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Jetblast

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Everything posted by Jetblast

  1. I don't have a clue what paint system / supplier Halfords use, but it used to be the case that most systems had RAL, Pantone & some other more obscure colour mixes available in their database. You could ask them what colour mixes they have available on their database other than automotive specific - if they don't know or can't help, it may be worth trying an independent paint supplier or motor factor who can "aerosolize". I would have thought that an Airbus colour would be specified in RAL, Pantone or something similar.
  2. The cheapest option would be to replace the gauge on your existing regulator with a digital one, unfortunately the affordable models generally seem to be sealed & the batteries aren't replaceable, so after a year or so they are fit for the bin.... The combined digital regulators on the market are generally for use with a spray guns, being fitted in line at the spray gun itself. These are a bit on the clumsy side for airbrushing, so can be fitted at the opposite end of the line at your compressor, but these are almost exclusively supplied without any form of moisture trap as this is usually dealt with at the compressor or in the plumbing on full scale automotive / industrial systems.
  3. The regulator fitted on the 610 & 620 is the same part, so both compressor have 2 x 1/8" BSP outlets.
  4. The TC-620X is pretty capable & more than a match for the Neo - the neo is pretty conservative with it's air requirements & wouldn't "push" the TC-620X in the slightest. Both the TC-610H & AC-501X are also suited to the Neo although the AC-501X doesn't have the luxury of an air tank.
  5. I would love to say I'll drop one in when I'm passing, but no such luck (one day maybe).... The best suggestion I can make is to try http://artrepublicmelbourne.com.au/ who appear to be your only "local" dealer, the part number for the cover is 127990 - good luck!
  6. Harder & Steenbeck do a "Reinigungskappe", which is a "Plastic cap for cleaning or mixing by bubble", it's a plastic cap to allow backflushing with their Fineline needle caps - just hold it over the end & backflush away. It's fit's most Iwata's - if you can let me know which model you have I can easily enough see if it works with it.
  7. I wonder which will happen first - operational carrier of flying new build Tu-160.......
  8. A couple of DHFS / SARTU Griffin's flew West along the Great Glen this morning & headed back East a few minutes ago, possibly out of Lossiemouth. Quite a way from home - maybe doing a bit of fishing in Mallaig... Edit:- Now back & circling a gloomy looking Ben Nevis.
  9. Duncan, The gauge is standard Sparmax style - 33mmØ, with increment's at 4psi & numerical markings every 20psi (picture below). The hoses are 6.5mmØ but relatively flexible - less "draggy" than a recoil hose, slightly heavier than a plastic hose. Martin.
  10. After investing far too much time into AMT's XB-70 (fill, sand, repeat...) & getting near the final stages I removed the canopy masking to discover that only 5 of the 7 windows had been masked. If I had used only acrylics I would have attempted to correct it, but imagine that the solvent primer most likely made it pointless, so I'm the proud owner of a XB-70 with missing windows.... 2nd one was Trumpeters big & complicated 1/72 Tu-160, I had decided to go to town on the detailing to try & do some justice to the kit so tried quite a few new (for me anyway) methods on the way, the cockpit, wells & bays took up more time that I had previously invested into any whole kit...... Anyway, the wings were the first thing to be wrapped up, completely built (60'ish parts a side), glossed, decaled & ready for a final satin-ish finish. I had previously only used Future & flat base for clear work, but decided to use an "archive" product with apparent UV protection to help prevent yellowing down the line - in a moment of complete madness I clear coated both wing tops with said product without any prior testing, it went on well but did dry well (at all). I had to restrain myself for taking a mash hammer to it, boxed the whole lot up & it's been languishing in my loft for the best part of 3 years now. Who knows, maybe I'll get it finished before Tupolev get the next batch through the production line
  11. You could try a bit of wire? if you try to clean the air path from the other side via the nozzle sealing face in the front of the body, don't get carried away & stuff a close fitting wire cored brush down there. If the brush is too wide it will be a s*** to remove & it's possible that it will burr the angled edge of the hole which forms part of the nozzle sealing face. If the edge does get burred it will tear at the PTFE seal on the nozzle & result in air leakage into the paint cup. It can be a costly repair as smoothing the burr down often wont work satisfactorily & the only way around it is a new body (££).....
  12. Just a thought - if you have multiple nozzle sizes & parts have become mixed up the last time it was put together, you may have a smaller air cap than nozzle which would restrict airflow.
  13. If you have decent reference pics & there is enough detail on the model, you can pic a bunch of reference points along the demarcation & mark these on the model to align your tape against. Thin tape (or sliced down regular tape) will obviously work better, automotive fineline tape being a good bet as well. If the curve is too tight for whichever tape you use & it wrinkles on the outside edge, just nick the tape at regular intervals (90° to the demarcation) to help it settle down, PVC fineline tape can also be "stretched" on the outside edge to prevent wrinkling / lifting on the inner edge (does that even make any sense?). Dependant on the scale & curvature involved you could also make a mask from regular broad masking tape (or even overlapped narrower tape) - lay it down on the fuselage, mark reference points on it as above, remove it (carefully, you don't want to stretch it) & lay it onto a hard surface like a sheet of glass or a plate, use your marked reference points to draw a smooth line & then cut along it - voila. If you have trouble initially removing the tape with the second method, you can also use greaseproof / silicone / tracing paper to pic up the reference points & then lay it out over masking tape / sheet to cut. I'm sure that the commercial boys will have some other tricks up there sleeves as well.
  14. Draining from the valve at the bottom of the tank. When you're finished for the session/night, empty the compressor of air & moisture via the tank drain valve until it's completely empty (the last remnants of moisture often won't come out until the air pressure has reduced considerably).
  15. 1) Make sure everything is tightened up, the ring on the pressure release valve can vibrate & cause quite a bit of noise. 2) Do you drain the tank regularly? If you don't water can accumulate in the tank & reduce the available volume for air storage. How long it runs for between charges is very dependant on nozzle size.
  16. Jetblast

