SaintsPhil

A fairly simple approach is to apply a dark wash over the top, either over a gloss coat or directly on to the paint (personal preference and the mediums you use will dictate). Personally I use either Tamiya smoke or GW nulin oil. After that is completely dry I then dry brush a lighter version of the base colour over the top. That brings out details and gets rid of the 'dirty look' you can get from the wash (if applied directly to paint). One word of caution if using Tamiya smoke the thinners may craze the base colour if it's a similar medium, life colour and Tamiya paints will probably be effected so you may want a gloss coat.

I'd try the Mr Color thinners on a cotton bud, just be really careful not to get it on the paint job!

Yes of course you're right! I should know that as I built one for the GB! Let's hope Eduard do another boxing for that then!

Excellent, although I'm thoroughly underwhelmed by the marking options! I was hoping for at least one Middle Eastern option. But mustn't grumble I might go for weekend edition instead.

The 2 tone grey was Dark Camo grey with Dark sea Grey upper surfaces. Have a hunt here for suitable colours in your favourite brand http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_fs.htm

Do they? That was my first thought, but could only find 1/72 and 1/48....

Looks nice, I'm building their F-13 currently, it's not quite Eduard standard but it's not half bad! Nice to see something other than a Russian or PLAAF scheme from the box for a change too!

Ah I didn't dream it afterall! Many thanks Phil

Good Afternoon BMers, Does anyone produce a set of decals for ZK308 with the D-Day stripes and WWII style code letters on the sides? I think the answer is no, if that is the case I have a back up plan, but need a little help... Could someone who has the decals in 1/72 or 1/48 tell me the size of the letters and roundels and I can scale up and see if I can 'make' them from generic sheets.. Thanks in advance Phil

I wouldn't worry about comparing it to the colour call out, that won't use accurate colours, it's just a representation. I can't comment on the accuracy of the humbrol colours, as I don't use them. Maybe someone has compared them to a BS colour chart?.. One thing I have noticed is that with my paints of choice (GSI mr color) the stencils disappeared against the 'Camo grey' which implies either my paint is too dark or the stencils are too light...

Tom, Thanks for taking the time to approach GSI that's much appreciated! It does all make sense now it was a cold foggy night so I assume the combination of the 2 caused the blooming. It's nice to know there's a real explanation to these things, mainly so I know what not to do next time! As for further spray, against my better judgement I switched to Vallejo and tried their OD primer over the top. The results were better, a pleasant surprise! I got a bit of beading on the surface but the primer has dried to a nice smooth finish. There is a touch of 'washing out' in the corners of a few parts but I think that was me over thinning the paint rather than the same issue. I know have an OK base to heavily weather on top of. Glad it was an AFV kit not a key I learnt this lesson on! Thanks again Phil

Personally I get on really well with my H&S EVO. I use it for everything, priming, varnish coats, painting (acrylics) even free hand Camo. The main plus for me is it's easy to maintain! Spares are easy to get hold of and are relatively cheap! That was the biggest selling point for me, given it was my first 'proper' airbrush and I'm ham fisted with these things!!

Woohoo a new SU-24! Oops just realised I'd already seen this previously and commented...

That's a lovely build, I really want one of these!

I'm no expert but I've always done it over a Matt finish, for the reason you state. I do it last thing and don't apply any thing else after, you just have to watch finger prints. You can get fixers and all sorts but I'm yet to try them. There's plenty of tutorials out there have a look on YouTube.

Those Eduard PE set are frustrating, they look great but the colours are never right! As for the Neomega pit, I'm sure I saw a build online (Tornado Sig I think) where a chap tried it and it was too short... Phil

Doesn't directly answer your question but Cheats way out might be to do them stopped mid way, for a break or surveying how they've done so far...

Well funnily enough it will be a well used truck by the end, hence I wasn't that upset by the finish! I may well go back over with another coat though. Yes I'm in the UK and it was a brand new jar, so it could be a batch thing I guess. I'll try again tomorrow afternoon when it's a touch warmer.

Ah ok it's temperature then Here's the pictures by the way The inside of the engine bay is unpainted OD plastic for reference.. The more I look at it the more I kind of like the effect though...

Thanks all for the input so far, I went out to the shed last night to take a second look and the results are worse! Normally I walk away for a while, come back and it's never as bad as you first think.... It was Olive Drab, MR color version, thinned with Levelling thinners to my usual consistency. As I said I almost exclusively use these paints so it's not a first time user issue I don't think...the OD has drive to almost a zinc chromate colour it's that washed out! I'll take a snap later. I'm convinced now it's a temperature/humidity issue, especially after searching the net as suggested above. It's was cold out when I sprayed Id say less than 10degC but above 0 and a slight mist in the air. Phil

I had a strange issue with Mr Color paints a while ago this time last year actually) can't remember if I posted about it or not, but it went away so I forgot about it...it seems to have reoccurred... The issue I have is that the paint seems to dry 'washed out' like very heavy grey fading. I'm wondering if it's a temperature/humidity issue. I spray outdoors in the shed, was previously a garage but the conditions are similar. Previously I thought it was reacting with the primer, but this time I sprayed direct onto bare plastic and got the same issue. Has anyone else had this issue? I'll add a photo later when home. Thanks Phil

That's a great idea! I bought the Academy F-15I to use the parts to convert the Revell kit, I was going to use the left over parts to practice airbrushing/weathering but now I have a much better idea for it!!!

From memory it's the UB kit with new parts, you have to perform some minor surgery to graft a new front end on! I had the kit but sold it..

Very nice indeed! What conversion work was required? I always assumed they were the same as the US version..

Id go Halfords as you want a lacquer based primer, rather than the vallejo stuff.