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Das Abteilung

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  1. Nicely done. I have a similar plan for a Miniart Late Lee. However, this kit is one of the early Academy releases with the too-tall bogie brackets so it sits up too high. They made the mistake of making them the height of the taller M4 brackets but did correct the error in later production runs. There is no way of telling from the outside of the box. Airfix-boxed Lee and Grant kits are OK.
  2. Regardless of name they all work in the same way. Essentially they form a barrier between paint layers to make the top layer easier to remove without damaging the lower layer. Not sure you get a better product for a greater price, taking different sizes into account. There are a couple of washable paints out there (MiG, AK Interactive). These can be used without chipping product but are probably easier to use with it. You use water to loosen the paint before scrubbing, abrading etc. AK Interactive make a washable medium you can add to their paints to achieve the same effect, but be aware that it dilutes the paint. Don't know if it is cross-brand compatible. But all of the products only replicate the effect that can be achieved with cheap hairspray, as noted above. A technique often used with hairspray is salt sprinkling. The salt is applied while the hairspray is wet and then brushed and rubbed off to reveal the under colour.
  3. If you're in the UK, Wildcats are turning into a useful supplier of brands that have been harder to find in the UK and sourced from across the Channel in earlier times. He has an eBay shop too. Prices may be higher than we've been used to but everything is free shipping in the UK. Stock does sometimes vary between eBay and web stores. Centurion wheels were 31.6" diameter when new. 803mm. A fraction under 23mm in 1/35. http://tanks.mod16.org/pdf/Centurion mk 10 datasheet and drawings.pdf
  4. One glaring error here by Academy (who make the "Airfix" kit) is that the Grant had the radio in the turret and not in the hull. That was the whole reason for the Grant turret. I believe that Academy have simply kept the Lee interior whereas the Lee and Grant were different internally. Lees in UK service retained the hull radio but had the SCR628 replaced with a No19 set moved forward nearer the driver (who doubled as the operator) and mounted on the hull side rather than the sponson top. Grants had a water tank and other stowage where Academy have put the SCR radio. Panzer Art have just released an excellent No19 radio. I've just bought a couple. Resicast do a set including No19 & No38 wireless sets. For Panzer Art in the UK and some other harder-to-find brands try Wildcats Models in Glasgow. He has an eBay shop too. https://wildcatsmodels.com/metal-resin-adds/21003-panzer-art-135-re35-065-m2-browning-50-cal-heavy-machine-gun.html?search_query=radio&results=5 If you Google "M3 Grant interior" a few images pop up of various parts of the interior. The Miniart Grant "interior" kit makes a more correct job of the Grant interior and there are many images of that on the Miniart website. Interesting about the different track widths. I've got a couple of the Minart T41s to fit to other brand kits. The PMMS review of the Miniart T41s has them spot on for width: 11.62mm in 1/35. Terry does however say that they fitted many other kit brand sprockets but NOT Academy, so the Academy sprockets are either too narrow or the toothed rings are unusually thick.
  5. Like many modellers, Bovington went with the "Jentz knowledge" of that period that tanks did leave the factory with areas of unpainted red primer in lieu of Rotbraun. So don't throw too many rocks at them for that. In Thomas Jentz we usually trust. However, Mr Jentz subsequently revised his understanding of the source documents. He now says that the instructions permitted those areas to be painted in Rotbraun and Olivegrun to be left in primer and Dunkelgelb only applied to the Dunkelgelb areas. In other words, to cease painting the tanks in overall Dunkelgelb and then applying the camouflage and to paint the 3 colours directly onto the primer. So all areas of primer were to be overpainted with something and not left unpainted.
  6. Not sure whether splinter schemes were ever actually used. Controversial. MNH Panthers were finished in a striped scheme for a time. Otherwise yes, locally crew-applied.
  7. Maybe that's what Tamiya have been working on for their Next Big Thing "on many people's wish list". Long thread over on Missing Lynx. And they did up-issue their A12 Matilda. Supposed to be announced by 16th Sept. Gekko might be a good bet for an A11. Also Amusing Hobby: they seem unafraid of tackling the obscure and non-existent. Or Riich after their nice related Vickers E offerings. But then Airfix seem to have gotten the bug since their association with Academy, although that would perhaps be something of a curate's egg based on the A27s.
  8. For those interested, here is some wheel profile info. You can see from the section photo that the ribs are actually very pronounced by the final type. This kit would have the less pronounced outermost rib.
