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Everything posted by TeeELL

  1. Mike, the point is that IBG have not checked references and have ‘assumed’ the transporter tractor unit is the same. A real pity when Airfix did get it ‘right’, within the limitations of the 60’s.
  2. Further to my last. After a lengthy search I was able to establish the ‘typical’ diameter of the tyre sizes: 1350x20 has a diameter of 47” In 1/72 this equates to 0.65” or 16.56mm 1500x20 has a diameter of 50” In 1/72 this equates to 0.69” or 17.6mm the wheels supplied by IGB are 16.2mm in diameter and, in addition, the tread pattern doesn’t match any of the 4 main cross country ‘traction’ tyres normally used by the British Army (as far as I can determine from photos and via HMVF). I wonder if an aftermarket company is around to correct this?
  3. Have you noted that the rear wheels of the tractor unit are the same diameter as those of the front (ie 13.5 x 20); they should be larger (15 x20) because of the additional load supported by the vehicle. Something Airfix got right half a century ago. Ironically one of the better reference guides comes from Poland where these vehicles continued in use post war.
  4. Please forgive me momentarily hijacking this thread but my attempts to communicate with Troy through this forum and via e-mail have both failed. Troy, if you read this - 10 years ago, in the Hurricane cockpit interior colours thread, you mentioned a photo of Hurricane RO o P partly dismantled. Would you be able to direct me into finding this photo please? I am researching the Hurricanes of 29(F) Sqn and RO were the ident letters assigned to ‘29 after Sep 1939.
  5. I have found this thread by chance. I am trying to nail down the use of Blenheim fighters by 29(F) Sqn. The Blenheim 1f replaced their ‘turret’ Demons and were flown until the latter part of August 1939 when the Sqn re-Equipped with Hurricanes. However, at the end of September they were re-designated a night fighter Sqn and received Blenheims, again the 1f. It is reported that the Sqn was non-operational through October whilst the Browning gun packs were fitted. In an earlier post, there is a photo of a pilot entering the cockpit of a Blenheim, this is one of several photos showing, the c
  6. Fascinating, just found this by chance! The Blenheim IV P4834 interested me because 29(F) Sqn apparently received 3 Blenheim IVFs serials P4833 and P4835 with P4845 the third. What I cannot determine is whether they received them with their Blenheim 1’s pre-War or whether they were part of the allocation when 29(F) had to relinquish their Hurricanes to become a night fighter Squadron in October 1939 - I suspect the latter although neither ‘first hand accounts’ I have seen mention the Mk IVF.
  7. I have received my 1/72 resin replacement ‘rear end’ for improving the Airfix FAW9. It is a fair lump of resin and, apparently, weighs in at 50gms; that will require a fair bit of weight in the nose - hope the U/C legs can take it. I now just have to dig out the model and get stuck in improving it - to replace the one I constructed previously.
  8. What the photographs show is the tail end of the aircraft without the engines. So that is airframe essentially. The re-heat nozzles of the jet pipes would not connect to any part of what you see other than the rear engine supports.
  9. I shall be using the Loco Green on an Airfix ‘City of Truro’ (my grandfather drove CoT during the period 1957-1961 on ‘specials’.
  10. Mark, I have R201 GWR Loco Green and R205 GWR Loco Indian Red.
  11. As an F4 pilot on 29(F) Sqn, it was always said that the XXX was because, in the mists of time, a Boss had instructed a painter to apply XX and one X to the aircraft ( ie XXIX = 29), the, slightly confused painter had applied an X an X and another X. Of course this was nonsense as, in the years of ‘Silver Wings’, 29(F) had flown: Siskins, Bulldogs and Demons with XXXXXX adorned on the upper surfaces of the top wings and any number of ‘X’s on the fuselages. However, the X was not carried forward from The Great War as 29 has been allocated a vertical white stripe! Hope thissuitably muddies th
  12. I’ve just read the bits in ‘From Jet Provost to Strikemaster’. The 3rd pre-production T Mk 2 (G-23-1) became the prototype T Mk 3. Rearranged cockpit with central instrument panel, single piece clear vision wind screen with Mk 2 sliding hood. A photograph shows ot with the wing fillet. the fillet remained on some early production aircraft. The T Mk3 was fitted for wing tip tanks and the cockpit for MB Mk 4P ejection seats. The Rebecca Mk8 was fitted.
