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little-cars

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Everything posted by little-cars

  1. H&S have removable cups which makes deep cleaning a lot simpler. Personally I don't miss the 'quick pull back' that is on some Iwatas, the back handle just unscrews in a couple of seconds.
  2. Difficult question, is this an in theory question, or do you have a specific setup and problem? Paul
  3. The only thing I can advise is take the paint nozzle off, & clean the inside. Paul
  4. In our town we have three car dealers, a pre-war Aston Martin, a post war Aston Martin dealer And a Bentley/Rolls Royce specialist. http://www.djsmail.co.uk/sales-cars/ http://www.ecuriebertelli.com/sales.html https://www.hillierhill.co.uk/roll-royce-bentley-car-sales.html Does anyone else have any interesting local dealers ??? Paul
  5. For reference we have demo brushes at shows for people to try. We usually suggest 0.2mm as the smallest nozzle size to new users the 0.15mm can be added at a later date if needed.
  6. Hi, It's a good starting point for the modelling you are doing. 0.2mm should be good for details and small area painting and the 0.4mm nozzle with the 5ml cup good for area coverage, priming and car bodies. If you need an even finer line you can buy the 0.15mm needle and nozzle and use this with the 0.2mm aircap. Great set for beginners ( currently £85inc VAT about £70 ex VAT). The next brush up would be the Evolution Silverline 2in1 ( £150 inc vat, £125 excluding VAT Silverline 2in1 ), this has screw in paint cups, rather than push in which gives you the option of a tiny paint cup & larger paint cups, a different front end with a needle cap that can be removed if needed & a preset handle that lets you set a maximum paint flow. I would usually point people to the Ultra in your situation. Hope that helps. Paul
  7. If the air is coming through the brush OK, but no paint, it can only be a buildup of paint or more likely paint-gel in the nozzle that is stopping the paint flowing.
  8. Tamiya acrylics and X-20A thinners should't be a problem, except possibly to any rubber O rings. Needles can get damaged by wearing or by the tip getting damaged. The nozzle can get split if the needle is slightly bent, it can ware, then open the side of the nozzle and air will leak back to through the paint cup. You can check for a burr on the end of the needle by running it down your hand, and if the nozzle is split this can be felt the same, but a decent magnifier is the best thing to check parts with. Without any paint in, does the air flow as normal? Can you spray water through the brush? Paul
  9. Sorry to here you have had problems with the CN. I've always assumed that the CN stands for china as that is where they were sourced from. Firstly, what paints, cleaners, retarders have you been putting through the brush? What damage is there on the needle & nozzle ? Paul
  10. I've had a number of customers using different types of paint & different cleaners. Tamiya X20A is known to gunge up Vallejo paint and then the brush. You need to clean the brush & flush it through with cleaner , then water before going to a different paint type. Personally I would choose one paint range and stick with that if you can.
  11. I suspect some of your problem could be because you are using a mix of different paints. What thinner & cleaners are you using with Vallejo, Tamiya and Enamels ?? Paul
  12. It will void the lifetime warranty. I've had mine for over 20 years and still going strong, filters currently £18 each, last most people at least a year, so not a major cost.
  13. Sounds like you'll end up breathing in dried paint particles & what about the fumes? Can you not out an adapter on the end of the hose so it faces away from the wind ? Paul
  14. The first things to ask on chinese brushes is, can you get spare parts and what is the warranty. If the warranty is less than a year, I wouldn't touch it. You only get what you pay for. Have a look at some sparmax brushes, they are mid priced, have a large range, so you can get a brush for your application. Paul
  15. We can make up various hoses to order. Firstly you need to identify the thread size on the compressor. Is it the same thread as the airbrush, larger or smaller? If you have a photo of the airbrush thread next to the one on the compressor, should be able to work out what you have. Paul modellingtools.co.uk
  16. Unfortunately we can't make it to the IPMS Farnborough show today, I have a bad back. So people can still buy their supplies I've setup a 10% off voucher for our online shop. www.modellingtools.co.uk To get the discount, go to the checkout and on the payment page look for 'I have a gift voucher or promo code' . Click on this and enter the code Farnborough for 10% off your order.
