full Vallejo paint line, and some model construction tools and glues, etc. Still though, Leading Edge is badly missed. The closest stores are now Ottawa and Toronto...and I’m not thrilled travelling to those COVID hotspots right now. My bank account is happier though.
  24. There have been many theories around what causes that Mustang whistle at speed. The supercharger, the main intake, the gun barrels/fairings or the square openings for the shell casing ejection chutes have all been put forward as culprits. All I know is that it sounds amazing! The louvred panels behind the wing root were introduced post-war in the States, and you can see them on USAF/ANG F-51Ds in Korea and in the States, and on some operated by foreign air forces. A number of RCAF Mustangs also had them, but not all. I haven't been able to find out where and when they were introduc
  25. On some post-war Mustangs, louvres were added to the sides of the radiator area to improve airflow and cooling. It was not a universal modification, and I have found at least four different patterns. Working from photos of RCAF 9253, I cut the four slots into the side of the fuselage with a scriber and Olfa knife, and then created the louvres with plastic strip. Richard
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