Avgas

I like that scheme. Nice build!

That turned out well! I have to do one of these one day..

Nicely done!

Thanks chaps. I have your build bookmarked, Mike and very inspirational it was too. I referred to it plenty of times while putting mine together. I'm happy to have repaid the compliment with the Flanker - look forward to seeing your build!

One of my favourites and very nicely done!

I do like dark camo schemes. Great job!

Thanks Buccy - you're too kind As far as the finish on the backside of the Flanker goes - I'm afraid it wasn't very scientific, organised, or planned. In short, it was trial and error until I was happy I could do no more (and to be honest I got a bit fed up with it at the end). I used different methods for the top and undersides too. Metallicus (thanks for the compliment, boet) can verify I attempted the metalwork 3 times (stripped and restarted). For the top side I settled on a layer of Humbrol metalcote (27001) sealed with Klear. Once cured, I applied a very thin enamel wash over the whole lot (brown in some areas and black in others). What that does is slightly stains the Klear, giving the impression of different metallic hues, which was a decent base to apply the other heat effects to (which were applied after another sealing layer of Klear. When trying new methods I tend to rely a lot on sealing layers of Klear, which effectively 'saves' my efforts. That way, if something goes pear shaped I only have one layer to wipe off). Those extra heat effects (mainly blue but some extra browns in places) were applied with a thick mixture of the cheapest kiddies watercolour paint I could find: I make the mixture thick enough to dab on without it flowing and wait for that to dry. Once dried, I use a slightly damp soft rag to remove the excess, leaving a 'stained' surface. If the rag is too wet it removes too much and you'll have to start again. The flip side (and advantage) of this is if you're not happy with the result it is easily removed. The key for it to work is the dryness/wetness of the rag. It took a few go's to find the optimum moisture level to remove excess and 'spread' the residue. At this stage all that's required is a little clean up (with a slightly damp cotton bud) to isolate colours on preffered panels and areas and a final double coat of Klear to give it a lovely shine. For the Underside I used the metalcote base, a few bands of Humbrol clear blue, a layer of klear, the thin enamel wash I mentioned, all sealed again with a double application of Klear. I wasn't very happy with it hence the trial and error approach of the top side which followed. I hope that made sense - it really was as haphazard and experimental as it reads...

Thanks for the comments guys - appreciate it!

Thanks David I used Revell 39 (green) and Humbrol 63 (brown). The Humbrol I found a touch too dark and will lighten it a bit for my next SAAF Mirage. Thanks Mish

I recently finished these two - Ukrainian Flanker (Academy) and SAAF Mirage 3CZ (Eduard) both 1/48. Both pretty much out the box, with some cockpit PE in the Mirage (I gave up on the PE halfway as it is a b*tch to work with). The Flanker is missing it's array of antennas (thanks carpet monster), a seat (going to fit aftermarkets soon) and quite a few decals. Excuse the blu-tac underwing... Both were pretty good kits with some challenges, though it must be said mostly due to my lack of tecnique.. I tried a few new things with both and learned a heap about modelling while at the same time having great fun - and that's what it's all about, eh? Anyway, some pics: The ladies: Solo Flanker: Mirage underskirt: Thanks for looking! Andre

Can it be done? I've gone and left my glue open for the night (again) and this morning it's unuseable (stringy when releasing the brush from the part I've applied the glue to). There's no way to get out to buy some more until tomorrow so thinning is my only option til then. Andre

It's good to be the king... Nice job on this one, Mike. Looks fantastic!

Well that turned out allright, eh? Nice job!

Thanks chaps - I've gone and bought some of that Citadel skull white spray.

Would a rattle can be the best way to go for a smooth finish? I'm referring to the white colour in particular which is quite a large area on an airliner - I've never had much luck spraying white through an airbrush. I usually use enamels by the way but am willing to give acrylic a go.

That looks great! Wish I knew how to build a good looking model in ten days. Normally takes me ten days (or more) just to paint!

Hi Charlie Single or twin seater? Andre edit: whoops, just read it again and it's the front bit you want. I have a spare two seat canopy but not the windscreen unfortunately.

Hi Adam Scaleworx does a conversion for the Hasegawa kit. Available from the Aviation Megastore. Andre

Cheers chaps Managed to pick up one like this for £8 off Ebay. It'll do

Thanks PHatNess! Not too concerned about accuracy at all. I see there is an Airfix BA 747 which will take care of the entire request. Do you know anything about it?

Took delivery of a Concorde this morning and my wife got quite excited about it - 'what a beautiful plane!' She's so excited she has now asked me to build a British Airways 747 to stand next to it as 'her' model. I just love the fact she's taken such a keen interest in my hobby all of a sudden and don't want to dissapoint her So, I plan to head out today to buy her model but don't have a clue which kit to get as I've never built anything that doesn't have guns and missiles.. Any opinions on the 144th kits and also BA decals would be appreciated! Andre

That's lovely!

Looks great! I have a bit of a bee in my bonnet about building a Concorde at the moment. I may need to get hold of one soon

If I understand you correctly, I think what you described is quite similar to my method, Walrus. I think the main difference is I've mentioned the tool which gives me straight lines and was not clear on how much of the bomb to paint green before applying the yellow line. Paint the rear end green, then use the template for the yellow, then paint the front green is clearer I think. Oh, and you spray it white first, which is so obvious, yet I'd forgotten and been struggling with coat after coat of yellow.... Cheers for the tip

I've started using one of these for this kind of job (curved surface): Paint bomb green, then stick bomb through the correct size hole (which meets bombs body at the point the desired yellow rings rear edge should sit). Spray front end yellow and leave to dry. Then stick bomb through a smaller hole which meets bombs body at the desired front edge of yellow line. Spray front end of bomb green. the yellow line should be protected as it sits underneath the circle template. Having re-read that, I hope it makes sense...