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RZP

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About RZP

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 02/03/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kingston, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Polish Air Force, RCAF and Polish Mustangs, FAA

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  1. I've just sat with my morning coffee and gone through this brilliant build! I love these old 1/24 scale Airfix kits, but they are a bit of a double-edged sword. I've been working on their Mustang. They will absorb as much effort as you are willing to put in, but at the same time they really demand all that work to bring them to an acceptable standard. Our expectations have changed a lot in 50 odd years. That being said, their shapes and dimensions are accurate for the most part. I just love the care you've taken and the research you've done to get the details right, and the creativ
  2. Wow! Just came across this thread, and it's a masterclass in improving and correcting an old kit. OK...maybe a masterclass in stubbornness too. I love your solution for the horizontal stabilizers. I just filled your profile with likes. You've combined using aftermarket improvements (that are sometimes not such a good fit either) and good old-fashioned modelling techniques. What you've done is brilliant, and should also help others wanting to build the kit to a better standard. I'm one of them, I have the Matchbox kit and plan to convert it to a Seafire 47. This will be a great he
  3. Thanks again John. Yes, it'll need some restrained weathering and dirt, but not much. 424 Squadron kept their mounts very clean, as did most of the RCAF Auxiliary Squadrons. Although I’m sure in this photo she was cleaned up for what looks like an air show or Air Force Day. The sharp-eyed ones will notice that the prop on this is the original cuffed Hamilton Standard. The photo in my original post shows it later on, with a cuffless HS prop, and the yellow/black Tiger stripes applied to the spinner. Not so obvious is the interior green on the inner clamshell landing gear doors. The
  4. Thank you Jeff! I am pleased. Natural metal finishes, especially on something this size, are intimidating. Alclad is amazing stuff, but I'd like to try some of the acrylic metal finishes on the market. Richard
  5. Thanks! There are all the small fiddly bits to attach yet and more decals, but it's getting close. The main obstacle right now is the sliding part of the canopy, it's been fighting me. Thank you! It just seemed like a safer way to go until I was more comfortable with an airbrush, and Alclad...or whatever metal finish I try next.
  6. A couple more views. The bomb carriers and rocket stubs have now been added to the underside. And just a view from behind. The camera on my phone tends to act like a wide angle lens, and makes the dihedral look flatter than it is. Believe me, I spent a lot of time trying to make sure it was right.
  7. And this is where I am right now. With winter approaching and possible COVID restrictions coming, I'll finally be able to sit and finish this. I read all kinds of advice on sealing or not sealing Alclad before applying decals. There were good arguments for both. I was hoping to protect the finish and blend things in. In the end I did airbrush a thin coat of Future mixed with Liquitex levelling fluid, 99% alcohol and a drop of Vallejo Smoke. It didn't really alter the metal look of Alclad, which was what some modellers warned about. It did slightly knock down the shine a bit, and th
  8. Thank you Chris for the comments. I can tell you that I practiced for hours with the airbrush before I pointed it at the model. It is now another tool. To be honest, I still think that achieving a smooth and even finish with brush painting is an art, and airbrushing is cheating. Richard
  9. Once the paint had cured hard, I was anxious to get some decals on. I just wanted to see some colour...and convince myself that I was making progress. The markings proved to be a bit of a problem, as the decals in the Airfix boxing I used did have RCAF roundels, but the printing left me cold. Although they were accurate, the reds and blues were a microscopic dot matrix, not solid colour. Once I saw that, I couldn't unsee it. Fortunately I found a set of very old CanForce decals with a selection of roundel sizes, and the proper style of maple leaf. The colours were a bit dark, but I was happy t
  10. Thanks! If I remember correctly, the technique was originally used with AK Extreme in the article I read...I just took the leap and hoped it would work for Alclad. Thank you! Up until this model I had been a brush painter only, but the size of this thing made me finally break out the airbrush I bought years ago. I practiced for hours just using old broken models and parts from the spares box before I tackled anything on this Mustang. So far no disasters, and I am really pleased with the thin smooth finish. I don't know what I was afraid of. But you have to use the skills
  11. And this was the result. The effect was subtle, but enough of a difference to be effective. I think next time I'll try different shades of Alclad, now that I am no longer a lacquer virgin. I think varying the tones and colour of metal shades might be a bit more realistic. All that being said, I am really happy with Alclad.
  12. This was the first time I used Alclad for a natural metal finish, and to be honest, the first time I used an airbrush. After reading as much information as I could on prep, spraying and masking Alclad...I was terrified. In the end, with care, it proved extremely easy to use and sprayed beautifully...but man did it smell!! And the clean up was a bit of a pain. I saw how some modellers used different shades of Alclad and careful masking to represent the different panels and types of metal on the aircraft. Being so new at this, I thought that might be pushing it. I found another met
  13. Yes, Nexus Games. They are pretty much it for Kingston hobby supplies, and they do the trick in a pinch. It's also just down the block from Novel Idea Books which carries Osprey titles and a pretty decent military history section.
  14. One last post for today. After sanding and polishing all the surfaces it was time to paint. The wings were done first with a coat of Tamiya grey primer straight from the can. It went down perfect and smooth. Next it was Tamiya Silver Leaf decanted from the can and airbrushed on. It looked close to the silver/grey painted wing finish as applied to Mustang wings. A circle was masked on each wing to provide the background for the 24" RCAF roundels, which also had a 1 1/2" silver surround...for a total diameter of 27". When that had cured dry and rock hard after a couple days, I sprayed Model Mast
  15. Thanks again! Archer now has 1/24 scale sets of rivets, Dzus fasteners, small panels etc. They weren't available yet when I started, so I used the 1/32 versions...they look close enough for me. Richard
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