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CplPunishment

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About CplPunishment

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Swindon, UK.
  • Interests
    1/48 Spitfires and Seafires, mostly.

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  1. Very nice Tiger Moth!! Got one in my stash that's now moved up priority for next build! @Troy Smith pointed to a previous post of mine, but there's a bit more detail on the taking pictures on my website, including some notes on camera settings, here's the address if interested... https://www.vexillummilitaris.co.uk/?page_id=1299.
  2. Gotta get me one of those!! Nicely done. How did it build fit-wise?
  3. Oh cool! I'm working towards doing an RAF Meteor in silver. I also have another Airfix P-51 that I plan to do as a post-war Aussie machine, but both in silver 'paint' all over rather than bare metal. For this I am definitely going to use LP-11 as I think it'll be a good representation of the silver paint, 'High Speed Silver', the RAF used - most RAF 'silver' schemes being HSS rather than bare, polished metal. LP-11 has a more 'grey' look to it rather than shiny silver, if that makes sense. Worth checking references, but your Spit 24 may be HSS rather than bare metal. And - shock/horror! -
  4. Hey Matt, thanks for the kind words. Couple of folk have mentioned the oil spray from the breather. It's kinda fun to think that it was a fairly last minute add after seeing it on a couple of photos, and only took a couple of dabs of lamp black oil paint and a dry brush to spread out the dabs in a few seconds. After re-reading your comment I wondered if it wasn't clear that most of the airframe, and what you can see in most of the photos, is Alclad2 Polished Aluminium. LP-11 is on the leading half of the wings only, only really visible in one shot from above. The sheen is mostly a result
  5. LOL! Depends on how accurate you want to get and how much effort you want to expend - and it doesn't look that much going off the previous comment. But yeah, I'd buy and a good VIII (not done the Eduard VIII in 1/72 personally) and expend the extra time and effort on making it even better with some resin and/or photo-etch. Good luck!
  6. Between and VIII and IXc there is more to it. And more still between and VIII and IXe/XVIe high back. Obviously the XVI bubble top is out of the question. The VIII was actually a better, strengthened airframe than the IX, which was really an interim stop-gap - a MkV with a bigger engine. The VIII airframe went on to form the basis of later Griffon-engined versions. The IXc is the closest as it will have the same 20mm and .303 armament - although you might want to check the style of blisters over the 20mm cannons. So, the differences between the VIII and IXc then: VIII has retractable
  7. , Thanks for the comment. I do usually throw in a black-and-white photo. Here's the photo set up.... the camera, on a timer, is set to an f stop of 32 and ISO of 100 or 200 (in some of the above I have it a bit too high).
  8. Food for thought, very much so. Thanks for the comment. I tend to be 'glass is half empty'. No surprise. But, '...where's the bar?'. In other words, I'm critical with a view to looking for how to improve. There's always room for improvement. I can always see mistakes or things I'd like to do better with. For me, a model that goes well is one where I only spot the imperfections afterwards. One that goes less well is when I can see that I'm creating a mess, or not achieving my goals, as I go. The last two were in that latter category. This Mustang was a bit of trial with NMF - been s
  9. Thank you! It's not really I diorama though. It's a bit of scrap sheet ply with a handful of dry mortar mix spread over it. The other bits and bobs are from the Airfix Battle Of Britain Ready For Battle set. Some one pointed out in one of my other submissions that a set of chocks would have made all the difference. I thought that was a pretty good idea so I got some and the other bits too. That's about as far as it goes; I don't have the patience or skill for a diorama (but I have thought about having a go). Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Paul.
  10. Very kind words, Joachim. Thank you. As with most things, my ambition outruns my capability... I spent ages trying to airbrush in thin heat colour changes at the edges of the exhaust stains - the straw, blue and violet colours that metal goes when heated. But failed, Spent nearly an afternoon on just that. In the end, I just sprayed a wide blast of yellow tan then smoke then some rubber black. Cheers, Paul.
  11. Supposed to be a quick build, and I guess for me it is. Second one in a year! Another 'lockdown' build. This is the Airfix P-51K Mk IV Mustang - the Dooleybird boxing. It's also my first NMF attempt. I chose a NMF RAF Mustang other that Dooleybird. The model represents a Mk IVa from 93 Squadron based in Italy in 1946. From my research the squadron only had the Mustang for a very short time and post war so I kept the weathering down, a bit i.e. no extreme gun port smoke/oil. Decals are from the Xtradecal sheet X48176. The model is OOB - I only added decals and the radio aerial (w
  12. Jolly good stuff! Whilst the Mk I is a butt-ugly airframe, compared with the MkIV, your model looks damn fine to me! Don't know whether you have tried this, but it can be useful to run a sharp knife down the panel lines and cut through the decals, following up with more Micro Sol solution - especially on new-tool Airfix kits where the panel lines are little deeper. This'll make sure that the decal conforms to the panel through the entire length of covered panel line (if that makes any sense, given it's Friday night/beer-o'clock ).
  13. Nice build. Thanks for the explanation on the invasion stripes technique - I saw that they looked 'hand painted' to scale. Nicely done!
  14. Yeah, great stuff! Love the photography and rough-field base too - sets it off a treat!
  15. Thanks for the comment! Yeah, canopies... I've seen a number of folk leave the entire canopy off until all painting is done, to the last minute, then attached with some PVa. On my Hunter I was originally going to build it with the canopy closed so in a rare move by me, I decided to leave it off until the last so that dust from the sanding stage didn't find its way on to the inside of the canopy, stuck there for all time by static. But... For me, the canopy, and it depends on the airframe as to which part of it, is integral to airframe and should be attached and have joint lines fill
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