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Das Abteilung

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  1. I know it's a bit late in the day but the colour concerns me. Is there any hard evidence for the colour of the Autocars, or that Cananda followed - or did not - UK practice in WW1? The generally accepted colour for British vehicles of the WW1 era is Service Colour, AKA Service Brown. From the paint mixing recipe in the Handbook For Artificers this has very similar pigmentation to the WW2 SCC2 brown. Indeed it has been said by Dick Taylor in his Warpaint book series to be something like SCC2 brown. Mike Starmer believes it to be like SCC2 with a touch more green. In a period me
  2. There is also the Academy kit, but that's an M4A3E8(105) like the other Dragon kit too and equally hard to find. Tiger Model Designs (TMD) have all of the conversion parts you might need to upgrade or create an M4(105). But have a word with your bank manager first......... Paying over the odds for the rare Dragon kit will almost certainly be cheaper. Yes there are quibbles about some of its details, notably the gun mount shape. There are several turret differences between 75 and 105mm besides the gun mount. They had the "high" bustle with loader's hatch but did not
  3. The IDF Modelling link probably won't work if you're not a member of that site. Joining isn't easy. I asked exactly the same question on the Facebook IDF SIG recently. Michael Mass and Robert Manasherob are both in that group. More specifically I asked which of the various paint brands was considered most "accurate" Sinai Grey (Not Sand Grey) for each of the eras. I didn't get an answer from either of these people, at least not so far. But the consensus of the responses was that there is nothing to choose between the brands as the real colours varied anyway and weat
  4. In a period memoir the Service Brown colour of tanks was described as being like "pig slop". I presume this meant what came out of the back end of the pig rather than what went in the front end! In those days pigs were widely kept and the description would probably have been widely understood. Sadly I'm not overly familiar with "pog slop" so I have no idea what colour that might have been beyond generic brown . Horse poo I do know as I have to drive through it every day to get to work, but we digress in a worrying way............ Taking Mike Starmer's name in vain I believe he
  5. MkVs were certainly at Amiens but would not have been universal. MkIVs would have been present too and possibly some older Mks converted to supply tanks. IIRC Bovington's MkII was at Amiens as a supply tank. I wonder if the cars were towed by supply tanks following behind. Combat tanks' already-limited mobility would have been further compromised by towing a deadweight load. Any tow attached to the lugs at the rear of the horns would have prevented turning and would have snagged the tracks even in a straight tow as the cars were narrower than the tanks. The tanks that were equ
  6. Chalky soil suggests not Korea. Salisbury Plain seems likely. Looks like target hulks in the background, so could be Lulworth. SCC15 was still the official colour for Korea. Deep Bronze Green came later but was not as universal as is often thought. I think this might be an old Mk3 in use much later as a recovery training aid. Note the lack of any markings, tow cables hooked up, abandoned shovels, lost rear section of side skirt and the very churned up ground.
  7. The real MkVIII tank parked next to the MkVIII model at Bovington is painted in a colour I would call Dark Earth, and it is very different to the model's original paint. As seen here. On my MkIV I used the Ochre Earth 78 from the Ammo MiG WW1 colours set.
  8. Those tanks have the T49 3-bar steel tracks. Bronco do those in indy link plastic if you don't fancy the price of the metal brands. Model Hobbies are showing stock of the Bronco for under a tenner. T54s would be an age-appropriate fit too, as in the colour photo: those are the "cuff" version with curved cleat, also done by Bronco. IIRC the turret box comes in brass in some of the Sherman etch sets: Voyager Sherman III, possibly - or the old Top Brass Additional British Parts set. I do have a spare plastic one from a Dragon or RFM kit which I have no obvious need for. PM me yo
  9. Company page says to contact via Facebook or Instagram. Have you tried either of these? No phone number listed or address: not sure that is legal. I thought that all websites had to provide a non-web means of contact. No registration for a company of that name at Companies House. WhoIs says that their domain has been registered through GoDaddy since 2015. Have they taken your money and how did you pay? If you paid by credit card you should not be debited until the order is ready to ship. There are steps you can take through credit or debit card providers to get money back, a
  10. Just be aware that the Asuka "value" M4A2 has the very early M3-style top-roller bogies and is direct vision. This is less common in NWE because it would have been built before autumn '42 but by good fortune it matches exactly the tank behind the band in your photo. That kit doesn't have any of the usual British modifications AFAIK. That means no turret stowage box, smoke dischargers, fire extinguishers or spare track brackets. However, neither of the pictured tanks have the standard design 3-link glacis spare track brackets and I can't see any fire extinguishers by the rear lif
  11. The Tank Museum Shop has the Asuka M4A2 Sherman III "mid production", which could be from pretty much any of the A2 factories except Fisher Body who uniquely used welded drivers' hoods. I would say that they are trustworthy, and worthy of your support as they have been closed for months and reliant on shop sales. Asuka kits remain stubbornly expensive, however. £45-65 depending on the boxing and the kit. The "value" kits don't have the photo etch but I don't know what else might be different. The plastic will be the same and all Asuka kits have vinyl tracks anyway. https://tan
  12. As everyone has noted, this is a question with no precisely definitive answer as the records and evidence are all lost or in a form that doesn't help. It comes up regularly, however, and people often find it hard to understand the lack of knowledge compared to current times. Paint codification did not begin in any meaningful way until the 1930's with the early BS and RAL systems. All WW1-era British colours are contained in the Handbook for Artificers, 1912 and 1915 editions. However they are dry-mix pigment recipes in linseed oil and therefore tell you nothing about the resulti
  13. I have etched sets for most if not all of the kits in my stash. But for those I have built and those I am building I find that I use very little of them. Some kits now come with small etched frets for more obvious pieces like mesh anyway. Often I will look at the moulded detail and the brass parts and realise that by the time I have cleaned off the plastic detail, assembled the (often minute) brass parts and put them together it will look no better than what was there in the first place. Etched brass hinges with separate bolt or rivet heads would be an example here.
  14. The Warpaint series of 4 books cover pretty much everything you need to know. They have been out of print and commanding stupid 2nd hand prices but are being reprinted at sensible prices. Vols 1 and 2 are available, from the Tank Museum shop if nowhere else. The latest editions are Museum branded. Vols 3 and 4 have been delayed by the current situation. As with many things, finding a photo to copy from a book or web source is always your best bet. While there were many "standard" positions for markings, certain vehicles did not lend themselves to standard positioning and some
  15. In fact thinking about it there is no evidence of anything electrical inside the MkIV or MkV. No dynamo, no wiring, no batteries - but there must have been a magneto for the spark plugs. Fuel was fed by auto-vac, not pumped. Controls for vehicle and weapons are all mechanical. Engine start was by hand crank.
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