  13. There is no update on my Dragon Sherman because I am building its 1/72 equivalent for a ‘blitzbau’ on another site. But I guess it counts for here as well so I will upload some photos in due course.
  14. Thanks Bull-nut for ‘light muddying’ the water :-). It is surprising that such, relatively, recent history is still shrouded in mystery. It is difficult that RWY seem to have had the ‘posed’ photographs taken at the same time. I can imagine that the Colonel wanted the ‘new’ named Shermans to be recorded so I would surmise that they were freshly painted. In my mind the desert pink and blue/black seem the ‘right colours’ but I have olive green and could apply that.
  15. I agree with you, desert pink will be applied and blue/black used as the disruptive.
  16. Thanks Sarg. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful with the horn. I am not sure I like ‘Light mud’, I might have to go for ‘Desert pink’.
  17. I would be most appreciative if any 'Shermanoholic' could give me a stear on what the return rollers would have looked like (ie steel painted and worn on the roller surface?) the Idler - similar? My Sherman II will be 'as newly issued' to RWY in Syria, so I'll not be even dipping my toe into much weathering for this build.
  18. Just to prove that I have been busy, here is a photo of my tank with the first coat of 'Light mud' applied. These are the major components, obviously, but all the other bits that required 'Light mud' have also been airbrushed. A second coat will go on this morning. Light mud (by Colourcoats) is a vaguely green grey colour. The disruptive colour I am planning to use is 'Blue/black' also by Colourcoats.
  19. Sgt Squarehead, my list is of features that I can readily identify - I am a total 'Sherman' novice so the finer points are beyond me. Some of the photographs I have include the crew sat on the front of the tanks obscuring details (HIGHWORTH in particular). I gues, as I do not know what the horn looks like I would have difficulty determining if it is fitted or not - sorry. Bonhoff, The Caunter scheme was formally cancelled by G.O.1272 of 6th December 1941 and many vehicles prior to that date had not had the scheme applied. G.O.1272 introduced a simplified paint scheme using Lig
  20. I have had to disassemble and rework the front end of the sand skirts as the 2 pieces did not sit well together. I would say that this is one area where an injection of ‘extra skill’ is required, trouble is I couldn’t find any but the latest bodge seems OK, as long as you don’t look too closely. I had hoped to lay down some primer yesterday, but I realised there were a few more bits to add before hand. I hope to fire up the airbrush on Monday.
  21. Ozzy, the very best of luck, especially with getting parts MA12 and MA20 as well as MA6 and MA21 to fit together. Top tip, if you are going to solder, make sure everything is at right angles and don't spread the solder too close to the 'parts joining places'. Oh, I used cyno the join the aformentioned pieces. I mentioned using Viakal limescale remover to remove the oxidation from the PE. I have a photo of the result. I brushed the viakal on, left it momentarily and washed it off. You might be able to see the effect: It is the piece of PE on the left side of t
  22. Great stuff there, I am taking onboard all the comments as I am planning on doing the M4A2 “Divsion Leclerc” version as a Royal Wiltshire Yeomanry Sherman III for the blitz bau!
  23. OK, I have started a new thread to highlight the way of getting the PE sand skirts on the Dragon Sherman III positioned correctly. In the first instance, the instructions leave a great deal to be desired and, as I have found, it is all too easy to end-up with things out of position. If you follow these steps you will avoid the pitfalls: It is important to work from the rear of the tank forward. 1. Construct parts MA7 and MA1. 2. Position part MA11 on the side of the tank and lightly scribe along the top section (this will give a reference line 2mm ab
  24. Having put the sand skirts on I am now in a position to recommend the order of construction as it doesn't match the 'instructions'! I have posted the order of construction in a separate topic, rather than have it hidden within this.
  25. I have been a bit lax on this build since the discussion on soldering. the 6 pieces that require soldering to make the forward and rear parts of the sand guard have been completed and attached. I would say that the Dragon instructions on their fitment lacks detail and it is far too difficult to try and dry fit the forward halves of the sand guard - you rather have to 'take the plunge' and hope for the best! Sure there are etch places which should match their neighbour but it is all a bit hit and miss. This is the etch cleaned and ready for tinning. I have since disc
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