  17. We usually recommend the Infinty cr+ with 0.2 & 0.4, then add the 0.15mm needle & nozzle if needed. But it really depends on the sort of subjects you are painting & how fine the details you are looking to paint. It's easy to maintain, flexible in configuration. You can fit any of 0.15, 0.2, 0.4 or 0.6mm nozzles and cup sizes from 50ml down to about 0.5ml. Has the pinch tip air-cap, preset handle with memory function. And spares don't cost a fortune. Paul
  18. I thought it was a lifetime warranty ?? Or have they changed them recently.
  19. Spray booths are still a big bag of worms, these are the options as I see them. When I checked into the options many years ago what became obvious is that if it's not fit for purpose and you get a sparks from the motor then your insurance probably wouldn't cover any damage from the flashback or any sort of fire. The logical choices when spraying (as I see it ), are; 1 Use nothing let the over spray go into the room. - Management usually complains in the short to medium term. 2 Cardboard box to catch the over spray - cheap and easily replaced. 3 Cheap Chinese extractor. (around the £100 mark) They usually state not to be used with anything flammable and leave on for 10 minutes after use to clear the room. Usually don't clear the air as they go, so spray and fumes build up in the room. Check if your house insurance will cover any damage caused 4 Build your own from a cooker hood or fan you have around. Check the certification of the hood, oils/fats are caught by a pre-filter, they are not usually certified to clear flammable vapours Again check your house insurance will cover any damage caused. 5 Buy a fit for purpose booth, sealed motor rated for flammable material, that will do the job properly, cost around £300. https://www.modellingtools.co.uk/graphicair-a300s-d-11995-p.asp Which you go for depends on your budget and your risk level. Options 3 &4 are obviously less of an issue if you are in a garden shed, rather than in your house. I went with the last option when I started modelling again 20+years ago, it's still going strong & has a lifetime warranty, so long term cost per year is low. Paul
  20. Mike, I'm tight with cash & you wouldn't believe my overdraft ! At the time I used the fit for purpose approach and decided on a booth. All I would say is check the instructions of whatever you buy for any restrictions that could create a problem.
  21. Yes, the filter stops the particulates getting into the atmosphere, that's what they are there for. As to cost, a filter for the booth I have is £18 and for a productive modeller lasts around a year. I have a number of customers that I see once a year or two at shows who buy filters.
  22. Mike, I understand your thinking, but unfortunately it's real life problems like insurance you need to be aware of with these devices. If you are putting anything flammable through the brush and the extractor isn't rated for flammable materials then, your household insurance company would not cover you for any damage if there was a flashback fire. I think you will find the instructions to all the cheap Chinese spray extractors usually have a section that says, don't put anything flammable through the device and leave on for 10 minutes after use. Not too bad if it's your shed that gets damaged, but a bit different if it's your home.
  23. Compressors are delivered by courier, next day delivery charge is £10. Thanks, Paul
  24. Hi, A tank is a nice to have, but not critical, especially for an occasional user. All you need is a constant air pressure at the pressure level you use. We only sell two compressors ( the one's I would used myself ). Both are sparmax, one has a tank the other doesn't. The little-jet is a simple 1/8th hp single piston compressor with an attached moisture trap/regulator. Weight is 3.5kg, it runs all the time you are painting and is very quiet. I have people using them in flats & in domestic situations with the other half in the next room. It will chuck out up to 30 psi quite happily & is currently £135 with a 2 year warranty. little-jet compressor The little tank compressor is uses an uprated 1/6th hp motor that feeds a 2.5litre tank up to 60 psi, then the motor stops until the tank pressure drops below 40 psi. It has a detachable moisture trap/regulator on the front and is £210, also with a two year warranty. Little-tank compressor
  25. Hi, I wasn't aware that the limit was so generous, glad you play by the rules. Paul
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