  9. I'm fairly certain there is no seam along the top of the MG cover. I can't see how that hollow tube could have been cast with a seam along the top and the ejection port underneath. And none of the photos that show any view of that area show any hint of one. Sand casting essentially uses only 2-part moulds: I can't find any evidence of multi-part moulds being used. So the gun cover must have been cast in a vertical mould, muzzle down, with outer and inner moulds. Meaning that any mould line would be around the inner end of the tube inside the turret. To have a mould line along the top would require a 4-part mould: bottom, 2 upper sides and an inner. Back to the light lens issue. The yellowed lenses in the photos are indeed nasty modern flimsy plastic with a fine check pattern on the inside. So no use as a reference. The Museum "Demon" actually has a vertical ribbed glass lens with the paper filter on the inside, not on the outside as I mistakenly said before. Here are some photos of the different A11 lenses and those on the A10 from different angles. The A10 lenses are plain, slightly crazed, glass. It is easy to see how the black paper looks grey.
  10. Likewise. I have that kit and the DEF mantlet but haven't tried to cobble them together. I thought the AFV Club flexi vinyl offering was probably a non-starter. Don't forget that you need the version with the ranging MG. Also, FYI, the Amusing wheels are wrong insofar as they don't have the reinforcing rings inside the rims. Impossible to mould on one-piece hard plastic wheels, which is why AFV Club and others include the wheel rims as part of vinyl tyres. Although I noticed that the new AFV Club FV4005 kit says it has new one-piece wheels: not seen them. The resin wheels by Panzer Art, MR Modellbau, Sovereign 2000 and Brach all include the rings. Panzer Art are probably best value if you can find them. Sovereign are a good second for value and they do both new and distressed versions. The Legend wheels are oddly worse than any of the kit offerings. I'm very interested to see how their gun barrel builds up, with its unusual construction. I have an RB M68 barrel on standby "just in case" as it has a separate fume extractor unlike, say, the Barrel Depot offering. While the M68 and L7 gun tubes were essentially identical the fume extractor cans were different. As for colour, there have been many discussions on this subject around the base colour and lighting conditions. There are a couple of recent-ish threads in this very forum. I did ask for out-of-the-bottle recommendations for the 3 eras of Sand/Sinai Grey but didn't get an answer. I'm not a fan of self-mixing because of the lack of consistent accurate repeatability, which is counter-intuitive to self-mixing for better accuracy compared to computer-controlled manufactured products. And I'm not sure I want to be worried about whether my subject is placed in a gloomy day on the Golan or a sunny day in the Negev.
  11. If you want an "accurate Scale Model" model of the 251 Ausf C then, sadly, you need to start with another kit. The ancient Tamiya kit's interior is largely fictitious or incorrect with much of it missing completely, and the whole lot needs to be replaced. The more modern Dragon or AFV Club kits are very much better starting points. Royal Model do a very nice replacement interior for this kit (below), but expect to pay €40+ with shipping. Not sure you will find this in the UK, but you can buy direct. It's an expensive fix compared to buying one of the better kits. And their replacement front MG shield is annoyingly still the wrong shape: the rear edges are angled, not vertical. Winter wash would have been applied individually by crews so every vehicle would have been different. Some used paint, some used whitewash. Whatever they could get hold of. AK Interactive and Mig Ammo both offer real washable white acrylic paint. AK Interactive also have a Washable Agent that you can add to normal paint, but I wouldn't guarantee that it is compatible with other paint brands. There are several winter wash tutorials on YouTube if you search "washable white". https://www.royalmodel.eu/en/afv-microdetails-set/282-sd-kfz-251-c-135.html
  12. Apparently the Egyptian Army had some Matildas in 1948, so at least some stayed in N Africa. Matildas were effectively out of service by Alamein after Crusader and Gazala attrition. That might suggest that the remaining few were given to Egypt and few if any were available to send to Australia, Matildas for Russia were mostly 1942 production I believe, the year of peak Matilda production, and almost 1/3 of total production went there (and more than twice as many as went to Australia). As free gifts at huge cost, neither loaned nor leased. But I understood what Ade meant. Let's not argue over the terminology. The Arrangement was called British Empire War Assistance to Russia and if anyone is interested this is the list of equipment supplied as presented to Parliament in 1946. https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/commons/1946/apr/16/russia-british-empire-war-assistance Not that any of this helps with colour determination. It seems likely, even certain, that the Matildas were repainted whatever the source or arrival colour. I'm still thinking a browner shade of normal KG3 is a strong contender. But could we possibly be talking about SCC16 Very Dark Drab here? This was a colour specifically for the Far East but I'm not sure its use has ever been definitively documented.
  13. I think probably more of a very dark grey rather than a true black. The greying in the photos is partly refraction through the glass, especially if ribbed.