    Is it just me ?

    I bought them once for some specific colours & can't say I had much fun with them. I found it pretty difficult to get to any sort of sweet spot with them (thinner wise) & even then found it hard to get consistent & repeatable results with them, that was across four different colours in multiple tins so I assumed that it was a general thing as opposed to a batch thing - haven't tried them since... Edit - suggestions - none really, I tired umpteen ratios, thinners & additive's & didn't really find anything that was acceptable.
  17. I think it's Akan that you are looking for.
  18. The cut-out's allow air to escape more easily in comparison to a standard closed cap when working very close to the subject. They can help provide a smoother, less disturbed airflow, help prevent paint build up on the tip of the needle / nozzle & make the tip easier to see (can give you some warning of an accumulating paint "drip" on the tip before it spatters over your work).
  19. If the nozzle isn't fully screwed / seated & protrudes further than it should, it will narrow the air gap between itself & the nozzle cap, the flange at the base of the nozzle should just be in contact with the nozzle post if it's fitted correctly (don't over tighten it though or you may damage / tear the o-ring). I'm assuming that is a Neo CN? has it ever sprayed properly or have any parts recently been changed / renewed? If there is some sort of parts mix up the nozzles (current parts anyway) can be identified by the colour of their o-ring, 0.35 being orange/red & 0.5 being black, unfortunately there are no distinguishing marking between the nozzle caps though.
  20. Have you replaced the nozzle or nozzle cap at any time? I've seen a few people that have had the BCN's 0.5mm nozzle inadvertently fitted with the CN's 0.35mm nozzle cap - it all fit's together fine, but airflow is somewhat restricted.
  21. Reduce your pressure & decrease the distance - the excess pressure & distance are causing the paint to dry between the airbrush & the model, giving the roughcast effect. Some of the lumps also look pretty big, if you are still having issues after reducing pressure & distance, possibly try using more thinners & mixing thoroughly.
  22. Spray performance is in line with the Evolution / Infinity models, but the Grafo differs in the trigger department. It's trigger only moves back / forth controlling air initially & then paint in "continuous double action", in much the same way that a pistol trigger airbrush operates (paint flow is still fully controllable as with a regular double action).
  23. Tamiya clear (colour) & Future thinned with a little X-20A through an airbrush should do the job fine. I was looking for something to get the bronze colour of the TSR-2's canopy done, Tamiya clear orange was the closest thing I had, but not very close, so I added a little bit of regular Tamiya brown acrylic to the above & was relatively happy with the results. Granted it did take a fair while messing about with the ratios & testing on a sheet of clear acetate. The colour may not be spot on, but the finish is clear, smooth & consistent, the transparency can also be altered easily by adjusting the amount of Future; Those ill fitting canopy hinges really don't look so good...........
  24. A bit civilian, but 3 Robbie's flying in formation presumably touring about the place (one each yellow, white & black/dark).
  25. Simair is a house brand of the art & crafts wholesaler West Design, don't know if it always was but it certainly is at the moment. The portfolio is/was predominantly H&S & Sparmax products, most with a slight twist to differentiate them (XL2000 = Evolution Silverline M, Focus = Evolution, SP35 = Sparmax SP35.......). The Simair silent compressor is most likely a Sil-Air unit.
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