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    Highworth, Wilts
  • Interests
    Cuban Airforce, aircraft I flew, Armour of WW1.

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  1. Robin, I need to do some vac-forming but a number of circumstances mean that I cannot do anything until the weekend after next.
  2. In endeavouring to correct the various issues raised by Robin-42 and my own observations on ‘quality control’ I have conspired to make a massive and, presently, irrecoverable muck up! Having applied the necessary filler to various locations I put the model down but too close to the model room heater and, unbeknown to me, the canopy was sitting against it. The canopy is irreversibly distorted! Although difficult to identify a ‘silver lining’ in this very dark cloud, I have done a lot of additional work on the various seams and joins and I should, at least, be able to re-prime and re-spray some of the model. I just need to resolve the canopy problem
  3. Indeed, there are a couple of other areas that have opened up. I confess that I have been agonising over them but your comment has pushed me in the right direction. The ‘gaps’ are nothing like as significant as the photo suggests and so I have gone for the ‘Tippex’ fill, I will see if that does the trick. I also need to reduce the rather obvious ‘join’ between the B-57 fuselage and ‘my’ forward fuselage.
  4. Nearly a major set back today! I masked the model ready for the upper application of DSG (Hu 164). I felt that the colour was a shade too dark so planned to cut it with some MSG. Not to be though ….. my DSG was dried out. In the end I discovered I had some HATAKA ‘Orange line’ and their DSG was a few shades lighter. That has been applied and I am leaving well alone for 24 hours. oh! I also changed the paint booth filter.
  5. The under surface of the model has received a coat of Hu166 LAG, the colour difference to the Tamiya primer is all but indistinguishable so a photo isn’t worth publishing. I am hoping to mask and apply the upper surface grey tomorrow afternoon.
  6. I have been asked for a forward fuselage to enable a PR7 to be created from the old Airfix 1/72 B(I)6. As the modeller want to detail the cockpit I made him a ‘2 halves’ version with an added extension. The above image also shows my improved nose wheels and finer mudguards
  7. The model has had a coat of primer: I am hoping that I can lay down some LAG later today, then I might be able to do some masking and get the upper grey sprayed tomorrow.
  8. Amos, I will be using Aero Club white metal seats (or rather seat), tbh their weight amounts to ‘not a lot’, as for ‘flats’ on the tyres, they move the point of balance by no more than a millimetre or so. Bottom line, if you don’t get it right you will have a tail sitter. My S&M Canberra is neutrally stable - it sits on the nose wheel or, if the rear is pushed down it sits on its tail.
  9. With the forward fuselage now completed and the interior in place it was time to see how much ‘church roof lead’ I could squeeze into the various spaces. Using disks of lead (punched out of scrap roofing lead) and the remainder of the void filled with tiny disks of lead (used as speaker weights) I managed to achieve 35 grams. The general consensus is that a 1/72 Canberra needs about 50 grams, so I added about 20 grams of curved lead to the roof of the ‘camera bay’. A weight and balance check revealed that the model should end up as a ‘nose sitter’ with slightly more than 10 grams of excess weight. Here is my very sophisticated test rig: The point of balance being 2 cocktail sticks in the main U/C leg ‘holes’. The result: I can now, finally attach the forward fuselage.
  10. Thanks Amos. It rather looks as though I won’t be bothering going to Newark next week. I may well go to the South Yorkshire museum as they have a forwars fuselage of ‘779 and I can probably get some measurements there. The Green Satin might have to be a bit of a guess. in the meantime I have designed and printed some less skinny nose wheels, beefed-up the mudguard supports and adjusted the center ‘boss’ to make the mudguard sit over the center of the tyre. Those items have just finished printing and been for their IPA wash. Off to U/V blast them now.
  11. Hi Fritag, no probs with the ‘likes’, how are your models progressing - I am so involved with my 3D modelling that I am forgetting to checkout the other excellent builds on here! we didn’t practice PFLs, it would probably have been safer than single engine approaches! My memory of Canberra flying is faded now (it was 40 years ago) and I am of a mind that a PFL would have been ‘challenging’ as I suspect the flaps would have needed pumping down by hand!
  12. Spent a little bit of time designing an alternative set of mudguards for the Canberra. The kit supplied parts are decidedly ‘chunky’. the comparison: L to R Airfix B6, Airfix B8 and mine. Behind some 1/48 versions - just to see.
  13. Neither will work on resin. You will need to use PVA for the transparencies.
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