  14. The effect you see in the Deoch and Dreadnaught photos is a paper blackout mask inside the glass made from black sugar paper. You see these on most early war British tanks before proper hooded blackout lights were introduced (on Crusader?). The sideways D shape cutout was more common than the round one. I'm not sure that the lenses on Bovington's running A11 (pictured) are glass. They may be plastic which has yellowed with age, and in any case are almost certainly not original. Their earlier-model non-runner (marked as Demon but not the same vehicle) with its lights at the front has no glazing in 1 light and a paper mask on the outside of the other, which helps not at all.
  15. Yes, after-market metal track links are very expensive: typically £30+. There are many brands of plastic after-market track links available. Much cheaper than the metal varieties. AFV Club and Rye Field (RFM) both do Tiger sets - but you obviously get enough for a whole vehicle. If you were thinking of replacing the vinyl tracks anyway you might get enough links in the pack for some spares. If you're new to the game you might find the vinyl tracks easier rather than assembling individual links from hundreds of parts. But they are a bit of a Marmite subject. While easier, they don't always fit or sit right, can be hard to join and any mould lines are impossible to remove. Bronco have a whole range of plastic track links for M3 and M4 mediums (Lee, Grant, Sherman) and others. I've just bought the Bronco Valentine track set for extra armour on an M3 Lee in Burma. As noted, Scalemates is a good source of information. If you look up a kit on there they will usually present you with a list of associated items, although not always complete or exhaustive. They usually have a reasonably good idea of who has stock at what price, but again not always infallible. Getting stuff from Europe has recently become a lot more complicated and potentially more expensive You do see people selling off spare kit parts on eBay including track links. Pot luck what you find on there. FYI the Airfix 1/35 kits except for the Cromwells are re-boxed Academy kits.
  16. None of us is as smart as all of us. And unlike some other forums there are no "dumb" questions. We all need to discover something we don't know. Ask and someone will answer.
  17. Yes because Russian doctrine did not conceive of tanks firing from hull-down defensive positions on reverse slopes. Western tank designers knew that their tanks would be forced to adopt defensive positions against the numerically superior Warsaw Pact forces and the effective use of terrain was an integral part of Western armoured doctrine. The T-54/55 turrets did not lend themselves to modification to allow greater depression. The M51 Sherman suffered the same problem with the D1504 105mm gun and had a hole cut in the roof of the turret and patched over to give a few more degrees of depression. A similar problem exists with more modern Russian tanks with automatic loaders as the gun must return to zero elevation to reload. In a hull-down position this means the gun pointing skywards for the 8-10 seconds reload cycle time and potentially giving the tank's position away.
  18. If I have mistaken mud for rust then I apologise. As I said at the top, this is a bloody good effort and I'm not back-tracking on that. The discussion has drifted, as they often do, into wider aspects of the subject matter. But at the age of the vehicle and its maintenance regime there would be no "natural corrosion". As I said, no MkIV was ever more than a year or so old by the end of the war, mostly much less, and armour plate would not display bright rust tones in that time. And they spent 75-80% of their lives behind the lines being looked-after. No self-respecting tank crew, commander - or company sergeant-major - would permit their prize machine to be rusty. This is an Army that spent time cleaning and oiling shovel blades and pick axe heads to keep rust at bay and for which soldiers would be disciplined harshly for even the smallest speck of corrosion on any of their personal equipment. Oil and grease leaks were unavoidable in use, though, as were dirty rain streaks. The MkIV in the Royal Army Museum, Brussels, is in exactly its WW1 condition entirely untouched. It has not been restored, repainted etc. Being indoors for a century it has not deteriorated appreciably since. Deborah was buried for 82 years, although in a largely anaerobic situation. Never ever trust a colourised photo from WW1 or WW2 as a reference. There are few contemporary colour references to use as references and it is more art and guesswork than science. The only one in which I would place any trust is the recent "They Shall Grow Not Old" by Peter Jackson in association with the Imperial War Museum which is based in a great deal of research of surviving uniforms, equipment etc. WW2 original colour photos almost all show green or blue colour shifts because of the nature of the film stock of that time and are also unreliable. WW1 British track plates were made from face-hardened armour, not Hadfield or other manganese-containing alloys which was reserved primarily for the production of millions of Brodie helmets from mid-1915 onwards. Manganese was still relatively rare and hard to find and extract in that period. Seabed harvesting of manganese nodules had not then begun. Track plates had a habit of fracturing as a result of the face hardening.
