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Frantan Freddie

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  1. The RhodAF aircraft pre 1980 (Independence) were mostly dark earth brown and dark green. The undersides were dark earth brown and only changed when they bought ex-Kenyan Air Force Hunters and new build BAe Hawks when the grey bellys appeared. The training aircraft, Provost and SF 260 from 1976 onwards had dayglo orange (Provost) and yellow (SF260M) panels to improve visibility. The SF260Ws had light grey squares over the main and tip fuel tanks to reduce the fuel temperature to help solve and fuel vaporisation/engine failure issue. The Ms had yellow panels on the fuel tanks for the same reason.
  2. Hi, as title says, what is the best glue for adhering PE to itself and to plastic please? Actually, never been down the PE route before and a couple of models bought recently have PE within them so would love any advice on ‘how to…’. and ‘don’t’s. If there’s a thread covering this already could someone copy in a link to it, please? TIA
  3. Core… great tip there, Stef, got a Harris DIY paint brush and started gently but then increased the pressure and made a big difference! Looks much flatter and less sparkly.. Thanks!
  4. Thanks Chaps. I think I was a little far away which makes sense but it was about a 50/50 mix. I have some other metallics which I’d mixed for an F-22 job and were great so I’ll brush/sand down and I’ll have another go! Everyday’s a school day.. love this hobby! Thank you
  5. Hi All, Just building a Macchi MB326 Impala in SAAF colours which is supposed to be flat aluminium. I used Tammy's XF16 but it is has come out somewhat grainy, for want of a better word - looks like ultra fine sand paper. Any tips on smoothing it out to lessen the grain, please? More thinners or a varnish, maybe? No idea how to create a URL for the image... TIA
  6. Hi All, I'm helping a mate build a 1/48 Martin Baltimore and struggling to find any photos of the colour scheme that was use for No 203 Sqn Coastal Command in October 1942. His Dad flew them then and trying to replicate as accurate as we can. Any help gratefully received TIA Freddie
  7. Thanks chaps, I new to this forum so forgive for posting in the wrong section… fully aware that hot is not good for decals and that tepid speeds things up just looking for some way of keeping the water warmer than cold. Cheers.
  8. Hi all, A while ago I saw somewhere on the Internet a small heated bath for soaking decals. It was about the size of an iPhone and gently heated to keep the water tepid to assist with removal. Warm water definitely speeds things up considerably. Currently constantly topping up a ramekin with warm water from a thermos which is tedious. Has anyone seen one of these devices, please? TIA, Freddie…
  9. Hi, Can anyone recommend an alternative Matt and satin varnish to Xtracrylix by Hannants? They’ve been out of stock for some time now. TIA Dave
  10. Wow Andy, Thanks for that, very useful - exactly what I needed. 👍🏻👍🏻
  11. Mark, I have Humbrol only because that’s what I used back in the day. The local hobby shop suggested Tamiya acrylics as the way to go forward these days so I’ve started to collect. I’m just a little concerned about thinning and cleaning but that’s kinda been answered. Any tips would be great please? cheers
  12. Hi All, I’m back into modelling after a 30 year break and things are very different from back then. I’m after some advice please? I have a collection of Humbrol enamels, Tamiya and Mr Color acrylics for Airbrushing with. I’m a little confused as to what to thin with and what to clean with. I have both Enamel and Cellulose thinners, Mr Color Leveling Thinner 400 and Angelus Brush Cleaner… as the title suggests, all the gear and no idea, well almost no idea. Back in the day Humbrol was king and the process was simple - thin and clean with enamel thinners. I’m struggling with acrylics but fear I’m using the wrong thinners and cleaners. Any advice gratefully recieved TIA FF
  13. Mike, is there a preference of colour? I’m build a few military aircraft that will be grey camo’ed so would you undercoat black?
  14. Thanks Mike, sorry for wrong place and thanks for the advice, I shall have a look into what you’ve suggested.. 👍🏻👍🏻
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