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fu_manchu

Gold Member
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fu_manchu last won the day on December 29 2015

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About fu_manchu

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 07/03/1974

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  • Website URL
    http://www.newburyscalemodelclub.org.uk/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Thatcham, Berkshire

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  1. Same for me. I was sceptical as to how it would work. I now use a cocktail stick to apply, directly from the tube rather than the nozzle.
  2. I've got one and started the build. So far impressions are good, I have one tiny short shot on one tail plane (the static discharges) but I can live with that. However the instructions are poor. Quite a bit of dry fitting to try to work out what the instructions mean.
  3. The gear seems strong enough, they are pretty robust. The main issue being the wheel to gear joint, as like you I used the eduard wheels so it's a superglue bond rather than a proper weld. However the actual legs don't lack in sturdiness
  4. you can definitely have the correct weight with no visibility, i filled the voids either side of the nose gear, the underside gun area (which isn't visible) the top turret -again not visible, and if you put weight in the engine nacelles it should be ok.
  5. So I got those propellors for mine, I found them quite warped and spent quite a while with some hot water trying to resolve, but they still weren't perfect. The vac form canopies look lovely, again I bought some, but these I didn't use - so you have spares available if you have issues. The main challenge is that you either have to make a different cut on the fuselage to match the intended vac canopy (causing issues if you have to revert) or you need to further cut the vac to fit the stock shape. The reason i didn't use it is you literally have the thickness of the clear parts to try to butt joint the front circular element with the top part and there is quite a large contact surface that needs to match well, the kit parts give you a mm or so of adjustment which i found very useful. You could create an internal frame to give you a bit more leeway. Ian
  6. The kit looks infinitely better than the box art and you've made a good job of it
  7. fu_manchu

    Primer suggestions?

    Alclad for me as well. Dry in minutes and very good aherence. The white is also a good 'colour' in its own right as it lays down very well indeed.
  8. Having just used these for mine they are very nice. The 1/48 PE set is great and has parts that the kit is missing.
  9. Hello Not my most productive of years, but relatively happy with my builds. I managed a final push and got three finished in December which helped. First up, the Hasegawa F-4J in RAF markings: Second of the year, my first ‘proper’ 1/72, the Revell F/A-18F: Then a 1/48 Academy P-47: An Eduard 1/48 Tempest: 1/48 Airfix Spitfire XII: Revell 1/48 Typhoon: My favourite and my first WNW kit, the 1/32 Pfalz DX.II: Monogram 1/48 B-29 Washington: And finally, Hobby Boss 1/48 Yak-38M Forger: Thanks for looking Ian
  10. Yes I saw it then. Don't do many shows, but probably some southern ones later in the year and smw. Trouble is it will fill the boot and therefore limit what else I can take (and more importantly bring back!)
  11. No idea I'm afraid as I was just shovelling it in at the end! I filled the top turret with lead shot and what you can see in the picture underneath (no room for he actual turret just the visible part). Then I pushed loads into the engine intakes when I found I had got it wrong. What I should have done is put some weight inside the engine nacel for the inboard engines as there is a load of room but thought I didn't need it. It shouldn't cause issues as its in line with the spar for strength. You need the c of g about 1 cm in front of the main gear leg holes as the gear leans forward when fitted.
  12. Thanks, there are precious few builds of a Washington, your work certainly inspired - did I see it at SMW as well?
  13. Hi Geno Yes, the canopy was a pig, the fuselage doesn't describe an accurate circle so fitting the front glazing required some manipulation with masking tape to the shape of the fuselage, conscious that too much pressure would crack the clear main part and also trying not to pop the rear glazing joint out as well. I did buy the squadron vac formed ones as I had hoped to provide a better view into the cockpit, but it basically had the same challenge plus the requirement to try to butt joint incredibly thin vac parts, at least the kit plastic had some leeway, so in the end the kit ones won. Ian
  14. Hi Thanks, it's huge way larger than anything I would wish to build again. It's about 2.5 feet by 2 feet. Storage - same as all of my kits, in the loft. I normally box them, this won't fit in anything I have so just under a sheet.
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