  19. Is the SAC number on the front right corner the serial, or are you looking for a US Air Force serial somewhere?
  20. Every Miniart T-54 and T-55 is a distinctly separate variant, so you need them all if you want to plot the development course from T-54-1 to Model 1981. Obviously not the Polish and Czech variants. But they don't all come in interior versions so you may need to buy some extra interior versions to sacrifice the interiors for non-interior versions. As for Tirans, Miniart don't do a Tiran 5. They have said in the past that they might, and new T-55 versions continue to be released - so there is hope. You would need an appropriate T-55 and add the Legend or Blast Tiran 5 update sets and an M68 gun barrel. Egypt and Syria received a mixed bag of new and used T-54s and T-55s over time including Czech-built, although the Tiran 5s I've seen all seem to be Russian-built. Or you could cross-kit the parts from one of the Minart Tiran 4 late kits: the Tiran parts were the same on the 4 and 5. Tamiya's Tiran 5 is a dog: lots wrong with it, not worth correcting since the Miniart kits appeared. Miniart cover the Tiran 4 very well with all the versions. The early minimally-converted version. The initial Sharir with just the M68 gun and the later Sharir with all the bins and bits. They also do the specific SLA late version which retained the original 100mm D-10TG gun. The non-interior version of that kit has a much better decal set and comes with both spider and starfish wheels. The interior version is only appropriate to their short time in IDF markings while the first SLA crews were being trained on them.
  21. Do you mean Tiger as in WW2 German tank or Tigr as in modern Russian GAZ MRAP? No brand of Field Green 34097 would ever be appropriate for a Tiger tank in any theatre. As for the GAZ Tigr I suppose 34097 would be a passable match for the current Russian green. In acrylics, you can get 34097 from AK Interactive, MRP, Gunze Mr Color, Vallejo. There may be others. But, as noted above, if you're looking for German WW2 Olivegrun RAL6003 there are very many brand choices. Arguments about which is "best" or "most accurate" have raged for a long time and will continue until hell freezes over without a concensus.
  22. Just a little point. You have Vickers K gun magazines scattered around the vehicle but no K guns. And the Tommy Gun would be unlikely to be hung on the outside where it might get jolted free and lost.
  23. Yes I know. A schoolboy grammatical error that has stuck. I keep meaning to change it to something else but never get round to it. "Die" of course has another meaning in English. Other forums have required a switch to real names and I thought Britmodeller might follow suit. Of course they might be forced to do that by the sort of social media regulation legislation being considered in the UK parliament. As for knowledge, you pick it up over time and hopefully it sticks. Or you bookmark the sources........... There are 4 common armour-related misconceptions seen on AFV models. Armour plate does not wear, chip or scratch to silvery tones. It is dark metallic brown all the way through, whether FHA or RHA. Armour plate does not rust anything like as quickly as milder steels and does not adopt orangey rust tones. Many "in service" tank models look like multi-year range wrecks. Weld metal does not rust and remains bright and shiny pretty much for ever. All-steel tracks, and many rubber-padded, do not rust to orangey tones either because of the manganese content. Milk chocolate - milky coffee tones. Often the age of the vehicle is not considered in heavy weathering. No MkIV tank was ever more than a year or so old in service and they saw relatively little use outside the major offensives. A tank is not a defensive weapon, which is why Germany did not develop many in WW1. No Sherman, even the earliest, was ever more than 3 1/2 years old in WW2. The 76mm types were barely in operational service for a year and the HVSS types for just a few months. The Pz.Kpfw IV was the only tank in production throughout WW2 and even then early survivors were overhauled and upgraded or relegated to training. British doctrine called for vehicles to be repainted when the paint coating ceased to provide sufficient protection, and at least every 5 years (hardly relevant in WW2!). Movement between theatres also called for repainting.
  24. Jack G's 2nd picture of the right side is perhaps more informative. In that photo the dark patches on the vehicle and the fuel cans are tonally about the same. But that is tone, not colour. So, yes - it could be an application of some sort of "sand" over dunkelgrau. The runs across the darker patches might indeed suggest some sort of sand slurry mixed with water, or very hurried painting. But it could still be 7027/8020. I'd like to see a reliable tonal comparison of dusty dunkelgrau and sandgrau. As an open-top vehicle the interior would need to be a colour relevant to the environment. A dunkelgrau interior would really stand out from the air as a dark patch, although the interior shadow would be a dark patch anyway. Ground attack pilots often reported that shadow was their best clue to targets.
  25. Not sure I agree with the suggestion above. The jerrycans on the back will be dunkelgrau, noticeably darker than any part of the vehicle. I believe that is a 2-colour paint scheme. With the higher contrast between the 2 colours under the dust I would suggest the later 7027/8020 rather than the early 7008/8000. This photo of Bovington's Tiger in the early colours shows the low contrast. These colours are believed to be accurate and were matched to surviving paint found during restoration to running condition. They have recently repainted their Sd.Kfz251 in the same scheme, which would be a better comparison with the 250 - but annoyingly no-one seems to have uploaded any post-repaint photos of it. However, what we each see will vary slightly because of different eyesight, monitor settings not to mention the light and camera settings of the photo. Having seen the real thing many times this photo looks "about right".
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