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rmcclure

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Everything posted by rmcclure

  1. rmcclure
    I always put masking tape about 1mm either side of critical joins like that where I don't want to lose detail. You can use the thinned filler as per Darby's advice and then also run a cotton bud soaked in acetone gently along the filled joint as well, in order to smooth it out as much as possible to reduce any sanding required. I remove the tape soon afterwards as well as I don't want any chipping that might be caused by removal when the filler is dry. Hope that helps - it usually works for me. Cheers, Roger
  2. rmcclure
    A beautiful, nostalgic feel to these lovely pieces. They all look like they should be in some sort of "Boys' Book of Aeroplanes." Truly superb work and thanks so much for sharing. Cheers, Roger
  3. rmcclure
    Some really super shots there and a great record of the assignment. Cheers, Roger
  4. rmcclure
    Lovely job indeed.
  5. rmcclure
    Depends on your tip size as well, if you get my drift! My old 0.5mm AB shot Tamiya metallic very well but I've found the pigment just a little too big for best performance with a newer 0.3mm AB. I switched to Vallejo Modelair Metallics and have been getting great results. Very varied range of colours too. Cheers, Roger
  6. rmcclure
    I can live with Roden plastic but the great thing about this boxing is that it won't be Roden decals. Hurrah!
  7. rmcclure
    Super work.
  8. rmcclure
    I remember reading about this as a kid and being fascinated by it. I don't think I'd like to be the one-man crew though! Lovely model and I think you've just added to my stash! Cheers, Roger
  9. rmcclure
    Thanks for the comments guys - very kind. Cheers, Roger
  10. rmcclure
    Hi All, Just thought I'd post a few pictures from last night's thoroughly excellent night shoot at Shuttleworth. Well organised, friendly and helpful - I can't recommend this event highly enough and I'll certainly be going when they run it again. As well as having a selection parked outside and four aircraft run up, there was free access to the museum hangars and kit like the Blackburn monoplane, Avro Tutor and several others were posed for us all to photograph. Want different lighting or a change of angle? Just ask the lovely people there and they moved things around! I've got a fair few files to process yet but here are a few - the Blackburn monoplane, a slightly out of time mix of Mew Gull and MG TA, and my absolute highlight of the night - the DH Comet being run up. I hope you enjoy the shots. Cheers all, Roger
  11. rmcclure
    Hi Pete, Yes the PE rigging needs a very deft touch as it's very easy to get a kink in it when it's being applied and it won't go back 100% straight so you have some nervous moments ahead of you! Once it's in it really does look the part though. It's probably a function of the lighting but the tailplane surfaces on mine are painted white - only the fuselage and lower wing are aluminium. IIRC I wasn't totally happy with the fit of the canopy and that's why I have it posed open. Enjoy yourself with this kit - it really is a gem that rewards careful work. I thought it was a bit like an Eduard kit in that respect - fine detail and most things fit well with good tolerances but everything needs to be dryfitted to make sure of the final effect. Cheers, Roger
  12. rmcclure
    Bravo! That's really excellent. If you pencilled in a fine moustache I swear that driver would pass pretty well for Graham Hill! Cheers, Roger
  13. rmcclure
    Hi Pete, I built the F3F-1 and used shades from the Vallejo Metallic Model Air range. I can't for the life of me remember which ones and I think it's really a case of using the colours you like best and are most comfortable working with. You might want to experiment with a satin finish on the fuselage but certainly no matt anywhere. I gave the wings an extra coat or two of Klear to make them more shiny than the fuselage. Remember that these aircraft were maintained to a very high standard so there's no weathering to be done other than maybe a dab of wash to some areas like the undercarriage to make the detail pop a little. This is how mine came out. I seem to remember that with careful Googling I found a site with some extra hints and tips that AM put together for this kit. It's well worth searching out as although most of the model builds pretty easily, the undercarriage is a proper sod! Cheers, Roger
  14. rmcclure
    Thanks guys, I think the way forward is to experiment on the night and see what works best. As long as I get the shutter speed right then a combination of shooting in RAW and processing with CS6 should mean that I'll get some decent results. I'll post anything that isn't too horrible! Cheers all, Roger
  15. rmcclure
    Hi All, I've got a ticket to Shuttleworth's night photography event tomorrow night and wondered if any of you out there had done anything like this before and have any advice as to the event itself or just general help around photographing aircraft at night. There will be two sessions where aircraft will be outside and firing up and I think there will be a degree of floodlighting, although I'm not too sure and I can't get much detail from the venue ahead of time. Photography is far from new for me but this type of work is. Tripod is a given, slow shutter speeds for spinning props and the like is understood but if any of you have experience of this type of shoot I'd really appreciate a few pointers. Cheers all, Roger
  16. rmcclure
    That's an utterly beautiful piece of work! Just love looking at it. Cheers, Roger
  17. rmcclure
    I've had one of these for a few years and have been very happy with it - good light, I use the magnifier quite a lot and it's easy to position wherever I need it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Maplin-A29FF-22W-Fluorescent-Daylight-Magnifier-Lamp-Shadow-Free-Light-/361393882246?hash=item5424c10486 Cheers, ​ Roger​ ​
  18. rmcclure
    That's a great job and you've definitely got the ride height looking correct. Still not enough to convince me that the rubber bumpered car had any redeeming qualities! Cheers, Roger
  19. rmcclure
    Hi Jonathan, Advice from pro - who could ask for more! That's great help so thanks very much and you've backed up what I was thinking so I'll go ahead with a pair of the lights I found. I'm not too worried about the robustness of these things as they won't get anywhere near the amount of use that you would put them to and as there aren't any moving parts, or fragile bulbs to screw into fragile holders, then they should be fine. I've since found them even cheaper on eBay as well. Cheers, Roger
  20. rmcclure
    Utterly fantastic!
  21. rmcclure
    Good Lord! If you don't run marathons then you should - you have the right mental capacity for endurance activities! Really stellar results so far. Cheers, Roger
  22. rmcclure
    Delightful little things and so interesting to see something this unusual. Cheers, Roger
  23. rmcclure
    That's excellent - what a really good idea. Great work on the base as well - how did you achieve that? Cheers, Roger
  24. rmcclure
    Thanks Duncan, That's very similar to my current lighting set up and if I had the space to leave it in place I wouldn't think about replacement but I've found that multiple putting up and taking down is starting to take its toll on some of the weaker areas. Hence the reason for considering LED panels that are simpler and more robust. Like a pair of these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-LED308C-Dimmable-Channel-Wireless/dp/B00S0V9NKO/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1439198916&sr=8-9&keywords=led+studio+lighting%C2%A0 Cheers, Roger
  25. rmcclure
    Great job - it's such an absorbing form of the hobby isn't it? I thoroughly recommend the Amati Bluenose. I built it a few years ago and had one of the best model making experiences ever. Cheers, Roger
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